As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

I thought I got a great deal on a Skil 5275:05 - nope. Missing
the bolt, etc. Getting replacement parts is a pain. But I've a
"dead" 5150 which I thought could provide parts. Well, sort of.
Then I thought, might be easier to just replace the power cord on
the 5150.
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

tschus
pyotr

--
pyotr filipivich
TV NEWS: Yesterday's newspaper read to the illiterate.

On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 1:34:48 AM UTC-5, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

I thought I got a great deal on a Skil 5275:05 - nope. Missing
the bolt, etc. Getting replacement parts is a pain. But I've a
"dead" 5150 which I thought could provide parts. Well, sort of.
Then I thought, might be easier to just replace the power cord on
the 5150.
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

tschus
pyotr

--
pyotr filipivich
TV NEWS: Yesterday's newspaper read to the illiterate.

I have used portions of extension cords (for heavier duty tools), cords from dead tools and even purchased replacement cords on *Bay. They all work. Understand the amp draw of your particular tool, do not undersize the gauge to save a couple of $.

On 1/24/2019 9:23 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 1:34:48 AM UTC-5, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

I thought I got a great deal on a Skil 5275:05 - nope. Missing
the bolt, etc. Getting replacement parts is a pain. But I've a
"dead" 5150 which I thought could provide parts. Well, sort of.
Then I thought, might be easier to just replace the power cord on
the 5150.
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

tschus
pyotr

--
pyotr filipivich
TV NEWS: Yesterday's newspaper read to the illiterate.

I have used portions of extension cords (for heavier duty tools), cords from dead tools and even purchased replacement cords on *Bay. They all work. Understand the amp draw of your particular tool, do not undersize the gauge to save a couple of $.

In determining the size of the wiring, check the engineering
recommendations, but temper it by checking the cords on similar
equipment at you local store. I have found that the cords on new 1hp
motors table saw, is less that the engineering recommended size. I
don't know if I misunderstood the current draws or the fact that the
cord that comes on the equipment is short caused the apparent under sizing.

--
2018: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 1:34:48 AM UTC-5, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

I thought I got a great deal on a Skil 5275:05 - nope. Missing
the bolt, etc. Getting replacement parts is a pain. But I've a
"dead" 5150 which I thought could provide parts. Well, sort of.
Then I thought, might be easier to just replace the power cord on
the 5150.
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?


I just put this on a PC 743 c-saw:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YESAQE

I also replaced this, which was in way worse shape than the cord itself:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEUM0L8

One of main differences between OEM cords and non-OEM cords is that the OEM
cord may come with connectors on the end that are used specifically with
the OEM switch, etc.

Obviously, the non-OEM cord should be spec'd at least the same as the OEM one.

The B&D cord I used has the same part number as the PC cord and it matched
exactly except for the ring connectors. The OEM cord protector was as snug
a fit as you would like so as a pair they worked well together.

Another thing to consider is the diameter of the cord. The cord for the PC
is "clamped" to the saw by the 2 piece handle. If the replacement cord had
been too small, it would have been loose. If it had been too big, I would
not have been able to screw the handle back together. In my case, the screws
were used to draw the handle parts together and compress the cord. Since I
didn't want to take a chance of stripping the holes in the plastic handle,
I used clamps to close the handle gap and compress the cord, and then
screwed the screws down tight before removing the clamps.

Perfect fit.

On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 3:06:34 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 1:34:48 AM UTC-5, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

I thought I got a great deal on a Skil 5275:05 - nope. Missing
the bolt, etc. Getting replacement parts is a pain. But I've a
"dead" 5150 which I thought could provide parts. Well, sort of.
Then I thought, might be easier to just replace the power cord on
the 5150.
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?


I just put this on a PC 743 c-saw:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YESAQE

I also replaced this, which was in way worse shape than the cord itself:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEUM0L8

One of main differences between OEM cords and non-OEM cords is that the OEM
cord may come with connectors on the end that are used specifically with
the OEM switch, etc.

Obviously, the non-OEM cord should be spec'd at least the same as the OEM one.

The B&D cord I used has the same part number as the PC cord and it matched
exactly except for the ring connectors. The OEM cord protector was as snug
a fit as you would like so as a pair they worked well together.

Another thing to consider is the diameter of the cord. The cord for the PC
is "clamped" to the saw by the 2 piece handle. If the replacement cord had
been too small, it would have been loose. If it had been too big, I would
not have been able to screw the handle back together. In my case, the screws
were used to draw the handle parts together and compress the cord. Since I
didn't want to take a chance of stripping the holes in the plastic handle,
I used clamps to close the handle gap and compress the cord, and then
screwed the screws down tight before removing the clamps.

Perfect fit.

Nice explanation...Thanks for sharing

Just remember that the outside diameter of the cord does not determine the current carrying capacity. Check the label for the conductor size. I would use 14-gauge wire for a 15-amp tool like a drill and 12-gauge wire for a big tool like a table saw.
Some "heavy duty" cords in the big box stores seem to mean "heavy duty covering," not heavy wires.

On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

There's a plug, cord, strain relief, and some terminated wires involved.
Ideally, you'd get a similar-diameter cord, remove the old wires from the
strain relief, and by stretching the vinyl sheathing, extract the old sheath
from that strain relief (which is usually molded on top of the cable). Then
any cord that fits snugly can be threaded through the original strain relief.

Crimping or soldering the right terminations onto the wires is a hassle, but
they DO still make those fittings. Match the colors of the old wire with the new ones.
US normally uses green-white-black, European standard is green/yellow-blue-brown,
so if there's no white wire, use the blue one... green and green/yellow
are grounds, the two-conductor cords won't have those colors.

On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 12:16:33 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

There's a plug, cord, strain relief, and some terminated wires involved.
Ideally, you'd get a similar-diameter cord, remove the old wires from the
strain relief, and by stretching the vinyl sheathing, extract the old sheath
from that strain relief (which is usually molded on top of the cable). Then
any cord that fits snugly can be threaded through the original strain relief.

Crimping or soldering the right terminations onto the wires is a hassle, but
they DO still make those fittings. Match the colors of the old wire with the new ones.
US normally uses green-white-black, European standard is green/yellow-blue-brown,
so if there's no white wire, use the blue one... green and green/yellow
are grounds, the two-conductor cords won't have those colors.

Be careful there. If it's US spec it's 120v, if it's european speck
its 240v. If you're in Europe and find a US-spec cord double-check
the voltage on the tool. If you're in the US and find a European-spec
cord, again double-check the voltage.

On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 12:30:11 PM UTC-8, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 12:16:33 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]

Be careful there. If it's US spec it's 120v, if it's european speck
its 240v. If you're in Europe and find a US-spec cord double-check
the voltage on the tool. If you're in the US and find a European-spec
cord, again double-check the voltage.

Any cord with the right kind of plug molded on the end will be OK for the voltage that goes
with that plug; I've seen the European-standard colors on 120V cordsets, though.

On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 14:07:11 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote:

On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 12:30:11 PM UTC-8, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 12:16:33 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]

Be careful there. If it's US spec it's 120v, if it's european speck
its 240v. If you're in Europe and find a US-spec cord double-check
the voltage on the tool. If you're in the US and find a European-spec
cord, again double-check the voltage.

Any cord with the right kind of plug molded on the end will be OK for the voltage that goes
with that plug; I've seen the European-standard colors on 120V cordsets, though.

The cord doesn't care about voltage, the tool does.

On 2/10/2019 5:11 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 14:07:11 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
....

Any cord with the right kind of plug molded on the end will be OK for the voltage that goes
with that plug; I've seen the European-standard colors on 120V cordsets, though.

The cord doesn't care about voltage, the tool does.

U think the manufacturer will have put the wrong voltage plug/cordset on
the tool???

--

On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 14:07:11 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote:

On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 12:30:11 PM UTC-8, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 12:16:33 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]

Be careful there. If it's US spec it's 120v, if it's european speck
its 240v. If you're in Europe and find a US-spec cord double-check
the voltage on the tool. If you're in the US and find a European-spec
cord, again double-check the voltage.

Any cord with the right kind of plug molded on the end will be OK for the voltage that goes
with that plug; I've seen the European-standard colors on 120V cordsets, though.
Yes, I've seen the euro colours on 120 volt cords too - and they are
virtually ALL rated for a minimum of 300 volts -usually 600.

On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 3:16:35 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

There's a plug, cord, strain relief, and some terminated wires involved.

You may have missed one part. I'm not sure what you are referring to as the
"strain relief" but my PC circular saw has a plug, cord, *cord protector*,
strain relief and terminated wires.

What I would call the strain relief are the protrusions on the 2-part handle, that when screwed together clamp the cord tightly. The cord protector is a
separate piece that simply slides onto the cord and is also held in place
by the handle, but not nearly as tight as the cord holder/strain relief.
It basically just sits in a channel so it can't move fore or aft.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEUM0L8

On my saw here's nothing "molded" to the cable other than the plug.

Maybe the Skil 5150 is different, but that's how my PC saw is set up.


Ideally, you'd get a similar-diameter cord, remove the old wires from the
strain relief, and by stretching the vinyl sheathing, extract the old sheath
from that strain relief (which is usually molded on top of the cable). Then
any cord that fits snugly can be threaded through the original strain relief.





Crimping or soldering the right terminations onto the wires is a hassle, but
they DO still make those fittings. Match the colors of the old wire with the new ones.
US normally uses green-white-black, European standard is green/yellow-blue-brown,
so if there's no white wire, use the blue one... green and green/yellow
are grounds, the two-conductor cords won't have those colors.

On 2/10/2019 4:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 3:16:35 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

There's a plug, cord, strain relief, and some terminated wires involved.

You may have missed one part. I'm not sure what you are referring to as the
"strain relief" but my PC circular saw has a plug, cord, *cord protector*,
strain relief and terminated wires.

What I would call the strain relief are the protrusions on the 2-part handle, that when screwed together clamp the cord tightly. The cord protector is a
separate piece that simply slides onto the cord and is also held in place
by the handle, but not nearly as tight as the cord holder/strain relief.
It basically just sits in a channel so it can't move fore or aft.

A strain relief is a grommet or bushing or something molded on the cord
that tightly holds the cord, typically as it goes into a housing.

The purpose is so that the wire terminals, that connect to the
electronics inside a housing, will not be pulled if you pull on the cord.

Some cords have a guard/strain relief that extends a couple of inches to
prevent the cord from being bent too severely as it exits a housing.

On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:23:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/10/2019 4:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 3:16:35 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 10:34:48 PM UTC-8, pyotr filipivich wrote:
As in "Yes" or "not a good idea"?

[want to] replace the power cord on
the 5150. {Skilsaw]
But they don't make those anymore.

So, I'm thinking maybe I could get a "generic"cord and just swap
that. Any ideas?

There's a plug, cord, strain relief, and some terminated wires involved.

You may have missed one part. I'm not sure what you are referring to as the
"strain relief" but my PC circular saw has a plug, cord, *cord protector*,
strain relief and terminated wires.

What I would call the strain relief are the protrusions on the 2-part handle, that when screwed together clamp the cord tightly. The cord protector is a
separate piece that simply slides onto the cord and is also held in place
by the handle, but not nearly as tight as the cord holder/strain relief.
It basically just sits in a channel so it can't move fore or aft.

A strain relief is a grommet or bushing or something molded on the cord
that tightly holds the cord, typically as it goes into a housing.

The purpose is so that the wire terminals, that connect to the
electronics inside a housing, will not be pulled if you pull on the cord.

Some cords have a guard/strain relief that extends a couple of inches to
prevent the cord from being bent too severely as it exits a housing.

It's not as simple as that.

On my PC 743 that "guard/strain relief" is indeed called a "strain reliever"
on their parts list, but it does not serve the "purpose (such) that the wire
terminals, that connect to the electronics inside a housing, will not be pulled if you pull on the cord." It only serves the purpose of "preventing
the cord from being bent too severely as it exits a housing." The fact that
it spins on the cord proofs that.

The actual strain relief that protects the terminal connections is actually
molded into the handle itself. It's not a separate grommet or bushing or
anything molded onto the cord. In between the internal end of the "strain
reliever" sleeve and the terminal connections are 2 protrusions in the handle
channel that the cord goes through. When the handle is screwed back together
those protrusions pinch the cord and hold it tight. So tight that I clamp the
handle closed instead of relying on the screws in the plastic handles to
provide the crushing force. I fear that I'll strip the screw holes.

Even though PC lists P/N 901266 as a "strain reliever", other parts suppliers
list it as a "cord protector" which is much better description since it
protects the cord but does not provide anything in the way of terminal
connection protection.

https://tricitytoolparts.com/product...-843464-875590