Today I made a knee operated kill switch for my Jet table saw. Here is a
photo of the finished switch:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/knee_plate.jpg

I made a mounting plate from 1/4" Baltic Birch ply to which I glued and
screwed two pivot arms made from scrap oak. This plate was installed
between the switch and the mounting bracket:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/pivot_arms.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...with_pivot.jpg

The knee plate was made from 3/8" Baltic Birch and scrap oak.

My design criteria:

1) switch should not interfere with depth adjustment wheel when blade set to
45 degree bevel (it does not)
2) no obstruction of switch start button (it does not)
3) minimal forward extension of entire switch (adds about 5/8" -- 1/4" for
mounting plate and 3/8" for knee plate)
4) minimal throw to operate switch (about 1" at bottom of plate, about 3/4"
where knee contacts plate)
5) minimal cost (made entirely from existing scrap and hardware)

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message
ink.net...
Today I made a knee operated kill switch for my Jet table saw. Here is a
photo of the finished switch:
snip
The knee plate was made from 3/8" Baltic Birch and scrap oak.

My design criteria:

1) switch should not interfere with depth adjustment wheel when blade set
to 45 degree bevel (it does not)
2) no obstruction of switch start button (it does not)
3) minimal forward extension of entire switch (adds about 5/8" -- 1/4" for
mounting plate and 3/8" for knee plate)
4) minimal throw to operate switch (about 1" at bottom of plate, about
3/4" where knee contacts plate)
5) minimal cost (made entirely from existing scrap and hardware)

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/


Nice adaptation of the standard-issue switch that comes on the Craftsman
Professional (22124) table saw at Sears.
The only thing missing seems to be the provision for inserting a long-hasp
padlock as a preventive measure against "unauthorized" use :-)

-- Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/




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Well done! That is awesome and entirely a great idea. I use one myself in adult
ed. class though it is a plastic factory made product. Yours looks far more artistic.

Alex

Posted another in a.b.p.w for the cabinet saw.

"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message
ink.net...
Today I made a knee operated kill switch for my Jet table saw. Here is a
photo of the finished switch:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/knee_plate.jpg

I made a mounting plate from 1/4" Baltic Birch ply to which I glued and
screwed two pivot arms made from scrap oak. This plate was installed
between the switch and the mounting bracket:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/pivot_arms.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...with_pivot.jpg

The knee plate was made from 3/8" Baltic Birch and scrap oak.

My design criteria:

1) switch should not interfere with depth adjustment wheel when blade set
to 45 degree bevel (it does not)
2) no obstruction of switch start button (it does not)
3) minimal forward extension of entire switch (adds about 5/8" -- 1/4" for
mounting plate and 3/8" for knee plate)
4) minimal throw to operate switch (about 1" at bottom of plate, about
3/4" where knee contacts plate)
5) minimal cost (made entirely from existing scrap and hardware)

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

"Ken Vaughn" wrote in
ink.net:

Today I made a knee operated kill switch for my Jet table saw. Here
is a photo of the finished switch:

snip

Such a switch needn't be original to be _very_ useful. I'm much more
comfortable killing the power with my leg, and keeping my eyes on the
sharp, spinning bits.

Thanks for posting, Ken.

Patriarch

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 00:02:30 GMT, "Ken Vaughn"
wrote:

I'm really glad that you explained that, Ken...
I saw the pictures in the other NG and liked your work, but had no
idea what the switch was for..

So, it's not a "deadman" switch, but a quick "no hands" way to shut
the saw off?

Today I made a knee operated kill switch for my Jet table saw. Here is a
photo of the finished switch:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/knee_plate.jpg

I made a mounting plate from 1/4" Baltic Birch ply to which I glued and
screwed two pivot arms made from scrap oak. This plate was installed
between the switch and the mounting bracket:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/pivot_arms.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...with_pivot.jpg

The knee plate was made from 3/8" Baltic Birch and scrap oak.

My design criteria:

1) switch should not interfere with depth adjustment wheel when blade set to
45 degree bevel (it does not)
2) no obstruction of switch start button (it does not)
3) minimal forward extension of entire switch (adds about 5/8" -- 1/4" for
mounting plate and 3/8" for knee plate)
4) minimal throw to operate switch (about 1" at bottom of plate, about 3/4"
where knee contacts plate)
5) minimal cost (made entirely from existing scrap and hardware)

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

So, it's not a "deadman" switch, but a quick "no hands" way to shut
the saw off?


Yes, that's correct -- there are times, not often thankfully, when ripping
certain pieces of wood that the kerf wants to spread ahead of the cut and
bind against the fence or close (pinch) on the blade. This is often the
result of "reaction" wood, where the wood has grown under stress because of
a bend in the tree. If the binding is not severe and you are using a good
push block you can usually work through it, but every so often the only safe
solution is to shut the saw down and finish the cut with a bandsaw or find
another way to cut the board. With the knee switch you don't have to take
your eyes off the board to cut the power.
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 14:12:45 GMT, "Ken Vaughn"
wrote:

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .

So, it's not a "deadman" switch, but a quick "no hands" way to shut
the saw off?


Yes, that's correct -- there are times, not often thankfully, when ripping
certain pieces of wood that the kerf wants to spread ahead of the cut and
bind against the fence or close (pinch) on the blade. This is often the
result of "reaction" wood, where the wood has grown under stress because of
a bend in the tree. If the binding is not severe and you are using a good
push block you can usually work through it, but every so often the only safe
solution is to shut the saw down and finish the cut with a bandsaw or find
another way to cut the board. With the knee switch you don't have to take
your eyes off the board to cut the power.

Good point... I usually try to turn the saw off if I can't relieve the
bind quickly... being cheap, I hate to burn a blade...

I'm working on how to put one on my RAS now...
It can be a real hassle trying to get up and out to the end of the arm
where the switch is when you're ripping... which is when you might
need to kill it the most..

Nice, simple and bookmarked for addition to a couple of my tools.

Thanks
RonB

"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message
ink.net...
Today I made a knee operated kill switch for my Jet table saw. Here is a
photo of the finished switch:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/knee_plate.jpg

I made a mounting plate from 1/4" Baltic Birch ply to which I glued and
screwed two pivot arms made from scrap oak. This plate was installed
between the switch and the mounting bracket:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/pivot_arms.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...with_pivot.jpg

The knee plate was made from 3/8" Baltic Birch and scrap oak.

My design criteria:

1) switch should not interfere with depth adjustment wheel when blade set
to 45 degree bevel (it does not)
2) no obstruction of switch start button (it does not)
3) minimal forward extension of entire switch (adds about 5/8" -- 1/4" for
mounting plate and 3/8" for knee plate)
4) minimal throw to operate switch (about 1" at bottom of plate, about
3/4" where knee contacts plate)
5) minimal cost (made entirely from existing scrap and hardware)

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

Made a switch bracket myself about four years ago with similar design
objectives in mind. It is interesting how the same objectives can yield
such different approaches to the problem. I think the extrusion was
less than $10 at the Borg and I had the rivets already. About the only
challenge was trying to figure out the height from the floor to meet my
flexed knee. It took me only about an hour to make. I like the fact I
can use it no matter where I am standing, which was one additional
design point not in yours. Oh, and it is very smoooooth to operate.
Pix are in ABPW...

Ken Vaughn wrote:
Today I made a knee operated kill switch for my Jet table saw. Here is a
photo of the finished switch:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/knee_plate.jpg

I made a mounting plate from 1/4" Baltic Birch ply to which I glued and
screwed two pivot arms made from scrap oak. This plate was installed
between the switch and the mounting bracket:

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65j/pivot_arms.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...with_pivot.jpg

The knee plate was made from 3/8" Baltic Birch and scrap oak.

My design criteria:

1) switch should not interfere with depth adjustment wheel when blade set to
45 degree bevel (it does not)
2) no obstruction of switch start button (it does not)
3) minimal forward extension of entire switch (adds about 5/8" -- 1/4" for
mounting plate and 3/8" for knee plate)
4) minimal throw to operate switch (about 1" at bottom of plate, about 3/4"
where knee contacts plate)
5) minimal cost (made entirely from existing scrap and hardware)