Folks -

Ok, okay..... she had her pick of a dozen stains, dyes & shellacs for a
solid oak Shaker Cradle.... and the choice is Natural Tone Satin
Polyurethene... So, that's that...

I am prefinishing the red oak before I cut and assemble, in a bid to get a
smoother finish. A Couple of questions have crept up on me:

1) Even though I am brushing the finish on the boards in a fairly warm room,
the finish is rather thick. I would * really* like to thin it with paint
thinner ~ 5% by volume to improve levelling. Would this be good practice?
What kind of trouble can I get into?

2) Nibs - I got 'em! I expect that I'll wet sand with thinner and a sanding
block for better flatness than I might get with steel wool. What grit
should I use?

3) I have started with 2 coats and will let it dry in a warm location for
2-3 days before I sand - any tips for the final applications of poly? I
should expect to do some finish sanding, no?

4) I'd like to tape off the areas that will be glued - is blue painter's
tape up to the task if I am careful about finishing near the tape line?

TIA for your remarks...

John Moorhead

Mon, Dec 13, 2004, 6:52am (EST+5)
(John=A0Moorhead) asks:
snip 1) Even though I am brushing the finish on the boards in a fairly
warm room, the finish is rather thick. I would * really* like to thin it
with paint thinner ~ 5% by volume to improve levelling. Would this be
good practice? What kind of trouble can I get into? snip

Ah, I've got this part covered. If you're right handed, hold your
left hand up in front of you, and vice versa. Cup your hand, with your
fingers point up, and stand the can on your fingers, front of the can
facing you. Stare at it for 5-10 seconds. Then, slowly, use your other
hand, and turn the can so the front of the can is now facing away from
you. Now, slowly read the back of the can. It should tell you what to
thin with. Additionally, there should be a 1-800 number that you can
use to call the manufacturer, and ask them questions.



JOAT
We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails.
- unknown

JT -

Well, yes... Of course I read the directions... I was asking for personal
experience of those on the board in addition to the MFR's instructions that
may well have been vetted by a bunch of Lawyers rather than experienced
woodworkers.... My bad!

I'll bet you're also the only guy that drives 55.0 in a 55 zone too.... Ah
yes, as Mark Twain said, virtue is its' own punishment.

Thanks SO much for the advice!

John

Mon, Dec 13, 2004, 8:35pm (EST+5)
(John=A0Moorhead) now says:
JT -
Well, yes... Of course I read the directions... I was asking for
personal experience of those on the board in addition to the MFR's
instructions that may well have been vetted by a bunch of Lawyers rather
than experienced woodworkers.... My bad!
I'll bet you're also the only guy that drives 55.0 in a 55 zone too....
Ah
yes, as Mark Twain said, virtue is its' own punishment.
Thanks SO much for the advice!

Ah, new input. Well, you didn't say you read the instructions, and
so many people don't. But, that being the case, if it was me, first
thing I'd do would be call and ask what the manufacturer's people have
to say. Then I'd probably just go aheat, thin it, then try it out on
some scrap. Different manufacturers, probably slight different results,
that way you've got first hand experience. By the way, kerosene works,
but takes longer to dry.

Depends. If i've got some guy right on my bumper, sometimes I do.
Other times, usually depends on the traffic flow. But, as I'm usually
not in any great rush to get anywhere, 55 is usually good for me. On a
real nice day, and no traffic behind me, might just do 45.

You're welcome.



JOAT
We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails.
- unknown

I normaly sand with 220 grit, dampen the wood and let it dry. Sand again
lightly with 220 or higher just enough to remove the nibs. I have been thining
Minwax Polys about 25% and applying as a wipe on. Usually takes 3 to 5 coats.
Sometimes I add BLO to the first and second coat. Lightly sand or steelwool
between coats as needed. I also prefinish parts before assembling when they are
hard to get at.

Mike

In article ,
ojunk (Mike Myers) wrote:

I normaly sand with 220 grit, dampen the wood and let it dry. Sand again
lightly with 220 or higher just enough to remove the nibs. I have been
thining
Minwax Polys about 25% and applying as a wipe on. Usually takes 3 to 5 coats.
Sometimes I add BLO to the first and second coat. Lightly sand or steelwool
between coats as needed. I also prefinish parts before assembling when they
are
hard to get at.

Mike

A woodster in Rochest NY suggested once that I should try this:

30% thinned MinWax Poly. He called it a '**** coat'. Soaks in realllly
deep. Thinned with Varsol.
Remove the fur (his words) after 3 days with 220.
Do it again.
Next two coats thinned just enough to level the brush marks.
sand in between with 320.
Then when all is dried and hardened, 0000 steelwool loaded with Trewax,
Carnuba.
Clean and buff.

Looks as good as Clarke's Catalyzed laquer from an HVLP in an
electrostatic downdraft booth.

Nay...BETTER!

I tried this on cherry (is there another wood?) and maple.
*I* like the results, but it's so personal.

Rob.

"Dynamite With A Laserbeam"