I've been turning for a couple years. For about a year and a half I
sanded my turning by hand using plain sandpaper (usually the same stuff
I used to sand my other woodworking projects).

This year I replaced my lathe with one with more power and a reversing
motor. I've also been buying those expensive sanding disks because I've
been wanting to improve the appearance of my finished turnings.

However a nagging memory has been haunting me, I remember seeing
something about not needing sanding disks if your lathe will reverse.

I've also seen some demos where sanding was done just by holding the
sandpaper by hand and not using a drill and velcro sanding disk.

How many turners use the sanding disks? How many don't?

Which is better?

With the lathe in motion and using sanding disks, you can sand in any
relative direction you care to by choosing which part of the disk touches
the wood. You want to minimize pressure, of course, so you don't waste
paper and burnish old sanding marks into the surface. My method is to use a
supported sander, which saves me money, based on others' accounts of
sandpaper use, possibly time, though original surface quality probably plays
a role there, and a produces a surface with pores open enough to refract
light, versus packed with dust and burnished.

The practice of sanding in reverse is something from flat work which was
valid on face grain (25%) of a anything but a long-grain bowl, and for hand
sanding, which pressed the torn fibers into adjacent pores. I don't believe
it's necessary nor desirable with machine sanding. Orbital and RO sanders
have eliminated the practice in flat work, because so little heat is
produced and so little pressure required.
A water set for fuzz at 320 produces little in the way of roughness at my
house, which is why I don't even bother on some woods. Also, my supported
sander doesn't burnish, for which reverse sanding is touted as a remedy.

"william kossack" wrote in message
news:WKPcd.413671$Fg5.77638@attbi_s53...
I've been turning for a couple years. For about a year and a half I
sanded my turning by hand using plain sandpaper (usually the same stuff
I used to sand my other woodworking projects).

This year I replaced my lathe with one with more power and a reversing
motor. I've also been buying those expensive sanding disks because I've
been wanting to improve the appearance of my finished turnings.

However a nagging memory has been haunting me, I remember seeing
something about not needing sanding disks if your lathe will reverse.

I've also seen some demos where sanding was done just by holding the
sandpaper by hand and not using a drill and velcro sanding disk.

How many turners use the sanding disks? How many don't?

Which is better?

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:42:14 GMT, william kossack
wrote:

I've been turning for a couple years. For about a year and a half I
sanded my turning by hand using plain sandpaper (usually the same stuff
I used to sand my other woodworking projects).

This year I replaced my lathe with one with more power and a reversing
motor. I've also been buying those expensive sanding disks because I've
been wanting to improve the appearance of my finished turnings.

However a nagging memory has been haunting me, I remember seeing
something about not needing sanding disks if your lathe will reverse.

I've also seen some demos where sanding was done just by holding the
sandpaper by hand and not using a drill and velcro sanding disk.

How many turners use the sanding disks? How many don't?

Which is better?


I don't use sanding disks. But I do have a reversing switch that
helps. Have you tired burnishing with a handful of wood chips? This
gives the turnings a very nice shine.

william kossack wrote:


I've also seen some demos where sanding was done just by holding the
sandpaper by hand and not using a drill and velcro sanding disk.

How many turners use the sanding disks? How many don't?

Which is better?

I used to use 2" sanding disk in a drill for almost everything, to
remove toolmarks. Now I've improved my gouge and skew technique and
don't need to do that anymore. I start hand sanding on the lathe
(spin-sanding) at 320 grit, sometimes 220, finishing up at 1500 in less
time than it used to take getting to 220. I'm bragging, but I'm also
trying to help you envision a goal that's not too hard to attain by
using very sharp tools, and using them correctly.

It also helps having good sandpaper. The stuff available at home supply
centers and hardware stores is rarely good enough. I use Finkat brand up
to 600 grit, then Norton Black Ice--purchased at an auto parts
store--for the rest. Klingspore is also good.
BTW, I don't have reverse on my lathe, but I've always thought it could
improve the final surface.

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/



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On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:42:14 GMT, william kossack wrote:

I've been turning for a couple years. For about a year and a half I
sanded my turning by hand using plain sandpaper (usually the same stuff
I used to sand my other woodworking projects).

This year I replaced my lathe with one with more power and a reversing
motor. I've also been buying those expensive sanding disks because I've
been wanting to improve the appearance of my finished turnings.

However a nagging memory has been haunting me, I remember seeing
something about not needing sanding disks if your lathe will reverse.

I've also seen some demos where sanding was done just by holding the
sandpaper by hand and not using a drill and velcro sanding disk.

How many turners use the sanding disks? How many don't?

Which is better?

For bowl work I *ONLY* powersand with 2, 3, or 5" discs. Personally, I wouldn't even CONSIDER handsanding them. I find the finish
and speed of powersanding vastly superior and faster. Yet some folks like to handsand. Each of us have our own way of doing
things.

For good prices on good quality sanding discs, try http:\\www.sandpaper.ca

Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

I agree with Peter, I only power sand bowls. Really speeds up the process
and is the only way I've ever been able to get a good finish on the inside.
I hand sand for hollow vessels, spindle work etc.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/

"Peter Teubel" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:42:14 GMT, william kossack
wrote:

I've been turning for a couple years. For about a year and a half I
sanded my turning by hand using plain sandpaper (usually the same stuff
I used to sand my other woodworking projects).

This year I replaced my lathe with one with more power and a reversing
motor. I've also been buying those expensive sanding disks because I've
been wanting to improve the appearance of my finished turnings.

However a nagging memory has been haunting me, I remember seeing
something about not needing sanding disks if your lathe will reverse.

I've also seen some demos where sanding was done just by holding the
sandpaper by hand and not using a drill and velcro sanding disk.

How many turners use the sanding disks? How many don't?

Which is better?

For bowl work I *ONLY* powersand with 2, 3, or 5" discs. Personally, I
wouldn't even CONSIDER handsanding them. I find the finish
and speed of powersanding vastly superior and faster. Yet some folks like
to handsand. Each of us have our own way of doing
things.

For good prices on good quality sanding discs, try
http:\\www.sandpaper.ca

Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

I have tried power sanding but I have found that for my purposes hand
sanding works the best for me. I feel that I have more control with sanding
pressure and for me this leaves a better finish.

Steven Raphael
"william kossack" wrote in message
news:WKPcd.413671$Fg5.77638@attbi_s53...
I've been turning for a couple years. For about a year and a half I
sanded my turning by hand using plain sandpaper (usually the same stuff I
used to sand my other woodworking projects).

This year I replaced my lathe with one with more power and a reversing
motor. I've also been buying those expensive sanding disks because I've
been wanting to improve the appearance of my finished turnings.

However a nagging memory has been haunting me, I remember seeing
something about not needing sanding disks if your lathe will reverse.

I've also seen some demos where sanding was done just by holding the
sandpaper by hand and not using a drill and velcro sanding disk.

How many turners use the sanding disks? How many don't?

Which is better?

I have tried sanding without sanding disks using regular sand paper.
I have never been able to get a good finish with that technique. I
have been turning bowls for about 2 and a half years and am having to
do less sanding now than when I first started. But I still need to
sand. Some people need to sand more than others. Some bowls need to
be sanded more than others. Some woods need to be sanded more than
others. Richard Raffin (I've seen him on video start with 60 grit and
do a lot of sanding on the lathe) does more sanding than David
Ellsworth (I took his class and he says he usually starts with 220
grit off the lathe). All I know is I need to sand while the lathe is
turning and the grit I start with directly depends on many other
factors.

I use an electric drill with the lathe off on some of the end grain
problems. I also many times use the drill with courser grits while
the lathe is moving at 500 rpm or slower to get rid of tool marks. I
recently started using a passive sander (the Sorby brand) for the
finer grits. The finish is better and I don't wear out the electric
drill so fast.

I started out spending about 30 cents a piece for velcro disks at
places like Woodcraft and Packards etc. Way too much. So I found a
supplier that sold them for 20 cents a piece
(http://www.turningwood.com/sanding.htm). A bit better but still to
much for me. As of now I am punching my own using the technique at
this web site...http://www.kestrelcreek.com/Sanding_Tip.htm. Now I am
spending about 6 or 7 cents per velcro disk. I can live with that.
The only draw back is that in order to save money using this technique
you must make a larger initial investment.

Hope this helps,
Ted