I'm looking for a 14" bandsaw and have read a lot of good (great even)
reviews
about both of these saws.

I have (and have read) Grizzly's spec sheets on both these saws.

However, beyond the basics/specs how do they compare.
-noise
-vibration
-ease of blade replacement
-availability/selection of new blades
-quality of fence
-ability to resaw 6-8" hw (oak & cherry)
-amount of actual dust collected

Many ThankX
Ron

Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care for it
at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic block
system - after that, I have a whole new respect.

Noise: Is pretty quiet - about the same as a friends Delta and quiter than
a friends Jet 16". Not overly fair comparison on the Jet becuase it's a
bigger saw.

Vibration: Inconsequential and have noticed none.

Ease of blade replacement: As a standard saw - you can get 93 1/2 blades
anywhere - if you put the riser on, only wood specialty stores would have
them (105") on hand or you need to order them. I got them all at once and
am getting along fine.

Availablity of new blades - I haven't had trouble finding anything I was
looking for. I use everyting from 1/8th to 3/4 in many different
variations.

Quality of fence: I don't use the fence much but when I do, I find it
adequate - nothing great.

Ability to resaw - even with the riser, I haven't had any issue but the most
I've tried a 10" of oak - I had to go a little slow but it did fine and the
motor did not bog down.

Amount of dust collected: I have the small 1hp Delta and hook it up to the
port on the saw. When done cutting - even resawing, there is nothing in the
lower cabinet. The only thing I have to clean up is what was left on the
top of the table and that is to be expected.

Hope this helps.

Don

"Ron" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for a 14" bandsaw and have read a lot of good (great even)
reviews
about both of these saws.

I have (and have read) Grizzly's spec sheets on both these saws.

However, beyond the basics/specs how do they compare.
-noise
-vibration
-ease of blade replacement
-availability/selection of new blades
-quality of fence
-ability to resaw 6-8" hw (oak & cherry)
-amount of actual dust collected

Many ThankX
Ron

I echo all that the previous poster wrote. I don't have much to
compare it too, but the 0555 seems an excellent machine for the money.
When I compare it to others on the market, it seems you are often
paying more for a machine that just doesn't seem as nice. Very quiet,
powerful (though I don't have risers on mine). Easy to adjust, change
blades, etc. The fence, I agree, is only descent at best (it looks
better in the pictures than it operates in reality). Sorry, I can't
comment on the other saw in question.
Good Luck, Doug

Ron wrote:
I'm looking for a 14" bandsaw and have read a lot of good (great
even)
reviews
about both of these saws.

I have (and have read) Grizzly's spec sheets on both these saws.

However, beyond the basics/specs how do they compare.
-noise
-vibration
-ease of blade replacement
-availability/selection of new blades
-quality of fence
-ability to resaw 6-8" hw (oak & cherry)
-amount of actual dust collected

Many ThankX
Ron

On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 23:59:13 -0600, "D. J. Dorn" wrote:

I am beginning to feel if I replace the bearing guide on my G0555 with basic
block, it might also reduce the noise and maybe get a smoother cut.

BTW, where did you buy your block system and how much you pay for them?
Any trouble encounter when installing the block?

Thank you.

Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care for it
at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic block
system - after that, I have a whole new respect.

No, I bought them from Grizzly - it's the ones that were on the G019 saw and
I think both were about $5.00. I see they have now replaced that saw with a
little brother of the G0555 and it looks to have blocks. Should be an easy
switch - it was for me. You're right, the noise went way down and since I
use 1/2" oak dowels as blocks, I don't worry about setting them just shy of
the gullets on the blade - I pinch it and let the saw blade make it's own
curf. It's more stable, more supported and as I said, quiter as a result.
To be honest, I did not like the saw with the bearings - they were way to
difficult to get to, let alone adjust with that eccentric system and it was
so noisy, it seems tha something was set wrong. I also had to be very
careful about where the gullet was in relationship to the blade and I
probably ruined a couple of blades. Had I not been able to get a block
system for it, I'd have probably gotten rid of it by now.

Don

"WD" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 23:59:13 -0600, "D. J. Dorn"
wrote:

I am beginning to feel if I replace the bearing guide on my G0555 with
basic
block, it might also reduce the noise and maybe get a smoother cut.

BTW, where did you buy your block system and how much you pay for them?
Any trouble encounter when installing the block?

Thank you.

Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care for
it
at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic
block
system - after that, I have a whole new respect.

Thankx Don, this is a help, especially the tip about roller bearing guides.
That't the kind
of info I was looking for.

One more question..
Which resaw blades have you had the best luck with and do the boards
usually
requiring planing/surfacing afterwards.

ThankX again,
Ron



"D. J. Dorn" wrote in message
...
Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care for
it at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic
block system - after that, I have a whole new respect.

Noise: Is pretty quiet - about the same as a friends Delta and quiter
than a friends Jet 16". Not overly fair comparison on the Jet becuase
it's a bigger saw.

Vibration: Inconsequential and have noticed none.

Ease of blade replacement: As a standard saw - you can get 93 1/2 blades
anywhere - if you put the riser on, only wood specialty stores would have
them (105") on hand or you need to order them. I got them all at once and
am getting along fine.

Availablity of new blades - I haven't had trouble finding anything I was
looking for. I use everyting from 1/8th to 3/4 in many different
variations.

Quality of fence: I don't use the fence much but when I do, I find it
adequate - nothing great.

Ability to resaw - even with the riser, I haven't had any issue but the
most I've tried a 10" of oak - I had to go a little slow but it did fine
and the motor did not bog down.

Amount of dust collected: I have the small 1hp Delta and hook it up to
the port on the saw. When done cutting - even resawing, there is nothing
in the lower cabinet. The only thing I have to clean up is what was left
on the top of the table and that is to be expected.

Hope this helps.

Don

"Ron" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for a 14" bandsaw and have read a lot of good (great even)
reviews
about both of these saws.

I have (and have read) Grizzly's spec sheets on both these saws.

However, beyond the basics/specs how do they compare.
-noise
-vibration
-ease of blade replacement
-availability/selection of new blades
-quality of fence
-ability to resaw 6-8" hw (oak & cherry)
-amount of actual dust collected

Many ThankX
Ron

On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 09:08:31 -0600, "D. J. Dorn" wrote:

I make all the mistakes you mentioned below, I too am convince that something
must be done if I am to enjoy the BS. Thanks for your honest assessment.

I called Grizzly about a month ago, they told me bearing guides are better than
guide blocks. Not only they convinced me to keep the bearing guides but didn't
tell me if they have guide blocks.

Do you have any problems removing and installing the guide blocks? BTW, I just
went to Grizzly site and they have increased the price of G0555.

No, I bought them from Grizzly - it's the ones that were on the G019 saw and
I think both were about $5.00. I see they have now replaced that saw with a
little brother of the G0555 and it looks to have blocks. Should be an easy
switch - it was for me. You're right, the noise went way down and since I
use 1/2" oak dowels as blocks, I don't worry about setting them just shy of
the gullets on the blade - I pinch it and let the saw blade make it's own
curf. It's more stable, more supported and as I said, quiter as a result.
To be honest, I did not like the saw with the bearings - they were way to
difficult to get to, let alone adjust with that eccentric system and it was
so noisy, it seems tha something was set wrong. I also had to be very
careful about where the gullet was in relationship to the blade and I
probably ruined a couple of blades. Had I not been able to get a block
system for it, I'd have probably gotten rid of it by now.

Don

"WD" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 23:59:13 -0600, "D. J. Dorn"
wrote:

I am beginning to feel if I replace the bearing guide on my G0555 with
basic
block, it might also reduce the noise and maybe get a smoother cut.

BTW, where did you buy your block system and how much you pay for them?
Any trouble encounter when installing the block?

Thank you.

Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care for
it
at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic
block
system - after that, I have a whole new respect.

I have used 3/4 blades with no trouble even though some argue that 1/2 is
the biggest you should actually use on a 14" saw. I do have a 1/2 and it
works well too but I like the 3/4 better. Yes, the boards would need to be
planed if you are preparing them for a project. The truth is that any 93
1/2 or 105" blade with even 3 tpi has at least 280 teeth - you can't compare
that to a far more expensive and stiffer tablesaw blade with 40 quality
carbide teeth. That said, I have found that the result is smooth and
doesn't take much planning and that the difference in width front to back of
the fresh cut piece is inconsequential. I highly recommend the bandsaw book
by Mark Duginski - it enabled me to take a occasional tool to one of the
most used in my shop.

Don

"Ron" wrote in message
...
Thankx Don, this is a help, especially the tip about roller bearing
guides. That't the kind
of info I was looking for.

One more question..
Which resaw blades have you had the best luck with and do the boards
usually
requiring planing/surfacing afterwards.

ThankX again,
Ron



"D. J. Dorn" wrote in message
...
Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care for
it at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic
block system - after that, I have a whole new respect.

Noise: Is pretty quiet - about the same as a friends Delta and quiter
than a friends Jet 16". Not overly fair comparison on the Jet becuase
it's a bigger saw.

Vibration: Inconsequential and have noticed none.

Ease of blade replacement: As a standard saw - you can get 93 1/2 blades
anywhere - if you put the riser on, only wood specialty stores would have
them (105") on hand or you need to order them. I got them all at once
and am getting along fine.

Availablity of new blades - I haven't had trouble finding anything I was
looking for. I use everyting from 1/8th to 3/4 in many different
variations.

Quality of fence: I don't use the fence much but when I do, I find it
adequate - nothing great.

Ability to resaw - even with the riser, I haven't had any issue but the
most I've tried a 10" of oak - I had to go a little slow but it did fine
and the motor did not bog down.

Amount of dust collected: I have the small 1hp Delta and hook it up to
the port on the saw. When done cutting - even resawing, there is nothing
in the lower cabinet. The only thing I have to clean up is what was left
on the top of the table and that is to be expected.

Hope this helps.

Don

"Ron" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for a 14" bandsaw and have read a lot of good (great even)
reviews
about both of these saws.

I have (and have read) Grizzly's spec sheets on both these saws.

However, beyond the basics/specs how do they compare.
-noise
-vibration
-ease of blade replacement
-availability/selection of new blades
-quality of fence
-ability to resaw 6-8" hw (oak & cherry)
-amount of actual dust collected

Many ThankX
Ron

I wish I rememberd the part numbers - but they were inexpensive ( I think
around $10 for both) and had the tech told me about the merits of the
bearing system, I would have politely asked him for the part numbers anyway
and thanked him for his/her concern. If you would like, send me an email
and I can take a digital picture of the yokes of the different systems.

The guide blocks took about 10 minutes to switch out. You simply remove the
hex nuts that hold the adjustment knobs and turn them until the bearing
block (yoke) comes out. Replace with the block guides. BTW - if anyone is
interested in a set of bearing guides and the yokes that hold them ($39 from
Griz), I'd sell them for $15 shipped to anywhere in the U.S.

Don



"WD" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 09:08:31 -0600, "D. J. Dorn"
wrote:

I make all the mistakes you mentioned below, I too am convince that
something
must be done if I am to enjoy the BS. Thanks for your honest assessment.

I called Grizzly about a month ago, they told me bearing guides are better
than
guide blocks. Not only they convinced me to keep the bearing guides but
didn't
tell me if they have guide blocks.

Do you have any problems removing and installing the guide blocks? BTW, I
just
went to Grizzly site and they have increased the price of G0555.

No, I bought them from Grizzly - it's the ones that were on the G019 saw
and
I think both were about $5.00. I see they have now replaced that saw with
a
little brother of the G0555 and it looks to have blocks. Should be an
easy
switch - it was for me. You're right, the noise went way down and since I
use 1/2" oak dowels as blocks, I don't worry about setting them just shy
of
the gullets on the blade - I pinch it and let the saw blade make it's own
curf. It's more stable, more supported and as I said, quiter as a result.
To be honest, I did not like the saw with the bearings - they were way to
difficult to get to, let alone adjust with that eccentric system and it
was
so noisy, it seems tha something was set wrong. I also had to be very
careful about where the gullet was in relationship to the blade and I
probably ruined a couple of blades. Had I not been able to get a block
system for it, I'd have probably gotten rid of it by now.

Don

"WD" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 23:59:13 -0600, "D. J. Dorn"
wrote:

I am beginning to feel if I replace the bearing guide on my G0555 with
basic
block, it might also reduce the noise and maybe get a smoother cut.

BTW, where did you buy your block system and how much you pay for them?
Any trouble encounter when installing the block?

Thank you.

Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care
for
it
at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic
block
system - after that, I have a whole new respect.

In article , D. J. Dorn
wrote:

I wish I rememberd the part numbers - but they were inexpensive ( I think
around $10 for both) and had the tech told me about the merits of the
bearing system, I would have politely asked him for the part numbers anyway
and thanked him for his/her concern. If you would like, send me an email
and I can take a digital picture of the yokes of the different systems.

The guide blocks took about 10 minutes to switch out. You simply remove the
hex nuts that hold the adjustment knobs and turn them until the bearing
block (yoke) comes out. Replace with the block guides. BTW - if anyone is
interested in a set of bearing guides and the yokes that hold them ($39 from
Griz), I'd sell them for $15 shipped to anywhere in the U.S.

Don

Quoting from an email that Don sent me a while back:

The part numbers you need a

P1019005A Block Holder - $2.50 each - requires 2

You'll also need the 4 set screws to hold the blocks in place. They
take 1/2" blocks.

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

Wow, you keep better records than I do - I'm very impressed. Did you switch
yours out and if so, are you happier with the saw or did you switch back to
your bearing guides?

Don

"Vince Heuring" wrote in message
om...
In article , D. J. Dorn
wrote:

I wish I rememberd the part numbers - but they were inexpensive ( I think
around $10 for both) and had the tech told me about the merits of the
bearing system, I would have politely asked him for the part numbers
anyway
and thanked him for his/her concern. If you would like, send me an email
and I can take a digital picture of the yokes of the different systems.

The guide blocks took about 10 minutes to switch out. You simply remove
the
hex nuts that hold the adjustment knobs and turn them until the bearing
block (yoke) comes out. Replace with the block guides. BTW - if anyone
is
interested in a set of bearing guides and the yokes that hold them ($39
from
Griz), I'd sell them for $15 shipped to anywhere in the U.S.

Don

Quoting from an email that Don sent me a while back:

The part numbers you need a

P1019005A Block Holder - $2.50 each - requires 2

You'll also need the 4 set screws to hold the blocks in place. They
take 1/2" blocks.

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

In article , D. J. Dorn
wrote:

Wow, you keep better records than I do - I'm very impressed. Did you switch
yours out and if so, are you happier with the saw or did you switch back to
your bearing guides?

Don

Yes, and I made blocks from cocobolo. So far I like them better, less
adjusting. But so far I've only used 1/2" and 1/4" blades.

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 09:29:20 -0700, Vince Heuring
wrote:

Thanks you (and Dorm), for the P/N below, I'll call Grizzly if they still carry
the parts. I presume you need one for the top and another for the lower guide.

In article , D. J. Dorn
wrote:

I wish I rememberd the part numbers - but they were inexpensive ( I think
around $10 for both) and had the tech told me about the merits of the
bearing system, I would have politely asked him for the part numbers anyway
and thanked him for his/her concern. If you would like, send me an email
and I can take a digital picture of the yokes of the different systems.

The guide blocks took about 10 minutes to switch out. You simply remove the
hex nuts that hold the adjustment knobs and turn them until the bearing
block (yoke) comes out. Replace with the block guides. BTW - if anyone is
interested in a set of bearing guides and the yokes that hold them ($39 from
Griz), I'd sell them for $15 shipped to anywhere in the U.S.

Don

Quoting from an email that Don sent me a while back:

The part numbers you need a

P1019005A Block Holder - $2.50 each - requires 2

You'll also need the 4 set screws to hold the blocks in place. They
take 1/2" blocks.

On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 21:59:20 -0600, "D. J. Dorn" wrote:

Hi Dorn,

Last week, I got my P1019005A Block Holder from Grizzly and they're still $2.50
each. You might be interested to know that Woodcraft is having sales on their
Olson 1/2" cool guide blocks (Woodcraft's P/N 49H02) for $10.10. I bought two
sets and hope to test it with Olson Pro bandsaw blades. Thanks, appreciate your
help.


I wish I rememberd the part numbers - but they were inexpensive ( I think
around $10 for both) and had the tech told me about the merits of the
bearing system, I would have politely asked him for the part numbers anyway
and thanked him for his/her concern. If you would like, send me an email
and I can take a digital picture of the yokes of the different systems.

The guide blocks took about 10 minutes to switch out. You simply remove the
hex nuts that hold the adjustment knobs and turn them until the bearing
block (yoke) comes out. Replace with the block guides. BTW - if anyone is
interested in a set of bearing guides and the yokes that hold them ($39 from
Griz), I'd sell them for $15 shipped to anywhere in the U.S.

Don



"WD" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 09:08:31 -0600, "D. J. Dorn"
wrote:

I make all the mistakes you mentioned below, I too am convince that
something
must be done if I am to enjoy the BS. Thanks for your honest assessment.

I called Grizzly about a month ago, they told me bearing guides are better
than
guide blocks. Not only they convinced me to keep the bearing guides but
didn't
tell me if they have guide blocks.

Do you have any problems removing and installing the guide blocks? BTW, I
just
went to Grizzly site and they have increased the price of G0555.

No, I bought them from Grizzly - it's the ones that were on the G019 saw
and
I think both were about $5.00. I see they have now replaced that saw with
a
little brother of the G0555 and it looks to have blocks. Should be an
easy
switch - it was for me. You're right, the noise went way down and since I
use 1/2" oak dowels as blocks, I don't worry about setting them just shy
of
the gullets on the blade - I pinch it and let the saw blade make it's own
curf. It's more stable, more supported and as I said, quiter as a result.
To be honest, I did not like the saw with the bearings - they were way to
difficult to get to, let alone adjust with that eccentric system and it
was
so noisy, it seems tha something was set wrong. I also had to be very
careful about where the gullet was in relationship to the blade and I
probably ruined a couple of blades. Had I not been able to get a block
system for it, I'd have probably gotten rid of it by now.

Don

"WD" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 23:59:13 -0600, "D. J. Dorn"
wrote:

I am beginning to feel if I replace the bearing guide on my G0555 with
basic
block, it might also reduce the noise and maybe get a smoother cut.

BTW, where did you buy your block system and how much you pay for them?
Any trouble encounter when installing the block?

Thank you.

Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care
for
it
at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic
block
system - after that, I have a whole new respect.