replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long thread.
So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying to deal
with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for flat-true
before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was the
basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the outside
of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to risk
bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop, OUT, to
essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll also do
about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on - if I
need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't matter)
a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
dents into petrified eternity.
Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts. Would
you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you can see
with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your tool
- that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
HELL-NO!!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...gh-336887-.htm

replying to Xgenei Lithson, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I concluded that for a flat aluminum plate, without curled edges - that's a
design flaw plain and simple. I don't care if it is Milwalkee - the majority
upscale are going for the reinforced waffle design, and at a minimum buy a saw
that has both edges shaped with a nice round bend to 90-degrees. Anyway - I
have a good cheat that doesn't involve much guesswork, time, money, or labor.
Comparing the shoe-leather soft aluminum baseplate to a same-thickness 1/2"
wide piece of steel - you literally can't bend the steel. Easily 6 to 1.
This is the black weldable steel they sell in the big box hardware store bins.
Just cut and glue to the TOP of the base plate - probably with the two-part
putty, but maybe slow-cure J.B. Weld. Prep, clamp, cure. Nothing fancy - will
do the job guarantee it.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...gh-336887-.htm

On Tue, 29 May 2018 00:14:02 GMT, Xgenei Lithson
m wrote:

replying to Xgenei Lithson, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I concluded that for a flat aluminum plate, without curled edges - that's a
design flaw plain and simple. I don't care if it is Milwalkee - the majority
upscale are going for the reinforced waffle design, and at a minimum buy a saw
that has both edges shaped with a nice round bend to 90-degrees. Anyway - I
have a good cheat that doesn't involve much guesswork, time, money, or labor.
Comparing the shoe-leather soft aluminum baseplate to a same-thickness 1/2"
wide piece of steel - you literally can't bend the steel. Easily 6 to 1.
This is the black weldable steel they sell in the big box hardware store bins.
Just cut and glue to the TOP of the base plate - probably with the two-part
putty, but maybe slow-cure J.B. Weld. Prep, clamp, cure. Nothing fancy - will
do the job guarantee it.
6061T6 aluminum is just as stiff and half the weight.
Get a hunk of 1/8" thick angle and rivet it on or screw it on with
flush rivets or bolts. (countersunk)

A much more "sure bet" than epoxy or JB Weld - even if you use steel -
or flat aluminum bar stock.

replying to Clare Snyder, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
Well, Ms. Snyder -
Okay - but that "half" is 6 oz. total. AND - really - you want the flat - not
the angle piece. AND - Steel is way way stronger - I think it's 3x best grade
alum.
Regarde'

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...gh-336887-.htm

On Tue, 29 May 2018 12:14:03 GMT, Xgenei Lithson
m wrote:

replying to Clare Snyder, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
Well, Ms. Snyder -
Okay - but that "half" is 6 oz. total. AND - really - you want the flat - not
the angle piece. AND - Steel is way way stronger - I think it's 3x best grade
alum.
Regarde'
Do you want steel and aluminum together?
I don't.

On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 2:56:44 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2018 12:14:03 GMT, Xgenei Lithson
m wrote:

replying to Clare Snyder, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
Well, Ms. Snyder -
Okay - but that "half" is 6 oz. total. AND - really - you want the flat - not
the angle piece. AND - Steel is way way stronger - I think it's 3x best grade
alum.
Regarde'
Do you want steel and aluminum together?
I don't.

Use double sided tape. ;-)

replying to Xgenei Lithson, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
One more thing - if your saw has wimpy wimpy pivots / tabs / rivets holding
the baseplate to the motor assembly? If you can bend those things? You're
f'd 6 ways. That is a dangerous saw - won't cut straight - binds .. replace it
ASAP. Get Beefy Beefy and lift weights.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...gh-336887-.htm

On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
thread.
So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
break - but not bend.Â* Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
to deal
with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
flat-true
before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
the
basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS.Â* This one, after much manual
pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
outside
of the blade - right where you would expect.Â* So for that, I'm going to
risk
bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
OUT, to
essentially STRETCH that thin piece.Â* I expect this to work but I'll
also do
about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
if I
need to bring the edge parallel with the blade.Â* If I can't get flat within
1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
matter)
a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
dents into petrified eternity.
Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
Would
you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
can see
with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable.Â* And if it's your
tool
- that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!!Â* and
HELL-NO!!


Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.

On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
thread.
So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
break - but not bend.* Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
to deal
with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
flat-true
before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
the
basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS.* This one, after much manual
pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
outside
of the blade - right where you would expect.* So for that, I'm going to
risk
bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
OUT, to
essentially STRETCH that thin piece.* I expect this to work but I'll
also do
about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
if I
need to bring the edge parallel with the blade.* If I can't get flat within
1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
matter)
a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
dents into petrified eternity.
Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
Would
you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
can see
with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable.* And if it's your
tool
- that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!!* and
HELL-NO!!


Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.

I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
damage even them.

My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!

On 5/29/2018 7:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
thread.
So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
break - but not bend.Â* Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
to deal
with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
flat-true
before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
the
basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS.Â* This one, after much manual
pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
outside
of the blade - right where you would expect.Â* So for that, I'm going to
risk
bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
OUT, to
essentially STRETCH that thin piece.Â* I expect this to work but I'll
also do
about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
if I
need to bring the edge parallel with the blade.Â* If I can't get flat within
1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
matter)
a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
dents into petrified eternity.
Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
Would
you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
can see
with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable.Â* And if it's your
tool
- that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!!Â* and
HELL-NO!!


Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.

I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
damage even them.

My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!

I'm sure you are right but most free hand circular saws are not built
for accuracy so much as track saws are.

On Thu, 31 May 2018 10:34:11 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/29/2018 7:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
thread.
So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
break - but not bend.* Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
to deal
with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
flat-true
before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
the
basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS.* This one, after much manual
pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
outside
of the blade - right where you would expect.* So for that, I'm going to
risk
bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
OUT, to
essentially STRETCH that thin piece.* I expect this to work but I'll
also do
about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
if I
need to bring the edge parallel with the blade.* If I can't get flat within
1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
matter)
a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
dents into petrified eternity.
Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
Would
you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
can see
with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable.* And if it's your
tool
- that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!!* and
HELL-NO!!


Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.

I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
damage even them.

My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!

I'm sure you are right but most free hand circular saws are not built
for accuracy so much as track saws are.


A properly set up quality hand circular saw will cut perfectly square
if run along a straight edge. The cut will be at right angles to the
surface. That's the only "fault" that can be caused by a bent shoe
edge.

My old milweakee and my old Rockwell - both over 30 years old, will
do that - as will my 55+ year old skill worm drive.

A "track saw" is just a circular saw mounted to a "gantry"

On 5/31/2018 5:22 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 31 May 2018 10:34:11 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/29/2018 7:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
thread.
So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
break - but not bend.Â* Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
to deal
with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
flat-true
before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
the
basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS.Â* This one, after much manual
pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
outside
of the blade - right where you would expect.Â* So for that, I'm going to
risk
bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
OUT, to
essentially STRETCH that thin piece.Â* I expect this to work but I'll
also do
about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
if I
need to bring the edge parallel with the blade.Â* If I can't get flat within
1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
matter)
a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
dents into petrified eternity.
Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
Would
you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
can see
with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable.Â* And if it's your
tool
- that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!!Â* and
HELL-NO!!


Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.

I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
damage even them.

My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!

I'm sure you are right but most free hand circular saws are not built
for accuracy so much as track saws are.


A properly set up quality hand circular saw will cut perfectly square
if run along a straight edge. The cut will be at right angles to the
surface. That's the only "fault" that can be caused by a bent shoe
edge.

My old milweakee and my old Rockwell - both over 30 years old, will
do that - as will my 55+ year old skill worm drive.

A "track saw" is just a circular saw mounted to a "gantry"


Well in theory, but most track saws are better built with more
adjustments for accuracy than the old reliable non track saws.
Basically the Festool track saw will rival the cuts on most any cabinet
saw with a top notch blade. There are adjustments on the track saw
bases to correct tracking if necessary. Think, is the blade running
parallel to the guide so that tooth marks are not visible? Regular
circular saws do not offer that as they were never designed to be guided
by a track, although they can be.

Now with that said, the track saws are easy to adjust to make great
cuts. You mention a properly set up quality circular saw will cut well
too. No doubt but I do not recall adjustments on those saws to insure
that the blade is running parallel to the edge of the base/shoe.