I am replacing my older (guessing pre 1950s, but really have no idea) Unisaw
with a new tablesaw, mainly for better dust collection.

My saw has no motor cover, no sloping plate in the cabinet, a louvered front
access door, a 6x6" hole in the back of the cabinet, as well as the assorted
openings around the adjustment handwheels. So adding dust collection would
be a major undertaking, and chances of success pretty low.

The question is: what is the experience with dust collection on different
table saw models? I have experience with newer (1990) unisaws and the
Dewalt, but not many other models. Your help is appreciated!

PS: I am (probably) going to be using a cyclone, most likely one of the
preconfigured Oneida packages.

Matthew

My tablesaw has more holes in it than that and I my dust collector works
pretty good.
Seems to me to be an extreme reason to replace a Unisaw, no mater what age!
Greg


"Matthew" wrote in message
...
I am replacing my older (guessing pre 1950s, but really have no idea)
Unisaw
with a new tablesaw, mainly for better dust collection.

My saw has no motor cover, no sloping plate in the cabinet, a louvered
front
access door, a 6x6" hole in the back of the cabinet, as well as the
assorted
openings around the adjustment handwheels. So adding dust collection
would
be a major undertaking, and chances of success pretty low.

The question is: what is the experience with dust collection on different
table saw models? I have experience with newer (1990) unisaws and the
Dewalt, but not many other models. Your help is appreciated!

PS: I am (probably) going to be using a cyclone, most likely one of the
preconfigured Oneida packages.

Matthew

IMHO, dust collection is not that good of a sole criteria to select a table
saw, or to replace one, especially if its a vintage Unisaw. I am not that
familiar with the older Unisaws, and they might not be dust friendly, but
can it be retrofitted with a sloped floor, cover etc.?

The main products I want from a table saw are precision, reliability, safety
and things like that. Beyond that I'll try to make dust collection work.
Don't get me wrong. I do believe that dust collection is an important
factor but I don't think it overrides the craft, itself.

The space I work in is about 10x20 -- and with the table saw centrally
located it covers everything with dust. This is also the space I do finish
work in, so I end up spending a lot of time cleaning -- which is a waste of
time, not to mention the crud in the nose

I currently own a homemade cyclone, tho, which is VERY effective on my
planer, and jointer, and shaper. You give me hope that the Unisaw may be
"collectible" (pun intended, assuredly) -- any advice on that? Above table,
below table? Seems to me most of the dust should be headed down, as that is
the direction the blade cuts... so the initial guess was to just hook the
collector to the cabinet, hence the question about the holes.

Matthew

"Greg O" wrote in message
...
My tablesaw has more holes in it than that and I my dust collector works
pretty good.
Seems to me to be an extreme reason to replace a Unisaw, no mater what
age!
Greg


"Matthew" wrote in message
...
I am replacing my older (guessing pre 1950s, but really have no idea)
Unisaw
with a new tablesaw, mainly for better dust collection.

My saw has no motor cover, no sloping plate in the cabinet, a louvered
front
access door, a 6x6" hole in the back of the cabinet, as well as the
assorted
openings around the adjustment handwheels. So adding dust collection
would
be a major undertaking, and chances of success pretty low.

The question is: what is the experience with dust collection on different
table saw models? I have experience with newer (1990) unisaws and the
Dewalt, but not many other models. Your help is appreciated!

PS: I am (probably) going to be using a cyclone, most likely one of the
preconfigured Oneida packages.

Matthew

"Matthew" wrote in message
...
I am replacing my older (guessing pre 1950s, but really have no idea)
Unisaw with a new tablesaw, mainly for better dust collection.

My saw has no motor cover, no sloping plate in the cabinet, a louvered
front access door, a 6x6" hole in the back of the cabinet, as well as the
assorted openings around the adjustment handwheels. So adding dust
collection would be a major undertaking, and chances of success pretty
low.

That's a shame.... need someone to take that old saw off your hands? Where
is it located :~)

"Matthew" wrote in message
...
The space I work in is about 10x20 -- and with the table saw centrally
located it covers everything with dust. This is also the space I do
finish
work in, so I end up spending a lot of time cleaning -- which is a waste
of
time, not to mention the crud in the nose

I currently own a homemade cyclone, tho, which is VERY effective on my
planer, and jointer, and shaper. You give me hope that the Unisaw may be
"collectible" (pun intended, assuredly) -- any advice on that? Above
table,
below table?

If you use a zero clearance insert, a large portion of the dust is going to
be above the table and cabinet collection will do no good. A good overblade
guard with excellent dust collection will help a lot and it doesn't require
that you replace your saw. I'm so obsessive compulsive that I build a
separate dust collection nozzle independent of the blade guard. Its not for
most people, but it works better than most setups for dust collection.

Bob

On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 15:19:43 GMT, "Bob"
wrote:

I'm so obsessive compulsive that I build a
separate dust collection nozzle independent of the blade guard. Its not for
most people, but it works better than most setups for dust collection.

Bob -- Could you post some photos? Or a source? I'd be quite interested.
TIA. -- Igor

"Bob G." wrote in message

Getting anal with the fence alignment can even reduce the above table
dust to almost nothing...

Ok, I'm confused. How will finely adjusting the fence alignment reduce the
dust? My experience with improperly adjusted fences suggests there may be
some burning and/or a slightly wider kerf cut than normal, but not a great
increase in dust.

On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 17:57:17 -0500, "Upscale"
wrote:

"Bob G." wrote in message

Getting anal with the fence alignment can even reduce the above table
dust to almost nothing...

Ok, I'm confused. How will finely adjusting the fence alignment reduce the
dust? My experience with improperly adjusted fences suggests there may be
some burning and/or a slightly wider kerf cut than normal, but not a great
increase in dust.


I'm also interested in the answer.

Barry

My guess is that if the fence is correctly aligned, the back of the blade
tracks **exactly** the cut made by the front, so no material is removed, and
no dust generated. If the fence isn't aligned, the back of the blade
removes material, which gets kicked up into your face to remind you to align
the fence...

Still, any case-hardening or stress in the wood will cause the board itself
not to remain straight, making the discussion a moot point.

Matthew

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 17:57:17 -0500, "Upscale"
wrote:

"Bob G." wrote in message

Getting anal with the fence alignment can even reduce the above table
dust to almost nothing...

Ok, I'm confused. How will finely adjusting the fence alignment reduce the
dust? My experience with improperly adjusted fences suggests there may be
some burning and/or a slightly wider kerf cut than normal, but not a great
increase in dust.


I'm also interested in the answer.

Barry

On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 21:08:05 -0600, "Matthew"
wrote:

My guess is that if the fence is correctly aligned, the back of the blade
tracks **exactly** the cut made by the front, so no material is removed, and
no dust generated. If the fence isn't aligned, the back of the blade
removes material, which gets kicked up into your face to remind you to align
the fence...

Still, any case-hardening or stress in the wood will cause the board itself
not to remain straight, making the discussion a moot point.

Matthew
=========================

Honestly you are correct,.....

I used to have my fence slightly off set away from the blade at the
rear and I did get a lot more saw dust on the top of the table...

Since I adjusted the fence to be almost dead on parallel to the blade
(Almost because I can not get it any closer) I get very very little
sawdust on top of the table ...

As far as internal stress in the wood goes..That can be a problem
without a doubt ...

I normally work with Walnut and do not run into this problem very much
BUT if I am ripping PINE I get frustrated and give thanks to the
"splitter" gods ...almost every single time...

I will admit that on my overhead guard I moved the DC port from the
rear of the guard to the front .. and that I run a 1 1/4 inch hose
from the blade guard to a shop vac and use my DC to handle inside the
cabinet...

Bob Griffiths

"Bob G." wrote in message
...

I do use an over the table blade guard with a DC port and I have to
agree with you in that it helps... BUT I have to disagree with your
terminology concerning the LARGE amount of sawdust that ends up on the
table top IF you are using a Zero Clearance insert...

I can only tell you what happened with my saw when I added a ZCI, even with
the fence aligned. So it just goes to show there is no absolute statement
about all tablesaws.

Bob

One of the benefits of a cabinet saw over a contractor saw. It might
seem like a moot point, but it's a big plus in keeping a tidy shop.

"igor" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 15:19:43 GMT, "Bob"
wrote:

Bob -- Could you post some photos? Or a source? I'd be quite
interested.

Sure. I've got it documented on a web page.

http://www.anneldavis.com/bobandanne...collection.htm

Bob