Hi,

I found a thermal fuse , but have no idea what rating it is.
The only number stamped on it is:


8a82206862



and is made by a company named otter in the U.K a search on googles
and search engine yield no results.


No other numbers or part number could be found.

The thermal fuse was connected to the positive cable that feeds power
to two 12volts 230 watts motors.

The only other fuse in the circuitry is located close to the battery.
40amp fuse.

Any ideas what rating the thermal fuse is?



thanks!

rutman wrote:
The thermal fuse was connected to the positive cable that feeds power
to two 12volts 230 watts motors.
Any ideas what rating the thermal fuse is?

Assuming both motros can run at the same time.....(230/12x2) would be
the minimum. Are you sure the 40A fuse is the primary fuse for this
load?

boy you have a good question, i cant answer that.


The circuitry has two fuses

the one closed to the battery , is a 40amp fuse, and theres one
closer to the motors which is the thermal fuse in question. I am
guessing the 40amp fuse is the primary fuse for the load???




On Sun, 01 May 2005 19:11:51 GMT, "Travis Jordan"
wrote:

rutman wrote:
The thermal fuse was connected to the positive cable that feeds power
to two 12volts 230 watts motors.
Any ideas what rating the thermal fuse is?

Assuming both motros can run at the same time.....(230/12x2) would be
the minimum. Are you sure the 40A fuse is the primary fuse for this
load?

rutman wrote:
the one closed to the battery , is a 40amp fuse, and theres one
closer to the motors which is the thermal fuse in question. I am
guessing the 40amp fuse is the primary fuse for the load???

Most likely...however, I just can't explain why it would only be 40amp,
which is close to the total load of the two motors.

Perhaps if you describe the application a little more......

Travis Jordan wrote:
Perhaps if you describe the application a little more......

BTW, does this help?
http://www.ottercontrols.com/product..._protector.php

hi

thanks for the reply.

it provides power to this motors:

http://www.kidswheels.com/index.cfm?catid=145




they are from a peg perego 12volts ride on jeep



On Sun, 01 May 2005 20:40:42 GMT, "Travis Jordan"
wrote:

rutman wrote:
the one closed to the battery , is a 40amp fuse, and theres one
closer to the motors which is the thermal fuse in question. I am
guessing the 40amp fuse is the primary fuse for the load???

Most likely...however, I just can't explain why it would only be 40amp,
which is close to the total load of the two motors.

Perhaps if you describe the application a little more......

rutman wrote:
hi

thanks for the reply.

it provides power to this motors:

http://www.kidswheels.com/index.cfm?catid=145


Hi...

Excuse me butting in, but....

Every thermal fuse I've ever seen has been either firmly
attached to the heat generating element (coffee makers, etc)
or in the air flow of and surrounded by a heating element(hair
dryers, heat guns, etc)

Wonder if it's not a thermal fuse at all, but rather maybe
a brake resistor? A self resetting stall cutout?

Just thinking....

Ken

Travis Jordan wrote:
Travis Jordan wrote:
Perhaps if you describe the application a little more......

BTW, does this help?
http://www.ottercontrols.com/product..._protector.php

If the motor protector is color coded, you may be able to figure out
it's rating from the Otter data book....is the the right series?
http://www.davidonindustries.com/stu...20databook.pdf

Ken Weitzel wrote:
Wonder if it's not a thermal fuse at all, but rather maybe
a brake resistor? A self resetting stall cutout?

The latter.

Ken Weitzel wrote:
Every thermal fuse I've ever seen has been either firmly
attached to the heat generating element (coffee makers, etc)
or in the air flow of and surrounded by a heating element(hair
dryers, heat guns, etc)

Or somewhere else where the ambient temperature exceeding the design
point indicates a BIG problem.....like in the case of an attic fan.

Darn, the outside casing is black.. but thats about it i guess i
need to open it and see on the inside to look for terminal colours
etc!

thanks for the great info!


I am thinking that if the thermal fuse is rated for 20 amps, and if I
decide to throw in a 30amp thermal fuse, I should then upgrade all the
wiring right?

Reading on googles, and the such it says that the higher the amparage
the bigger the wire gauge ( or at least thats what it should be )


you may be asking why change from 20amp thermal fuse ( if that what it
is ) to a higher amparage.

well, when the jeep is under load the thermal fuse kicks in to save
the wiring I guess. Upon inspection of all the wiring they look
clean, fresh and warn not overly hot.


I am wondering if its current thermal fuse is too conservative?

finally I have one more question!


The fuse that came with the circuitry is rated at 40amp. If the
thermal fuse is lower than 40amp, why would that be the case? Wouldnt
it make sense to have a 40amp fuse tp the battery and another 40amp
thermal fuse by the motors..

to me it sounds like an overkill to have two fuses in the same
circuitry either with the same amp rating or different ratings.



P.S one again many thanks to everyone for responding to my inquires!



On Sun, 01 May 2005 21:13:13 GMT, "Travis Jordan"
wrote:

Travis Jordan wrote:
Travis Jordan wrote:
Perhaps if you describe the application a little more......

BTW, does this help?
http://www.ottercontrols.com/product..._protector.php

If the motor protector is color coded, you may be able to figure out
it's rating from the Otter data book....is the the right series?
http://www.davidonindustries.com/stu...20databook.pdf

rutman wrote:
The fuse that came with the circuitry is rated at 40amp. If the
thermal fuse is lower than 40amp, why would that be the case? Wouldnt
it make sense to have a 40amp fuse tp the battery and another 40amp
thermal fuse by the motors..

It's really not a thermal fuse.... it is a stall (overload) protector.

Ross Herbert wrote:
Maybe the best way to find out the info about the motor protectors
used in the toy is to contact PEG PEREGO and ask them.

Have you ever tried calling a manufacturer of a kid's toy (or for that
matter, a car manufacturer) and asking a technical / design question
about their electronics?

IMHO it is not worth the time you would spend in the phone call.
Reverse engineering is more productive.

Ross Herbert wrote:
Ever heard of email? If you outline the problem you are experiencing,
and hint that you might spread the news about their product
reliability to prospective purchasers (tactfully), you might just get
a sensible answer. You haven't anything to lose by trying. It has
worked for me in the past.

You have had better luck than I.

At the moment I have three more-than-one-week old "customer support"
requests out to computer hardware manufacturers.

1) ATI
2) Gigabyte
3) nVidia

Two of these manufacturers use automated robotic mail processors - their
responses are more amusing than a sitcom. In one of my inquiries above
I reported the inability to use the system's built-in "Help" function (a
bug), and asked where I might find a full set of online help files. The
robot replied that I should use the built-in "Help" function....yeah,
right.