I read the earlier thread with interest, then recalled another thread where
a statement was made about the SawStop unit. Someone believed that
eventually the insurance companies might force manufacturers to fit Sawstop
to their machines.

After reading the splitter thread, the sawstop/insurer idea just doesn't
seem to have a hope.

As a few of you know, I recently received my saw from TW. The riving knife
raises and lowers with the blade, the knife remains below the blade until
more than 2" of blade is exposed, if I need to cut 4" in one go I can adjust
it with an allen key to slide back. Other than that, it stays well out the
way and I can't think of a good reason to remove it. I can even dado with it
attached (up to a 2" anyway).

The engineering is very simple and the knife is replaceable with various
thickness blades. I think you guys may be getting short changed on some
(seemingly simple) safety features, but I am not sure why. Anyone interested
in detailed photos let me know and I'll try to get some over the weekend for
you.

--

Greg

Greg Millen wrote:

The engineering is very simple and the knife is replaceable with
various thickness blades. I think you guys may be getting short
changed on some (seemingly simple) safety features, but I am not sure
why. Anyone interested in detailed photos let me know and I'll try to
get some over the weekend for you.

I'm interested. Thanks.

-- Mark

This sounds like a great setup. What would you say the total cost is?
Who's the mfg? Oh yeah, I'd like to see some pics too. Thanks.

NoOne

"Greg Millen" wrote in message
news:1101118194.SrOpwWxSnlCQPE6jYtehig@teranews...

The engineering is very simple and the knife is replaceable with various
thickness blades. I think you guys may be getting short changed on some
(seemingly simple) safety features, but I am not sure why. Anyone
interested
in detailed photos let me know and I'll try to get some over the weekend
for
you.


I'm interested. Let us know when you post them.
--

-Mike-

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 15:11:12 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

Greg Millen wrote:

The engineering is very simple and the knife is replaceable with
various thickness blades. I think you guys may be getting short
changed on some (seemingly simple) safety features, but I am not sure
why. Anyone interested in detailed photos let me know and I'll try to
get some over the weekend for you.

I'm interested. Thanks.

-- Mark

Same here.
TWS

I am interested also
"TWS" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 15:11:12 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

Greg Millen wrote:

The engineering is very simple and the knife is replaceable with
various thickness blades. I think you guys may be getting short
changed on some (seemingly simple) safety features, but I am not sure
why. Anyone interested in detailed photos let me know and I'll try to
get some over the weekend for you.

I'm interested. Thanks.

-- Mark

Same here.
TWS

"Greg Millen" wrote in message
news:1101118194.SrOpwWxSnlCQPE6jYtehig@teranews...

(seemingly simple) safety features, but I am not sure why. Anyone
interested
in detailed photos let me know and I'll try to get some over the weekend
for
you.

s.e.g.
No! I'ma "pro" and I don't use them!
/s.e.g.

"Greg Millen" wrote in message
news:1101118194.SrOpwWxSnlCQPE6jYtehig@teranews...

As a few of you know, I recently received my saw from TW. The riving knife
raises and lowers with the blade, the knife remains below the blade until
more than 2" of blade is exposed, if I need to cut 4" in one go I can
adjust
it with an allen key to slide back. Other than that, it stays well out the
way and I can't think of a good reason to remove it. I can even dado with
it
attached (up to a 2" anyway).

Greg, aren't you talking about a factory setup, rather than an add-on or
shop built accessory?

Bob

"Bob" wrote in message
Greg, aren't you talking about a factory setup, rather than an add-on or
shop built accessory?


Yes I am Bob. In fact, I have just finished the movie and pic files of the
setup and will post them in a few minutes.

cheers,

Groggy

I looked at the photos and am now trying to download the movie (looks very
large). I must be missing some of this thread. Greg. what brand of
tablesaw are we looking at? That is QUITE a riving knife. What does it do
for a blade guard?

"Eric Anderson" wrote in message
...

Unless someone comes up with a good idea here (or the photos give me a
good
idea), I am just going to do with my new saw what I have in the past. I
am
going to build a series of zero clearance inserts that incorporate a
splitter in them since it looks like a riving knife is going to be a LONG
time coming!

Change LONG time to NEVER. Unless we want to purchase a European saw or pay
the piper for expensive custom machining, we are all stuck with ZCI home
based solution (not bad actually).

Bob

Very interesting. It took a very long time to download the movie (holy
smoke, how big are these files?) The one showing the blade being lowered
and raised confirms that it could be done on an American saw just hooked to
the blade arm in some way. The riving knife tilts back because it is
attached to the arm that pivots on the same axis as any american saw blade.
In the thread I was working in Fine Woodworking, it was pointed out that the
European saws are on ways and the riving knife comes up straight. Actually
in viewing your video, it would appear that being on the same arm as an
American pivoting blade might be considered an advantage since the riving
knife covers a larger percentage of the blade when it is more exposed --
when IT COUNTS. Again, what is that saw? And please spell it out!

"Bob" wrote in message
news

"Eric Anderson" wrote in message
...

Unless someone comes up with a good idea here (or the photos give me a
good
idea), I am just going to do with my new saw what I have in the past. I
am
going to build a series of zero clearance inserts that incorporate a
splitter in them since it looks like a riving knife is going to be a
LONG
time coming!

Change LONG time to NEVER. Unless we want to purchase a European saw or
pay
the piper for expensive custom machining, we are all stuck with ZCI home
based solution (not bad actually).

Bob



So, why do you say that Bob? I didn't download the movie because I'm stuck
with dialup service and that would be painful, but from what I see in the
pics on the website it looks to be very doable on any typical saw. I could
see it on my Craftsman Model 100 very easily. Sure, it'd take a little bit
of work, but not a lot. Unless I'm missing something here. Strikes me that
one would simply build it to ride on the arbor. I'll have to clear the top
of my saw off later in the day and take another look inside to see if there
would be any reason that wouldn't work or if there might be a better way.

I'm more curious how stable that knife is. It looks like a pretty
substantial piece of steel, but it also looks like it will allow a pretty
good amount of sideways flex if pressure is applied. It has to be limited
to 3/16in steel in order to fit in the kerf and it just seems to me that the
4 inches or so that protrude would have enough flex to be problemsome.
Maybe not. Eric - I'm looking for your feedback. If it takes a whack, do
you have to re-adjust it? How much of a whack has yours taken and still
keep tickin'?
--

-Mike-

Guess we need to ask Greg about how well the riving knife takes a whack. It
does look like it would have to have some good temper the way it is shaped.
If it yielded at all, it would be more of a pain than a benefit. I would
guess it would HAVE to have the ability to bend quite a lot and return to
its original position.


"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Bob" wrote in message
news

"Eric Anderson" wrote in message
...

Unless someone comes up with a good idea here (or the photos give me a
good
idea), I am just going to do with my new saw what I have in the past.
I
am
going to build a series of zero clearance inserts that incorporate a
splitter in them since it looks like a riving knife is going to be a
LONG
time coming!

Change LONG time to NEVER. Unless we want to purchase a European saw or
pay
the piper for expensive custom machining, we are all stuck with ZCI home
based solution (not bad actually).

Bob



So, why do you say that Bob? I didn't download the movie because I'm
stuck
with dialup service and that would be painful, but from what I see in the
pics on the website it looks to be very doable on any typical saw. I
could
see it on my Craftsman Model 100 very easily. Sure, it'd take a little
bit
of work, but not a lot. Unless I'm missing something here. Strikes me
that
one would simply build it to ride on the arbor. I'll have to clear the
top
of my saw off later in the day and take another look inside to see if
there
would be any reason that wouldn't work or if there might be a better way.

I'm more curious how stable that knife is. It looks like a pretty
substantial piece of steel, but it also looks like it will allow a pretty
good amount of sideways flex if pressure is applied. It has to be limited
to 3/16in steel in order to fit in the kerf and it just seems to me that
the
4 inches or so that protrude would have enough flex to be problemsome.
Maybe not. Eric - I'm looking for your feedback. If it takes a whack, do
you have to re-adjust it? How much of a whack has yours taken and still
keep tickin'?
--

-Mike-

I must apologise for the size of the movies - I have no idea how to make
them smaller but run the same time.

To answer your questions, the saw is Taiwanese:

http://www.europac.com.tw/01_Woodworking_Machinery/Sawing_Machines/Tilting_Arbor_Saw/03_tilting_arbor_saw.htm

gives details. It is rebadged by a large number of retailers here in Oz and
they are VERY solid machines. (check the weight vs Unisaw for an idea)

The blade guard is a Suva guard, the yellow box object that is overhead the
blade. It has a built in 3" dust collector. Pic:

http://woodworking.homeip.net/wood/b...Saw-15_JPG.htm

Hope it helps,

Greg


"Eric Anderson" wrote in message
...
I looked at the photos and am now trying to download the movie (looks very
large). I must be missing some of this thread. Greg. what brand of
tablesaw are we looking at? That is QUITE a riving knife. What does it
do
for a blade guard?

"Eric Anderson" wrote in message ...
Guess we need to ask Greg about how well the riving knife takes a whack.
It
does look like it would have to have some good temper the way it is
shaped.
If it yielded at all, it would be more of a pain than a benefit. I would
guess it would HAVE to have the ability to bend quite a lot and return to
its original position.


The knife is very solid and will bend sideways. It will not bend back away
from the blade due to its shape. It would be easy and cheap to make your own
blade too, it's just a curved bit of steel with some holes after all.

--

Greg

Greg,

Can you photograph or somehow describe the area around the arbor where
the riving knife attaches on your saw?

"Greg Millen" wrote in message ...
"Eric Anderson" wrote in message ...
Guess we need to ask Greg about how well the riving knife takes a whack.
It
does look like it would have to have some good temper the way it is
shaped.
If it yielded at all, it would be more of a pain than a benefit. I would
guess it would HAVE to have the ability to bend quite a lot and return to
its original position.


The knife is very solid and will bend sideways. It will not bend back away
from the blade due to its shape. It would be easy and cheap to make your own
blade too, it's just a curved bit of steel with some holes after all.

Np, I'll see what I can come up with.

Greg

"Eric Anderson" wrote in message
om...
Greg,

Can you photograph or somehow describe the area around the arbor where
the riving knife attaches on your saw?