Hi all,

Just purchased a Delta TS350 (yep, I know there are much better saw's,
but this fit my constraints on space right now).

Anyway, after seeing many posts about Topcoat here, I picked up a can
when at my local Woodcraft. Unpacked the saw, cleaned it with
kerosene (sp?) per the instructions, checked it with a dial-caliper
(blade was only out by 0.003"), then pulled out the Topcoat.

Read the directions (Spray on a light coat, let dry for a couple of
minutes, wipe off). Seemed pretty simple, so I sprayed on a light
coat, waited a couple of minutes and wiped off with a paper towel. I
looked at the table and it looked like the coverage was thin in a
couple of places, so sprayed on a slightly heavier coat, waited, and
wiped.

I just checked it tonight (4 nights later), and I'll be darned if
there isn't some small amount of rust on it already. Now, I live in
Florida (land of liquid air and none-too-intelligent voters), but I'm
trying to figure out where I went wrong!!! What exactly does a "light
coat" consist of?

Any hints here on where I screwed up would be really appreciated,
along with any hints on a good way to remove the existing rust, and
correctly protect the top this time!!!

Thanks in advance!!!

Trace

I have been using TopCote for 15 years in Houston.
IIRC when I first started using TopCote the instructions said to put on 2
Liberal HEAVY coats.
The more often you put it on the better it works. Total coverage is
necessary and the more times you recoat the more likely of total coverage.
BTY I do not buff off anymore but simply let it wear off.

I had similar experience with BoeShield on my new saw. I cleaned the new
top off immediately applied BoeShield and the nest morning had a lot of
rust. I immediately went back to TopCote and seldom if ever find any rust 4
years later.

I have been using TopCote for 15 years in Houston.
IIRC when I first started using TopCote the instructions said to put on 2
Liberal HEAVY coats.
The more often you put it on the better it works. Total coverage is
necessary and the more times you recoat the more likely of total coverage.
BTY I do not buff off anymore but simply let it wear off.

I had similar experience with BoeShield on my new saw. I cleaned the new
top off immediately applied BoeShield and the nest morning had a lot of
rust. I immediately went back to TopCote and seldom if ever find any rust 4
years later.

"Leon" wrote in message

The more often you put it on the better it works. Total coverage is
necessary and the more times you recoat the more likely of total coverage.
BTY I do not buff off anymore but simply let it wear off.

Ditto ... no problems with TopCote on my TS, BS or jointer table. I don't
buff it either, just leave it filmy and let it wear off.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04

"Leon" wrote in message

The more often you put it on the better it works. Total coverage is
necessary and the more times you recoat the more likely of total coverage.
BTY I do not buff off anymore but simply let it wear off.

Ditto ... no problems with TopCote on my TS, BS or jointer table. I don't
buff it either, just leave it filmy and let it wear off.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04

"William Wilson" wrote in message
om...



I just checked it tonight (4 nights later), and I'll be darned if
there isn't some small amount of rust on it already. Now, I live in
Florida (land of liquid air and none-too-intelligent voters), but I'm
trying to figure out where I went wrong!!! What exactly does a "light
coat" consist of?

Any hints here on where I screwed up would be really appreciated,
along with any hints on a good way to remove the existing rust, and
correctly protect the top this time!!!

If the rust is not very bad, WD-40 and a green scrubby thing will remove it.
If heavy, buy TopSaver. Great stuff.

Sounds like you need more Topcote. Give it a couple of heavy doses. Repeat
a light coat at least once a month in your area.

"William Wilson" wrote in message
om...



I just checked it tonight (4 nights later), and I'll be darned if
there isn't some small amount of rust on it already. Now, I live in
Florida (land of liquid air and none-too-intelligent voters), but I'm
trying to figure out where I went wrong!!! What exactly does a "light
coat" consist of?

Any hints here on where I screwed up would be really appreciated,
along with any hints on a good way to remove the existing rust, and
correctly protect the top this time!!!

If the rust is not very bad, WD-40 and a green scrubby thing will remove it.
If heavy, buy TopSaver. Great stuff.

Sounds like you need more Topcote. Give it a couple of heavy doses. Repeat
a light coat at least once a month in your area.

don't use Minwax floor wax, it has a slip inhabiter to create more friction,
so you don't slip and fall when it's used on your floor.

my Grandpa and Dad used linseed oil to protect from rust, seem to work well,
I've never had a rust problem so I haven't done it, so I don't know.

the way I was told to use it, was put on an even coat and let dry for a week


GerryG wrote:

Interesting. From the way it's supposed to work, I thought a single coat
would be (or should be) enough. I've alternated at various times between
that and using paste wax. My impression is that the wax does a better job
of stopping rust, and is of course much cheaper.

Caveat: That was an impression, not an opinion. Other views are sought.

Assuming, of course, the person knows how to apply wax. I say this because
I've heard some rather remarkable stories on that.

GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 18:52:19 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"William Wilson" wrote in message
.com...



I just checked it tonight (4 nights later), and I'll be darned if
there isn't some small amount of rust on it already. Now, I live in
Florida (land of liquid air and none-too-intelligent voters), but I'm
trying to figure out where I went wrong!!! What exactly does a "light
coat" consist of?

Any hints here on where I screwed up would be really appreciated,
along with any hints on a good way to remove the existing rust, and
correctly protect the top this time!!!

If the rust is not very bad, WD-40 and a green scrubby thing will remove
it.
If heavy, buy TopSaver. Great stuff.

Sounds like you need more Topcote. Give it a couple of heavy doses.
Repeat a light coat at least once a month in your area.

don't use Minwax floor wax, it has a slip inhabiter to create more friction,
so you don't slip and fall when it's used on your floor.

my Grandpa and Dad used linseed oil to protect from rust, seem to work well,
I've never had a rust problem so I haven't done it, so I don't know.

the way I was told to use it, was put on an even coat and let dry for a week


GerryG wrote:

Interesting. From the way it's supposed to work, I thought a single coat
would be (or should be) enough. I've alternated at various times between
that and using paste wax. My impression is that the wax does a better job
of stopping rust, and is of course much cheaper.

Caveat: That was an impression, not an opinion. Other views are sought.

Assuming, of course, the person knows how to apply wax. I say this because
I've heard some rather remarkable stories on that.

GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 18:52:19 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"William Wilson" wrote in message
.com...



I just checked it tonight (4 nights later), and I'll be darned if
there isn't some small amount of rust on it already. Now, I live in
Florida (land of liquid air and none-too-intelligent voters), but I'm
trying to figure out where I went wrong!!! What exactly does a "light
coat" consist of?

Any hints here on where I screwed up would be really appreciated,
along with any hints on a good way to remove the existing rust, and
correctly protect the top this time!!!

If the rust is not very bad, WD-40 and a green scrubby thing will remove
it.
If heavy, buy TopSaver. Great stuff.

Sounds like you need more Topcote. Give it a couple of heavy doses.
Repeat a light coat at least once a month in your area.

Interesting. From the way it's supposed to work, I thought a single coat would
be (or should be) enough. I've alternated at various times between that and
using paste wax. My impression is that the wax does a better job of stopping
rust, and is of course much cheaper.

Caveat: That was an impression, not an opinion. Other views are sought.

Assuming, of course, the person knows how to apply wax. I say this because
I've heard some rather remarkable stories on that.

GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 18:52:19 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"William Wilson" wrote in message
. com...



I just checked it tonight (4 nights later), and I'll be darned if
there isn't some small amount of rust on it already. Now, I live in
Florida (land of liquid air and none-too-intelligent voters), but I'm
trying to figure out where I went wrong!!! What exactly does a "light
coat" consist of?

Any hints here on where I screwed up would be really appreciated,
along with any hints on a good way to remove the existing rust, and
correctly protect the top this time!!!

If the rust is not very bad, WD-40 and a green scrubby thing will remove it.
If heavy, buy TopSaver. Great stuff.

Sounds like you need more Topcote. Give it a couple of heavy doses. Repeat
a light coat at least once a month in your area.

Interesting. From the way it's supposed to work, I thought a single coat would
be (or should be) enough. I've alternated at various times between that and
using paste wax. My impression is that the wax does a better job of stopping
rust, and is of course much cheaper.

Caveat: That was an impression, not an opinion. Other views are sought.

Assuming, of course, the person knows how to apply wax. I say this because
I've heard some rather remarkable stories on that.

GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 18:52:19 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"William Wilson" wrote in message
. com...



I just checked it tonight (4 nights later), and I'll be darned if
there isn't some small amount of rust on it already. Now, I live in
Florida (land of liquid air and none-too-intelligent voters), but I'm
trying to figure out where I went wrong!!! What exactly does a "light
coat" consist of?

Any hints here on where I screwed up would be really appreciated,
along with any hints on a good way to remove the existing rust, and
correctly protect the top this time!!!

If the rust is not very bad, WD-40 and a green scrubby thing will remove it.
If heavy, buy TopSaver. Great stuff.

Sounds like you need more Topcote. Give it a couple of heavy doses. Repeat
a light coat at least once a month in your area.

"Richard Clements" wrote in message
...
don't use Minwax floor wax, it has a slip inhabiter to create more
friction,
so you don't slip and fall when it's used on your floor.

my Grandpa and Dad used linseed oil to protect from rust, seem to work
well,
I've never had a rust problem so I haven't done it, so I don't know.

the way I was told to use it, was put on an even coat and let dry for a
week


I remember seein' a couple-few references in the past concerning using
automotive Slick50/Duralube/Greased Lightning/Other with the DuPont PTFE oil
additive to coat/protect a table saw, or pretty much any, cast iron top...
the formula is purported to chemically 'bond' with the metal to
coat/seal/protect and reduce friction...

Anyone have any experience with this, or suggestions on application?
wipe-on, let soak, wipe-off? I'd hope this bonding process doesn't require
the heat of the engine to work, the very notion of stuffing my saw into an
oven to bake is ludicrous :P

I only ask because I have access to some quantity of this stuff at a much
cheaper (read: Free) price than any of those commercial products, and while
I can't seem to find the references in the news archives, I remember someone
made it work... anyone?

TIA

On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 00:06:13 -0400, "Rekit" wrote:

I remember seein' a couple-few references in the past concerning using
automotive Slick50/Duralube/Greased Lightning/Other with the DuPont PTFE oil
additive to coat/protect a table saw, or pretty much any, cast iron top...
the formula is purported to chemically 'bond' with the metal to
coat/seal/protect and reduce friction...

Anyone have any experience with this, or suggestions on application?
wipe-on, let soak, wipe-off? I'd hope this bonding process doesn't require
the heat of the engine to work,

it does.


the very notion of stuffing my saw into an
oven to bake is ludicrous :P

I only ask because I have access to some quantity of this stuff at a much
cheaper (read: Free) price than any of those commercial products, and while
I can't seem to find the references in the news archives, I remember someone
made it work... anyone?

TIA



I used the gear lube version in my skilsaw. that saw is still going
strong mebbe 15 or 20 years now. 'course these days I don't use it
like I used to...

Thanks for all the replies...I clean up the top and drop a couple of
heavy coats and see what happens!!

Trace