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extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?



 
 
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  #21  
Old October 9th 12, 11:28 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 4,724
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

It sounds like a good idea to work with the building
onwer, and coordinate to have his plumber do it up
during one of the water outages.

With your combination of bad situation, it does sound
wise to use the inline shutoff.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"dumbstruck" wrote in message
...

I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't
shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff
can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme
inconvenience to everybody waiting. This troubled bldg has had frequent
long unplanned water cutoffs for 6, 12, or 24 hours and anyone wanting
an open end down period for amateur plumbing is asking for a lynch mob.
I had a lot of trouble getting solder to flow to the heat in a previous
house.
Better to just opportunistically slam in a screw in patch in series.


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  #22  
Old October 9th 12, 11:57 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 1,455
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

On 10/6/2012 11:51 PM, Larry Fishel wrote:
On Saturday, October 6, 2012 6:45:29 PM UTC-4, dumbstruck wrote:
Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet?


Not that this helps you any more than my last post, but I would hope (and I expect) that there's not nearly as much call for a valve like that as you seem to think. Most people, and any plumber who's not overly fond of being sued would consider intentionally leaving an old failed valve in place to be a last resort...

Personally, I would much rather cut into the wall and do it right than hope the packing in the old valve won't fail a year from now while I'm not home. ("Right" IMHO meaning to remove the old valve and extend the pipe out far enough to install a new valve outside the wall where you can replace it easily next time it fails.)


That's what I would do. Tile carefully removed can be replaced and OP
should be able to do the revealing himself before the plumber shows up
and patch after he leaves.

Replacement valve I mentioned was needed to replace a failed valve that
had a leak in it and even though it was not frozen and could be shut off
the leak was before the shut off in the valve body itself.
  #23  
Old October 10th 12, 01:26 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 270
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

On Tuesday, October 9, 2012 4:54:07 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 9, 3:44*pm, Abacab
I have observed this setup on more than one occasion. I believe it is possible to crimp the existing supply line, or use a C-clamp on the existing supply line, to stop the flow of water without shutting off the water to the building.





Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow

him to accomplish his goal?


After reading this about 4 times, I realize he means to crimp the existing, flexible supply line going from the valve to the sink, unhook the end of the hose from the sink, connect a valve t the end of the hose and another hose from the new valve to the sink. That would allow him to install a new valve without shutting off the water. This would do the trick IF it doesn't rupture the hose (which is probably old) and flood the apartment.

However, my guess is it's not necessary. I believe from the OP's description that the old valve is not seized but just doesn't shut off all the way, which means he can remove the hose with causing a serious problem.
  #24  
Old October 10th 12, 01:31 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 270
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:26:02 PM UTC-4, dumbstruck wrote:


I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't

shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff

can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme

inconvenience to everybody waiting...


But at least mentioning that you lived in a tower block would have saved everyone a lot of guessing. Now we can all just tell you it's the super's problem and you shouldn't be mucking with it.
  #25  
Old October 10th 12, 03:44 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Y'know, the C clamp is the right solution. Thing is, the OP has the
wrong
problem.


What do you expect from a Moaners Hub web reader?


You appear to be trying hard to make a smart comment and to lack rather basic social skills. Sad.
  #26  
Old October 10th 12, 03:45 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 6
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote:

Larry Fishel wrote:

After reading this about 4 times, I realize he means to crimp the
existing,=
flexible supply line going from the valve to the sink, unhook the end
of t=
he hose from the sink, connect a valve t the end of the hose and another
ho=
se from the new valve to the sink. That would allow him to install a new
va=
lve without shutting off the water.


--

Yes. While not expressed as clearly as it could have been this is what I meant. A kitchen contractor I hired did this and he said he crimped the flexible supply line/hose. I have also read of others using a C-clamp on the flexible hose; if on the hot side the water should be run to make the hose more pliable.

This would do the trick IF it doesn't r=
upture the hose (which is probably old) and flood the apartment.


There's always that risk so being able to shutoff the water in case something goes wrong would be highly advisable.

BTW a furnace contractor replaced a broken gas shutoff valve without shutting off the gas, in the same property, and for the same reasons.
  #27  
Old October 10th 12, 05:31 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 268
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

In article .com,
Abacab wrote:

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...e-for-sink-fau
cet-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Y'know, the C clamp is the right solution. Thing is, the OP has the
wrong
problem.


What do you expect from a Moaners Hub web reader?


You appear to be trying hard to make a smart comment and to lack rather basic
social skills. Sad.


You, Abacab, are posting to a USENET newsgroup (forum) that is being
pirated by the website from which you are posting. If you choose to
participate here, please do it appropriately, and NOT from any damn
website. However, don't expect to join a room overflowing with social
skills. Sanctimony and a thin skin are not prerequisites for
"membership" in alt.home.repair.
  #28  
Old October 10th 12, 06:24 AM
Senior Member
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,375
Default

Dumbstruck:

What about the laundry room(s)?

When you have to shut off the water to some of the apartments to do a repair, are the laundry rooms also affected?

Can you advise the tenants affected by the water outage that they can get hot and cold water for cooking and cleaning (and refilling their toilet tanks) from the laundry room sinks?

Last edited by nestork : October 10th 12 at 06:35 AM.
  #29  
Old October 10th 12, 06:44 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 6
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:


You, Abacab, are posting to a USENET newsgroup (forum) that is being
pirated by the website from which you are posting. If you choose to
participate here, please do it appropriately, and NOT from any damn
website. However, don't expect to join a room overflowing with social
skills. Sanctimony and a thin skin are not prerequisites for
"membership" in alt.home.repair.


--

I'm aware it's a USENET newsgroup. If I choose to post via the website that I ended up on via a Google search query then so be it. Perhaps you can ask Google why homeownershub.com featured before groups.google.com in the search results for solutions to inline shutoff valves. I'll admit the "responding to URL" at the top of a post is a bit ugly, but I fail to see why the source of a post is more important than its substance.

Mr. Stormin Mormon opted for a gratuitous ad hominem rather than a constructive comment, which is pointless, lame and sad.
  #30  
Old October 10th 12, 09:25 PM posted to alt.home.repair
SRN
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Posts: 94
Default extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?


"Abacab" wrote in
message oups.com...
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote:

Larry Fishel wrote:

After reading this about 4 times, I realize he means to crimp the
existing,=
flexible supply line going from the valve to the sink, unhook the end
of t=
he hose from the sink, connect a valve t the end of the hose and another
ho=
se from the new valve to the sink. That would allow him to install a new
va=
lve without shutting off the water.


--

Yes. While not expressed as clearly as it could have been this is what I
meant. A kitchen contractor I hired did this and he said he crimped the
flexible supply line/hose. I have also read of others using a C-clamp on
the flexible hose; if on the hot side the water should be run to make the
hose more pliable.

This would do the trick IF it doesn't r=
upture the hose (which is probably old) and flood the apartment.


There's always that risk so being able to shutoff the water in case
something goes wrong would be highly advisable.

BTW a furnace contractor replaced a broken gas shutoff valve without
shutting off the gas, in the same property, and for the same reasons.


Oh, THAT'S what you mean........OK well, go buy a 3/8" x 3/8" compression
fitting valve like I posted earlier and another 3/8" faucet supply hose. Use
vice grips with metal strips or something else to cover the serrated jaws so
the water line isn't damaged, and pinch off the line. Disconnect the supply
line from the faucet. Take the compression nuts & ferrules off the new valve
and discard. Hook the old supply line to one side of the new valve. Hook one
end of the new line to the other ned of new valve, and the other end of new
line to the faucet. Remove vice grips.....


 




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