never tried these but like the idea but a little but pricey

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=24751286

would come in handy from time to time for a big project that needs
clamping

then when you are done you can use the 2 bys for something else

On 3/4/2016 10:21 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
never tried these but like the idea but a little but pricey

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=24751286

would come in handy from time to time for a big project that needs
clamping

then when you are done you can use the 2 bys for something else


Less expensive still,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

On 3/4/2016 11:21 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
never tried these but like the idea but a little but pricey

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=24751286

would come in handy from time to time for a big project that needs
clamping then when you are done you can use the 2 bys for something
else

That picture looks like it was set up by the art department. I would
have to assume that any woodworker would position the movable jaw such
that the crank handle was past the end of the 2x4. What a pain it would
be to tighten it where it is now.

I'm pretty sure you could get 3/4" pipe clamp hardware + a pretty long
pipe for about the same amount.

On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 1:50:28 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 3/4/2016 11:21 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
never tried these but like the idea but a little but pricey

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=24751286

would come in handy from time to time for a big project that needs
clamping then when you are done you can use the 2 bys for something
else

That picture looks like it was set up by the art department. I would
have to assume that any woodworker would position the movable jaw such
that the crank handle was past the end of the 2x4. What a pain it would
be to tighten it where it is now.

Slide, turn, slide, turn, slide, turn. I've often had to position C-clamps such that I
couldn't make full turns with the handle.


I'm pretty sure you could get 3/4" pipe clamp hardware + a pretty long
pipe for about the same amount.

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


Slide, turn, slide, turn, slide, turn. I've often had to position
C-clamps such that I couldn't make full turns with the handle.


Ever thought about drilling and tapping the end so you could put a piece of
threaded rod and a nut in there? Or filing off a hex pattern so you can
get a socket on there? Some red loctite would probably hold just fine in
both directions. That way, you could turn it with a socket wrench.

I realize not every C-clamp has enough meat on the end to make this
possible. And that the lead screw could be hardened...

Puckdropper

On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 6:11:32 PM UTC-5, wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in
:


Slide, turn, slide, turn, slide, turn. I've often had to position
C-clamps such that I couldn't make full turns with the handle.


Ever thought about drilling and tapping the end so you could put a piece of
threaded rod and a nut in there? Or filing off a hex pattern so you can
get a socket on there? Some red loctite would probably hold just fine in
both directions. That way, you could turn it with a socket wrench.

I realize not every C-clamp has enough meat on the end to make this
possible. And that the lead screw could be hardened...

Puckdropper

I'm not looking to modify any C-clamps, I was merely pointing out that it wouldn't
really be all that much of a pain to use that clamp even if the jaw was positioned
In the middle of the 2x4.

I bought a pair of Lee Valley wonder dogs for my bench:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...37,41645,31129

When I needed some long clamps, I just dripped some 3/4 holes in a twoby. What's nice about these is you can raise them to easily turn the handle.

Larry

On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 6:59:07 PM UTC-6, Gramps' shop wrote:
I bought a pair of Lee Valley wonder dogs for my bench:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...37,41645,31129

When I needed some long clamps, I just dripped some 3/4 holes in a twoby. What's nice about these is you can raise them to easily turn the handle.

Larry

That's drilled, not dripped. Haven't figured out how to drip a hole yet, but working on it.

I use 'kan't twist' C clamps that were designed by Navy retired
for the Navy.

Normally used on metal for clamping and welding or drilling.
I have 1" to large 10" or maybe 8". I use them when I need to clamp.

http://www.amazon.com/Kant-Twist-415.../dp/B0007KXNJS 4 1/2"

The center grove clamping face can be rotated 180 to be a flat on one
or both.

And they are powerful. MSC sells them and amazon sellers.

I'm using mine to clamp 4x4 and 2x6 oak boards so I can drill and screw.


Martin

On 3/4/2016 4:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 1:50:28 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 3/4/2016 11:21 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
never tried these but like the idea but a little but pricey

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=24751286

would come in handy from time to time for a big project that needs
clamping then when you are done you can use the 2 bys for something
else

That picture looks like it was set up by the art department. I would
have to assume that any woodworker would position the movable jaw such
that the crank handle was past the end of the 2x4. What a pain it would
be to tighten it where it is now.

Slide, turn, slide, turn, slide, turn. I've often had to position C-clamps such that I
couldn't make full turns with the handle.


I'm pretty sure you could get 3/4" pipe clamp hardware + a pretty long
pipe for about the same amount.

On Fri, 4 Mar 2016 16:59:04 -0800 (PST)
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

When I needed some long clamps, I just dripped some 3/4 holes in a
twoby. What's nice about these is you can raise them to easily turn
the handle.

i have some of these
this is a good idea