Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I kept trying to remove about two square inches of tear-out in an oak
board with the nicest grain I had left in the shop. the sucker is about 29 x 4 x 3/4". It is for my last drawer front on my desk. I ran it through the thickness planer hoping that would remove the tearout. The board got thinner but never smooth. I decided to just keep going to see if I ran it through a few more times, taking light cuts if it would come out nice. No way. So now the board is too thin (don't worry folks, I KNEW it was gonna be too thin; I'm in experimenting stage at this point) so I decided to see if sanding would remove the pits. Sure enough, the ROS, followed by 1/4" pad sander, made it purdy. As the Joker said in Batman, "HOW COME NOBODY TOLD ME..." Had I switched to sanding sooner, I would not have thinned the board too much. In order to save the board, I glued another piece of oak to the back. I'm anticipating this all might end up in the junk pile when I route the edge detail, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. So...just how much are those Performax sanders? ![]() How come purists don't like sanding? I know it can obscure the wood, but isn't there a time when sanding is the only solution to tear-out? Please tell me how you would have dealt with oak tearing during thicknessing. I tried both directions; the first direction was better. I know to watch the cathedrals... dave |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Mars Rover Wheels, one large machined piece? | Metalworking | |||
Sanding indoors | Woodworking |