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#1
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My son is building a beer pong/corn hole set. Basically this:
http://www.curvesatbethany.com/wp-co.../2015/08/1.png The circular holes need a ledge to hold the inserts. I'll begin by saying that he already bought 1/2" plywood and cut it to size *before* he called me about cutting the ledged holes. So here's what I'm going to suggest: 1 - Glue a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard to the topside of the plywood. 2 - Use a circle cutting jig and an up-cut spiral bit to cut the circular holes through the now 3/4" panel. (He's planning on making a circle cutting jig for his router) 3 - Use a slot cutting bit, with the bearing riding on the plywood to create the ledge by cutting away the hardboard top. A quick look shows that Amana makes a slot cutter that will cut a 1/4 inch "slot" (in this case, the ledge) to a depth of 3/8. I'm sure there are other slot cuttings bits that will work. 4 - Cut the insert disks from 1/4 hardboard. Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? |
#2
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On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 03:26:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: My son is building a beer pong/corn hole set. Basically this: http://www.curvesatbethany.com/wp-co.../2015/08/1.png The circular holes need a ledge to hold the inserts. I'll begin by saying that he already bought 1/2" plywood and cut it to size *before* he called me about cutting the ledged holes. So here's what I'm going to suggest: 1 - Glue a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard to the topside of the plywood. 2 - Use a circle cutting jig and an up-cut spiral bit to cut the circular holes through the now 3/4" panel. (He's planning on making a circle cutting jig for his router) 3 - Use a slot cutting bit, with the bearing riding on the plywood to create the ledge by cutting away the hardboard top. A quick look shows that Amana makes a slot cutter that will cut a 1/4 inch "slot" (in this case, the ledge) to a depth of 3/8. I'm sure there are other slot cuttings bits that will work. 4 - Cut the insert disks from 1/4 hardboard. Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? Why a slot cutting bit? a simple square cornered end cutting router bit will do the job. Set depth, adjust hole cutting tool (trammel) to the right diameter, and cur the top relief FIRST, then with smaller bit re-adjust trammel and cut out the hole. I'm sure he already has the simple bits required. |
#3
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On 4/26/18 8:39 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 03:26:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: My son is building a beer pong/corn hole set. Basically this: http://www.curvesatbethany.com/wp-co.../2015/08/1.png The circular holes need a ledge to hold the inserts. I'll begin by saying that he already bought 1/2" plywood and cut it to size *before* he called me about cutting the ledged holes. So here's what I'm going to suggest: 1 - Glue a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard to the topside of the plywood. 2 - Use a circle cutting jig and an up-cut spiral bit to cut the circular holes through the now 3/4" panel. (He's planning on making a circle cutting jig for his router) 3 - Use a slot cutting bit, with the bearing riding on the plywood to create the ledge by cutting away the hardboard top. A quick look shows that Amana makes a slot cutter that will cut a 1/4 inch "slot" (in this case, the ledge) to a depth of 3/8. I'm sure there are other slot cuttings bits that will work. 4 - Cut the insert disks from 1/4 hardboard. Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? Why a slot cutting bit? a simple square cornered end cutting router bit will do the job. Set depth, adjust hole cutting tool (trammel) to the right diameter, and cur the top relief FIRST, then with smaller bit re-adjust trammel and cut out the hole. I'm sure he already has the simple bits required. I think a combination of these two would work best. However, using Clare's suggestion, just make sure the hole for the trammell's pivot pin goes all the way through the plywood being cut and down into a work table supporting the plywood. When using a circle jig to cut small discs, it's very easy for the router to wander at the end of the cut, especially when there's nowhere for the cut-offs to escape. I would be tempted to cut the small holes first. Then use a guide bushing or rabbeting bit to cut the bigger hole. After all, it's basically a circular rabbet. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
#4
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On 4/26/2018 5:26 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son is building a beer pong/corn hole set. Basically this: http://www.curvesatbethany.com/wp-co.../2015/08/1.png The circular holes need a ledge to hold the inserts. I'll begin by saying that he already bought 1/2" plywood and cut it to size *before* he called me about cutting the ledged holes. So here's what I'm going to suggest: 1 - Glue a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard to the topside of the plywood. 2 - Use a circle cutting jig and an up-cut spiral bit to cut the circular holes through the now 3/4" panel. (He's planning on making a circle cutting jig for his router) 3 - Use a slot cutting bit, with the bearing riding on the plywood to create the ledge by cutting away the hardboard top. A quick look shows that Amana makes a slot cutter that will cut a 1/4 inch "slot" (in this case, the ledge) to a depth of 3/8. I'm sure there are other slot cuttings bits that will work. 4 - Cut the insert disks from 1/4 hardboard. Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? I've never seen a cornhole / beerpong board but I've made a boatload of cornhole sets. I like yours better. Since I made so many and I had a steady trickling demand for them I made a template for the hole so I could use a plunge style rabbetting bit in my router. The template follows the outside of the router shoe (My Porter - Cable has a round shoe profile) so I don't have the problem of the trammel losing its center as the hole is cut. To follow the same technique you'd have to make a ring, shimming the template to the smaller deeper hole, then remove the ring to cut the larger hole. Or, use 2 different rabbeting bits - one with a larger diameter. Or, what if you used a beveled or a stepped bit? One pass and Bob's yer uncle. I'm trying to think of another way. Nothing happened. Steve |
#5
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On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 11:32:43 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/26/18 8:39 AM, Clare Snyder wrote: On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 03:26:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: My son is building a beer pong/corn hole set. Basically this: http://www.curvesatbethany.com/wp-co.../2015/08/1.png The circular holes need a ledge to hold the inserts. I'll begin by saying that he already bought 1/2" plywood and cut it to size *before* he called me about cutting the ledged holes. So here's what I'm going to suggest: 1 - Glue a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard to the topside of the plywood. 2 - Use a circle cutting jig and an up-cut spiral bit to cut the circular holes through the now 3/4" panel. (He's planning on making a circle cutting jig for his router) 3 - Use a slot cutting bit, with the bearing riding on the plywood to create the ledge by cutting away the hardboard top. A quick look shows that Amana makes a slot cutter that will cut a 1/4 inch "slot" (in this case, the ledge) to a depth of 3/8. I'm sure there are other slot cuttings bits that will work. 4 - Cut the insert disks from 1/4 hardboard. Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? Why a slot cutting bit? a simple square cornered end cutting router bit will do the job. Set depth, adjust hole cutting tool (trammel) to the right diameter, and cur the top relief FIRST, then with smaller bit re-adjust trammel and cut out the hole. I'm sure he already has the simple bits required. I think a combination of these two would work best. However, using Clare's suggestion, just make sure the hole for the trammell's pivot pin goes all the way through the plywood being cut and down into a work table supporting the plywood. When using a circle jig to cut small discs, it's very easy for the router to wander at the end of the cut, especially when there's nowhere for the cut-offs to escape. I would be tempted to cut the small holes first. Then use a guide bushing or rabbeting bit to cut the bigger hole. After all, it's basically a circular rabbet. Isn't that basically what I said, except I said a slot cutting bit as opposed to a rabetting bit? Wouldn't the end result be the same? |
#6
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On 4/26/18 5:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 11:32:43 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/26/18 8:39 AM, Clare Snyder wrote: On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 03:26:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: My son is building a beer pong/corn hole set. Basically this: http://www.curvesatbethany.com/wp-co.../2015/08/1.png The circular holes need a ledge to hold the inserts. I'll begin by saying that he already bought 1/2" plywood and cut it to size *before* he called me about cutting the ledged holes. So here's what I'm going to suggest: 1 - Glue a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard to the topside of the plywood. 2 - Use a circle cutting jig and an up-cut spiral bit to cut the circular holes through the now 3/4" panel. (He's planning on making a circle cutting jig for his router) 3 - Use a slot cutting bit, with the bearing riding on the plywood to create the ledge by cutting away the hardboard top. A quick look shows that Amana makes a slot cutter that will cut a 1/4 inch "slot" (in this case, the ledge) to a depth of 3/8. I'm sure there are other slot cuttings bits that will work. 4 - Cut the insert disks from 1/4 hardboard. Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? Why a slot cutting bit? a simple square cornered end cutting router bit will do the job. Set depth, adjust hole cutting tool (trammel) to the right diameter, and cur the top relief FIRST, then with smaller bit re-adjust trammel and cut out the hole. I'm sure he already has the simple bits required. I think a combination of these two would work best. However, using Clare's suggestion, just make sure the hole for the trammell's pivot pin goes all the way through the plywood being cut and down into a work table supporting the plywood. When using a circle jig to cut small discs, it's very easy for the router to wander at the end of the cut, especially when there's nowhere for the cut-offs to escape. I would be tempted to cut the small holes first. Then use a guide bushing or rabbeting bit to cut the bigger hole. After all, it's basically a circular rabbet. Isn't that basically what I said, except I said a slot cutting bit as opposed to a rabetting bit? Wouldn't the end result be the same? Yeah, more or less. For some reason I thought you were putting the 1/4" on the bottom. Either way. I just like using rabbeting bits for that. You can use different bearings to adjust the width. But if the slot cutter works, kudos. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
#7
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On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 03:26:23 -0700 (PDT)
DerbyDad03 wrote: Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? sounds like overthink but if the plywood can only be used for this purpose and no other than buy another piece that is the same thickness as the collar and place that over the original with a hole big enough to accommodate the collar multi ply underlayment is good for this game board |
#8
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On Sunday, April 29, 2018 at 1:23:12 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 03:26:23 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Does that sound like a workable plan? Have I chosen the right router bits for the task? sounds like overthink but if the plywood can only be used for this purpose and no other than buy another piece that is the same thickness as the collar and place that over the original with a hole big enough to accommodate the collar Which basically what I suggested, except that my method ensures that the larger hole is exactly centered over the smaller hole. If you are suggesting cutting the larger hole *before* laminating the 2 pieces together, then you are suggesting doubling the layout work and *hoping* that you get the layout exactly right. I see no reason to even consider that method as a viable solution. Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. |
#9
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On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT)
DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece |
#10
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On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. |
#11
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![]() "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. These all sound more complex then they need to be. Clamp two layers of plywood together. Drill pilot holes through both layers at once - no eliminates layout issues. Separate the two pieces and drill the right size holes in each. Laminate. |
#12
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On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 5:01:04 PM UTC-4, John S wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. These all sound more complex then they need to be. Clamp two layers of plywood together. Drill pilot holes through both layers at once - no eliminates layout issues. Separate the two pieces and drill the right size holes in each. Laminate. Do you have a 6" and a 6 1/2" hole saw that he can borrow? |
#13
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![]() "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 5:01:04 PM UTC-4, John S wrote: "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. These all sound more complex then they need to be. Clamp two layers of plywood together. Drill pilot holes through both layers at once - no eliminates layout issues. Separate the two pieces and drill the right size holes in each. Laminate. Do you have a 6" and a 6 1/2" hole saw that he can borrow? Didn't know the size needed. But a fly cutter would work |
#14
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 17:26:44 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 5:01:04 PM UTC-4, John S wrote: "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. These all sound more complex then they need to be. Clamp two layers of plywood together. Drill pilot holes through both layers at once - no eliminates layout issues. Separate the two pieces and drill the right size holes in each. Laminate. Do you have a 6" and a 6 1/2" hole saw that he can borrow? Hey! I do and they cut cleanly with their diamond tips........... through concrete. ![]() |
#15
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On Wed, 02 May 2018 14:20:06 -0700, OFWW
wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 17:26:44 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 5:01:04 PM UTC-4, John S wrote: "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. These all sound more complex then they need to be. Clamp two layers of plywood together. Drill pilot holes through both layers at once - no eliminates layout issues. Separate the two pieces and drill the right size holes in each. Laminate. Do you have a 6" and a 6 1/2" hole saw that he can borrow? Hey! I do and they cut cleanly with their diamond tips........... through concrete. ![]() If you made out of concrete board no worries about it getting wet. ![]() |
#16
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On Wednesday, May 2, 2018 at 8:08:22 PM UTC-4, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 02 May 2018 14:20:06 -0700, OFWW wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 17:26:44 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 5:01:04 PM UTC-4, John S wrote: "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. These all sound more complex then they need to be. Clamp two layers of plywood together. Drill pilot holes through both layers at once - no eliminates layout issues. Separate the two pieces and drill the right size holes in each. Laminate. Do you have a 6" and a 6 1/2" hole saw that he can borrow? Hey! I do and they cut cleanly with their diamond tips........... through concrete. ![]() If you made out of concrete board no worries about it getting wet. ![]() My son lives in Vegas. There's not a lot of wet around there. |
#17
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On Wed, 2 May 2018 19:16:55 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Wednesday, May 2, 2018 at 8:08:22 PM UTC-4, Markem wrote: On Wed, 02 May 2018 14:20:06 -0700, OFWW wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 17:26:44 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 5:01:04 PM UTC-4, John S wrote: "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 12:18:38 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote: On Sun, 29 Apr 2018 19:11:55 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: Perhaps I misunderstood. If so feel free to clarify. diversity of thought is good cut the hole for the collar in the top piece line up both pieces use collar upside down as template for hole in other piece Laminate the pieces. Cut the small hole. Use it as a built in template to cut the large hole. 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. These all sound more complex then they need to be. Clamp two layers of plywood together. Drill pilot holes through both layers at once - no eliminates layout issues. Separate the two pieces and drill the right size holes in each. Laminate. Do you have a 6" and a 6 1/2" hole saw that he can borrow? Hey! I do and they cut cleanly with their diamond tips........... through concrete. ![]() If you made out of concrete board no worries about it getting wet. ![]() My son lives in Vegas. There's not a lot of wet around there. Beer pong, alcohol is involved, a travesty might occur, spillling beer! |
#18
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 13:43:38 -0700 (PDT)
DerbyDad03 wrote: 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. use a jigsaw this a game board not a jewelry box will it get intense scrutiny by the players anyway by now it should be done and getting use |
#19
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On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 12:12:08 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 13:43:38 -0700 (PDT) DerbyDad03 wrote: 6 of one, 1/2 dz of the other. All depends on what bits you have available. use a jigsaw this a game board not a jewelry box Some people take pride in their work. This game board isn't a jewelry box either. Maybe next time I'll just drill some holes in a 2 x 4. https://i.imgur.com/vooVWFE.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ouehBqf.jpg will it get intense scrutiny by the players Why does that matter? Do you typically give gifts made with poor workmanship? Pride noun 1. a feeling or deep pleasure or satisfaction derived from one's own achievements anyway by now it should be done and getting use Idiot |
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