I recently bought a used band saw and after a week or so i went to use it and low and behold it blows the breaker just before it locks into on position.. Ive tried different outlet and higher quality extension cord.s.. My first thought is the switch but dont no how to determine if thats the cause. My little test shows theres power at the switch but thats all.. Any help would be appreciated before i start order part for no reason thx
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1m1m

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...w-3124413-.htm

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021 at 9:32:13 AM UTC-4, Rob1973 wrote:
I recently bought a used band saw and after a week or so i went to use it and low and behold it blows the breaker just before it locks into on position.. Ive tried different outlet and higher quality extension cord.s.. My first thought is the switch but dont no how to determine if thats the cause. My little test shows theres power at the switch but thats all.. Any help would be appreciated before i start order part for no reason thx
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1m1m


Have you tried to move the blade by hand? With all that exposed rust, I'm wondering
what the inside looks like. Can the wheels even turn? Can they turn freely?
You might be over-drawing current because the motor can't get started.

If you can't test the switch with a meter, another way to test it is to bypass it.

- Unplug the machine.
- If you can remove the wires from the switch, do that and short them together.
- If you can't remove the wires, short the connections with a jumper.
- Plug in the machine (or plug the machine into a switched power strip if
that makes you feel safer. That's what I usually do.)

If it starts, it's the switch. If the breaker pops, it's something else.

But try to spin the wheels first. In fact, with all that rust on the blade, I'd take it
off before I did any further testing. Then try to spin the drive wheel. Then the idler
wheel. If they both spin freely, proceed with the above steps, just letting the motor
spin the drive wheel - assuming it can.

Whacking the motor with a rubber or wooden mallet might help also. It could be stuck
from non-use. Whacking it at start-up attempt is best, but if the breaker pops right away,
that may not help. It often works with motors that hum but won't start.

Yes that was first rhing i tried.. Motor isnt seized as it spins like a brand new one would..

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...w-3124413-.htm

Rcn1973 wrote in
groupdirect.com:

Yes that was first rhing i tried.. Motor isnt seized as it spins like
a brand new one would..


What about the rest of the system? Do the wheels turn smoothly and easily?
Does the band seem to track well?

Before we suggest you may have a motor problem, we'd like to make sure it
isn't a mechanical problem. Motor problems often require much more money
to fix.

Puckdropper

Yes everything runs smooth and band stays on track..i should say that it did turn on and spin a bit the first rime i tried it but ever since it blows a breaker the second it click to on..

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...w-3124413-.htm

On 6/11/2021 2:15 AM, Rcn1973 wrote:
Yes everything runs smooth and band stays on track..i should say that it
did turn on and spin a bit the first rime i tried it but ever since it
blows a breaker the second it click to on..

So, you've got a path to ground somewhere -- either a bare wire in
connection box or the switch or something like that is/will be just a
mechanical fix or it's blown insulation off a winding...

You've just got to find where, specifically it is--internal or external
to the motor itself.

Start by taking looking at connections...you know it is at/from the
switch on or it would pop the breaker just plugging it in before turning
the switch on.


--

Test continuity from casing to hot side of plug. If the circuit (before the motor) is touching the casing, having the saw grounded will trip the breaker. Without a ground it could spin up. Casing would be hot.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...w-3124413-.htm

On Friday, June 11, 2021 at 9:15:06 AM UTC-4, Scott wrote:
Test continuity from casing to hot side of plug. If the circuit (before the motor) is touching the casing, having the saw grounded will trip the breaker. Without a ground it could spin up. Casing would be hot.
--

....and just so that there is no confusion here, a hot case is extremely dangerous.
Do not remove the ground as a test unless you are 100% sure of what you are doing.

Unplug the device before testing continuity from the casing to the hot side of plug.