My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks!

In article ,
says...

My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

I have that same model of saw. The high point of Ridgid's table saw
production in IMO and that of many others.

First, I don't see the guard, splitter, or miter gage--please tell me he
got them.

That said, the safety bits that come as kits are in general pretty cheesy.

Featherboards, go with Kreg. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-PRS3010-True-
FLEX-Featherboard-Single/dp/B000VRNJS2

I used to use a set of home-made featherboards that I clamped down. I
tried several brands of store-bought ones and rolling my own design before
I finally got a Kreg that are so far a happy camper--seems that some others
didn't have quite enough range of movement--whenever I went to make a cut
they seemed to come up a little short--the Kreg will go past the blade a
little on that saw. They won't work on the fence--the slot is too low for
anything I know of to work.

Pushblocks I can't advise--a set came with my jointer and they're still the
duty blocks. I suspect they're the cheapest Delta could find. I have a
GRR-Ripper and it's _really_ nice but so expensive that I don't use it
unless I need one of its tricks. The GRR-Ripper folks have a cheaper model
now ("GRR-Rip Block") that doesn't do all the tricks but is considerably
nicer than the cheap ones--still may be more pricey than you want to go
though.

My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap pushblocks
(unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make him one of the
bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might need.

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 18:44:16 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

I have that same model of saw. The high point of Ridgid's table saw
production in IMO and that of many others.

First, I don't see the guard, splitter, or miter gage--please tell me he
got them.

That said, the safety bits that come as kits are in general pretty cheesy.

Featherboards, go with Kreg. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-PRS3010-True-
FLEX-Featherboard-Single/dp/B000VRNJS2

I use the JessEm feather boards. They're very similar to the Kregs
but have an extra set of adjustments. I bought them before Kreg
copied them. ;-) The JessEm feather boards are about the same price
as the Kregs. They also have, or at least had, a double set (two
feather boards, side-by-side).

http://www.jessem.com/paralign-feather-boards.html

I used to use a set of home-made featherboards that I clamped down. I
tried several brands of store-bought ones and rolling my own design before
I finally got a Kreg that are so far a happy camper--seems that some others
didn't have quite enough range of movement--whenever I went to make a cut
they seemed to come up a little short--the Kreg will go past the blade a
little on that saw. They won't work on the fence--the slot is too low for
anything I know of to work.

I made a taller sub-fence with a T-Slot, so I could use the feather
boards on my fence.

Pushblocks I can't advise--a set came with my jointer and they're still the
duty blocks. I suspect they're the cheapest Delta could find. I have a
GRR-Ripper and it's _really_ nice but so expensive that I don't use it
unless I need one of its tricks. The GRR-Ripper folks have a cheaper model
now ("GRR-Rip Block") that doesn't do all the tricks but is considerably
nicer than the cheap ones--still may be more pricey than you want to go
though.

I have one of those too. I don't use it much. I'd sure use it for a
jointer, though.

My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap pushblocks
(unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make him one of the
bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might need.

I have a variety of push sticks and blocks. I've pretty much settled
on a couple of them for 90% of what I do. It's kinda a personal
thing. He'll probably have to try stuff until he figures out what
works for him.

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

*snip*

My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap
pushblocks (unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make
him one of the bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might
need.




I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

A shoe push stick is too simple and too easy to make to not have one.
All you need to do is take a 2x4 about 6" long and a 1x2 about 3 1/2"
long. Screw the 1x2 to the end of the 2x4 so the 1x2 extends 1/4-1/2"
below the bottom edge of the 2x4. Done!

You can vary the design to fit your needs, some like to put handles
(dowel rods will work) on them, longer ones may be useful as well.

I find this design works well for the bandsaw. Turn the push block on
its side, and it can then be used to push the wood the rest of the way
through the blade with your fingers safely out of the way.

Puckdropper
--
If something doesn't make sense, let me know... I'm pushing 20 hours of
awakenness and am just replenishing some energy before heading to bed.

http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

wrote in
:

*snip*

I use the JessEm feather boards. They're very similar to the Kregs
but have an extra set of adjustments. I bought them before Kreg
copied them. ;-) The JessEm feather boards are about the same price
as the Kregs. They also have, or at least had, a double set (two
feather boards, side-by-side).

http://www.jessem.com/paralign-feather-boards.html
*snip*

I have the Jessem model, and it does a good job. It can take a bit of
time to set up, though, especially if I have to move to a drastically
different configuration--like stacked vs unstacked. Once set up, I've
never had a problem with them.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On 12 Jun 2017 00:59:03 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

*snip*

My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap
pushblocks (unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make
him one of the bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might
need.




I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

We've had this discussion before, here in SED. ;-) I prefer push
sticks because my hands *never* go behind the front edge of the blade
when it's spinning. If kickback is going to be a risk, I use
featherboards.


A shoe push stick is too simple and too easy to make to not have one.
All you need to do is take a 2x4 about 6" long and a 1x2 about 3 1/2"
long. Screw the 1x2 to the end of the 2x4 so the 1x2 extends 1/4-1/2"
below the bottom edge of the 2x4. Done!

You can vary the design to fit your needs, some like to put handles
(dowel rods will work) on them, longer ones may be useful as well.

I find this design works well for the bandsaw. Turn the push block on
its side, and it can then be used to push the wood the rest of the way
through the blade with your fingers safely out of the way.

Puckdropper

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 6:44:17 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

I have that same model of saw. The high point of Ridgid's table saw
production in IMO and that of many others.

First, I don't see the guard, splitter, or miter gage--please tell me he
got them.

I didn't ask, but I will.


That said, the safety bits that come as kits are in general pretty cheesy.

Featherboards, go with Kreg. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-PRS3010-True-
FLEX-Featherboard-Single/dp/B000VRNJS2

I have the same feather boards. Love 'em.

I used to use a set of home-made featherboards that I clamped down. I
tried several brands of store-bought ones and rolling my own design before
I finally got a Kreg that are so far a happy camper--seems that some others
didn't have quite enough range of movement--whenever I went to make a cut
they seemed to come up a little short--the Kreg will go past the blade a
little on that saw. They won't work on the fence--the slot is too low for
anything I know of to work.

I still have my first home made set. I use them as a hold down on the fence
every now and then.


Pushblocks I can't advise--a set came with my jointer and they're still the
duty blocks. I suspect they're the cheapest Delta could find. I have a
GRR-Ripper and it's _really_ nice but so expensive that I don't use it
unless I need one of its tricks. The GRR-Ripper folks have a cheaper model
now ("GRR-Rip Block") that doesn't do all the tricks but is considerably
nicer than the cheap ones--still may be more pricey than you want to go
though.

I have a pair of day-glow Orange, no-name push blocks. I don't recall where they came
from, but they work. I just used one today to rip a piece of 1/8 hardboard.


My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap pushblocks
(unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make him one of the
bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might need.

I'm not a fan of of bird's mouth push sticks. I have a Kreg with a shoe. I feel much more
secure with a shoe.

Thanks for the suggestions.

On 6/11/2017 8:34 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 18:44:16 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

I have that same model of saw. The high point of Ridgid's table saw
production in IMO and that of many others.

First, I don't see the guard, splitter, or miter gage--please tell me he
got them.

That said, the safety bits that come as kits are in general pretty cheesy.

Featherboards, go with Kreg. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-PRS3010-True-
FLEX-Featherboard-Single/dp/B000VRNJS2

I use the JessEm feather boards. They're very similar to the Kregs
but have an extra set of adjustments. I bought them before Kreg
copied them. ;-) The JessEm feather boards are about the same price
as the Kregs. They also have, or at least had, a double set (two
feather boards, side-by-side).

http://www.jessem.com/paralign-feather-boards.html

I used to use a set of home-made featherboards that I clamped down. I
tried several brands of store-bought ones and rolling my own design before
I finally got a Kreg that are so far a happy camper--seems that some others
didn't have quite enough range of movement--whenever I went to make a cut
they seemed to come up a little short--the Kreg will go past the blade a
little on that saw. They won't work on the fence--the slot is too low for
anything I know of to work.

I made a taller sub-fence with a T-Slot, so I could use the feather
boards on my fence.

Pushblocks I can't advise--a set came with my jointer and they're still the
duty blocks. I suspect they're the cheapest Delta could find. I have a
GRR-Ripper and it's _really_ nice but so expensive that I don't use it
unless I need one of its tricks. The GRR-Ripper folks have a cheaper model
now ("GRR-Rip Block") that doesn't do all the tricks but is considerably
nicer than the cheap ones--still may be more pricey than you want to go
though.

I have one of those too. I don't use it much. I'd sure use it for a
jointer, though.

My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap pushblocks
(unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make him one of the
bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might need.

I have a variety of push sticks and blocks. I've pretty much settled
on a couple of them for 90% of what I do. It's kinda a personal
thing. He'll probably have to try stuff until he figures out what
works for him.

Here is a set somewhat like you are looking for. While I did not dig
thoroughly, I believe you can find the rest of the stuff here

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...at=1,240,45884

--
2017: The year we lean to play the great game of Euchre

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 9:09:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 00:59:03 GMT, Puckdropper

....snip...


I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

We've had this discussion before, here in SED. ;-) I prefer push
sticks because my hands *never* go behind the front edge of the blade
when it's spinning. If kickback is going to be a risk, I use
featherboards.

Maybe I'm confused. I use this "push stick" by Kreg. I called that a shoe
style, not a bird's mouth.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Multip...-Stick/3116273

That said, the Kreg Push Stick does require your hand to go beyond the
front of the blade.

Is Kreg using the wrong name for it's device?

(...and yes, I removed the magnet.)

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 19:07:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 9:09:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 00:59:03 GMT, Puckdropper

...snip...


I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

We've had this discussion before, here in SED. ;-) I prefer push
sticks because my hands *never* go behind the front edge of the blade
when it's spinning. If kickback is going to be a risk, I use
featherboards.

Maybe I'm confused. I use this "push stick" by Kreg. I called that a shoe
style, not a bird's mouth.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Multip...-Stick/3116273

That said, the Kreg Push Stick does require your hand to go beyond the
front of the blade.

That's why I don't use them. It's just something I don't do (it's
easier to remember a "never").

Is Kreg using the wrong name for it's device?

That's what Puck is calling a "shoe". His "bird's mouth push stick"
looks like this:
https://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-pocket-push-stick

(...and yes, I removed the magnet.)

I have an extra stick stuck to the side of my table[*] where I can
reach it, if needed. I keep my usual stick on top of the fence.
[*] Right next to the DC remote.

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

*snip*

My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap
pushblocks (unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make
him one of the bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might
need.




I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

A shoe push stick is too simple and too easy to make to not have one.
All you need to do is take a 2x4 about 6" long and a 1x2 about 3 1/2"
long. Screw the 1x2 to the end of the 2x4 so the 1x2 extends 1/4-1/2"
below the bottom edge of the 2x4. Done!

You can vary the design to fit your needs, some like to put handles
(dowel rods will work) on them, longer ones may be useful as well.

I find this design works well for the bandsaw. Turn the push block on
its side, and it can then be used to push the wood the rest of the way
through the blade with your fingers safely out of the way.

Puckdropper

+1

more rocket surgery

http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Pr...tricks-22.html

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 6:44:17 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

I have that same model of saw. The high point of Ridgid's table saw
production in IMO and that of many others.

First, I don't see the guard, splitter, or miter gage--please tell me he
got them.

I didn't ask, but I will.


That said, the safety bits that come as kits are in general pretty cheesy.

Featherboards, go with Kreg. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-PRS3010-True-
FLEX-Featherboard-Single/dp/B000VRNJS2

I have the same feather boards. Love 'em.

I used to use a set of home-made featherboards that I clamped down. I
tried several brands of store-bought ones and rolling my own design before
I finally got a Kreg that are so far a happy camper--seems that some others
didn't have quite enough range of movement--whenever I went to make a cut
they seemed to come up a little short--the Kreg will go past the blade a
little on that saw. They won't work on the fence--the slot is too low for
anything I know of to work.

I still have my first home made set. I use them as a hold down on the fence
every now and then.


Pushblocks I can't advise--a set came with my jointer and they're still the
duty blocks. I suspect they're the cheapest Delta could find. I have a
GRR-Ripper and it's _really_ nice but so expensive that I don't use it
unless I need one of its tricks. The GRR-Ripper folks have a cheaper model
now ("GRR-Rip Block") that doesn't do all the tricks but is considerably
nicer than the cheap ones--still may be more pricey than you want to go
though.

I have a pair of day-glow Orange, no-name push blocks. I don't recall where they came
from, but they work. I just used one today to rip a piece of 1/8 hardboard.


My suggestion would be the Kreg featherboards, a set of cheap pushblocks
(unless you want to splurge on the GRR-Rip stuff), and make him one of the
bird-mouth sticks and whatever else you think he might need.

I'm not a fan of of bird's mouth push sticks. I have a Kreg with a shoe. I feel much more
secure with a shoe.

I use the birds-mouth for the last few inches when I have a piece of stock
that's too narrow for the pushblocks. My other option is the GRR-RIPPER
with the narrow extension. Or if it's short enough just put it on the
sled.

Thanks for the suggestions.

In article . com,
Puckdropper says...

wrote in
:

*snip*

I use the JessEm feather boards. They're very similar to the Kregs
but have an extra set of adjustments. I bought them before Kreg
copied them. ;-) The JessEm feather boards are about the same price
as the Kregs. They also have, or at least had, a double set (two
feather boards, side-by-side).

http://www.jessem.com/paralign-feather-boards.html
*snip*

I have the Jessem model, and it does a good job. It can take a bit of
time to set up, though, especially if I have to move to a drastically
different configuration--like stacked vs unstacked. Once set up, I've
never had a problem with them.

Puckdropper

FWIW those were the first ones I tried. Nothing wrong with them except on
the Ridgid they didn't have quite enough adjustment. They now live on my
router table.

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 10:31:36 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 19:07:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 9:09:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 00:59:03 GMT, Puckdropper

...snip...


I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

We've had this discussion before, here in SED. ;-) I prefer push
sticks because my hands *never* go behind the front edge of the blade
when it's spinning. If kickback is going to be a risk, I use
featherboards.

Maybe I'm confused. I use this "push stick" by Kreg. I called that a shoe
style, not a bird's mouth.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Multip...-Stick/3116273

That said, the Kreg Push Stick does require your hand to go beyond the
front of the blade.

That's why I don't use them. It's just something I don't do (it's
easier to remember a "never").

Is Kreg using the wrong name for it's device?

That's what Puck is calling a "shoe". His "bird's mouth push stick"
looks like this:
https://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-pocket-push-stick

I know what a bird's mouth stick looks like. That wasn't my question.

Let's re-cap...

You said: "I prefer push sticks because my hands *never* go behind the
front edge of the blade when it's spinning."

I showed you a *push stick* that does require you to go beyond the front
of the blade.

You replied: "That's why I don't use them."

If I'm not mistaken, it's not *push sticks* that you prefer/don't use, it's
*bird's mouth* push sticks that you prefer and *shoe style* push sticks that
you don't use.




(...and yes, I removed the magnet.)

I have an extra stick stuck to the side of my table[*] where I can
reach it, if needed. I keep my usual stick on top of the fence.

[*] Right next to the DC remote.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.


marvelous

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


Maybe I'm confused. I use this "push stick" by Kreg. I called that a
shoe style, not a bird's mouth.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Multip...-Stick/3116273

That said, the Kreg Push Stick does require your hand to go beyond the
front of the blade.

Is Kreg using the wrong name for it's device?

(...and yes, I removed the magnet.)

As long as you've got sufficient vertical clearance, there's nothing
wrong with your hand going beyond the front of the blade. If the wood
disappears or the notch breaks, those shoe style pushers will let your
hand continue safely out of harm's way.

FWIW, I've found the insert plate on the Ridgid TS to be just about the
right size for a "hands out!" zone.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks!


And get hm a WWII blade.

On 6/11/2017 10:07 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 9:09:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 00:59:03 GMT, Puckdropper

...snip...


I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

We've had this discussion before, here in SED. ;-) I prefer push
sticks because my hands *never* go behind the front edge of the blade
when it's spinning. If kickback is going to be a risk, I use
featherboards.

Maybe I'm confused. I use this "push stick" by Kreg. I called that a shoe
style, not a bird's mouth.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Multip...-Stick/3116273

That said, the Kreg Push Stick does require your hand to go beyond the
front of the blade.

Is Kreg using the wrong name for it's device?

(...and yes, I removed the magnet.)


I made a similar shaped push stick/shoe but the handle is place back
more. I just copied the outline of a hand saw handle. In any case, I
find it easier to use than the bird mouth style.

I have substantially that exact same saw. I've had it for 13-15 years give
or take maybe longer. I have had no real problems with it in all that time.
I found getting vertical perfectly set a little tricky at first, and if you
do some cutting with the saw out of vertical you can get some saw dust in
the stop area that will prevent it from going hard up on the stop until you
blow it out. My only real complaint is that sometimes the lift mechanism on
mine shifts over a little prevent easy lift and lock. I give it a gentle
kick and its good again for months. Someday I'll fix that. Its been used
heavily for months and then set idle for months, and never given me any real
problems. I used it for a long time for severing aluminum flat bar to rough
size for milling until I finally got a horizontal bandsaw for that.

Its a good saw. For $120 its an absolute steal. I don't know what they
cost today, but I seem to recall I got mine new on sale for around $450.


***

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

My son just bought this Rigid TS3650 on Let-Go for $120. Las Vegas area.
Barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/OuDW4ED.jpg

He is just getting into woodworking and doing a pretty good job so far.
He's asked me how to do a few things and more than once I told him that
it would be easy if he had a TS. Well, now he does.

I told him that a TS can be one of the most versatile tool in his shop, but
you gotta respect it and know how it can hurt you. I talked to him about
doing
some research before he starts using it.

I want to send him some safety accessories. Push sticks, push pads, feather
boards, etc. Does anyone know of a good accessory kit that comes with
the basics to help get him started working safely?

I looked on Amazon and there's a Shop Fox kit, but it doesn't look very
impressive. I may have to piece one together. Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks!

On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 20:31:40 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 10:31:36 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2017 19:07:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 9:09:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 00:59:03 GMT, Puckdropper

...snip...


I hate the birds-mouth push sticks. I consider them unreasonably
dangerous. Try this: Take a pencil or an ink pen and push down on the
edge of a domino at a 45 degree angle (Like a birds mouth stick). (Or
anything relatively the hardness and general shape of a piece of wood.)
Notice what happens? The opposite end lifts, which would be the part of
the wood on the upward bound teeth. Don't give kickback a place to
start--use a shoe.

We've had this discussion before, here in SED. ;-) I prefer push
sticks because my hands *never* go behind the front edge of the blade
when it's spinning. If kickback is going to be a risk, I use
featherboards.

Maybe I'm confused. I use this "push stick" by Kreg. I called that a shoe
style, not a bird's mouth.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Multip...-Stick/3116273

That said, the Kreg Push Stick does require your hand to go beyond the
front of the blade.

That's why I don't use them. It's just something I don't do (it's
easier to remember a "never").

Is Kreg using the wrong name for it's device?

That's what Puck is calling a "shoe". His "bird's mouth push stick"
looks like this:
https://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-pocket-push-stick

I know what a bird's mouth stick looks like. That wasn't my question.

Let's re-cap...

You said: "I prefer push sticks because my hands *never* go behind the
front edge of the blade when it's spinning."

I showed you a *push stick* that does require you to go beyond the front
of the blade.

You replied: "That's why I don't use them."

Because the one you showed does require ones hand to go past the
blade.

If I'm not mistaken, it's not *push sticks* that you prefer/don't use, it's
*bird's mouth* push sticks that you prefer and *shoe style* push sticks that
you don't use.

Yes, the confusion was that the "shoe style" you showed was called a
"push stick". I don't consider it a "stick".

Just the usual Usenet talking past each other.

On 12 Jun 2017 11:40:39 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


Maybe I'm confused. I use this "push stick" by Kreg. I called that a
shoe style, not a bird's mouth.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Multip...-Stick/3116273

That said, the Kreg Push Stick does require your hand to go beyond the
front of the blade.

Is Kreg using the wrong name for it's device?

(...and yes, I removed the magnet.)

As long as you've got sufficient vertical clearance, there's nothing
wrong with your hand going beyond the front of the blade. If the wood
disappears or the notch breaks, those shoe style pushers will let your
hand continue safely out of harm's way.

That's the theory. In practice, it's easier to train oneself to
*never* do something than "it's OK, except...". I can feel it if I
screw up, long before I get into trouble.


FWIW, I've found the insert plate on the Ridgid TS to be just about the
right size for a "hands out!" zone.

Puckdropper

On 6/12/2017 5:00 PM, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 11:40:39 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

[snip]

As long as you've got sufficient vertical clearance, there's nothing
wrong with your hand going beyond the front of the blade. If the wood
disappears or the notch breaks, those shoe style pushers will let your
hand continue safely out of harm's way.

That's the theory. In practice, it's easier to train oneself to
*never* do something than "it's OK, except...". I can feel it if I
screw up, long before I get into trouble.

In my professional life I had to constantly be mindful of potential
conflicts of interest as well as the appearance of improper conduct. A
very wise mentor taught me early on, "If I have to give serious thought
to whether or not any action by me would be a conflict of interest or
considered improper, I simply assume that it would be either or both and
I just don't do it."

That can easily be transferred to every day life in the woodshop and
elsewhere. On nearly every occasion that I deviated from sound safety
practices and paid a price, I had that nagging thought before I did it
that asked, "are you sure this is safe. . .?" Turns out that often it
was not. ;-)

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 8:00:40 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 6/12/2017 5:00 PM, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 11:40:39 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

[snip]

As long as you've got sufficient vertical clearance, there's nothing
wrong with your hand going beyond the front of the blade. If the wood
disappears or the notch breaks, those shoe style pushers will let your
hand continue safely out of harm's way.

That's the theory. In practice, it's easier to train oneself to
*never* do something than "it's OK, except...". I can feel it if I
screw up, long before I get into trouble.

In my professional life I had to constantly be mindful of potential
conflicts of interest as well as the appearance of improper conduct. A
very wise mentor taught me early on, "If I have to give serious thought
to whether or not any action by me would be a conflict of interest or
considered improper, I simply assume that it would be either or both and
I just don't do it."

That can easily be transferred to every day life in the woodshop and
elsewhere. On nearly every occasion that I deviated from sound safety
practices and paid a price, I had that nagging thought before I did it
that asked, "are you sure this is safe. . .?" Turns out that often it
was not. ;-)

That was one of the things I told my son while were discussing his need
to learn about the saw before he starts using it.

"If you are thinking to yourself 'This just doesn't feel right', then it
probably isn't."

It sounds like you waited a little too long to make that decision. ;-)

On 6/12/2017 7:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 8:00:40 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 6/12/2017 5:00 PM, wrote:
On 12 Jun 2017 11:40:39 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:


[snip]

In my professional life I had to constantly be mindful of potential
conflicts of interest as well as the appearance of improper conduct. A
very wise mentor taught me early on, "If I have to give serious thought
to whether or not any action by me would be a conflict of interest or
considered improper, I simply assume that it would be either or both and
I just don't do it."

That can easily be transferred to every day life in the woodshop and
elsewhere. On nearly every occasion that I deviated from sound safety
practices and paid a price, I had that nagging thought before I did it
that asked, "are you sure this is safe. . .?" Turns out that often it
was not. ;-)

That was one of the things I told my son while were discussing his need
to learn about the saw before he starts using it.

"If you are thinking to yourself 'This just doesn't feel right', then it
probably isn't."

It sounds like you waited a little too long to make that decision. ;-)

Guilty as charged, but haven't we all? Fortunately, all I lost was a
fingernail that got smacked really good.