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#1
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Varnish = Urethane ????
Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for
use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas |
#3
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Ha, a can of
varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. BRBR Urethane is not varnish. Not even all varnishes are alike. What do you need vrnish for? If it;s for exterior or waterproof use, get a marine spar varnish. If not, then you can probably use Waterlox instead. It wipes on, self levels and barely needs any sanding. urethane has no flexibility at all, so it can crack. I almost never use it. |
#4
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What do you needvrnish for
Well, I'm doing some finish testing for a bed being built. Wipe on poly was available but most people here discourage using Polyurethane because of it's plasitic look. I have several samples of different stains on red oak topcoated with Olympic oil. I wanted to try a wipe on varnish on new samples of the two colors I like best and see if I liked that better than the oil as a topcoat. Depending on what it looks like I will need very little or a lot so I just wanted to get a small can for testing. Mike in Arkansas |
#6
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Mark & Juanita wrote:
On 01 Dec 2004 04:30:45 GMT, (JMWEBER987) wrote: YMMV, but I've found that the Watco Wipe-on poly is thin enough that it doesn't give that plastic look. Also, don't forget, that it depends a lot how much you put on per layer, and how many layers you put on. I'm especially partial to shellac underneath (to seal and "pop" the grain) and poly on top in very very thin layers. You end up with a durable finish that doesn't look plasticy at all. -BAT |
#7
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#8
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On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 06:38:25 GMT, patriarch
wrote: The nice thing about Waterlox is that it is an oil/varnish, sort of like Watco, only with a lot more solids (resins). So it builds much more quickly. T Waterlox also makes a urethane product that can be thinned and wiped on. The urethane and Original are both excellent products. Tung Oil varnishes are sold under the brands McCloskey (Tung Seal and Gym Seal), and Hope's, among others. Pratt and Lambert makes terrific alkyd varnishes, available at any paint store that carries P&L products. Still want poly? ANY polyurethane can be thinned down to become "wiping poly", just like Minwax and Watco. Plain old boiled linseed oil, from any hardware store will pop figure under any of the above or shellac. ** Don't forget that varnish and BLO rags can spontaneously combust, don't leave them around all balled up! ** Have fun, Barry |
#9
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patriarch wrote:
snip The nice thing about Waterlox is that it is an oil/varnish, sort of like Watco, only with a lot more solids (resins). So it builds much more quickly. Two or three coats on red oak, and you're ready for wax, if you want to tone down the gloss. Application is incredibly easy, and it brings a nice, mild amber tone to unstained red oak. See if you can find a sample... Patriarch At the local Woodcraft store they have Waterlox samples in little pouches...should be more than enough to test on your samples. Samples of several Waterlox products are available...something like $2.00 each IIRC. Walt |
#10
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I agree that brush-on poly can look plastic-like. About the only thing I
have used it on recently is a hardwood bar top. Yup, it looks like plastic. However I have used MinWax wipe on poly and it does a pretty good job of simulating oil. Others have said that the Watco wipe-on is even better but I have not used it yet. It does provide similar iridescence (for lack of a better word) as oil, in that the grain changes its character as light and your perspective changes. I apply it in a similar manner as oil by flooding the first coat and letting it soak. Then wiping off excess. However subsequent coats are done lightly allowing the finsh to build slowly. A durable top such as a table will require several coats. I have built some tops to 7-8 coats because the product is very thin. Use the usual process for light sanding that you would for Danish or other finishes. Probably sounds silly but I often burnish the final coat or two with a piece of brown grocery bag (probably equivalent to about 600 to 800 grit paper and always available in the pantry). The good news is you can usually sand and overcoat on 2 to 4 hour intervals depending on temp and humidity |
#11
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DarylRos wrote:
Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. BRBR Urethane is not varnish. Not even all varnishes are alike. What do you need vrnish for? If it;s for exterior or waterproof use, get a marine spar varnish. If not, then you can probably use Waterlox instead. It wipes on, self levels and barely needs any sanding. urethane has no flexibility at all, so it can crack. I almost never use it. Polyurethane can have a great deal of flexibility. It all depends on what you buy. "Polyurethane" covers a quite broad range of materials. -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#12
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"JMWEBER987" writes: Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. Forget it, they don't have a clue what varnish is. If you truly need varnish, shop at marine chandeleries such as Jamestown Distributors. Don't be shocked at the price. HTH Lew |
#13
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On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 03:11:53 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote: Forget it, they don't have a clue what varnish is. So what is it ? |
#14
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"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 03:11:53 GMT, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Forget it, they don't have a clue what varnish is. So what is it ? "ANY" product that is applied to cover a surface. Paint, Shellac, Polyurethane, All Varnishes. Varnish is a generic term. Varnish is not restricted to being oil, or water based. |
#15
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Leon wrote:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 03:11:53 GMT, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Forget it, they don't have a clue what varnish is. So what is it ? "ANY" product that is applied to cover a surface. Paint, Shellac, Polyurethane, All Varnishes. Varnish is a generic term. Varnish is not restricted to being oil, or water based. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, varnish is "Resinous matter dissolved in some liquid and used for spreading over a surface in order to give this a hard, shining, transparent coat, by which it is made more durable or ornamental". Now what's your source for the claim that paint is varnish? It fails the transparency test. If one wants to be pedantic then 100% solids transparent urethane would also not be "varnish" because it's not dissolved in anything, it's all "resinous matter". -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#16
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"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... According to the Oxford English Dictionary, varnish is "Resinous matter dissolved in some liquid and used for spreading over a surface in order to give this a hard, shining, transparent coat, by which it is made more durable or ornamental". Now what's your source for the claim that paint is varnish? It fails the transparency test. If one wants to be pedantic then 100% solids transparent urethane would also not be "varnish" because it's not dissolved in anything, it's all "resinous matter". The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition var·nish (vär'nÄ*sh) n. 1.. A paint containing a solvent and an oxidizing or evaporating binder, used to coat a surface with a hard, glossy, transparent film. 2.. The smooth coating or gloss resulting from the application of this paint. |
#17
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JMWEBER987 wrote:
Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas There are polyurethane-based varnishes and there are varnishes with other bases and there are polyurethane-based coatings that are not varnishes. All varnish is not polyurethane and all polyurethane is not varnish. Whether a polyurethane varnish is suited to your purpose depends on your purpose. -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#18
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"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... JMWEBER987 wrote: There are polyurethane-based varnishes and there are varnishes with other bases and there are polyurethane-based coatings that are not varnishes. All varnish is not polyurethane True. Shellac and Paint are "Varnishes". and all polyurethane is not varnish. False. Unless you are relating to something like Polyurethane Glue. Varnish is a generic term for anything that is used for the protection or decoration of surfaces and may be transparent, translucent, or tinted. |
#19
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Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... JMWEBER987 wrote: There are polyurethane-based varnishes and there are varnishes with other bases and there are polyurethane-based coatings that are not varnishes. All varnish is not polyurethane True. Shellac and Paint are "Varnishes". and all polyurethane is not varnish. False. Unless you are relating to something like Polyurethane Glue. Now let's see, I guess that Imron, Awlgrip, and Irathane are all varnishes. I guess that the 3M 8561 Transparent Film that we used to use to protect the heaters on the DHC-7 was a varnish. Varnish is a generic term for anything that is used for the protection or decoration of surfaces and may be transparent, translucent, or tinted. I see. So the piece of lucite I have covering my desktop is varnish? After all it's used for protection of a surface and is transparent. Polyurethane refers to large family of plastics with varied properties and uses. While it is used for transparent coatings, that is only one minor use to which it is put. Take a look at http://www.irproducts.com/ for a wide range of polurethane products most of which are not adhesives or surface coatings. -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#20
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"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... Now let's see, I guess that Imron, Awlgrip, and Irathane are all varnishes. I guess that the 3M 8561 Transparent Film that we used to use to protect the heaters on the DHC-7 was a varnish. Ok, Now you are assuming that all paints are opaque. |
#21
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FWIW, "Varnish" is generic term. Look it up in a dictionary.
Paint, Polyurethane, Shellac, and other top coatings are Varnishes. They can be oil, alcohol, or water based. varnish, homogeneous solution of gum or of natural or synthetic resins in oil (oil varnish) or in a volatile solvent (spirit varnish), which dries on exposure to air, forming a thin, hard, usually glossy film. It is used for the protection or decoration of surfaces and may be transparent, translucent, or tinted. For oil varnishes a hard gum or resin, often a fossilized plant exudation such as kauri or copal, is dissolved in oil (commonly linseed oil or tung oil) and is diluted with a volatile solvent such as turpentine. Spirit varnishes are commonly made of soft resins or gums, such as shellac, dammer, mastic, or sandarac, dissolved in a volatile solvent, e.g., alcohol, benzene, acetone, or turpentine. Enamel is varnish with added pigments. Lacquer may be a cellulose derivative dissolved in a volatile solvent, or it may be a natural varnish made in the East from the sap of trees. Among the varnishes named either for their constituents or for the proposed use are japanner's gold size, cabinet, carriage, bookbinder's, patent-leather, insulating, photographic, shellac, and copal picture varnish. Varnish has been known from antiquity; the Egyptians coated mummy cases with a pastelike form made of soft resins dissolved in oil and applied when warm. Another early use was for coating oil paintings. Stradivarius and other violinmakers used a slow-drying linseed oil varnish on their instruments.varnish, homogeneous solution of gum or of natural or synthetic resins in oil (oil varnish) or in a volatile solvent (spirit varnish), which dries on exposure to air, forming a thin, hard, usually glossy film. It is used for the protection or decoration of surfaces and may be transparent, translucent, or tinted. For oil varnishes a hard gum or resin, often a fossilized plant exudation such as kauri or copal, is dissolved in oil (commonly linseed oil or tung oil) and is diluted with a volatile solvent such as turpentine. Spirit varnishes are commonly made of soft resins or gums, such as shellac, dammer, mastic, or sandarac, dissolved in a volatile solvent, e.g., alcohol, benzene, acetone, or turpentine. Enamel is varnish with added pigments. Lacquer may be a cellulose derivative dissolved in a volatile solvent, or it may be a natural varnish made in the East from the sap of trees. Among the varnishes named either for their constituents or for the proposed use are japanner's gold size, cabinet, carriage, bookbinder's, patent-leather, insulating, photographic, shellac, and copal picture varnish. Varnish has been known from antiquity; the Egyptians coated mummy cases with a pastelike form made of soft resins dissolved in oil and applied when warm. Another early use was for coating oil paintings. Stradivarius and other violinmakers used a slow-drying linseed oil varnish on their instruments. "JMWEBER987" wrote in message ... Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas |
#22
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On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 15:46:27 GMT, "Leon"
wrote: Look it up in a dictionary. Why ? When did dictionaries become an authority on technical terms? Even if you ask the OWLs themselves they don't claim to be the creators of language, only it's documentors. When you get to technical or craft terminology, dictionaries produced by general lexicographers are often carefully accurate over their source citations, but vague or downright wrong over meanings. For oil varnishes a hard gum or resin, often a fossilized plant exudation such as kauri or copal, is dissolved in oil (commonly linseed oil or tung oil) and is diluted with a volatile solvent such as turpentine. Well that's the description of someone who's never tried it. Have you ever made copal dissolve in oil ? -- Smert' spamionam |
#23
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"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 15:46:27 GMT, "Leon" wrote: Look it up in a dictionary. Why ? When did dictionaries become an authority on technical terms? Even if you ask the OWLs themselves they don't claim to be the creators of language, only it's documentors. When you get to technical or craft terminology, dictionaries produced by general lexicographers are often carefully accurate over their source citations, but vague or downright wrong over meanings. My original knowledge of this came from my brother in law. He checked his "Artist Encyclopedia" and learnd this definition. This large dictionary looking book deals mainly with making your own paints. |
#24
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Leon wrote:
FWIW, "Varnish" is generic term. Look it up in a dictionary. I did. The Oxford. It excludes paint, and if one is being pedantic it excludes polyesters, epoxies, and some urethanes. Paint, Polyurethane, Shellac, and other top coatings are Varnishes. They can be oil, alcohol, or water based. varnish, homogeneous solution of gum or of natural or synthetic resins in oil (oil varnish) or in a volatile solvent (spirit varnish), which dries on exposure to air, forming a thin, hard, usually glossy film. So how about if it's a liquid that cures solid without ever being dissolved in anything? It is used for the protection or decoration of surfaces and may be transparent, translucent, or tinted. For oil varnishes a hard gum or resin, often a fossilized plant exudation such as kauri or copal, is dissolved in oil (commonly linseed oil or tung oil) and is diluted with a volatile solvent such as turpentine. Spirit varnishes are commonly made of soft resins or gums, such as shellac, dammer, mastic, or sandarac, dissolved in a volatile solvent, e.g., alcohol, benzene, acetone, or turpentine. Enamel is varnish with added pigments. Lacquer may be a cellulose derivative dissolved in a volatile solvent, or it may be a natural varnish made in the East from the sap of trees. Among the varnishes named either for their constituents or for the proposed use are japanner's gold size, cabinet, carriage, bookbinder's, patent-leather, insulating, photographic, shellac, and copal picture varnish. Varnish has been known from antiquity; the Egyptians coated mummy cases with a pastelike form made of soft resins dissolved in oil and applied when warm. Another early use was for coating oil paintings. Stradivarius and other violinmakers used a slow-drying linseed oil varnish on their instruments.varnish, homogeneous solution of gum or of natural or synthetic resins in oil (oil varnish) or in a volatile solvent (spirit varnish), which dries on exposure to air, forming a thin, hard, usually glossy film. It is used for the protection or decoration of surfaces and may be transparent, translucent, or tinted. For oil varnishes a hard gum or resin, often a fossilized plant exudation such as kauri or copal, is dissolved in oil (commonly linseed oil or tung oil) and is diluted with a volatile solvent such as turpentine. Spirit varnishes are commonly made of soft resins or gums, such as shellac, dammer, mastic, or sandarac, dissolved in a volatile solvent, e.g., alcohol, benzene, acetone, or turpentine. Enamel is varnish with added pigments. Lacquer may be a cellulose derivative dissolved in a volatile solvent, or it may be a natural varnish made in the East from the sap of trees. Among the varnishes named either for their constituents or for the proposed use are japanner's gold size, cabinet, carriage, bookbinder's, patent-leather, insulating, photographic, shellac, and copal picture varnish. Varnish has been known from antiquity; the Egyptians coated mummy cases with a pastelike form made of soft resins dissolved in oil and applied when warm. Another early use was for coating oil paintings. Stradivarius and other violinmakers used a slow-drying linseed oil varnish on their instruments. "JMWEBER987" wrote in message ... Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#25
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On 01 Dec 2004 02:54:32 GMT, JMWEBER987 wrote:
Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor (sp) book "Understanding Wood Finishing." He cuts through a lot of the hype, black magic, and pure BS of wood finishing. "Varnish" is synthetic resin in an oil-based carrier. It was a substitute for Shellac, which is subject to the uncertainty of shipping from India--much less of a concern now than in earlier times. Polyurethane is the most common type of resin used in the varnishes in Big Box stores. Any film finish built up thick enough is going to look and feel like "plastic" because it essentially IS plastic. We get "plastic" look and feel from Poly partly because the brushed on product "Meets VOC Standards" by being (imo) too thick in the can and needing a bit of thinning--and partly--heck probably mostly-- 'cuz it's the first finish most of us attempt and we use it to cover up our mistakes . . Disclaimer: I am NOT a coatings chemist, nor do I play one on Television. Moreover, I've never used a finish more complicated than brushed shellac. |
#26
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In article WTlrd.3315$zK1.1102@trndny05, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles"
"Charles says... On 01 Dec 2004 02:54:32 GMT, JMWEBER987 wrote: Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas Get yourself a copy of Bob Flexnor (sp) book "Understanding Wood Finishing." He cuts through a lot of the hype, black magic, and pure BS of wood finishing. "Varnish" is synthetic resin in an oil-based carrier. It was a substitute for Shellac, which is subject to the uncertainty of shipping from India--much less of a concern now than in earlier times. Polyurethane is the most common type of resin used in the varnishes in Big Box stores. Any film finish built up thick enough is going to look and feel like "plastic" because it essentially IS plastic. We get "plastic" look and feel from Poly partly because the brushed on product "Meets VOC Standards" by being (imo) too thick in the can and needing a bit of thinning--and partly--heck probably mostly-- 'cuz it's the first finish most of us attempt and we use it to cover up our mistakes . . Disclaimer: I am NOT a coatings chemist, nor do I play one on Television. Moreover, I've never used a finish more complicated than brushed shellac. A very good summary in all but one point. The resin need not be synthetic. There are still some makers out there that use natural resins such as rosin and amber. Tried and True finishes is one example. -- MikeG Heirloom Woods www.heirloom-woods.net |
#27
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On 01 Dec 2004 02:54:32 GMT, (JMWEBER987) spake the
words: Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff If you swear by Microsoft, buy ALL the brands the TV commercials tell you to buy, and spray paint on your head to cover your bald spot, go for it. You obviously won't know the difference. ;( The reason I'm so down on poly is that very few people can put on a urethane finish without making it look like the piece was wrapped in Saran and they're prone to miniscule bubbles which make it look even worse. Abused, it's a cheesy finish which is hell to repair. The wipe-on polys are better, a step in the right direction, IMHO. Otherwise, use a non-urethane varnish which won't have to be stripped with the most caustic aircraft paint remover known to man. or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas Yes, or Russ at http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com/Varnishes.htm Yes, Watco (very small amount of varnish), Waterlox (tung oil + more varnish), and Tried & True varnish-oil are all great varnish-based finishes. I've always loved varnish above all other finishes, despite its longer drying time, though I haven't found a straight poly-free varnish recently. I stopped looking when I found Waterlox. Since I don't do glossy finishes (rubbing the gloss down to satin with 0000 steel wool and paste wax once it's dry), I don't have to worry about slower-drying varnish gathering dust as much as gloss lovers do. ------------------------------------------------------------- give me The Luxuries Of Life * http://www.diversify.com i can live without the necessities * 2 Tee collections online ------------------------------------------------------------- |
#28
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Larry Jaques wrote:
On 01 Dec 2004 02:54:32 GMT, (JMWEBER987) spake the words: Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff If you swear by Microsoft, buy ALL the brands the TV commercials tell you to buy, and spray paint on your head to cover your bald spot, go for it. You obviously won't know the difference. ;( The reason I'm so down on poly is that very few people can put on a urethane finish without making it look like the piece was wrapped in Saran and they're prone to miniscule bubbles which make it look even worse. Abused, it's a cheesy finish which is hell to repair. The wipe-on polys are better, a step in the right direction, IMHO. Otherwise, use a non-urethane varnish which won't have to be stripped with the most caustic aircraft paint remover known to man. Uh, there are paint removers that will remove cured polyurethane from epoxy without damaging the epoxy. The ones that remove the epoxy too are "the most caustic aircraft paint removers known to man". or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas Yes, or Russ at http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com/Varnishes.htm Yes, Watco (very small amount of varnish), Waterlox (tung oil + more varnish), and Tried & True varnish-oil are all great varnish-based finishes. I've always loved varnish above all other finishes, despite its longer drying time, though I haven't found a straight poly-free varnish recently. I stopped looking when I found Waterlox. Since I don't do glossy finishes (rubbing the gloss down to satin with 0000 steel wool and paste wax once it's dry), I don't have to worry about slower-drying varnish gathering dust as much as gloss lovers do. ------------------------------------------------------------- give me The Luxuries Of Life * http://www.diversify.com i can live without the necessities * 2 Tee collections online ------------------------------------------------------------- -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#29
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In article , jmweber987
@aol.com says... Off to the Orange Borg I go to buy some varnish and naptha to thin it with for use as a wipe on. No cans marked varnish but lots of cans labeled Urethane. Hummmm. So off to the Non-Orange Borg to see what they have. Ha, a can of varnish. Read the back and it says 100% urethane. So I'm now assuming varnish and urethane are the same thing and poly-urethane is something else altogether. Right?? Wrong??. The brands were Olympic or Minwax. Okay to use this stuff or would I be better off buying something online like Watco or the like from one of the finishing places like homestead? Mike in Arkansas If you accept the current generic definition of varnish, a surface finish of oil, carrier/thinner, resin, polyurethane and urethane are varnishes. The only difference being the type of resin used and the hype the advertisement people give it. If you want to get picky about it and throw in archaic definitions the whole mess can get quite complex. My take is that, for almost all practical purposes, it matters little which octane varnish is used. Of course my take is also to avoid varnish whenever possible and practical. You also will find spar/marine varnish. This is a long oil varnish, a higher ration of oil to resin making for a more flexible finish that can better accommodate the movement of wood in an outdoor environment. However it is still a surface finish made up of an oil, carrier/thinner, resin. Hope it helps -- MikeG Heirloom Woods www.heirloom-woods.net |
#30
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However it is still a surface finish made up of an oil, carrier/thinner,
resin. Hope it helps -- MikeG All of this has helped but OP now has a headache. I think I will drive to Tulsa (90 miles) this weekend and visit the Woodcraft store for some recommended finishes. Mike in Arkansas |
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