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extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Nothing can be found locally, so i want to order online. The closest thing i can find is plastic and im not sure is compatible with male and female metal standard mating
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...h6UIOzHduubVng By the way i found it doesnt help to force a non working shutoff valve really tight, because the seals seem to crumble and jam up your faucet filter. Of course the existing shutoff is half buried in a wall and inaccesable. Thanks for pointers |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
dumbstruck wrote: Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Nothing can be found locally, so i want to order online. The closest thing i can find is plastic and im not sure is compatible with male and female metal standard mating http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...h6UIOzHduubVng By the way i found it doesnt help to force a non working shutoff valve really tight, because the seals seem to crumble and jam up your faucet filter. Of course the existing shutoff is half buried in a wall and inaccesable. Thanks for pointers Hi, Work little more and install ball valve which will out last you. That's what I did when one failed. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
"dumbstruck" wrote in message ... Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_272589-143-K...e&fac etInfo= |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Oct 6, 6:16*pm, "SRN" wrote:
"dumbstruck" wrote in message ... Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_272589-143-K...tId=3191029&Nt.... The ball valves seem to be the better choice these days. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Saturday, October 6, 2012 7:16:39 PM UTC-4, SRN wrote:
Something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_272589-143-K...e&fac etInfo= That particular one has compression fittings. I think what he wants is one with a female threaded fitting on one end and a male filling on the other so he can put it between the old valve and the line to the sink without cobbling together some set of fittings. I can't say that I've ever seen one, but I've never looked. The only time I've had to deal with a failed cutoff valve, I dug out my propane torch and learned how to solder properly (which was not nearly as hard as I'd expected), but then that valve wasn't buried in the wall under a sink, and it was leaking so I had no choice but to remove it... |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Saturday, October 6, 2012 6:45:29 PM UTC-4, dumbstruck wrote:
Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Not that this helps you any more than my last post, but I would hope (and I expect) that there's not nearly as much call for a valve like that as you seem to think. Most people, and any plumber who's not overly fond of being sued would consider intentionally leaving an old failed valve in place to be a last resort... Personally, I would much rather cut into the wall and do it right than hope the packing in the old valve won't fail a year from now while I'm not home.. ("Right" IMHO meaning to remove the old valve and extend the pipe out far enough to install a new valve outside the wall where you can replace it easily next time it fails.) |
I don't know if Lowe's sells them, but Dahl makes a "piggy back" valve to do exactly what you want:
 Dahl is a well known name and any plumbing wholesaler in your area will stock something similar or order them in for you if you pay cash. If you don't do anything to intentionally pi$$ off the guy at the counter, he'll probably give you contractor pricing on them too. But, if what you have in your wall looks similar to the example on the left, then I'd just buy another Brasscraft compression stop and replace the cartridge in your old valve with the cartridge from the new valve, thereby fixing the old valve. If that doesn't work, then the seat in the old valve is damaged, and installing a Dahl piggy back valve (or competitor's equivalent) is definitely the way to go. PS: New homeowners often don't know this, but on every quarter turn ball valve (like the Dahl piggy back valves shown above) the ball valve is open when the handle is parallel to the direction of flow, and closed when the handle is perpendicular to the direction of flow. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
dumbstruck wrote:
Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Probably because not too many people would consider putting 2 shutoffs in series. I certainly wouldn't consider it the "most logically needed valve in the world". Nothing can be found locally, so i want to order online. The closest thing i can find is plastic and im not sure is compatible with male and female metal standard mating I'm curious what stores you've tried. 'Twere it me, I'd try a contractor's plumbing supply house. If they didn't stock one, they would know where to order it from - if they exist - so there wouldn't be any guesswork as to whether they were compatible or not. Many kitchen and bath "design centers" have plumbing counters in the back, just like many lighting stores have electrical supply counters. That's where many of the contractors do their business. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
"dumbstruck" wrote in message ... Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Nothing can be found locally, so i want to order online. The closest thing i can find is plastic and im not sure is compatible with male and female metal standard mating http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...h6UIOzHduubVng By the way i found it doesnt help to force a non working shutoff valve really tight, because the seals seem to crumble and jam up your faucet filter. Of course the existing shutoff is half buried in a wall and inaccesable. Thanks for pointers Use a 3/8" FIPT x 3/8" FIPT ball valve, into each end thread a 3/8" MIPT x 3/8" copper gland fitting and insert it into your copper line. Often one-piece fixes are hard to find, but assembling adapters will solve the problem depending on what you are trying to achieve. If you are trying to do something different than what I suggested, other types of adapters will do the job. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On 10/6/2012 7:16 PM, SRN wrote:
"dumbstruck" wrote in message ... Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_272589-143-K...e&fac etInfo= Similar to one I installed last year except it is angular. Goes from metal to plastic. Don't know why op would insist on plastic valve. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Sun, 07 Oct 2012 14:34:37 -0400, Frank
wrote: On 10/6/2012 7:16 PM, SRN wrote: "dumbstruck" wrote in message ... Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_272589-143-K...e&fac etInfo= Similar to one I installed last year except it is angular. Goes from metal to plastic. Don't know why op would insist on plastic valve. The OP is wanting to add an "extra inline" valve, in addition to his stop valve? IOW, he wants to add another potential leak in what he already has. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
In article ,
Oren wrote: The OP is wanting to add an "extra inline" valve, in addition to his stop valve? IOW, he wants to add another potential leak in what he already has. A little bit of a cob job, but I understand his reasoning. The old valve won't fully shut off, so he wants to stack a new one on there because it's easier than replacing the old one. Not sure what his setup looks like, but I don't know why he couldn't do a sex change with a close or a coupling. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Oct 7, 1:58*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 07 Oct 2012 14:34:37 -0400, Frank wrote: On 10/6/2012 7:16 PM, SRN wrote: "dumbstruck" wrote in message ... Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world.... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_272589-143-K...tId=3191029&Nt.... Similar to one I installed last year except it is angular. *Goes from metal to plastic. *Don't know why op would insist on plastic valve. The OP is wanting to add an "extra inline" valve, in addition to his stop valve? IOW, he wants to add another potential leak in what he already has.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - That what it seems like. He/she should be able to shut off the water, and unsolder or unscrew the present valve and put a new valve in its place. If it is partially buried in the wall, replacing it still seems to be a better choice than having a second failure potential as others have stated. If the valve and supply pipe both come out when he unscrews things, replace the pipe with a slightly longer one to get past the wall. Some pipe dope and a small wrench should be able to screw the new pipe into the in the wall fitting to prevent leaking inside the wall, and if he/she is really worried, they can look into the opening with a flashlight and mirror to see that it is not happening before they close up the hole in the wall with some spackling compound/mud. This is about the most basic home repair thing to do, it's not rocket science or even close to it. |
Derbydad:
Quote:
That's because on infrequently used water lines, any turbidity in the water settles out as a fine dust on the bottom of the pipe. If you open a ball valve that has dust settled to the bottom of the line, there's a good chance that dirt will get between the ball and the teflon seals and scratch those teflon seals so that the ball valve will leak after that. By opening the downstream valve until the water runs clear, you flush out all the dirt in the line, and so your confident that the ball valve can be used. That way, you keep the upstream ball valve in good condition so that you can always repair or replace the cheap downstream valve. I realize this situation is different cuz the upstream valve is the one that doesn't work, and this is a line to a bathroom sink that gets used frequently. But under the right circumstances, putting two valves in a row is a good idea. Smitty Two: Quote:
He can't use a pipe coupling because the threads on pipe fittings and compression connections are different. On compression fittings the male and female threads are straight, just like on a bolt or a screw or a light bulb or a bottle cap. The fluid-tight seal is made by the plastic or brass ferrule being compressed around the pipe as the compression fitting joint is tightened. Pipe threads are tapered, and so the thread diameter actually changes over the length of the threaded area. For all sizes of pipe, the taper for NPT threaded pipe is 1 in 16. So, if a threaded nipple has 1 inch of threaded length at each end, the diameter of of the pipe threads will increase by 1/16 of an inch from the end of the nipple to the end of the threaded area. So, in pipes and pipe fittings, the fluid-tight seal is made by compressing teflon tape and/or pipe dope between the tapered male and female threads as the joint is tightened. So, you can't use pipe fittings (that have tapered threads) on compression fittings (which have straight threads) and expect that connection not to leak. The OP would need a coupling with straight female threads on both ends, and I don't know that such a fitting exists. If he can't find a thing like that, then he'd have to use a short piece of 3/8 plastic or copper tubing between the two valves. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
Thank you to those who answered accepting the premise of my
question. I will try some cobbling in series, although it is hard to buy online because I don't know the terms for what I need. I don't have good access to local plumbing contractor places... I just found shutoff valves with threads only on the output end, but will try more. Above was cold water, but the hot comes from some larger than 3/8 size, where I had to cobble in an extra old flexible hose with different size ends. I'll guess this is 3/8 to 1/2 and try for a shorter mating. Also I have a failing shower diverter valve that a plumber refused to replace (because needing to rip tiles?) and may try replacing the plain spout with a diverter one to trap the trickle there, although may have to set the main diverter half way to pressurize the other diverter seal. On Sunday, October 7, 2012 9:15:38 AM UTC-10, hr(bob) wrote: That what it seems like. He/she should be able to shut off the water, and unsolder or unscrew the present valve and put a new valve in its I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme inconvenience to everybody waiting. This troubled bldg has had frequent long unplanned water cutoffs for 6, 12, or 24 hours and anyone wanting an open end down period for amateur plumbing is asking for a lynch mob. I had a lot of trouble getting solder to flow to the heat in a previous house. Better to just opportunistically slam in a screw in patch in series. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
"dumbstruck" wrote in message ... OK, let's try this again.......You have a shut-off valve that's too close to the wall to easily change out. The valve is bad so you want to add another valve in-series downstream of the bad valve so you can shut off the water when needed. Question: what is currently/was attached to the output side of this bad valve? Is it 3/8" OD copper or a 3/8" hose going to the faucet??? If so, it might be very easy to add another valve in-series but you need to be descriptive since you're not posting pictures.... |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:26:02 PM UTC-4, dumbstruck wrote:
I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme inconvenience to everybody waiting. This troubled bldg has had frequent long unplanned water cutoffs for 6, 12, or 24 hours and anyone wanting an open end down period for amateur plumbing is asking for a lynch mob. I had a lot of trouble getting solder to flow to the heat in a previous house. Better to just opportunistically slam in a screw in patch in series. If this is a rental unit why is an amateur plumber trying to make repairs? I understand that not all landlords and building maintenance people are terrific, but your hands are tied. When the original valve fails and floods all the units below yours, your amateur repair on top of the valve will invalidate all claims of damage against the landlord. YOU will be 100% liable for any damage caused. Right now if you log a complaint with the landlord, it is *THEIR* responsibility to fix it, and *THEY* are liable when the valve fails and floods all the units below yours. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote: dumbstruck wrote: Thank you to those who answered accepting the premise of my question. I will try some cobbling in series, although it is hard to buy online because I don't know the terms for what I need. I don't have good access to local plumbing contractor places... I just found shutoff valves with threads only on the output end, but will try more.... -- I doubt you will find a new shutoff valve that will screw directly onto the old seized shutoff valve. This is because the outlet on a shutoff valve is designed to be connected to a pipe/tube, and not to another fitting. Having said that I believe you can achieve what you want by connecting a faucet water supply line (which may be the existing one or a new one) to the old shutoff valve outlet, and then connecting a new shutoff valve to the other end of the supply line. Obviously you will need to match the supply line outlet with the inlet of the new shutoff valve (e.g. a 1/2" MIP/FIP connection). I have observed this setup on more than one occasion. I believe it is possible to crimp the existing supply line, or use a C-clamp on the existing supply line, to stop the flow of water without shutting off the water to the building. An alternative is, if you have access to the building shutoff valve, to shut if off for a minute while you connect the new supply line/shutoff valve and turn it back on again quickly. While many buildings with common water supply have an "official" policy of 24 hour written notice, in practice many maintenance staff just turn off the water for short periods of time without notice. The problem you describe is not at all uncommon. In California, for example, there were many apartment complexes converted into condos. There are thus no individual unit water shutoff valves, or common-area maintenance staff. I am aware of one complex that was converted and where new faucets were installed in all units, along with all new appliances. However the old shutoff valves were left in place, almost all of which are seized up. Replacing a faucet or swapping out a dishwasher now "officially" requires a condo owner to give advance notice of water shutoff to up to 20 other units. In practice this is often not done. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Oct 9, 3:44*pm, Abacab
wrote: responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/extra-3-8-shut-off-valve-for... Abacab wrote: dumbstruck *wrote: Thank you to those who answered accepting the premise of my question. I will try some cobbling in series, although it is hard to buy online because I don't know the terms for what I need. I don't have good access to local plumbing contractor places... I just found shutoff valves with threads only on the output end, but will try more.... -- I doubt you will find a new shutoff valve that will screw directly onto the old seized shutoff valve. This is because the outlet on a shutoff valve is designed to be connected to a pipe/tube, and not to another fitting. Having said that I believe you can achieve what you want by connecting a faucet water supply line (which may be the existing one or a new one) to the old shutoff valve outlet, and then connecting a new shutoff valve to the other end of the supply line. Obviously you will need to match the supply line outlet with the inlet of the new shutoff valve (e.g. a 1/2" MIP/FIP connection). I have observed this setup on more than one occasion. I believe it is possible to crimp the existing supply line, or use a C-clamp on the existing supply line, to stop the flow of water without shutting off the water to the building. Would you care to explain this process to me? The OP has a shut off valve that will not shut off. This valve is half buried in a wall so he can't easily remove it. He wants to add another valve in series - outside of the wall - so that he can turn the water off to one fixture. Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow him to accomplish his goal? |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
Y'know, the C clamp is the right solution. Thing is, the OP has the wrong
problem. What do you expect from a Moaners Hub web reader? Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Oct 9, 3:44 pm, Abacab wrote: responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/extra-3-8-shut-off-valve-for... I have observed this setup on more than one occasion. I believe it is possible to crimp the existing supply line, or use a C-clamp on the existing supply line, to stop the flow of water without shutting off the water to the building. Would you care to explain this process to me? The OP has a shut off valve that will not shut off. This valve is half buried in a wall so he can't easily remove it. He wants to add another valve in series - outside of the wall - so that he can turn the water off to one fixture. Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow him to accomplish his goal? |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
It sounds like a good idea to work with the building
onwer, and coordinate to have his plumber do it up during one of the water outages. With your combination of bad situation, it does sound wise to use the inline shutoff. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "dumbstruck" wrote in message ... I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme inconvenience to everybody waiting. This troubled bldg has had frequent long unplanned water cutoffs for 6, 12, or 24 hours and anyone wanting an open end down period for amateur plumbing is asking for a lynch mob. I had a lot of trouble getting solder to flow to the heat in a previous house. Better to just opportunistically slam in a screw in patch in series. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On 10/6/2012 11:51 PM, Larry Fishel wrote:
On Saturday, October 6, 2012 6:45:29 PM UTC-4, dumbstruck wrote: Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Not that this helps you any more than my last post, but I would hope (and I expect) that there's not nearly as much call for a valve like that as you seem to think. Most people, and any plumber who's not overly fond of being sued would consider intentionally leaving an old failed valve in place to be a last resort... Personally, I would much rather cut into the wall and do it right than hope the packing in the old valve won't fail a year from now while I'm not home. ("Right" IMHO meaning to remove the old valve and extend the pipe out far enough to install a new valve outside the wall where you can replace it easily next time it fails.) That's what I would do. Tile carefully removed can be replaced and OP should be able to do the revealing himself before the plumber shows up and patch after he leaves. Replacement valve I mentioned was needed to replace a failed valve that had a leak in it and even though it was not frozen and could be shut off the leak was before the shut off in the valve body itself. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Tuesday, October 9, 2012 4:54:07 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 9, 3:44*pm, Abacab I have observed this setup on more than one occasion. I believe it is possible to crimp the existing supply line, or use a C-clamp on the existing supply line, to stop the flow of water without shutting off the water to the building. Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow him to accomplish his goal? After reading this about 4 times, I realize he means to crimp the existing, flexible supply line going from the valve to the sink, unhook the end of the hose from the sink, connect a valve t the end of the hose and another hose from the new valve to the sink. That would allow him to install a new valve without shutting off the water. This would do the trick IF it doesn't rupture the hose (which is probably old) and flood the apartment. However, my guess is it's not necessary. I believe from the OP's description that the old valve is not seized but just doesn't shut off all the way, which means he can remove the hose with causing a serious problem. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:26:02 PM UTC-4, dumbstruck wrote:
I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme inconvenience to everybody waiting... But at least mentioning that you lived in a tower block would have saved everyone a lot of guessing. Now we can all just tell you it's the super's problem and you shouldn't be mucking with it. :) |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote: Stormin Mormon wrote: Y'know, the C clamp is the right solution. Thing is, the OP has the wrong problem. What do you expect from a Moaners Hub web reader? You appear to be trying hard to make a smart comment and to lack rather basic social skills. Sad. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote: Larry Fishel wrote: After reading this about 4 times, I realize he means to crimp the existing,= flexible supply line going from the valve to the sink, unhook the end of t= he hose from the sink, connect a valve t the end of the hose and another ho= se from the new valve to the sink. That would allow him to install a new va= lve without shutting off the water. -- Yes. While not expressed as clearly as it could have been this is what I meant. A kitchen contractor I hired did this and he said he crimped the flexible supply line/hose. I have also read of others using a C-clamp on the flexible hose; if on the hot side the water should be run to make the hose more pliable. This would do the trick IF it doesn't r= upture the hose (which is probably old) and flood the apartment. There's always that risk so being able to shutoff the water in case something goes wrong would be highly advisable. BTW a furnace contractor replaced a broken gas shutoff valve without shutting off the gas, in the same property, and for the same reasons. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
In article .com,
Abacab wrote: responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...e-for-sink-fau cet-716374-.htm Abacab wrote: Stormin Mormon wrote: Y'know, the C clamp is the right solution. Thing is, the OP has the wrong problem. What do you expect from a Moaners Hub web reader? You appear to be trying hard to make a smart comment and to lack rather basic social skills. Sad. You, Abacab, are posting to a USENET newsgroup (forum) that is being pirated by the website from which you are posting. If you choose to participate here, please do it appropriately, and NOT from any damn website. However, don't expect to join a room overflowing with social skills. Sanctimony and a thin skin are not prerequisites for "membership" in alt.home.repair. |
Dumbstruck:
What about the laundry room(s)? When you have to shut off the water to some of the apartments to do a repair, are the laundry rooms also affected? Can you advise the tenants affected by the water outage that they can get hot and cold water for cooking and cleaning (and refilling their toilet tanks) from the laundry room sinks? |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm
Abacab wrote: Smitty Two wrote: You, Abacab, are posting to a USENET newsgroup (forum) that is being pirated by the website from which you are posting. If you choose to participate here, please do it appropriately, and NOT from any damn website. However, don't expect to join a room overflowing with social skills. Sanctimony and a thin skin are not prerequisites for "membership" in alt.home.repair. -- I'm aware it's a USENET newsgroup. If I choose to post via the website that I ended up on via a Google search query then so be it. Perhaps you can ask Google why homeownershub.com featured before groups.google.com in the search results for solutions to inline shutoff valves. I'll admit the "responding to URL" at the top of a post is a bit ugly, but I fail to see why the source of a post is more important than its substance. Mr. Stormin Mormon opted for a gratuitous ad hominem rather than a constructive comment, which is pointless, lame and sad. |
extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?
"Abacab" wrote in message oups.com... responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...et-716374-.htm Abacab wrote: Larry Fishel wrote: After reading this about 4 times, I realize he means to crimp the existing,= flexible supply line going from the valve to the sink, unhook the end of t= he hose from the sink, connect a valve t the end of the hose and another ho= se from the new valve to the sink. That would allow him to install a new va= lve without shutting off the water. -- Yes. While not expressed as clearly as it could have been this is what I meant. A kitchen contractor I hired did this and he said he crimped the flexible supply line/hose. I have also read of others using a C-clamp on the flexible hose; if on the hot side the water should be run to make the hose more pliable. This would do the trick IF it doesn't r= upture the hose (which is probably old) and flood the apartment. There's always that risk so being able to shutoff the water in case something goes wrong would be highly advisable. BTW a furnace contractor replaced a broken gas shutoff valve without shutting off the gas, in the same property, and for the same reasons. Oh, THAT'S what you mean........OK well, go buy a 3/8" x 3/8" compression fitting valve like I posted earlier and another 3/8" faucet supply hose. Use vice grips with metal strips or something else to cover the serrated jaws so the water line isn't damaged, and pinch off the line. Disconnect the supply line from the faucet. Take the compression nuts & ferrules off the new valve and discard. Hook the old supply line to one side of the new valve. Hook one end of the new line to the other ned of new valve, and the other end of new line to the faucet. Remove vice grips..... |
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