When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt: You say "I drilled a hole."

When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it: You say "I drilled a hole."

When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw: You say "I drilled a starter hole."

And, based upon your post, you knew that all along!

"...the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact, to drill before driving a screw or nail..."

Context controls. The OP was, in fact, referring to drilling pilot holes - no need for "interpretation" at all.

A language has constructs, rules, if you will. Ostensibly, we were all taught such things as part of our education. To argue a point one needs reference to the rule as opposed to anecdote and references to one's subjective apprehension of what is 'common.'

"BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?"

According to Miriam Webster online, the later is preferred and the former will serve. Since neither makes any sense, why worry about the rule for hyphenation?

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 7:29:44 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 5:14:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:


BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?

Gramps is a man. It's mandrill.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ma4ht93gYc

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 8:42:34 PM UTC-4, (;harles wrote:
When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt: You say "I drilled a hole."

When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it: You say "I drilled a hole."

When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw: You say "I drilled a starter hole."

And, based upon your post, you knew that all along!

"...the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact, to drill before driving a screw or nail..."

Context controls. The OP was, in fact, referring to drilling pilot holes - no need for "interpretation" at all.

A language has constructs, rules, if you will. Ostensibly, we were all taught such things as part of our education. To argue a point one needs reference to the rule as opposed to anecdote and references to one's subjective apprehension of what is 'common.'

"BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?"

According to Miriam Webster online, the later is preferred and the former will serve. Since neither makes any sense, why worry about the rule for hyphenation?

Is foreplay a synonym for predrill?

I'll ask SWMBO which term she prefers.

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4,
Clare Snyder wrote:"I agree on pre-drilling "

Really? How does one pre-drill?

" pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics.

"Drill before driving screw or nail" Wouldn't that be pre-driving or pre-crewing in that case.

If what you meant to say was "Drill before driving screw or nail" why not simply say "I drilled hole prior to nailing or screwing the pieces together.

"pre- a prefix occurring originally in loanwords from Latin, where it meant €œbefore€� (preclude; prevent); applied freely as a prefix, with the meanings €œprior to,€� €œin advance of,€� €œearly,€� €œbeforehand,€� €œbefore,€� "

As they say KISS (principle).

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 8:32:13 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"I couldn't glue it but I sure wish the builder had."

After a hurricane ripped the roof off house after house in Miami a few decades back the building codes were changed and things like gluing roof sheathing in place were adopted.

At a university, they studied the results of the hurricane and ran various tests on structures and determined that running a bead of construction adhesive along (either side of) the joint where the rafter met the sheathing (in the attic) would significantly reinforce the structure.

You might try this on your flooring if you have exposed floor joists you can access in the crawl pace or basement. Six bucks with of sub-floor adhesive just might make a difference.

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 18:26:50 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 8:32:13 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"I couldn't glue it but I sure wish the builder had."

After a hurricane ripped the roof off house after house in Miami a few decades back the building codes were changed and things like gluing roof sheathing in place were adopted.

At a university, they studied the results of the hurricane and ran various tests on structures and determined that running a bead of construction adhesive along (either side of) the joint where the rafter met the sheathing (in the attic) would significantly reinforce the structure.

You might try this on your flooring if you have exposed floor joists you can access in the crawl pace or basement. Six bucks with of sub-floor adhesive just might make a difference.

If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead, I
probably would. I don't feature sitting on the floor until the glue
dries. ;-)

Jack wrote:

[...]

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.

.... brads, but I get your point.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/piXXXpIniRw?autoplay=1&start=351&end=367&rel=0

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 7:29:44 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 5:14:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:


BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?

Gramps is a man. It's mandrill.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ma4ht93gYc

Mr Madrill ain't got time for no predrillin' LOL
https://www.youtube.com/embed/c0mdys5_Wtk?autoplay=1&start=10&rel=0

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 15:14:55 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:


Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,

Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?


pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
Drill before driving screw or nail.

Don't we *always* drill before doing something with the hole?

No. The vast majority of wood screws are driven into virgin wood. I've
NEVER seen drywall screws go into a drilled hole. I've virtually never
seen deck screws put into a drilled hole. The vast majority of sheet
metal screws make their own hole. I've seen hundreds of lag bolts go
into beams without drilling holes. Most screw-in hooks go in without
drilling a hole
When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt, should I say I
pre-drilled?

ALL bolts need to have a drilled hole. Not all screws need a drilled
hole.

When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it, should I say I
pre-drilled?

Love to see you put a wire through just about anything without making
a hole first - whether you use a drill or an axe is up to you.

When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw, should I say I
pre-drilled?

Even though the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact,
to drill before driving a screw or nail, the basic semantics - "to drill
before" doesn't really define what we are drilling "before".

Isn't language fun? ;-)

BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?

Generally it is hyphenated in North American english - can't speak for
the rest of the world but I suspect it is the same.

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 17:30:28 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.

The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.

I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
machine will product.

And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.
Are you sure?????
Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
screwed floors do NOT squeak.

Oh, you're assuming he has one of those modern cardboard houses.

No. My house is over 40 years old. When replacing subflooring in older
houses with plywood I often use PL as well as screws. I never NAIL
subflooring any more. I DO staple hardwood - but not engineered
hardwood - particularly when installing "on slab" - where it is
generally glued (but sometimes, depending on the flooring, loose
laid.)

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 21:41:54 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 18:26:50 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 8:32:13 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"I couldn't glue it but I sure wish the builder had."

After a hurricane ripped the roof off house after house in Miami a few decades back the building codes were changed and things like gluing roof sheathing in place were adopted.

At a university, they studied the results of the hurricane and ran various tests on structures and determined that running a bead of construction adhesive along (either side of) the joint where the rafter met the sheathing (in the attic) would significantly reinforce the structure.

You might try this on your flooring if you have exposed floor joists you can access in the crawl pace or basement. Six bucks with of sub-floor adhesive just might make a difference.

If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead, I
probably would. I don't feature sitting on the floor until the glue
dries. ;-)

Pocket screws through the joist into the subfloor, but get the torque
right.

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 11:30:38 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 15:14:55 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:


Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,

Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?


pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
Drill before driving screw or nail.

Don't we *always* drill before doing something with the hole?

No. The vast majority of wood screws are driven into virgin wood. I've
NEVER seen drywall screws go into a drilled hole. I've virtually never
seen deck screws put into a drilled hole. The vast majority of sheet
metal screws make their own hole. I've seen hundreds of lag bolts go
into beams without drilling holes. Most screw-in hooks go in without
drilling a hole
When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt, should I say I
pre-drilled?

ALL bolts need to have a drilled hole. Not all screws need a drilled
hole.

When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it, should I say I
pre-drilled?

Love to see you put a wire through just about anything without making
a hole first - whether you use a drill or an axe is up to you.

When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw, should I say I
pre-drilled?

Even though the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact,
to drill before driving a screw or nail, the basic semantics - "to drill
before" doesn't really define what we are drilling "before".

Isn't language fun? ;-)


A total Whoosh!

Never mind, not worth the rime to explain it.

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

Then the glue bead is taking the weight of whatever is on top with a
gap between the two beads. Eventually it's going to fail and Mr.
Squeaky comes back.

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
....and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 01:58:16 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Jack wrote:

[...]

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.

... brads, but I get your point.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/piXXXpIniRw?autoplay=1&start=351&end=367&rel=0

I think I'd use clamps.

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:59:37 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

I would run the bead too. When someone disassembles something I built
I want a bit of cussing because it is work.

(;harles wrote:


Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,

Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?


As a matter of fact, I DO pre-drill. It's not zen like, it's just
looking at where the thing is aimed to make sure I don't put a hole in
my head.

Again.

Puckdropper

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 21:41:39 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:59:37 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

I would run the bead too. When someone disassembles something I built
I want a bit of cussing because it is work.

Agreed. As long as the joint can be tightened up, a bead of glue
should work just fine. Of course it would be good to get glue as far
into the joint as possible.

On Mon, 04 Nov 2019 22:05:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 21:41:39 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:59:37 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

I would run the bead too. When someone disassembles something I built
I want a bit of cussing because it is work.

Agreed. As long as the joint can be tightened up, a bead of glue
should work just fine. Of course it would be good to get glue as far
into the joint as possible.

Sacrificial putty knife?

On Tuesday, November 5, 2019 at 11:03:41 AM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 04 Nov 2019 22:05:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 21:41:39 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:59:37 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

I would run the bead too. When someone disassembles something I built
I want a bit of cussing because it is work.

Agreed. As long as the joint can be tightened up, a bead of glue
should work just fine. Of course it would be good to get glue as far
into the joint as possible.

Sacrificial putty knife?

When he sells the house, the buyer's inspector is going to want to know
why there's a putty knife glued between the I-beam and the subfloor. ;-)

On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:52:34 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 5, 2019 at 11:03:41 AM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 04 Nov 2019 22:05:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 21:41:39 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:59:37 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

I would run the bead too. When someone disassembles something I built
I want a bit of cussing because it is work.

Agreed. As long as the joint can be tightened up, a bead of glue
should work just fine. Of course it would be good to get glue as far
into the joint as possible.

Sacrificial putty knife?

When he sells the house, the buyer's inspector is going to want to know
why there's a putty knife glued between the I-beam and the subfloor. ;-)

Then use old tooth brushes flatten the end.....

On Wednesday, November 6, 2019 at 10:56:01 AM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:52:34 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 5, 2019 at 11:03:41 AM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 04 Nov 2019 22:05:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 21:41:39 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:59:37 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

I would run the bead too. When someone disassembles something I built
I want a bit of cussing because it is work.

Agreed. As long as the joint can be tightened up, a bead of glue
should work just fine. Of course it would be good to get glue as far
into the joint as possible.

Sacrificial putty knife?

When he sells the house, the buyer's inspector is going to want to know
why there's a putty knife glued between the I-beam and the subfloor. ;-)

Then use old tooth brushes flatten the end.....

Did you learn that in prison? ;-)

On Thu, 7 Nov 2019 03:40:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, November 6, 2019 at 10:56:01 AM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:52:34 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 5, 2019 at 11:03:41 AM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 04 Nov 2019 22:05:12 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 21:41:39 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:59:37 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 19:07:30 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:

"If I had a good way to compress the joint after running the bead"

You run the bead ^ along the intersection of the floor joist and the sub-flooring:

==============
______________
^| |^
| |
| |
| |
| |

Then you press it as you would caulking. The result is that the two are joined and move together. In theory, eliminating a source of 'the squeaks.'

That's a really good idea! I think it would even be easier because my
floor joists are engineered I-beams (2x3s top and bottom on OSB). I
just need to get the length right. Maybe I should pre-drill it. ;-)
...and clip the points off the screws to get a longer bite.

Don't know how that happened but this reply was supposed to be to
Markem, below.

I would run the bead too. When someone disassembles something I built
I want a bit of cussing because it is work.

Agreed. As long as the joint can be tightened up, a bead of glue
should work just fine. Of course it would be good to get glue as far
into the joint as possible.

Sacrificial putty knife?

When he sells the house, the buyer's inspector is going to want to know
why there's a putty knife glued between the I-beam and the subfloor. ;-)

Then use old tooth brushes flatten the end.....

Did you learn that in prison? ;-)

Never been