Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,

"******" wrote:

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?


There are 8-ft levels out there. reasonably priced, too.
Hard to find a straighter edge than that.

I think a piece of 8ft angle iron would make a heavy but decent straight
edge.

I bought a great straight edge from http://www.eurekazone.org/ this is not
a single piece but is the best two piece straight edge I have seen. They
also have a sled for accurate placement of the circular saw.

I have used the rough cut with a circular saw and clean up with a straight
edge and router for long lengths and have been very happy with the result.

Dave Paine.


"******" wrote in message
news:4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04...
Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,

"******" writes:

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
edge up with a router.

That works for me.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Get an aluminum angle, 2"x2"x1/8"x96" and a couple of 3", C-Clamps.

Works for me, less than $20 USD, complete.

HTH

Lew

Lew Hodgett responds:

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Get an aluminum angle, 2"x2"x1/8"x96" and a couple of 3", C-Clamps.

Works for me, less than $20 USD, complete.

Works great. Add a really good blade and you can often forget about clean-up.

Charlie Self
"Inanimate objects are classified scientifically into three major categories -
those that don't work, those that break down and those that get lost." Russell
Baker

In article 4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04, ****** wrote:
Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

I cheated. I got a 10' metal stud at the lumber yard. I think it was a
whopping $2.79. clamps at each end, *and* some 'brace' strips against
the back of it, clamped down at the back of the stock, to keep it from
flexing. and 'awaaaaaaay we go!'. works like a charm.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "******"
wrote:

Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,


Cut a 3 or 4" strip from the other side of your ply or a cheaper ply
and use that to reference your cuts.

Clif

"Clif" wrote in message
...


Cut a 3 or 4" strip from the other side of your ply or a cheaper ply
and use that to reference your cuts.


I was wondering when the simplest solution would surface.. ;~) I was just
getting ready to post the same.

Thanks all! I think the angle iron is for me!

******


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...

"******" writes:

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a
skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
edge up with a router.

That works for me.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Get an aluminum angle, 2"x2"x1/8"x96" and a couple of 3", C-Clamps.

Works for me, less than $20 USD, complete.

HTH

Lew

Any S4S (surfaced 4 sides) lumber you buy will be straight enough to
make a fence for your circular saw and use it for this cut. No need
to rout. Rig the setup on a scrap piece to determine the distance
from the blade to the fence and be sure to consider which side of the
blade kerf you're measuring from. Put 4 2x4's on your horses and set
it up so that there is a 2x very close to each side of the blade and
the other 2 are supporting the far sides. Clamp your "fence" and rip
away.


I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 21:57:05 -0400, ****** wrote:

Thanks all! I think the angle iron is for me!
Good luck. With my CS, the motor comes close to the foot for shallow cuts.
Angle iron is too tall. YMMV.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"

I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.

"Wolf Lahti" wrote in message
...

"******" wrote:

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?


There are 8-ft levels out there. reasonably priced, too.
Hard to find a straighter edge than that.

Not really. Levels are a bit concave to bias them towards
resting out at the ends.

Robert Bonomi states:


I cheated. I got a 10' metal stud at the lumber yard. I think it was a
whopping $2.79. clamps at each end, *and* some 'brace' strips against
the back of it, clamped down at the back of the stock, to keep it from
flexing. and 'awaaaaaaay we go!'. works like a charm.

For maybe six bucks, would 2 of those things work if you tack welded one on top
of the other about every 6-8"? No flex to deal with then, not much thicker,
twice as heavy, but IIRC, they are pretty light anyway?

Charlie Self
"Inanimate objects are classified scientifically into three major categories -
those that don't work, those that break down and those that get lost." Russell
Baker

"Scott Conner" wrote in message

Any S4S (surfaced 4 sides) lumber you buy will be straight enough to
make a fence for your circular saw .....

Yep ... just like any woman will do for a wife.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04

In article 4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04, ****** wrote:
Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,




Assuming you are buying more than one sheet of plywood, you can put 2
sheets up on sawhorses, offset the long edge of the top sheet from the
bottom sheet an appropriate distance to use it as a fence for your
circular saw, clamp it, then rip off a strip a few inches wide from the
bottom sheet. Now you have an 8 foot straightedge.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

"Leon" wrote in message om...
I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.

Ok, let me rephrase. Any STRAIGHT s4s lumber will work. Though I
didn't specify in my original post, you may want to inspect it before
you buy; just like your wife.

Scott Conner apparently said,on my timestamp of 11/08/2004 12:00 AM:


Ok, let me rephrase. Any STRAIGHT s4s lumber will work. Though I
didn't specify in my original post, you may want to inspect it before
you buy; just like your wife.


Funny. Wasn't aware my wife inspected anything before buying...
d&r



--
Cheers
Nuno Souto
am

On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "******"
wrote:

Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,


Got an 8ft length of MDF laying around w/ the factory edge still on
it?

Go buy a piece of 1/4" MDF... It will be veery straight
and you can use it to build one of these:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp

****** wrote:

Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,

"John Keeney" wrote in message
...

"Wolf Lahti" wrote in message
...

"******" wrote:

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?


There are 8-ft levels out there. reasonably priced, too.
Hard to find a straighter edge than that.

Not really. Levels are a bit concave to bias them towards
resting out at the ends.

???
Are you saying that levels are hourglass shaped?
All I can say is that I've NEVER seen one like that and would throw it out
if I did..
I'd also say that since most modern 8' levels are made from aluminum
extrusions, they are a constant dimension along their length.

-Jack

In article ,
Charlie Self wrote:
Robert Bonomi states:


I cheated. I got a 10' metal stud at the lumber yard. I think it was a
whopping $2.79. clamps at each end, *and* some 'brace' strips against
the back of it, clamped down at the back of the stock, to keep it from
flexing. and 'awaaaaaaay we go!'. works like a charm.

For maybe six bucks, would 2 of those things work if you tack welded one on top
of the other about every 6-8"? No flex to deal with then, not much thicker,
twice as heavy, but IIRC, they are pretty light anyway?

I dunno. I don't have welding capability. grin

They're available with the metal in several thicknesses, but even the 'heavy'
ones are still very light as far as total mass goes.

I suspect one could stiffen things considerably by using a two (or more)
'in parallel', i.e. in a 'UU', or 'UUU' arrangement.

As long as the stud is straight to start with, it clamps down straight.
and there is 'merely' the matter of dealing with any flexing that might
occur from side-stresses while making the cut. I tend to have an abundance
of scraps in the sub 4' range, that are well-suited for use as temporary
cross-bracing.

"J"
wrote:

Since most modern 8' levels are made from aluminum
extrusions, they are a constant dimension along their length.


That's been my experience.

Hi Pat!

Exactly what I was looking for when I started this thread! Your approach is
superb, elegant and simple.

Thank you for the great info!

Wanka





"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
Go buy a piece of 1/4" MDF... It will be veery straight
and you can use it to build one of these:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp

****** wrote:

Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will
be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a
skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,

It does come in different sizes.

Good luck. With my CS, the motor comes close to the foot for shallow cuts.
Angle iron is too tall. YMMV.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"

Years ago I took a piece of red oak, jointed it flat on the edge and put a
piece of aluminum angle material on one edge. It has served me faithfully
for at least 30 years. Not only do I use it to draw lines, but I also clamp
it to 4 X 8 sheets of plywood for a saw guide.
It doesn't get as much use as it did, I now have a panel saw. I do wood
boat restorations and handle a lot of sheet goods.

Don Dando

"******" wrote in message
news:4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04...
Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,

I don't think so.

"Scott Conner" wrote in message
m...
Any S4S (surfaced 4 sides) lumber you buy will be straight enough to
make a fence for your circular saw and use it for this cut.

Not the Borg, obviously. Saw a 2x10 at Home Depot the other day that was a
perfect start for that hand carved propeller you've always wanted. No
bending required.

"Leon" wrote in message
m...
I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.

Leon wrote:

I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.


Probably at a very EXCLUSIVE lumber store.

Yeah, and just like your wife, once bent, you'll never it get it
straight. And just because they are straight at one time, doesn't
mean they won't bend later.

Scott Conner wrote:

"Leon" wrote in message om...
I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.

Ok, let me rephrase. Any STRAIGHT s4s lumber will work. Though I
didn't specify in my original post, you may want to inspect it before
you buy; just like your wife.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

an 8' (96") straight edge:
http://store.yahoo.com/toolsplus/han...ght-edges.html

Alex

On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "******"
wrote:

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

I use Corian cutoffs, about four inches wide, 8, 10, 12 feet long.



Regards,
Tom.

Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

Yeah, and just like your wife, once bent, you'll never it get it
straight. And just because they are straight at one time, doesn't
mean they won't bend later.

Let me rephrase again: I have no idea how to do this but there seem
to be some very good suggestions here. Carry on.

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 06:14:22 -0400, Tom Watson
calmly ranted:

I use Corian cutoffs, about four inches wide, 8, 10, 12 feet long.

Corian cutoffs? Aren't those awfully heavy to swim in, Tawm?

------------------------------
REAL men don't need free plans
------------------------------
http://diversify.com REAL websites

On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "******"
wrote:

Hi,

I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.

What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.

Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?

Thanks,



if you are using more than 1 sheet of plywood lay one on top the other
and clamp it on your marks using the top sheet as the strait edge.
alow for the distance from the edge of the saw shoe to the blade when
making your marks. after you cut the first side for the book case use
it as a guide to cut the rest. for a book case the factory edge of the
plywood should be strait enough. works for me!

skeez

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 13:13:47 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 06:14:22 -0400, Tom Watson
calmly ranted:

I use Corian cutoffs, about four inches wide, 8, 10, 12 feet long.

Corian cutoffs? Aren't those awfully heavy to swim in, Tawm?

Swim nekkid. The Corian's brittle and breaks when you try to wear it.

------------------------------
REAL men don't need free plans

Amen bro.





Regards,
Tom.

Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

"Wolf Lahti" wrote in message
...
"J"
wrote:

Since most modern 8' levels are made from aluminum
extrusions, they are a constant dimension along their length.


That's been my experience.

You should both look closer.