I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about
29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it
through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The
board got thinner but never smooth. I decided to just keep going to see
if I ran it through a few more times, taking light cuts if it would come
out nice. No way. So now the board is too thin (don't worry folks, I
KNEW it was gonna be too thin; I'm in experimenting stage at this point)
so I decided to see if sanding would remove the pits. Sure enough, the
ROS, followed by 1/4" pad sander, made it purdy.

As the Joker said in Batman, "HOW COME NOBODY TOLD ME..." Had I
switched to sanding sooner, I would not have thinned the board too much.
In order to save the board, I glued another piece of oak to the back.
I'm anticipating this all might end up in the junk pile when I route
the edge detail, but nothing ventured, nothing gained.

So...just how much are those Performax sanders?

How come purists don't like sanding? I know it can obscure the wood,
but isn't there a time when sanding is the only solution to tear-out?
Please tell me how you would have dealt with oak tearing during
thicknessing. I tried both directions; the first direction was better.
I know to watch the cathedrals...

dave

Tue, Nov 18, 2003, 4:39am (EST+5) (Bay=A0Area=A0Dave)
decided to post:
snip Please tell me how you would have dealt with oak tearing during
thicknessing. snip

Sanding?

Here's some inspiration for you, you can probably salvate it to
make one of these.
http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...=3DB00008W6QS=

And: http://www.geocities.com/tanglung_2000/gesundheit.wav

JOAT
Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
missing.

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 15 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...OMETUNESILIKE/

"T." wrote in message
...

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B00008W6QS


Geez Louise! Target owns Marshall Fields now???

Could have used a cabinet scraper, y'know.

Though the lessons learned with pain tend to be the best-remembered.

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about
29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it
through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The
board got thinner but never smooth. I decided to just keep going to see
if I ran it through a few more times, taking light cuts if it would come
out nice. No way. So now the board is too thin (don't worry folks, I
KNEW it was gonna be too thin; I'm in experimenting stage at this point)
so I decided to see if sanding would remove the pits. Sure enough, the
ROS, followed by 1/4" pad sander, made it purdy.

ah, the scraper I deleted from my recent Lee Valley ordering list, just
before I called their 800 number... I was trying to curb my tool buying
impulses or I'll have no money left for lumber.

dave

George wrote:

Could have used a cabinet scraper, y'know.

Though the lessons learned with pain tend to be the best-remembered.

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...

I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about
29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it
through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The
board got thinner but never smooth. I decided to just keep going to see
if I ran it through a few more times, taking light cuts if it would come
out nice. No way. So now the board is too thin (don't worry folks, I
KNEW it was gonna be too thin; I'm in experimenting stage at this point)
so I decided to see if sanding would remove the pits. Sure enough, the
ROS, followed by 1/4" pad sander, made it purdy.

On 18-Nov-2003, Bay Area Dave wrote:

ah, the scraper I deleted from my recent Lee Valley ordering list, just
before I called their 800 number... I was trying to curb my tool buying
impulses or I'll have no money left for lumber.

I'd been suffering from tool envy when going thru the LV catalogue. One
day, I decided to make a list (Christmas is coming and SWMBO understands
LV) of all the _little_ things I've been wanting. Three columns, ranking
urgency etc. I ended up with a list of about 15-16 items. Most expensive
was C$32, total cost for all items was C$200.

I thought, "for $200, I can get rid of a lot of my wishing and drooling",
so I drove over to LV and bought the whole list. No more wishing, thinking
or impulses and I use the things regularly.

Mike

I received the Lee Valley catalog last week and it was real nice and full of
stocking stuffers. SWMBO even picked it up. Then I got thinking and jumped
to the Lee Valley website and aw shucks No Wish List. I hope they add one
for next year.

Rich
"Michael Daly" wrote in message
le.rogers.com...
On 18-Nov-2003, Bay Area Dave wrote:

ah, the scraper I deleted from my recent Lee Valley ordering list, just
before I called their 800 number... I was trying to curb my tool buying
impulses or I'll have no money left for lumber.

I'd been suffering from tool envy when going thru the LV catalogue. One
day, I decided to make a list (Christmas is coming and SWMBO understands
LV) of all the _little_ things I've been wanting. Three columns, ranking
urgency etc. I ended up with a list of about 15-16 items. Most expensive
was C$32, total cost for all items was C$200.

I thought, "for $200, I can get rid of a lot of my wishing and drooling",
so I drove over to LV and bought the whole list. No more wishing,
thinking
or impulses and I use the things regularly.

Mike

"RKON" wrote in message
news:dErub.6751$PJ6.5505@okepread05...
I received the Lee Valley catalog last week and it was real nice and full
of
stocking stuffers. SWMBO even picked it up. Then I got thinking and jumped
to the Lee Valley website and aw shucks No Wish List. I hope they add one
for next year.

.... that's on my "wish list" too....

Cheers -

Rob Lee

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 14:39:31 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

ah, the scraper I deleted from my recent Lee Valley ordering list, just
before I called their 800 number... I was trying to curb my tool buying
impulses or I'll have no money left for lumber.

dave

George wrote:

Could have used a cabinet scraper, y'know.

Thass OK man, you'd likely still get tearout. Sanding will work in the
most goldarn frickin' cement-hard tearout=prone woods you can find.
Purpleheart, for instance-

James

Did you try turning it around and running it through the planer in the
opposite direction, or slightly skewed? Also moistening the board, or just
the area, before planing it sometimes helps, although a scraper is the best
way to take care of spots like that.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about
29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it
through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The
board got thinner but never smooth.

yes, I did run it through in each direction, even though I knew the
original direction was the "correct" direction for the rest of the
board. It didn't help. I also skewed it a bit. I'll get a
scraper...sigh...I almost had one on my Lee Valley order due here in a
couple of days with the smoother plane.

dave

Swingman wrote:

Did you try turning it around and running it through the planer in the
opposite direction, or slightly skewed? Also moistening the board, or just
the area, before planing it sometimes helps, although a scraper is the best
way to take care of spots like that.

Thats why the "brits" call em thicknesser to get it close but never to its
final size,time to buy some smoothing planes and scrapers.

--
Knowledge speaks, wisdom listen.....
Jimi Hendrix
"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about
29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it
through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The
board got thinner but never smooth. I decided to just keep going to see
if I ran it through a few more times, taking light cuts if it would come
out nice. No way. So now the board is too thin (don't worry folks, I
KNEW it was gonna be too thin; I'm in experimenting stage at this point)
so I decided to see if sanding would remove the pits. Sure enough, the
ROS, followed by 1/4" pad sander, made it purdy.

As the Joker said in Batman, "HOW COME NOBODY TOLD ME..." Had I
switched to sanding sooner, I would not have thinned the board too much.
In order to save the board, I glued another piece of oak to the back.
I'm anticipating this all might end up in the junk pile when I route
the edge detail, but nothing ventured, nothing gained.

So...just how much are those Performax sanders?

How come purists don't like sanding? I know it can obscure the wood,
but isn't there a time when sanding is the only solution to tear-out?
Please tell me how you would have dealt with oak tearing during
thicknessing. I tried both directions; the first direction was better.
I know to watch the cathedrals...

dave

time to buy some smoothing planes and scrapers

No it's time for B.A.D. to go to Ikea for his woodworking projects...but naw
he'd probably screw up that too... [grin]

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"martin" wrote in message
news
Thats why the "brits" call em thicknesser to get it close but never to its
final size,time to buy some smoothing planes and scrapers.

Hey Rumpty, was it something I said?

dave

Rumpty wrote:

time to buy some smoothing planes and scrapers


No it's time for B.A.D. to go to Ikea for his woodworking projects...but naw
he'd probably screw up that too... [grin]

Have you tried sharpening your planer blades? If my planer can't handle the
figure woods I like to work with (curly maple and curly cherry), then that's
my cue to change blades. I have 3 sets for my trusty old Ryobi AP10 and I
keep rotating them so I always have a very sharp set installed. I just
planed some highly figured curly maple (which I consider one of the tougher
figured woods to work with) and came out with a near perfect surface.

gary


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about
29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it
through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The
board got thinner but never smooth. I decided to just keep going to see
if I ran it through a few more times, taking light cuts if it would come
out nice. No way. So now the board is too thin (don't worry folks, I
KNEW it was gonna be too thin; I'm in experimenting stage at this point)
so I decided to see if sanding would remove the pits. Sure enough, the
ROS, followed by 1/4" pad sander, made it purdy.

As the Joker said in Batman, "HOW COME NOBODY TOLD ME..." Had I
switched to sanding sooner, I would not have thinned the board too much.
In order to save the board, I glued another piece of oak to the back.
I'm anticipating this all might end up in the junk pile when I route
the edge detail, but nothing ventured, nothing gained.

So...just how much are those Performax sanders?

How come purists don't like sanding? I know it can obscure the wood,
but isn't there a time when sanding is the only solution to tear-out?
Please tell me how you would have dealt with oak tearing during
thicknessing. I tried both directions; the first direction was better.
I know to watch the cathedrals...

dave

I'll take a look under the hood to check the blades, but judging from
everything else I throw at it, I doubt they are dull. Thanks for the
tip; I will look at them in a few minutes.

dave

Gary wrote:

Have you tried sharpening your planer blades? If my planer can't handle the
figure woods I like to work with (curly maple and curly cherry), then that's
my cue to change blades. I have 3 sets for my trusty old Ryobi AP10 and I
keep rotating them so I always have a very sharp set installed. I just
planed some highly figured curly maple (which I consider one of the tougher
figured woods to work with) and came out with a near perfect surface.

gary


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...

I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about
29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it
through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The
board got thinner but never smooth. I decided to just keep going to see
if I ran it through a few more times, taking light cuts if it would come
out nice. No way. So now the board is too thin (don't worry folks, I
KNEW it was gonna be too thin; I'm in experimenting stage at this point)
so I decided to see if sanding would remove the pits. Sure enough, the
ROS, followed by 1/4" pad sander, made it purdy.

As the Joker said in Batman, "HOW COME NOBODY TOLD ME..." Had I
switched to sanding sooner, I would not have thinned the board too much.
In order to save the board, I glued another piece of oak to the back.
I'm anticipating this all might end up in the junk pile when I route
the edge detail, but nothing ventured, nothing gained.

So...just how much are those Performax sanders?

How come purists don't like sanding? I know it can obscure the wood,
but isn't there a time when sanding is the only solution to tear-out?
Please tell me how you would have dealt with oak tearing during
thicknessing. I tried both directions; the first direction was better.
I know to watch the cathedrals...

dave