Greetings All, I just purchased (and used) a 10" Delta Band saw. I
tensioned the blade so that it does not deflect more than 1/4" inch
when I push on the blade laterally with moderate force. However, when
I cut hard wood (poplar in this case, about 1 1/4" thick) the blade
will not track my pencil line nicely, it tends to walk in a direction
other than the one I intended it to walk? Is this the normal behavior
for a low end band saw, am I possibly doing something wrong? I
understand the cut will never be perfect but after I make my cut it is
so jagged that I have to pull out the drum sander and have it to smooth
things out. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

TFD

Sounds like the teeth "set" is more agressive on one side. Normal with most
bandsaw blades.
Try letting it follow your line by cutting freehand, then adjust your fence
at that angle.


"LineVoltageHalogen" wrote in message
ups.com...
Greetings All, I just purchased (and used) a 10" Delta Band saw. I
tensioned the blade so that it does not deflect more than 1/4" inch
when I push on the blade laterally with moderate force. However, when
I cut hard wood (poplar in this case, about 1 1/4" thick) the blade
will not track my pencil line nicely, it tends to walk in a direction
other than the one I intended it to walk? Is this the normal behavior
for a low end band saw, am I possibly doing something wrong? I
understand the cut will never be perfect but after I make my cut it is
so jagged that I have to pull out the drum sander and have it to smooth
things out. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

TFD

Sorry for not being clear. I am using the saw free hand, I was cutting
a curve when I first noticed this issue. I have not even tried cutting
anything straight with the fence yet.

LineVoltageHalogen wrote:
Greetings All, I just purchased (and used) a 10" Delta Band saw. I
tensioned the blade so that it does not deflect more than 1/4" inch
when I push on the blade laterally with moderate force. However, when
I cut hard wood (poplar in this case, about 1 1/4" thick) the blade
will not track my pencil line nicely, it tends to walk in a direction
other than the one I intended it to walk? Is this the normal behavior
for a low end band saw, am I possibly doing something wrong? I
understand the cut will never be perfect but after I make my cut it is
so jagged that I have to pull out the drum sander and have it to smooth
things out. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Are you using the blade that came with the saw? If so, get another
(better) one.

I've been using Suffolk's timberwolf blades, and don't have any
problems. There are other makers of good blades as well.

Otherwise, did you adjust the tracking with the guards fully withdrawn
from the blade? I didn't get special blades for the garage-sale bandsaw
I picked up last year (a little Skil, like yours more or less) and had
similar problems. Adjusting the rear guides to just behind the
(properly centered and tensioned) blade helped for any but the smallest
of the blades.

er
--
email not valid

Yes, it is hte blade that came with the saw. I did adjust the tracking
(per the manual) when I first got the saw. I need to go back and
re-read the adjustment instructions. I will look into a new blade, any
ideas for a good general purpose blade? I know they have different
configs on the teeth but I am not sure what would be best for me? I
will probably be cutting hardwoods, mostly curves of some sort with the
wood never being thicker than 2 inches?

Thanks for all your help.

One problem with these and other low enders is the rear guide wanders
back no matter how tight it is and the side guides flattern the curf on
one side of the blade making it impossible to go strait .I think you
can buy good quality up grade guides I have ,but Im in australia .the
teeth must never touch the guides
regards den

I checked an my saw requires a blade that is 72.5 inches long. When I
looked out on the internet no on made a blade of this length, I did
find 72 inches long? Will I have to have one made special or will 72
inches fit?

TFD

LineVoltageHalogen wrote:
I checked an my saw requires a blade that is 72.5 inches long. When I
looked out on the internet no on made a blade of this length, I did
find 72 inches long? Will I have to have one made special or will 72
inches fit?

Suffolk makes the Timberwolf blade to whatever length you require--you
have only to pay for the next higher length listed on their website.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

er
--
email not valid

Hate to lean on you this much but what type of blade should I consider?
I will be cutting both hard and softwood and the thickness will most
likely never exceed 2 inches? I notice they have terminlogy such as
"skip", "standard" and you can buy by tooth count? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

TFD

LineVoltageHalogen wrote:
Hate to lean on you this much but what type of blade should I consider?
I will be cutting both hard and softwood and the thickness will most
likely never exceed 2 inches? I notice they have terminlogy such as
"skip", "standard" and you can buy by tooth count? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Yes, you can specify tpi.

You want at least 6 teeth in the wood (so = 7tpi for 2" of stock), and
deep enough to make straight cuts.

There is a lot of information on the Suffolk website you can use to
match the blade to your needs. Spending a little time there is well
worth it. They also encourage you to give them a call and let their
tech service dept. help you select a blade.

Try here for starters:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

er
--
email not valid

A general rule is that three teeth should be in contact with the
piece you're cutting.

LineVoltageHalogen wrote:
Hate to lean on you this much but what type of blade should I consider?
I will be cutting both hard and softwood and the thickness will most
likely never exceed 2 inches? I notice they have terminlogy such as
"skip", "standard" and you can buy by tooth count? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

TFD