I've got a 9" Craftsman bandsaw. Apparently Sears was phasing it
out or something, not sure just what.and it was priced at about $35,
new, in the box. Few days later they had the shelves stocked with an
almost identical model, going for about $175.

For various reasons I don't use it much, altho it runs well enough,
and the blade cuts smooth. However, I'm not having a lot of luck with
cutting, can't make a straight cut for mor than about 3 inches, then it
starts wandering. It's a 1/4" blade.

I'm thinking I'll do a bit better with a wider blade. The specs
say it'll take up to a 3/8" wide blade.

I'm wondering if I could move up to a 1/2" blade, rather than a
3/8", with no problems, or should I just stick with the 3/8"? The
tires are wider than 1/2', and I can't seen anyplace it didn't look like
a 1/2" blade wouldn't work.

I'm not interested in making any curved cuts, intentionally or not,
I'd rather use my Craftsman scroll saw for it. (Same type of price, and
situation, with the scroll saw. Around $35, for a nice 16" variable
speed, new in the box. The Woodworking Gods look out for me at times).
All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Thanks.



JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.

I think it has more to do with how much tension the machine can apply to the
blade.
Wider blades require more tension to stop them twisting. Usually the largest
listed blade (i.e. 3/8) is the max it will be able to tension correctly.
Perhaps you don't have enough tension on that 1/4" blade? Or your guides may
need adjusting. The bandsaw is the toughest machine in my shop to tune up
and havie running well :-(
--
Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 60 woodworking product reviews online!
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On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 03:11:08 -0500, (J T)
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

As was said, tension may be a problem with the present blade.

So check tension, and check for properly adjusted guides.

Don't push the wood too hard. This will also cause the blade to
wander.

Many blades, especially the crap that comes with the machine, have an
"off" "set" with the teeth set more to one side than the other. So if
you try to work using a mitre unit or a fence, you will get the
trouble you are describing. I ok a long time to learn that and it was
very frustrating for me. I just kept on assuming it was old ham-fist
at work again! G

What you need to do is draw a dead straight line along a nice straight
piece of wood, say 2' long. Then cut along it freehand, dead straight
along that line. When you have cut 6-7" dead straight without hassle,
then you need to leave the piece of wood _exactly_ where it is, turn
off the saw, and find the angle from dead right angles or dead
parallel to the mitre slot that the wood sits. You then have to allow
for this in setting your fence or mitre unit. You may need to fine
adjust, and the blade's set may well alter over time, again especially
with the crap that comes with the saw.

Or you can simply adjust the mitre/fence bit by bit until the trouble
goes away, using scrap wood.

I would not recommend getting wider blades than recommended for the
saw. Wider blades are also often thicker, so you need even MORE
tension, and also they start not liking going round the small wheels.

Actually IIRC Mark Duginske (the Bandsaw Guru) says that wider blades
can be _harder_ to handle, because they force you to go with them
more.

I've got a 9" Craftsman bandsaw. Apparently Sears was phasing it
out or something, not sure just what.and it was priced at about $35,
new, in the box. Few days later they had the shelves stocked with an
almost identical model, going for about $175.

For various reasons I don't use it much, altho it runs well enough,
and the blade cuts smooth. However, I'm not having a lot of luck with
cutting, can't make a straight cut for mor than about 3 inches, then it
starts wandering. It's a 1/4" blade.

I'm thinking I'll do a bit better with a wider blade. The specs
say it'll take up to a 3/8" wide blade.

I'm wondering if I could move up to a 1/2" blade, rather than a
3/8", with no problems, or should I just stick with the 3/8"? The
tires are wider than 1/2', and I can't seen anyplace it didn't look like
a 1/2" blade wouldn't work.

I'm not interested in making any curved cuts, intentionally or not,
I'd rather use my Craftsman scroll saw for it. (Same type of price, and
situation, with the scroll saw. Around $35, for a nice 16" variable
speed, new in the box. The Woodworking Gods look out for me at times).
All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Thanks.



JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.

************************************************** ***
Dogs are better than people.

People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 03:11:08 -0500, (J T)
wrote:

I've got a 9" Craftsman bandsaw. Apparently Sears was phasing it
out or something, not sure just what.and it was priced at about $35,
new, in the box. Few days later they had the shelves stocked with an
almost identical model, going for about $175.

For various reasons I don't use it much, altho it runs well enough,
and the blade cuts smooth. However, I'm not having a lot of luck with
cutting, can't make a straight cut for mor than about 3 inches, then it
starts wandering. It's a 1/4" blade.

I'm thinking I'll do a bit better with a wider blade. The specs
say it'll take up to a 3/8" wide blade.

I'm wondering if I could move up to a 1/2" blade, rather than a
3/8", with no problems, or should I just stick with the 3/8"? The
tires are wider than 1/2', and I can't seen anyplace it didn't look like
a 1/2" blade wouldn't work.

I'm not interested in making any curved cuts, intentionally or not,
I'd rather use my Craftsman scroll saw for it. (Same type of price, and
situation, with the scroll saw. Around $35, for a nice 16" variable
speed, new in the box. The Woodworking Gods look out for me at times).
All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Thanks.



JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.

All bandsaws tend to cut at an angle and this is especially true of
the small, cheap ones. The trick is to find the angle and adjust your
cut accordingly. Most of them are pretty consistent about it.

I don't think you can get a 1/2 blade for a 9" saw. However you're on
the right track. Wider blades tend to cut straighter.

--RC (the 'proud' owner of a 9" Delta)


Sleep? Isn't that a totally inadequate substitute for caffine?

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 03:11:08 -0500, (J T)
wrote:

I'm wondering if I could move up to a 1/2" blade, rather than a
3/8", with no problems, or should I just stick with the 3/8"?

You could probably run it, and it would probably work even worse. It's
not blade size that makes them stable, it's the tension per
cross-section area of the blade. A small saw is probably light on
total tension, so it works better if you can concentrate what you do
have into a smaller blade. It's not surprising if it actually works
better with a 1/4" blade than a 3/8".

All bandsaws have some "drift" too. This is a tendency to cut off
square, but it's repeatable (at least for that blade, with those setup
adjustments). You don't try to fix it, you set the fence to match it.
Try running it with the guides open and cutting some corrugated
cardboard. Let the saw cut "straight" as it wants to, then see how
square the line you made was to the original fence position. Then
repeat the experiment with the guides adjusted. Don't try to force
the blade into tracking "straight" with the guides, if the wheels are
happily leading it along a different angle. Stable is better than
square. If your fence isn't drift adjustable, take it apart and do
stuff with washers and shims until it is.

Try to find Duginske's or Lonnie Bird's bandsaw books. Just reading
the section on choosing the right blade teeth is worth it.

You can play with the guides too. Red plastic isn't too bad, but hard
steel pins are. Either fit some CoolBlocks or saw up a few sets of
your own from hard maple (hey, you can cut them on the bandsaw!) and
soak them in oil for a day or two.

--
Smert' spamionam

"J T" wrote in message

All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Actually, tension is one of the last things I'd look at. How does it track?

Spend some time getting a new 3/8" or 1/2" blade to track in the middle of
the wheels. once you've got that whipped, then go on to other things like
properly setting the guides, etc.

IME, and apparently contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a world of
tension to get a good, straight cut on a well setup band saw.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 07:40:00 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:

"J T" wrote in message

All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Actually, tension is one of the last things I'd look at. How does it track?

Spend some time getting a new 3/8" or 1/2" blade to track in the middle of
the wheels. once you've got that whipped, then go on to other things like
properly setting the guides, etc.

IME, and apparently contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a world of
tension to get a good, straight cut on a well setup band saw.
Last month's FWW had an article that claimed that the drift can be
compensated and canceled by the tracking adjustment. I haven't had a
chance to try this technique yet but it sounds like this jives with
your experience.

TWS

The folks at Suffolk recommend "gettin just past the flutter"
on their Timberwolf blades. This is hardly tight.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

Which agrees with your method.

The recent article in FWW on bandsaw tuning also seems
to follow the same logic.


Swingman wrote:
"J T" wrote in message


All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.


Actually, tension is one of the last things I'd look at. How does it track?

Spend some time getting a new 3/8" or 1/2" blade to track in the middle of
the wheels. once you've got that whipped, then go on to other things like
properly setting the guides, etc.

IME, and apparently contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a world of
tension to get a good, straight cut on a well setup band saw.

Thanks for that link. Lots of info. One tip Iwill try on my benchtop
bandsaw is applying a light coat of Pam veg oil on the blade.

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
The folks at Suffolk recommend "gettin just past the flutter"
on their Timberwolf blades. This is hardly tight.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

Which agrees with your method.

The recent article in FWW on bandsaw tuning also seems
to follow the same logic.


Swingman wrote:
"J T" wrote in message


All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.


Actually, tension is one of the last things I'd look at. How does it
track?

Spend some time getting a new 3/8" or 1/2" blade to track in the middle
of
the wheels. once you've got that whipped, then go on to other things
like
properly setting the guides, etc.

IME, and apparently contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a world
of
tension to get a good, straight cut on a well setup band saw.

"J T" wrote in message
...


I've got a 9" Craftsman bandsaw. Apparently Sears was phasing it

I had the Delta 9" (now known as the BS100).

For various reasons I don't use it much, altho it runs well enough,
and the blade cuts smooth. However, I'm not having a lot of luck with
cutting, can't make a straight cut for mor than about 3 inches, then it
starts wandering. It's a 1/4" blade.

So did the Delta until I spent a few minutes carefully adjusting everything,
tracking, guides, etc.
I also had best results when I "over tensioned" the blade, "over" according
to the manual.

I'm wondering if I could move up to a 1/2" blade, rather than a
3/8", with no problems, or should I just stick with the 3/8"? The

I couldn't find a blade that big on the shelves and didn't think the poor
thing would tension it properly if I had one custom made. It appears that
the ability to properly tension a blade is an important factor in
tensioning.

Personally, I'd stick with the 3/8" as the biggest and see if I could tune
it into producing acceptable results first

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 07:40:00 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:

"J T" wrote in message

All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Actually, tension is one of the last things I'd look at. How does it track?

Spend some time getting a new 3/8" or 1/2" blade to track in the middle of
the wheels. once you've got that whipped, then go on to other things like
properly setting the guides, etc.

IME, and apparently contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a world of
tension to get a good, straight cut on a well setup band saw.

Yeah, but we're talking small -- ah, 'value priced' -- items here. In
my experience tension makes a big difference on these saws and the
more the better.

--RC


Sleep? Isn't that a totally inadequate substitute for caffine?

"Swingman" wrote in
:

"J T" wrote in message

All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a
foot, max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing
later on.

Actually, tension is one of the last things I'd look at. How does it
track?

Spend some time getting a new 3/8" or 1/2" blade to track in the
middle of the wheels. once you've got that whipped, then go on to
other things like properly setting the guides, etc.

IME, and apparently contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a
world of tension to get a good, straight cut on a well setup band saw.

If this is a 3-wheel saw, which seems likely from the source and
the price, then by definition it's not a "well setup bandsaw".

More to the point, it's a tiny saw, it's probably never going to
do well with a 1/2" blade. All the tension in world doesn't help
when the top of the blade is being pushed into the cut faster than
the bottom of it is being pulled out.

I'd suggest Joat work on getting it to track well with a 1/4" blade,
which should be servicable for anything you'd do on that saw (he's
not going to be resawing logs into lumber on it).

John

Yeah, but we're talking small -- ah, 'value priced' -- items here. In
my experience tension makes a big difference on these saws and the
more the better.

The only way to work with some tools is to experiment until you find out
exactly what _does_ work for that particular tool ... and, regardless of
price, the basic mechanical principles are still the same, if not the forces
involved, and it behooves you to at least try the same tried and true
methods that work on the more expensive tools of similar design.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04

"John McCoy" wrote in message
"Swingman" wrote in

"J T" wrote in message

All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a
foot, max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing
later on.

Actually, tension is one of the last things I'd look at. How does it
track?

Spend some time getting a new 3/8" or 1/2" blade to track in the
middle of the wheels. once you've got that whipped, then go on to
other things like properly setting the guides, etc.

IME, and apparently contrary to popular opinion, you don't need a
world of tension to get a good, straight cut on a well setup band saw.

If this is a 3-wheel saw, which seems likely from the source and
the price, then by definition it's not a "well setup bandsaw".

You're assuming that it is a "3-wheel saw". I don't know that Craftsman has
ever had a 9" 3 wheel saw, but they have had at least two, and possibly
more, models of 9", 2 wheel band saws.

More to the point, no saw is likely to come from the factory as a "well
setup bandsaw", or even stay that way though use, and the setup on _any_
tool can be always be improved.

More to the point, it's a tiny saw, it's probably never going to
do well with a 1/2" blade. All the tension in world doesn't help
when the top of the blade is being pushed into the cut faster than
the bottom of it is being pulled out.

Joat did specifically state that the specs say a maximum blade width of 3/8"
.... but he obviously wants to see if he can push the envelope a bit. For the
price it will cost him to try, I'd say it's certainly worth a shot

I'd suggest Joat work on getting it to track well with a 1/4" blade,
which should be servicable for anything you'd do on that saw (he's
not going to be resawing logs into lumber on it).

Sounds like he's already tried that and now wants to be adventurous, not to
mention that everything I stated above is completely independent of size, so
it can't hurt his efforts at seeing what he can make this "tiny saw" do ...
which it appears was his reason for posting .

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04

I forgot to say, it is a 2 wheel saw.

After reading the responses, and reviewing what I've done so far,
I'm thinking I need to get the instructions out again, and spend some
more time on setting it up, than I have in the past. I think I also
need to spend a bit of time and make some hardwood guide blocks. I'll
also try the 1/4" blade, for now, but think I may be ahead getting a
3/8" blade, sometime in the future.

Actually, my previous bandsaw was a 3 wheel Craftsman bandsaw. It
was about worn out when I got it, had to get a new (plastic) drive
wheel, but it worked, and actually would make a straight cut. No power
to speak of tho, and it would bog pretty easily. That's the biggest
reason I got rid of. Otherwise I'd have kept it, and probably still
have it.

The previous blade I had on my present bandsaw, is one I
experimented a bit with, and set the teeth, making a bit wider cut.
That thing cut like a champ, even tho it had a slightly wider kerf, and
cut straight, with no binding. But, it broke. Don't know if that was
from my setting the teeth, or just because it wanted to, it was used
when I set it.

So, like I said, after absorbing all the posts, I think spending
some time with the instructions, and more time setting it up, would seem
to what I need to solve my problems.

Thanks muchly.



JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 17:22:34 -0500, (J T)
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I would definitely look at Mark Duginske's book the Bandsaw Handbook.
It goes way beyond most home-user's requirements, but it's gort all
the right stuff. It's also very inspirational to read a guy who is so
passionate about the bandsaw.

I forgot to say, it is a 2 wheel saw.

After reading the responses, and reviewing what I've done so far,
I'm thinking I need to get the instructions out again, and spend some
more time on setting it up, than I have in the past. I think I also
need to spend a bit of time and make some hardwood guide blocks. I'll
also try the 1/4" blade, for now, but think I may be ahead getting a
3/8" blade, sometime in the future.

************************************************** ***
Dogs are better than people.

People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 03:11:08 -0500, (J T)
wrote:

I've got a 9" Craftsman bandsaw. Apparently Sears was phasing it
out or something, not sure just what.and it was priced at about $35,
new, in the box. Few days later they had the shelves stocked with an
almost identical model, going for about $175.

For various reasons I don't use it much, altho it runs well enough,
and the blade cuts smooth. However, I'm not having a lot of luck with
cutting, can't make a straight cut for mor than about 3 inches, then it
starts wandering. It's a 1/4" blade.

Same problem with my Delta 9" bandsaw. The usual reason for this is
that one side of the blade is duller than the other, but it seems to
be more of a problem with the 1/4" blade than it is with wider blades.

I'm thinking I'll do a bit better with a wider blade. The specs
say it'll take up to a 3/8" wide blade.

3/8" does a pretty good job, as far as it goes.

I'm wondering if I could move up to a 1/2" blade, rather than a
3/8", with no problems, or should I just stick with the 3/8"? The
tires are wider than 1/2', and I can't seen anyplace it didn't look like
a 1/2" blade wouldn't work.

Your guide blocks won't be in the center of the blade. I'm not sure
how much of a difference it would make in your cuts, but it's usually
not a good idea to try to push machines too hard by using bits or
blades that are too large for them.

I'm not interested in making any curved cuts, intentionally or not,
I'd rather use my Craftsman scroll saw for it. (Same type of price, and
situation, with the scroll saw. Around $35, for a nice 16" variable
speed, new in the box. The Woodworking Gods look out for me at times).
All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Only a bit of resawing, of course. Unless you saw has a whole lot
more power than the Delta, 2.5" is about the widest board (using maple
as a benchmark) I've gotten to resaw nicely with a saw that small.
Anything larger really bogs down the motor.

Thanks.



JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 12:28:06 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 03:11:08 -0500, (J T)
wrote:

I've got a 9" Craftsman bandsaw. Apparently Sears was phasing it
out or something, not sure just what.and it was priced at about $35,
new, in the box. Few days later they had the shelves stocked with an
almost identical model, going for about $175.

For various reasons I don't use it much, altho it runs well enough,
and the blade cuts smooth. However, I'm not having a lot of luck with
cutting, can't make a straight cut for mor than about 3 inches, then it
starts wandering. It's a 1/4" blade.

I'm thinking I'll do a bit better with a wider blade. The specs
say it'll take up to a 3/8" wide blade.

I'm wondering if I could move up to a 1/2" blade, rather than a
3/8", with no problems, or should I just stick with the 3/8"? The
tires are wider than 1/2', and I can't seen anyplace it didn't look like
a 1/2" blade wouldn't work.

I'm not interested in making any curved cuts, intentionally or not,
I'd rather use my Craftsman scroll saw for it. (Same type of price, and
situation, with the scroll saw. Around $35, for a nice 16" variable
speed, new in the box. The Woodworking Gods look out for me at times).
All I'd probably use the bandsaw for is crosscuts, maybe up to a foot,
max, at this time, maybe make a jig and try a bit of resawing later on.

Thanks.



JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.

All bandsaws tend to cut at an angle and this is especially true of
the small, cheap ones. The trick is to find the angle and adjust your
cut accordingly. Most of them are pretty consistent about it.

Bah. My HE&M saws cut straight as an arrow until the blades wear out
and break. Not all bandsaws cut crooked- not even most of them. They
just need to be adjusted correctly and used for appropriate tasks.
The smaller, cheaper ones are just a lot harder to adjust.

I don't think you can get a 1/2 blade for a 9" saw. However you're on
the right track. Wider blades tend to cut straighter.

Try out some carbide or ceramic spacers as well- they're a lot more
wear-resistant, and are supposed to help reduce the amount of heat on
the blade.

--RC (the 'proud' owner of a 9" Delta)


Sleep? Isn't that a totally inadequate substitute for caffine?


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 22:46:01 -0600, Prometheus
wrote:


Only a bit of resawing, of course. Unless you saw has a whole lot
more power than the Delta, 2.5" is about the widest board (using maple
as a benchmark) I've gotten to resaw nicely with a saw that small.
Anything larger really bogs down the motor.


Could you improve on that (albeit saw slower and rougher)
with a lower tooth count ? Or were you down at about 3 or
so already ?

"Swingman" wrote in
:

Sounds like he's already tried that and now wants to be adventurous,
not to mention that everything I stated above is completely
independent of size, so it can't hurt his efforts at seeing what he
can make this "tiny saw" do ... which it appears was his reason for
posting .

Um, you read the question a bit different than I did...to me it
came across more as "this isn't working well, where should I start
to fix it", hence the idea that there was more that could be done
with the 1/4" blade.

John