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fred
 
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Default Iron Waste Pipe

In article ,
writes
Don't want to be a pain but I looked on the site you suggested at
http://www.bes.ltd.uk but can't find the tool. I searched for 'hole,'
'saw' and various combinations of other words without success :-(


No problem, I omitted to mention in my first post that although BES are a
lovely bunch of people, the web site is completely wank :-!. This is
definitely one where you go there then request a paper catalogue.

Also, web orders are not handled automatically, they are printed out then
actioned manually gasp. I recommend telephoning, as I said they are a
nice bunch, not infallible, but quick to fix any probs.

Ok, to your problem, go to the main site, then go to 'On-Line Catalogue'
(mid right), then go to 'Manual Entry' from near the bottom of the left hand
menu. Enter the code there and a description & current price (+vat) will
appear, currently 6.11

Hope that helps, but def go for the paper catalogue.

Regards,
--
fred
  #4   Report Post  
Flat Eric
 
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Default Iron Waste Pipe

I have a similar problem, although I have to couple a copper pipe from
a Saniflow to the cast iron pipe and cannot get a strap around the
pipe...

So, does anyone know how you would go about coupling a 22mm (or
possibly
32mm if my route is 12m - touch and go) copper waste pipe from a
Saniflow to an old cast iron soil stack. As it stands I would have to
drill a suitable hole in the stack, then couple it some how. This is
the bit I'm unsure about.

The only complication is that I only have access to one 'side' of the
stack. There has been an extension on the house and the soil pipe now
runs down partially behind the wall of the extension:

house
_____________
house wall ______|O ---soil stack (I can get to this side of it)
-
|
extension |
|
|

My rudimentary diagram does not show that the 3 walls that surround
the stack are very tight against it and all cemmented up to the pipe,
so I don't think I could get any strap type fitting round the pipe.

Really appreciate any advise on this. Thanks in advance.
  #5   Report Post  
Flat Eric
 
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Default Iron Waste Pipe

-


  #6   Report Post  
fred
 
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Default Iron Waste Pipe

In article , Flat Eric
writes
I have a similar problem, although I have to couple a copper pipe from
a Saniflow to the cast iron pipe and cannot get a strap around the
pipe...

So, does anyone know how you would go about coupling a 22mm (or
possibly
32mm if my route is 12m - touch and go) copper waste pipe from a
Saniflow to an old cast iron soil stack. As it stands I would have to
drill a suitable hole in the stack, then couple it some how. This is
the bit I'm unsure about.

The only complication is that I only have access to one 'side' of the
stack. There has been an extension on the house and the soil pipe now
runs down partially behind the wall of the extension:

house
_____________
house wall ______|O ---soil stack (I can get to this side of it)
-
|
extension |
|
|

My rudimentary diagram does not show that the 3 walls that surround
the stack are very tight against it and all cemmented up to the pipe,
so I don't think I could get any strap type fitting round the pipe.

Really appreciate any advise on this. Thanks in advance.

Yes, I did see your earlier post, but I'm afraid I didn't have much in
the way of positive comment and so left you to it.

I think the only way to make a reliable connection is to use a boss. If
that is the case, then you need to make room to fit one, even if that
means hiring an SDS blaster to make room to fit one. You can make good
the render/brickwork after the even.

Two other points, you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe
just before joining the stack so maybe that means working from inside
the house & removing bricks until you can make a straight connection to
the stack. Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as
a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in
waste pipe of the appropriate size and if you need to make a copper to
waste pipe joint, do it near the start & away from the already difficult
brickwork & boss muddle.

Hope that helps, but there may be better solutions, if I was to see the
problem & perhaps take a step back I might end up with a different slant
and a better one.

Regards,
--
fred
  #7   Report Post  
Flat Eric
 
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Default Iron Waste Pipe

Thanks very much for all your comments Fred, they were useful. I have
a few more questions in response

I think the only way to make a reliable connection is to use a boss. If
that is the case, then you need to make room to fit one, even if that
means hiring an SDS blaster to make room to fit one. You can make good
the render/brickwork after the even.


OK I'll have to have a good look to see whether this is feasible in
the space I have to work with - it's very tight.

you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe
just before joining the stack


Why is that? I understand that bends in general should be swept bends
and not right angle, but what's the significance of proximity to the
stack exactly?

so maybe that means working from inside
the house & removing bricks until you can make a straight connection to
the stack.


This could be interesting - I have a fitted kitchen on the other side
of the wall! The soil stack may just coincide with the Dishwasher bay
though.

Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as
a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in
waste pipe of the appropriate size and


I understand that using 22mm copper is the best way of plumbing
Saniflow waste (as it is more robust than solvent-weld plastic). I
don't think it's that uncommon, therefore I assumed that someone may
have come across the same problem
- joining 22mm copper to cast iron stack

to make a copper to (40mm plastic) waste pipe joint


Are there fittings to join 22mm copper to say 40mm plastic waste?
  #8   Report Post  
fred
 
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Default Iron Waste Pipe

In article , Flat
Eric writes
Thanks very much for all your comments Fred, they were useful. I have
a few more questions in response

You're welcome, but I am winging it here, I have no experience of saniflo at
all, hence my initial reluctance to respond.

I think the only way to make a reliable connection is to use a boss. If
that is the case, then you need to make room to fit one, even if that
means hiring an SDS blaster to make room to fit one. You can make good
the render/brickwork after the even.

OK I'll have to have a good look to see whether this is feasible in
the space I have to work with - it's very tight.

you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe
just before joining the stack

Why is that? I understand that bends in general should be swept bends
and not right angle, but what's the significance of proximity to the
stack exactly?

My thoughts were that if it is going to block then it will do so at the 90deg
bend and had also assumed that you would be taking it straight through
the wall just before you bent it into the stack. That would make for a join
near impossible to dismantle and assess for blockage. Best to make
potential problem areas accessible for service.

so maybe that means working from inside
the house & removing bricks until you can make a straight connection to
the stack.

This could be interesting - I have a fitted kitchen on the other side
of the wall! The soil stack may just coincide with the Dishwasher bay
though.

On reflection, this is probably a bit daft as it would blow any chance of
serviceability.

Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as
a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in
waste pipe of the appropriate size and

I understand that using 22mm copper is the best way of plumbing
Saniflow waste (as it is more robust than solvent-weld plastic). I
don't think it's that uncommon, therefore I assumed that someone may
have come across the same problem
- joining 22mm copper to cast iron stack

Again not my area, but 22mm does seem very small, is this just a shower
type or a toilet? Also, I would have thought that plastic would have a
smoother interface at the joints, less risk of burrs/blockage aaaaand
serviceability again, a few non solvent joints in the plastic would let you
dismantle if required.

to make a copper to (40mm plastic) waste pipe joint

Are there fittings to join 22mm copper to say 40mm plastic waste?

You can get rubber reducers from 40mm to 21.5mm plastic (20mm
overflow pipe) that may suit, but I certainly wouldn't trust such a joint to
any kind of pressure. Perhaps if it was the joint at the stack then it would
be ok, so that would be boss, solvent adaptor to 40mm then 40/21.5
rubber reducer but def don't make it concealed anywhere

Again, hope that helps . . . . some
--
fred
  #9   Report Post  
Flat Eric
 
Posts: n/a
Default Iron Waste Pipe

fred wrote in message ...
In article , Flat
Eric writes
Thanks very much for all your comments Fred, they were useful. I have
a few more questions in response

You're welcome, but I am winging it here, I have no experience of saniflo at
all, hence my initial reluctance to respond.


A sounding board for ideas is a good thing atleast. May be prompt
someone else to post to the thread, so we all pool knowledge/common
sense - what this is all about eh?

you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe
just before joining the stack

Why is that? I understand that bends in general should be swept bends
and not right angle, but what's the significance of proximity to the
stack exactly?

My thoughts were that if it is going to block then it will do so at the 90deg
bend and had also assumed that you would be taking it straight through
the wall just before you bent it into the stack. That would make for a join
near impossible to dismantle and assess for blockage. Best to make
potential problem areas accessible for service.


Fair enough. May be fitting an equal tee with an acces plug for
rodding between boss onto soil pipe and swept bend through wall would
be advisable. Avoiding 90 deg bends and allowing access

Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as
a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in
waste pipe of the appropriate size and

I understand that using 22mm copper is the best way of plumbing
Saniflow waste (as it is more robust than solvent-weld plastic). I
don't think it's that uncommon, therefore I assumed that someone may
have come across the same problem
- joining 22mm copper to cast iron stack

Again not my area, but 22mm does seem very small,


I have to agree on this, but think this reason is one of robustness.
Need to do some more probing here eg talking to my local Saniflow
stockist etc. It is for a toilet pump.

Since using copper for Saniflow waste does appear to be recommended
[from Saniflow website "All pipework should be either copper or CPVC
conforming to BS7291. Do not use flexible or push-fit pipework. " ],
there must be a recomended methdo of connection to the stack...?
Anyone???

Also, I would have thought that plastic would have a
smoother interface at the joints, less risk of burrs/blockage


d'you reckon? IMHO, not sure there'd be much in it myself...

aaaaand serviceability again, a few non solvent joints in the plastic would
let you dismantle if required.


Personally dont like the idea of having any push-fit joins for a
Saniflow - certainly not inside the house anyway. May be a good
argument for solvent plastic is than you *can* fit occasional equal
tee and access plugs along the route to allow for rodding as I have
commented above. I suppose you could do the same with a compression
fitting/speedfit stop end on copper

to make a copper to (40mm plastic) waste pipe joint

Are there fittings to join 22mm copper to say 40mm plastic waste?

You can get rubber reducers from 40mm to 21.5mm plastic (20mm
overflow pipe) that may suit, but I certainly wouldn't trust such a joint to
any kind of pressure.


Quite! 10 bar I think the motor runs at!

Perhaps if it was the joint at the stack then it would
be ok, so that would be boss, solvent adaptor to 40mm then 40/21.5
rubber reducer but def don't make it concealed anywhere


Could insert such an adapter fitting after the swept solvent bend,
down to copper, with the copper running at 45 deg though the wall and
just emerging to make the adapter ie potentially dodgy connection
*outside*. [There must be a better way of doing this....?]

Again, hope that helps . . . . some


Yes thanks very much - has got me thinking at the very least!
  #10   Report Post  
Flat Eric
 
Posts: n/a
Default Iron Waste Pipe

I know I'm answering my own post here, but for anyone else who's
interested, I posed some remaining queries with Saniflow technical
advice. Here are the answers, with the questions below:

Thank you for your enquiry,

In answer for your questions: -

1. Either is fine
2. Yes
3. Yes, Hunter Plastics manufacture one, and there are others, please
contact your local plumbers merchants.
4. As long as you stick to the guidelines, the pipework should be fine
for a
number of years (i.e. 10-30) but it may be subject to
sediment/limescale
buildup eventually
5. You can insert a T-Piece and this will aid rodding should the need
ever
arise, unfortunately we are not aware of a particular 22mm rodding
system,
but there is an air pressure system.
6. You would require a 22 or 32mm strap-on boss (in conjunction with a
22/33mm reducer) which you can get from your local plumbers merchants.

If you have any further questions, please do not hesistate to contact
us,

Thank you,

SANIFLO TECHNICAL

-----Original Message-----
Sent: 27 August 2003 13:47
To:
Subject: Waste pipe


Could you clarify 1 or 2 things for me please:

I am planning to install a Sanitop (basement).

I can get the required fall etc. Have a 2.5m vertical lift followed
by
approx 10m run at the 1:200 fall specified to the soil pipe. The
'horizontal' run only requires 2 swept 135 deg bends to go through the
wall
and into the soil stack - which is good.

1. it isn't clear is whether the 22mm waste pipe is copper or CPVC.
2. is CPVC solvent weld?
3. I am only aware of 32mm and 40mm sizes for solvent weld - does 22mm
exist?
4. 22mm seems very narrow - is there any risk of blockage?
5. servicability: would it be a good idea to insert the occasional tee
and
end stop to gain access for rodding? Is there anything small enough
to rod
a 22mm pipe with? Would such a fitting create unneccessary
turbulence/drag
therefore increase the chance of blockages occuring in the first
place?
6. finally how would you make the connection with the soil stack? I
have an
old cast iron soil stack

Thanks very much in advance. I understand it is very important to
install
these units correctly and want to get it right 1st time.
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