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#1
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.)
It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread? I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece. Any advice from you experts is appreciated! |
#2
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#3
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#4
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#5
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 12:57:23 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 09:51:18 -0800 (PST), wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. ... I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? Use stainless stee, althread and a few Bellville washers to allow the block the expand and shring without loosing tension. Bore flat-bottomed holes for the nuts/washers - stainless washer against the wood - pair or 2 of bellvilles, then the nut. That's good advice, but probably a Belleville washer won't be rust-resistant, I'd use rubber washers instead, from neoprene gasket sheets. You don't want the high stress a 3/8" rod would provide, 1/4" -20 or #10-32 would be plenty. |
#6
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 15:02:56 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote: On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 12:57:23 PM UTC-8, wrote: On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 09:51:18 -0800 (PST), wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. ... I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? Use stainless stee, althread and a few Bellville washers to allow the block the expand and shring without loosing tension. Bore flat-bottomed holes for the nuts/washers - stainless washer against the wood - pair or 2 of bellvilles, then the nut. That's good advice, but probably a Belleville washer won't be rust-resistant, I'd use rubber washers instead, from neoprene gasket sheets. You don't want the high stress a 3/8" rod would provide, 1/4" -20 or #10-32 would be plenty. They do make stainless steel Bellevilles. Very common in food and chemical production equipment, as well as agressive steem and caustic manufacturing environments (and marine use) |
#7
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#8
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 09:51:18 -0800 (PST)
wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.) It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. it will be heavy from hard maple at that size woodchucker has a good plan you could also do end grain style |
#10
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
... On 12/7/2015 12:51 PM, wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.) It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread? I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece. Any advice from you experts is appreciated! It would be nice to make something for mom. Mom would also like to brag to her friends what a nice boy you are and make her such a nice cutting board. Then there is practicality. If this is a utilitarian board to be primarily a work piece, as opposed to a fancy board with decorative qualities, buy, don't build. Considering the price of wood, the labor involved, mass produced boards make sense, especially if it is just used for butchering possums she traps. http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/...MABB8/10006983 Don't know if they have maple, but not a bad price for oak http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/ If its utilitarian buy a piece of HDPE and be done with it. The stuff is cheap enough I buy it as stock for cutting plastic parts on the CNC mill. |
#11
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 19:58:39 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/7/2015 12:51 PM, wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.) It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread? I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece. Any advice from you experts is appreciated! It would be nice to make something for mom. Mom would also like to brag to her friends what a nice boy you are and make her such a nice cutting board. Then there is practicality. If this is a utilitarian board to be primarily a work piece, as opposed to a fancy board with decorative qualities, buy, don't build. Considering the price of wood, the labor involved, mass produced boards make sense, especially if it is just used for butchering possums she traps. http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/...MABB8/10006983 Don't know if they have maple, but not a bad price for oak http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/ Some pretty good Bamboo boards out here too at reasonable prices -(mabee not cheaper than you can make one with hardwood scraps, if you value your time at more than 2 bits per hour, but close!!!) |
#12
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/7/2015 7:58 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/7/2015 12:51 PM, wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.) It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread? I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece. Any advice from you experts is appreciated! It would be nice to make something for mom. Mom would also like to brag to her friends what a nice boy you are and make her such a nice cutting board. Then there is practicality. If this is a utilitarian board to be primarily a work piece, as opposed to a fancy board with decorative qualities, buy, don't build. Considering the price of wood, the labor involved, mass produced boards make sense, especially if it is just used for butchering possums she traps. http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/...MABB8/10006983 Don't know if they have maple, but not a bad price for oak http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/ I would never use oak for food. The grain is too open pored for food. Maple, beech, Cherry, some others, but not oak. I don't see anything wrong with making it, I just don't see using SS all thread. Just wood. -- Jeff |
#13
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 22:54:34 -0500, woodchucker
wrote: Don't know if they have maple, but not a bad price for oak http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/ I would never use oak for food. The grain is too open pored for food. Maple, beech, Cherry, some others, but not oak. I don't see anything wrong with making it, I just don't see using SS all thread. Just wood. White oak manages to hold wine and booze in barrels for years. I'd not use red oak. |
#14
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 06:07:42 -0500
Ed Pawlowski wrote: White oak manages to hold wine and booze in barrels for years. I'd not use red oak. white oak imparts certain flavors into the wine as well |
#15
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 09:22:03 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote: On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 06:07:42 -0500 Ed Pawlowski wrote: White oak manages to hold wine and booze in barrels for years. I'd not use red oak. white oak imparts certain flavors into the wine as well Whisky too. |
#16
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/8/2015 6:07 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 22:54:34 -0500, woodchucker wrote: Don't know if they have maple, but not a bad price for oak http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/ I would never use oak for food. The grain is too open pored for food. Maple, beech, Cherry, some others, but not oak. I don't see anything wrong with making it, I just don't see using SS all thread. Just wood. White oak manages to hold wine and booze in barrels for years. I'd not use red oak. That's different. It's liquid, not food that needs to be cleaned out. The casks are for turning the booze into quality booze. Cutting boards on the other hand need to be cleaned of food, otherwise it will get rancid. -- Jeff |
#17
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 19:58:39 -0500
Ed Pawlowski wrote: labor involved, mass produced boards make sense, especially if it is just used for butchering possums she traps. dunno how anyone could use a store bought contraption to butcher possums on although i would like to see the ikea photos of the possum with one of their snazzy boards probably add that to the list of things that we will never see |
#18
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#19
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/7/2015 12:51 PM, wrote:
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.) It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread? I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece. Any advice from you experts is appreciated! No need for all-thread, or anything. Just glue it together. The trick is in the grain pattern and moisture levels of the wood. If the wood is quarter sawn, not much chance of warping. If the wood is going to warp, it will warp, or crack, one or the other, or both. If the wood is kiln dried, and flat to start with, chances are good it will not warp. You will read that alternating the end grain with cup up, and cup down will prevent the board from bowing, or cupping, but if the individual boards are wide enough, that will just cause a waving motion. Look for vertical end grain, and you will be good. If you can't find quarter sawn, or rift sawn boards, then alternate the end grain and cut the boards narrow, like under 2 inches and cross your fingers. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#20
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
I already have the hard maple boards. They have been sitting on a pallet in my garage for a year. The wood is kiln dried. Since it has been in my unheated but insulated garage, should I bring it in my house before building it? (To acclimate?)
Also, for some reason I have read people don't like it, but on the other smaller cutting boards I have built, I have had good luck with the poly glue that you use moisture to cure. It does foam out and make a mess, but I only have to glue one side and wet the other. It seems to work good for me anyway. On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 11:51:21 AM UTC-6, wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.) It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread? I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together.. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece. Any advice from you experts is appreciated! |
#21
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#22
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#23
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 06:42:26 -0800 (PST) wrote: I already have the hard maple boards. They have been sitting on a pallet in my garage for a year. The wood is kiln dried. Since it has been in my unheated but insulated garage, should I bring it in my house before building it? (To acclimate?) does not matter with kiln dried it remains pretty darn stable Kiln dried doesn't stay at whatever relative humidity to which it was deied, it assumes the RH of wereever it is. |
#24
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 12:53:10 -0500
"dadiOH" wrote: Kiln dried doesn't stay at whatever relative humidity to which it was deied, it assumes the RH of wereever it is. it is not going to matter with a small project like this |
#25
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#26
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/8/2015 9:42 AM, wrote:
Also, for some reason I have read people don't like it, but on the other smaller cutting boards I have built, I have had good luck with the poly glue that you use moisture to cure. It does foam out and make a mess, but I only have to glue one side and wet the other. It seems to work good for me anyway. I have cutting boards I made 40 years ago and use every single day that were glued up with Elmer's Cabinetmakers glue (yellow glue) I still use that stuff but now also use Titebond III, which is waterproof or water resistant. The Elmer's is not water proof at all but on a cutting board, with tight joints, it doesn't seem to matter much. I would use Titebond III today, it's a nice glue, cheap, easy to use. If I were gluing up something to store outside in the weather, I guess I'd go out and buy Titebond III, otherwise, use whatever you have, it will likely work, that's what I did 40 years ago and no problems whatsoever. If it comes apart, find a woodworker to repair it (you?). -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#27
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:31:21 -0500
Jack wrote: I have cutting boards I made 40 years ago and use every single day that were glued up with Elmer's Cabinetmakers glue (yellow glue) I still use that stuff but now also use Titebond III, which is i doubt the stuff frmo 40 years ago is formlated the same today |
#28
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:31:21 -0500 Jack wrote: I have cutting boards I made 40 years ago and use every single day that were glued up with Elmer's Cabinetmakers glue (yellow glue) I still use that stuff but now also use Titebond III, which is i doubt the stuff frmo 40 years ago is formlated the same today You're probably right, since you seem to know so much without even having ever done anything. I'd guess that the products from 40 years ago were far superior since manufacturers always eveolve their products to be worse as time goes on. -- -Mike- |
#29
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
I use it indoors. Ever hear of 80% RH after a flood or Rainstorm ?
We can open up the door and have to wait for the dehydrator works. My sister has water sprinklers that blew out with an over pressure on the water line. The furniture all but melted. doors off and falling down. Oh - they were at the mountain cabin for a week. Came back with 2" of water in the house and a flood pouring out ever where. It was a massive insurance claim the insurance man did - they installed a pressure regulator on the house as well. Martin On 12/9/2015 9:31 AM, Jack wrote: On 12/8/2015 9:42 AM, wrote: Also, for some reason I have read people don't like it, but on the other smaller cutting boards I have built, I have had good luck with the poly glue that you use moisture to cure. It does foam out and make a mess, but I only have to glue one side and wet the other. It seems to work good for me anyway. I have cutting boards I made 40 years ago and use every single day that were glued up with Elmer's Cabinetmakers glue (yellow glue) I still use that stuff but now also use Titebond III, which is waterproof or water resistant. The Elmer's is not water proof at all but on a cutting board, with tight joints, it doesn't seem to matter much. I would use Titebond III today, it's a nice glue, cheap, easy to use. If I were gluing up something to store outside in the weather, I guess I'd go out and buy Titebond III, otherwise, use whatever you have, it will likely work, that's what I did 40 years ago and no problems whatsoever. If it comes apart, find a woodworker to repair it (you?). |
#30
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
One other thing, I will have to somehow plane the final product without my planer as it will be too wide. Has anyone ever successfully planed something completely flat where it will not rock on a countertop with a few boards and a router?
On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 11:51:21 AM UTC-6, wrote: I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.) It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides. I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems? If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread? I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece. Any advice from you experts is appreciated! |
#31
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#32
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 12/8/2015 8:44 AM, wrote: One other thing, I will have to somehow plane the final product without my planer as it will be too wide. Has anyone ever successfully planed something completely flat where it will not rock on a countertop with a few boards and a router? Just be careful when gluing up the sections that will fit in the planer, use dowels, biscuits, or Domino's for registration of the mating surfaces to create the final size. Then use a ROS or belt sander to finish off. I Typically a kitchen towel under the cutting board will help prevent rocking if it is warped. I also use the clear rubber/silicone cabinet door bumpers in the bottom of the cutting boards. I use the 1/2" diameter by 1/8" thick style. I drill a 1/2" diameter flat bottom hole on the 4 corners just deep enough to prevent the bumpers from slipping and relocating. Then I test on the counter top and gently hand sand the bumper that stands tall. Although, if I recall correctly, the OP mentioned that both sides of the board were required to be usable. |
#33
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/8/2015 10:10 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes: On 12/8/2015 8:44 AM, wrote: One other thing, I will have to somehow plane the final product without my planer as it will be too wide. Has anyone ever successfully planed something completely flat where it will not rock on a countertop with a few boards and a router? Just be careful when gluing up the sections that will fit in the planer, use dowels, biscuits, or Domino's for registration of the mating surfaces to create the final size. Then use a ROS or belt sander to finish off. I Typically a kitchen towel under the cutting board will help prevent rocking if it is warped. I also use the clear rubber/silicone cabinet door bumpers in the bottom of the cutting boards. I use the 1/2" diameter by 1/8" thick style. I drill a 1/2" diameter flat bottom hole on the 4 corners just deep enough to prevent the bumpers from slipping and relocating. Then I test on the counter top and gently hand sand the bumper that stands tall. Although, if I recall correctly, the OP mentioned that both sides of the board were required to be usable. Yeah, I forgot about that. Just use a Kitchen towel between it and the counter top if there is an issue. |
#34
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 06:44:51 -0800 (PST)
wrote: One other thing, I will have to somehow plane the final product without my planer as it will be too wide. Has anyone ever glue it up so you have two halves that will fit in your planer once you have them equal thickness do the final glue up just keep it flat and do not clamp too tight |
#35
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
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#36
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/8/2015 9:44 AM, wrote:
One other thing, I will have to somehow plane the final product without my planer as it will be too wide. Has anyone ever successfully planed something completely flat where it will not rock on a countertop with a few boards and a router? If you plane both halves with a planer, you should have no trouble gluing them up with nothing more than a bit of sanding as both sides should be equal thickness. If you need to plane it again with a router, something is really, really wrong. A light sanding or just a card scraper is all you should need. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#37
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
Back on the topic of glue and stainless rods, I have a cabinet maker buddy that makes and sells cutting boards with his scraps. He swears he makes as much on his boards as he does the cabinets...
He uses "Eco Glue" and has for about 10 years. He warrants his cutting boards again separation at the joints for life! He has been using it in his business for about 20 years and he told me over time he has just gotten better with a couple of reformulations. He told me that since he switched to that, he has NEVER had a joint fail that he glued with Eco Glue, not a cutting board, counter top or cabinet. Robert |
#38
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/9/2015 9:47 AM, wrote:
Back on the topic of glue and stainless rods, I have a cabinet maker buddy that makes and sells cutting boards with his scraps. He swears he makes as much on his boards as he does the cabinets... He uses "Eco Glue" and has for about 10 years. He warrants his cutting boards again separation at the joints for life! He has been using it in his business for about 20 years and he told me over time he has just gotten better with a couple of reformulations. He told me that since he switched to that, he has NEVER had a joint fail that he glued with Eco Glue, not a cutting board, counter top or cabinet. Robert Rovert, could that be Eco-Bond Adhesives? http://ecobondadhesives.com/ |
#39
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Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?
On 12/9/2015 11:24 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/9/2015 9:47 AM, wrote: Back on the topic of glue and stainless rods, I have a cabinet maker buddy that makes and sells cutting boards with his scraps. He swears he makes as much on his boards as he does the cabinets... He uses "Eco Glue" and has for about 10 years. He warrants his cutting boards again separation at the joints for life! He has been using it in his business for about 20 years and he told me over time he has just gotten better with a couple of reformulations. He told me that since he switched to that, he has NEVER had a joint fail that he glued with Eco Glue, not a cutting board, counter top or cabinet. Robert Rovert, could that be Eco-Bond Adhesives? http://ecobondadhesives.com/ Or maybe this. http://www.thegreenproductscompany.c...ive/egwood.htm |
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