....this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
Thanks.

Bob Villa wrote:

...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:

...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040

They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:

...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040

"Replacement, not OEM, for NLA Delta motor brushes part number 1344019"
(OEM part no. for 36-220)

Bob Villa wrote:


They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.

7mm = .275" = file

HTH

On Fri, 13 May 2016 06:39:50 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:

...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040

They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.

Yep .65 of a millimeter to big.

Bob Villa wrote:

The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw. Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.

I guess you're...

http://boards.420chan.org/tech/src/1447870006810.jpg

Bob Villa wrote in
:


Thanks Walt, but if I want one that doesn't fit...I can get it
locally! The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw.
Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.

Have you tried a local motor rebuild shop or a brush supplier?

It won't be cheap, unless you get lucky and find one of a standard size.

Puckdropper

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.



One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
would not be the culprit for the auto brake.

FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
kick in.

It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.

On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Bob, these brushes fit my 36-220 perfectly, without any need of filing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-set-fo...-/191871428040

http://www.normstools.com/images/nor...s/36-220.shtml

On 05/13/2016 12:55 PM, Leon wrote:
....

One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
would not be the culprit for the auto brake.
....

+233

--

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 12:56:07 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.



One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
would not be the culprit for the auto brake.

FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
kick in.

It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.

Thanks!

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 12:56:41 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Bob, these brushes fit my 36-220 perfectly, without any need of filing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-set-fo...-/191871428040

http://www.normstools.com/images/nor...s/36-220.shtml

Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show wink! Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.

On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
brand.

New stuff is cheaper if you buy cheap or inexpensive equipment, you
get what you pay for most of the time. Your old high speed blades, for
instance, suck when compared to the newer carbide saw blades.

So nothing is wrong with your saw, if you want it to slow down faster
then when you turn the power off, start cutting a piece of scrap wood,
it will stop real fast.

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:


The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
brand.


Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes....and try the saw again."
(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)

On 13 May 2016 16:27:27 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Bob Villa wrote in
:


Thanks Walt, but if I want one that doesn't fit...I can get it
locally! The proper size will allow safe operation of the saw.
Otherwise it won't stop the blade on trigger release.

Have you tried a local motor rebuild shop or a brush supplier?

It won't be cheap, unless you get lucky and find one of a standard size.

Puckdropper

They usually stock various sizes, then file to fit if necessary.
Usually a one hour minimum and they will clean it at the same time.
Most will also megger (meg-ohm) the motor to check for life
expectancy.

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:55:02 PM UTC-5, Bob Villa wrote:
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:


The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
brand.


Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes....and try the saw again."
(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)

I have printed-out the manual for the 36-220, and there are no instructions for the brake problem.

On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:11:15 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa wrote:

Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show wink!

Yea, the show had to let you go because of your inability to measure in imperial units,
the way God intended grin!

Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.

DIMENSIONS NEW A 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894

Is this you from '09, Bob?
https://forums.ereplacementparts.com...-type-2-a.html

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:11:15 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa wrote:

Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show wink!

Yea, the show had to let you go because of your inability to measure in imperial units,
the way God intended grin!

Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.

DIMENSIONS NEW A 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894

Is this you from '09, Bob?
https://forums.ereplacementparts.com...-type-2-a.html

Norm, are those measurements from the OEM brushes or the ones from eBay?

No, that wasn't me, but the information was useful. Thanks!

On Fri, 13 May 2016 06:39:50 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:46:06 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:

...this is an old saw. Sears and other sites say brushes are unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't know everything!)
Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191871428040

They say they're for that saw, but 1/4" is quite different from 7mm.
Ans where does it say the original brushes are 0.276 inches??
And did the e-bay seller neasure with a micrometer, a caliper, a
ruler, or a tape measure? They are listed as replacement brushes for
Delta products including the model in question.

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:

Thanks, all I can say is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.

DIMENSIONS NEW A 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894

Those measurements are the same as mine...thanks for that link!

On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.
A bad switch, or the wrong switch, will cause the dynamic braking to
fail. The switch has to short the motor wires when the power is
removed, turning the motor into a generator working into a short
circuit. Some have a diode and Capacitor in the "SHORT"

On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:


The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
brand.


Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes...and try the saw again."
(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)
The "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and
off four or five times" indicates the switch problem is a more common
cause than the brushes.

On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:


The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
brand.


Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes...and try the saw again."
(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)

My apologies Bob, I assumed that when you said old saw and unavailable
saw that you meant a table or radial arm saw. And that if the brushes
were bad then it wouldn't run. Now you are speaking as if it does have
a brake (newer) and it is possibly a sliding Compound saw.

So I jumped to conclusions that I shouldn't have. Perhaps the next
time when you post you could include all this information up front?

At this point are you even sure you have a braking system on it?

On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:


The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down.
New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better
brand.


Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes...and try the saw again."
(I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)

My apologies, I assumed you said old as in antiquity, and the parts
were no longer available. Now you speak of a braking system, newer and
so on.

Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up
front?

On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 12:00:08 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa

Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up
front?

Title has all the info: Compound Miter Saw, and the model? Isn't 23 yrs old for a power tool?

On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at
this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks
have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be
nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper
and doesn't last.



One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
would not be the culprit for the auto brake.

FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
kick in.

It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.


Bingo!

My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.

When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
grrrr...)


-BR

On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 9:14:50 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:
On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:

It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.


Bingo!

My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.

When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
grrrr...)


-BR

Thanks, as far as I know, the switch is also obsolete!

On Sat, 14 May 2016 05:08:22 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 12:00:08 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa

Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up
front?

Title has all the info: Compound Miter Saw, and the model? Isn't 23 yrs old for a power tool?

'93? Not particularly old, no. My RAS is almost 20 years older than
that. I bought it new, so it's not like I buy antique tools.

On Sat, 14 May 2016 04:28:32 -0700, Woody Sawyer
wrote:

Taking unto itself the majesty of ignorance, on or about Fri, 13 May 2016,
the buffoon known as OFWW spake thusly:

My apologies Bob, I assumed that when you said old saw and unavailable
saw that you meant a table or radial arm saw. And that if the brushes
were bad then it wouldn't run. Now you are speaking as if it does have
a brake (newer) and it is possibly a sliding Compound saw.


Oh PUHLEEZE!
Are you even vaguely cognizant of just how ****ing stupid your replys look?

\\\||///
+==== HINT ================++
///||\\\ ||
\/

"Brushes for a Delta 36-220 CMS ==== (Compound Miter Saw)

/\
\\\||/// ||
+==== HINT ================++
///||\\\

How does it feel to swim in the fountain of your own STUPIDITY?

So I jumped to conclusions that I shouldn't have. Perhaps the next
time when you post you could include all this information up front?

Perhaps next time you should just fight the urge to bestow your idiocy upon
threads that are clearly beyond your grasp.

.....and you are going to build your own kitchen cabinets?

BWAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

Sitting behind a keyboard, flaming like a child. How cool is that?

Why didn't you look up the manual for yourself. I just did, and he
could have as well. Yes, it does have an electric brake, of sorts,
like many others it turns the motor into a generator and
electronically shorts it out in that mode. May yours sink itself
through the saw and enlighten your day.

He could have looked it up for himself instead of the merry go round
of his replies. Took me all of 20 seconds to do.

When the OP says Sears, I assume that is what he means regardless of
the subject post.

On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:32:27 -0700, OFWW
wrote:

He could have looked it up for himself instead of the merry go round
of his replies. Took me all of 20 seconds to do.

When the OP says Sears, I assume that is what he means regardless of
the subject post.

Welcome to the troll go round, note the names.

On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:14:47 -0600, Brewster wrote:

On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at
this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks
have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be
nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper
and doesn't last.



One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
would not be the culprit for the auto brake.

FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
kick in.

It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.


Bingo!

My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.

When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
grrrr...)


-BR

Now that I know what their braking system is, I would like to
recommend this.

Take the motor off, take it to a motor shop for a cleanup, and have
the armature dressed up and new brushes then installed.

Motor brushes by their nature eat into the armature and the brushes
set the way they normally run. When the Motor operation is turned into
a generator it is now operating on brushes with a partial seating.

It also could be a faulty diode, etc. but then the brake would never
work once one of those components failed.

http://slmti.com/windings/windingpics/dcarm.jpg

If you look at this picture the shiny copper portion is the armature,
each section separated by mica and has a slight indentation, like a
1/16 th of an inch or so. Usually a saw blade can cut it down, the
copper needs to be round, best done on a lathe.

Old guys with 6 volt generators and starters would know this as well
as any electricians if they worked on their own cars.

Just wanted to pass a little on.

On Fri, 13 May 2016 05:24:28 -0700 (PDT)
Bob Villa wrote:

unavailable...has anyone found another source? (Bob Villa doesn't
know everything!) Thanks.

ask norm
he was the shop steward
you will need to open your wallet

Brewster wrote in :


Bingo!

My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.

When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
grrrr...)


-BR


My Kobalt never did work properly. Reseating the brushes occasionally
helps, but it still doesn't work every time. So maybe it's the switch?

If I play with the switch, the brake does activate. Even if I don't,
though, it's a 15-30 second spin down so not too bad.

Puckdropper

On Sat, 14 May 2016 05:08:22 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 12:00:08 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa

Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up
front?

Title has all the info: Compound Miter Saw, and the model? Isn't 23 yrs old for a power tool?
It's a lot newer than a lot of mine. For tools made in the eighties
or before, 23 yerars is not old at all. It is "the prime of life". For
most tools today, thinking about them in use 23 years from now is
dilusional.

On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:14:47 -0600, Brewster wrote:

On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2016 11:57 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

Bottom line, if you are clueless about this, then take it to a local
motor shop for repair so that you can get full Hp usage out of it, but
then if you bought a reasonable quality motor replacement it will not
cost you much more and you'll save on operating costs, plus you'll
have new sealed bearings instead of what you have now.

The bottom line here, so far, is there are none available. Mine, at
this point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks
have suggested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be
nice if it was safer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper
and doesn't last.



One might think that if the saw starts and runs well that the brushes
would not be the culprit for the auto brake.

FWIW I have a Delta CPMS that is getting very long in the tooth. The
auto brake never worked consistently but if I squeezed the
trigger/switch a time or two as it was coasting down the brake would
kick in.

It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.


Bingo!

My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.

When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
grrrr...)


-BR
A new switch, or a modification to use a sealed relay to control both
power and braking - with the relay operated by the switch, will solve
the problem over 90% of the time. That switch operates under extrreme
conditions of dirt and vibration and is subject to atnmospheric
conditions dust, sweat, dirt and oils that are very destructive - and
the contacts NEED to handle not only the running current, the starting
surges AND the brake current (which is often as high as or higher than
the starting current)

Same problem on electric lawn mowers. The switch is the problem in the
vast majority of cases - and the whole mlawnmower gets sent to the
curb because of an inedequately designed switch.

On Sat, 14 May 2016 08:10:13 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 9:14:50 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:
On 5/13/16 11:55 AM, Leon wrote:

It may very well be the switch that needs to be cleaned out.


Bingo!

My Delta CMS had the same problem. The motor brake quit.

When the trigger is released, the brushes are effectively shorted by the
switch to act as a brake. Cleaning the switch fixed it (for a while,
grrrr...)


-BR

Thanks, as far as I know, the switch is also obsolete!
Install a relay, like the factory should have in the first place.

Another option is to do like I did with my Milwaukee Sawz-All when the
pitman assembly broke. The service depot said parts no longer
available. I said what model superceded this model? What's different
on it? All the cases were the same - the motor was the same, but the
entire piman assembly was different. Same case. Whats stopping me from
putting in a whole new pitman assembly? I needed about 3/4 of it
anyways - so the additional few parts to update to the new system
ammounted to a few bucks.

The switch from a newer model may fit perfectly - or may require
modifying a connector, or simply using a longer screw (I've had that
happen too)

On 5/14/2016 5:09 PM, wrote:


The switch from a newer model may fit perfectly - or may require
modifying a connector, or simply using a longer screw (I've had that
happen too)



Another post with missing information. Where do you get the screw?
Does it have to be Delta OEM? What if it is metric and I don't have a
metric screwdriver. Can you post a link to a website with a work-around?

On Sat, 14 May 2016 20:02:08 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 5/14/2016 5:09 PM, wrote:


The switch from a newer model may fit perfectly - or may require
modifying a connector, or simply using a longer screw (I've had that
happen too)



Another post with missing information. Where do you get the screw?
Does it have to be Delta OEM? What if it is metric and I don't have a
metric screwdriver. Can you post a link to a website with a work-around?
In the case of my milwaukee cutoff saw it was the opposite - The
original handle parts were no longer available - so I installed the
handle from the next version of the saw, and needed the screw from the
old switch - if I remeber correctly which was missing from the broken
handle. IIRC I ordered both screws because I didn't know which would
be required. The new handle specified a different switch but the old
one fit

I could have likely gotten away with a salvaged or hardware screw and
a bit of tinkering but the OEM screws were available for something
like a ridiculous $1.25 each .