"Monroe" wrote in message
...
Interested in methods that others are using for working during winters
in metal quonsets that don't have permanent insulation. I'm toying
with the ideas of building a small, 8 ft high insulated "room" in one
corner of the quonset or perhaps erecting a temporary canvas/poly
enclosure (think temporary vehicle shelters with piping frame).

Winter here means periods of -40, dry. The quonset is all-metal,
corrugated, 40 ft x 60 ft x 20 ft max height with enclosed ends.
--

Monroe


Does not answer your question, but I found this interesting.
http://www.uh.edu/engines/epi1278.htm
http://www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq75-1.htm


I'd partition off a section as you describe. I'd make it out of panels of
insulating foam. Light and easy to move, you can change the design easily
if you desire.

Heatable space within the unheatable sounds good. I think I'd avoid the
temptation to use expanded foam for my igloo, though. Flame can do some
nasty things quick. Shiny side in fiberglass in a wood frame with a face
of thin sheetrock or tempered board would do. Don't believe I'd worry about
wind intrusion, so the back could go au natural until a reason was found for
covering. Ceiling should have more than the walls, if you've got the
insulation.

Bet you could heat a 20x20 constructed that way for "pennies a day."

"Monroe" wrote in message
...
Interested in methods that others are using for working during winters
in metal quonsets that don't have permanent insulation. I'm toying
with the ideas of building a small, 8 ft high insulated "room" in one
corner of the quonset or perhaps erecting a temporary canvas/poly
enclosure (think temporary vehicle shelters with piping frame).

Winter here means periods of -40, dry. The quonset is all-metal,
corrugated, 40 ft x 60 ft x 20 ft max height with enclosed ends.
--

Monroe

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 02:51:58 GMT, Monroe
calmly ranted:

Interested in methods that others are using for working during winters

I had my 2-car shop converted to forced air when the HVAC guy
came out to install the new heater/cooler. And 8" duct keeps it
within 10 degrees of the house with the door closed. I drilled
a couple dozen 2" holes through the door and keep a furnace filter
over the opening to equalize the pressure (and keep dust out of
the house) when the heater kicks in. For finishing, I open the side
door to ventilate while the solvent in the finish evaporates, then
close up to regain the heat and dry properly.


in metal quonsets that don't have permanent insulation. I'm toying
with the ideas of building a small, 8 ft high insulated "room" in one
corner of the quonset or perhaps erecting a temporary canvas/poly
enclosure (think temporary vehicle shelters with piping frame).

How about using 1" or 2" expanded foam panels glued to the
canvas shell for better/longer heat retension? Or build a
knockdown style frame with built-in panels of 1/4" OSB and
foamboard? Use it as a spray booth in the summer, shelter in
the winter. Consider spraying foam insulation on the inside
of the quonset if you're adventurous and deep-pocketed.


Winter here means periods of -40, dry. The quonset is all-metal,
corrugated, 40 ft x 60 ft x 20 ft max height with enclosed ends.

That's cold! Our winters in So. OR get down to +20F (so far, but
this is only my 3rd winter here.)


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On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 02:51:58 GMT, Monroe
wrote:



Interested in methods that others are using for working during winters
in metal quonsets that don't have permanent insulation. I'm toying
with the ideas of building a small, 8 ft high insulated "room" in one
corner of the quonset or perhaps erecting a temporary canvas/poly
enclosure (think temporary vehicle shelters with piping frame).

Canvas and poly don't have much of an R-value, I think. I'd probably
try to dream up a way to make 4x8'ish panels out of rigid foam panels.
Pretty cheap at the BORG.

How much would it be to spray on some foam insulation inside the hut?



Winter here means periods of -40, dry. The quonset is all-metal,
corrugated, 40 ft x 60 ft x 20 ft max height with enclosed ends.

Where's "here"?

-40!!! Move.


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message . com...
"Monroe" wrote in message
...
Interested in methods that others are using for working during winters
in metal quonsets that don't have permanent insulation. I'm toying
with the ideas of building a small, 8 ft high insulated "room" in one
corner of the quonset or perhaps erecting a temporary canvas/poly
enclosure (think temporary vehicle shelters with piping frame).

Winter here means periods of -40, dry. The quonset is all-metal,
corrugated, 40 ft x 60 ft x 20 ft max height with enclosed ends.
--

Monroe


Does not answer your question, but I found this interesting.
http://www.uh.edu/engines/epi1278.htm
http://www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq75-1.htm


I'd partition off a section as you describe. I'd make it out of panels of
insulating foam. Light and easy to move, you can change the design easily
if you desire.

On 20 Oct 2004 14:38:35 -0700, (Bill Wallace) calmly
ranted:

-40!!! Move.

Monroe must be counting on the Global Warming to make it
a nice and toasty 72°F next year.


--

From time to time, we have been tempted to believe that society has
become too complex to be managed by self-rule, that government by
an elite group is superior to government for, by, and of the people.
But if no one among us is capable of governing himself, then who
among us has the capacity to govern someone else?
All of us together, in and out of government, must bear the
burden. The solutions we seek must be equitable, with no one
group singled out to pay a higher price.

-President Ronald Reagan
First Inaugural Address
Tuesday, January 20, 1981

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Heatable space within the unheatable sounds good. I think I'd avoid the
temptation to use expanded foam for my igloo, though. Flame can do some
nasty things quick.

Expanded polystyrene foam insulation is modified so as not to burn if the
source of ignition is removed. It will just put itself out. It is less
flammable that many forms of paneling or other wall coverings. When it
burns, the products of combustion are soot, water, and carbon dioxide, same
as a wood fire.

Building codes do call for it to have a layer of sheetrock though.

"Monroe" wrote in message

As to the foam, in the oilpatch where I work foam is not used much
because of the safety factor of flammability.

Get the facts. It is safe. Insulation is required to be modified material
that will not burn on its own.

Subject: Quonset Work
From: Monroe

Interested in methods that others are using for working during winters
in metal quonsets that don't have permanent insulation.

I'd guess you wouldn't want to get this
elaborate, but what about that spray
foam insulation that used to be applied
to walls and ceilings? Don't know if
it's used anymore. I'v heard that a
quonset hut is very efficient to heat
if well insulated.

Though I'm sure they've changed it, the stuff I'm familiar with got a lot of
its oomph from vermiculite - see the talc/asbestos dissertations referenced
above. Not to mention you can _always_ heat a smaller space for less than a
larger.

"BUB 209" wrote in message
...
Subject: Quonset Work
From: Monroe

Interested in methods that others are using for working during winters
in metal quonsets that don't have permanent insulation.

I'd guess you wouldn't want to get this
elaborate, but what about that spray
foam insulation that used to be applied
to walls and ceilings? Don't know if
it's used anymore. I'v heard that a
quonset hut is very efficient to heat
if well insulated.

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 02:51:24 GMT, Monroe
wrote:


The sectional panel idea is sounding better. Knock down is preferred.
As to the foam, in the oilpatch where I work foam is not used much
because of the safety factor of flammability. I was interested in
comments from others who have tried the temporary structure route.

Huh... I'll have to dig a little bit. AFAIK (and that ain't very far)
those stryofoam panels, with relfective backing, at the borg aren't
flammable.

"patrick conroy" wrote in message

Huh... I'll have to dig a little bit. AFAIK (and that ain't very far)
those stryofoam panels, with relfective backing, at the borg aren't
flammable.

Correct. They must meet fire codes and they are checked by third party
inspection. They may burn if a source of ignition is present, but will stop
when it is taken away.

Subject: Quonset Work
From: "George" george@least

Though I'm sure they've changed it, the stuff I'm familiar with got a lot of
its oomph from vermiculite - see the talc/asbestos dissertations referenced

Wow, I didn't know that stuff contained
asbestos. About 15 years ago I had to
use it on a job in a factory to fill a 25
foot high cinderblock wall. If it contains
talc, that would explain the "slippery"
quality that resulted in the following
phenomenon: We drilled a few 1" holes
in the cinderblock lower down on the
wall, and the stuff began to leak out
of the holes, prodigiously. There was
an updraft in the building, so it was
actually pouring "up" out of the holes,
while we were running around frantically
looking for garbage bags to contain it -
I think we filled about 10. Sorry to
ramble on. For me, it's "Hey-that reminds
me of" day, I guess.

"Monroe" wrote in message
...
Ah, my err. Wrong term/explanation there. Not the issue of
flammability of the product, rather the potential for ignition of
fugitive volatile emissions (and acute releases) from static
discharges associated with the product.

Huh? Never heard of a problem with static discharge.


But for my application, these panels then do not contribute to
combustion w/o maintenance of a soure of ignition? This sounds
reasonable for use as insulation for paneling in a knock-down system.
Time to check out local building codes for even a temporary structure.

Thanks

http://www.huntsman.com/polymers/Media/EPS7-7.3.pdf

FLAMMABILITY

Both the expandable polystyrene and expanded polystyrene products must be
considered

combustible when directly exposed to fire of sufficient intensity and heat.
Therefore, neither

should be stored nor installed near open flame or ignition sources.

The modified grades of expandable polystyrene contain flame-retardants
designed to

decrease flammability due to accidental ignition from a small flame source.
The expanded

polystyrene manufactured from these products have been tested in numerous
small scale

fire tests and meet the requirements of the nation's building codes and
applicable industrial,

federal, and state requirements.

THE RESULTS OF THESE TESTS ARE NOT INTENDED TO REFLECT HAZARDS

UNDER ACTUAL FIRE CONDITIONS.

Flammability Characteristics

Recommended Maximum Use Temperatu 165ºF (75ºC)

Melting Point: As a thermoplastic, polystyrene does not exhibit a true
melting point. It will

begin to soften at about 212ºF (100ºC) and, as more heat is applied, melting
occurs.

Flash Ignition Temperature*: The lowest initial

temperature of air passing around a molded sample

of EPS at which a sufficient amount of combustible gas

is evolved to be ignited (ASTM D 1929). 698ºF (370ºC)

Self Ignition Temperature*: The lowest initial temperature of

air passing around the specimen at which, in the absence

of an ignition source, the self-heating properties of the EPS lead

to ignition or ignition occurs of itself. (ASTM D1929) 752ºF (400ºC)

Potential Heat of Building Materials ** A property-type

measurement of the heat that could be potentially released 17,293 BTU