[snafu[_3_]]

I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

[Ed Huntress]

On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote:

I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use --
Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics.

--
Ed Huntress

[Leon Fisk]

On Mon, 11 May 2015 08:43:56 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use --
Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics.

And I'll second that from experience. Loctite would be a big mistake...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

[[email protected]]

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive.

Dan

[snafu[_3_]]

On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 08:43:56 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use --
Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics.

And I'll second that from experience. Loctite would be a big mistake...



Thanks, I didn't know that. I was thinking of one of the Sika urethane
adhesives perhaps.

[snafu[_3_]]

On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive.

Dan


Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply soften the
PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent has evaporated. It's an
easy test so I should give it a go. Thanks.

[Carl Ijames[_8_]]

Most threadlockers and pipe dopes specifically warn against use on
thermoplastics (like PVC) and will eventually cause cracking. Gasoila has
one pipe sealant product that is rated for use on plastics
(www.mscdirect.com if you can't get it locally and to find the part # :-)),
you could use that if you can't find a better threadlocker that is safe. We
used a lot of it on plastic and mixed plastic-stainless steel NPT fittings,
and while it doesn't set up rock hard I think it would be better than bare
threads.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames carl.ijames aat deletethis verizon dott net

"snafu" wrote in message
...

I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

[[email protected]]

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive.

Dan


Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply soften the
PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent has evaporated. It's an
easy test so I should give it a go. Thanks.

It might work better if the threads are rough rother than nice smooth surfaces.

Dan

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote:

I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

If it has a hex area above the thread, perhaps you could plastic-weld
some more PVC material up around that to keep it from unscrewing.

--
Try not to become a man of success but
rather try to become a man of value.
--Albert Einstein

[Gunner Asch[_6_]]

On Mon, 11 May 2015 09:03:49 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Mon, 11 May 2015 08:43:56 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
I can't tell you what to use, but I can tell you what NOT to use --
Loctite. It attacks most thermoplastics.

And I'll second that from experience. Loctite would be a big mistake...


CA or Epoxy should do it well enough

Gunner

[Gunner Asch[_6_]]

On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:03:58 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive.

Dan

Thats not so much an adhesive as a solvent. It disolves the PVC to a
certain depth and then when the two surfaces melt together..the
reaction ends and they solidify together

[[email protected]]

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive.

Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply
soften the PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent
has evaporated. It's an easy test so I should give it a go.
Thanks.

Tell an Electrical Supply store that you need to see their NMC fittings.

[snafu[_3_]]

On 11-May-15 9:57 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote:

I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

If it has a hex area above the thread, perhaps you could plastic-weld
some more PVC material up around that to keep it from unscrewing.

--
Try not to become a man of success but
rather try to become a man of value.
--Albert Einstein



Good idea - unfortunately its cylindrical.

[Steve W.[_4_]]

snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per
width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a
drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size.
(1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC
welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it
into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move.
Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread
inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC.
That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector
and turn it to shear the PVC spline.

--
Steve W.

[snafu[_3_]]

On 12-May-15 11:23 AM, Steve W. wrote:
snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded
into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the
shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per
width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a
drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size.
(1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC
welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it
into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move.
Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread
inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC.
That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector
and turn it to shear the PVC spline.



That's a great idea but there is likely to be 1000 of these made (I
should have mentioned that earlier). I'll save the idea for next time
I've got a use for it.

[William Graves]

On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple
materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning
795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches.
It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet.

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Tue, 12 May 2015 11:05:25 +0800, snafu wrote:

On 11-May-15 9:57 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 20:23:08 +0800, snafu wrote:

I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

If it has a hex area above the thread, perhaps you could plastic-weld
some more PVC material up around that to keep it from unscrewing.

Good idea - unfortunately its cylindrical.

Then I'd try epoxy.

--
Try not to become a man of success but
rather try to become a man of value.
--Albert Einstein

[snafu[_3_]]

On 12-May-15 9:47 PM, William Graves wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple
materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning
795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches.
It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet.



I'll check it out - gave me an idea - I might look at Sika 291, its a
urethane adhesive that I *know* sticks very well to PVC & stainless.

[Ed Huntress]

On Wed, 13 May 2015 21:34:39 +0800, snafu wrote:

On 12-May-15 9:47 PM, William Graves wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple
materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning
795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches.
It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet.



I'll check it out - gave me an idea - I might look at Sika 291, its a
urethane adhesive that I *know* sticks very well to PVC & stainless.

Part of the question here is whether you want to *permanently* lock
those threads, or if you want to be able to disassemble the joints in
the future. The commercial thread-lockers, including both Loctite
acrylics and the commerical epoxy beads used in production, are
calibrated to keep a tight joint and to tolerate a lot of vibration,
but also to have a low breakaway shear strength that allows the joint
to be unscrewed when necessary. Loctite, for example, comes in
different degrees of breakaway shear strength for different jobs.

If you don't care about future disassembly, ordinary household
two-part epoxy should do the job. The amine hardener is pretty active,
however; I've never checked to see which plastics are safe with it,
but it should be easy to Google. Unlike the epoxy beads made
specifically for thread-locking, household epoxies are not made for
specific breakaway shear strength.

If you do want to be able to disassemble, I'd go for one of the gooey
pipe-thread sealants. I've used a liquid Teflon-containing sealant for
decades, and it both locks joints tightly and allows joints to be
unscrewed. I have them all over my house, in plumbing and (hot water)
heating, and they work perfectly. I have some of them on metal-to-PVC
threaded joints and I've never noticed any deterioration of the PVC.

You application doesn't sound particularly demanding. It should be
easy to find some sealant that has decent joint strength without
permanently binding the joint, and without destroying your PVC. Read
the labels on the tubes in some hardware-store plumbing departments.
They'll probably answer the PVC question.

--
Ed Huntress

[RangersSuck]

On Tuesday, May 12, 2015 at 2:06:34 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 12-May-15 11:23 AM, Steve W. wrote:
snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded
into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the
shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per
width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a
drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size.
(1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC
welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it
into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move.
Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread
inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC.
That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector
and turn it to shear the PVC spline.



That's a great idea but there is likely to be 1000 of these made (I
should have mentioned that earlier). I'll save the idea for next time
I've got a use for it.

That IS a great idea. You could also
1) score the threads on the connector with a mill, a dremel wheel or even a file - just rough ' em up.
2) make the hole in the pvc just a little bit tight.
3) Apply a PVC solvent cement to soften it a bit, then screw in the connector.

The PVC ought to deform into the score marks.

[DoN. Nichols[_2_]]

On 2015-05-11, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

[ ... ]

No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive.

[ ... ]

Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply soften the
PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent has evaporated. It's an
easy test so I should give it a go. Thanks.

It might work better if the threads are rough rother than nice smooth surfaces.

Hmm ... from the description, snipped a few posts upthread, the
connector sounds like a BNC. And it is common for those to have a
D-shaped threaded stem, so it will be non-rotating in a punched hole in
sheet metal. If so, then the solvent (not really an adhesive, I think)
would soften the hole and allow it to deform partially into the flat of
the 'D', so that would likely work.

As for the material of the connector -- assuming it is a real
BNC, it is likely a copper alloy, plated with either nickel for the low
grade ones, or with silver for the really high quality ones.

BTW The BNC is also supplied with a square flange with four corner
holes for screws, so you could drill and tap the holes for those
in the PVC if that would work better for you.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[[email protected]]

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

Chemical Bond: there is an adhesive for bonding ceramic 2 part delivery
injection type doser mixes the proper amount as it comes out.

The grit s will jam if it unscrews - thus locked.
or put sand in the threads. Glass beads etc.

Idea? groove , wet grit, assemble, let dry, slam down,
grit release, jams threads.

Eh?

[snafu[_3_]]

On 14-May-15 10:36 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-05-11, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

[ ... ]

No experience, but I would try the pvc pipe adhesive.

[ ... ]

Hi Dan, I thought of that too, but figured it would simply soften the
PVC which would then re-harden after the solvent has evaporated. It's an
easy test so I should give it a go. Thanks.

It might work better if the threads are rough rother than nice smooth surfaces.

Hmm ... from the description, snipped a few posts upthread, the
connector sounds like a BNC. And it is common for those to have a
D-shaped threaded stem, so it will be non-rotating in a punched hole in
sheet metal. If so, then the solvent (not really an adhesive, I think)
would soften the hole and allow it to deform partially into the flat of
the 'D', so that would likely work.

As for the material of the connector -- assuming it is a real
BNC, it is likely a copper alloy, plated with either nickel for the low
grade ones, or with silver for the really high quality ones.

BTW The BNC is also supplied with a square flange with four corner
holes for screws, so you could drill and tap the holes for those
in the PVC if that would work better for you.


Hey Don, it's a large bayonet style connector. It has half a dozen
conductors but uses a bayonet fitting about 2x the diameter of a BNC to
lock & seal. Judging by the price and the look of the thing I'm pretty
sure its a custom made connector housing.

[snafu[_3_]]

On 13-May-15 10:09 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 13 May 2015 21:34:39 +0800, snafu wrote:

On 12-May-15 9:47 PM, William Graves wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple
materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning
795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches.
It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet.



I'll check it out - gave me an idea - I might look at Sika 291, its a
urethane adhesive that I *know* sticks very well to PVC & stainless.

Part of the question here is whether you want to *permanently* lock
those threads, or if you want to be able to disassemble the joints in
the future. The commercial thread-lockers, including both Loctite
acrylics and the commerical epoxy beads used in production, are
calibrated to keep a tight joint and to tolerate a lot of vibration,
but also to have a low breakaway shear strength that allows the joint
to be unscrewed when necessary. Loctite, for example, comes in
different degrees of breakaway shear strength for different jobs.

If you don't care about future disassembly, ordinary household
two-part epoxy should do the job. The amine hardener is pretty active,
however; I've never checked to see which plastics are safe with it,
but it should be easy to Google. Unlike the epoxy beads made
specifically for thread-locking, household epoxies are not made for
specific breakaway shear strength.

If you do want to be able to disassemble, I'd go for one of the gooey
pipe-thread sealants. I've used a liquid Teflon-containing sealant for
decades, and it both locks joints tightly and allows joints to be
unscrewed. I have them all over my house, in plumbing and (hot water)
heating, and they work perfectly. I have some of them on metal-to-PVC
threaded joints and I've never noticed any deterioration of the PVC.

You application doesn't sound particularly demanding. It should be
easy to find some sealant that has decent joint strength without
permanently binding the joint, and without destroying your PVC. Read
the labels on the tubes in some hardware-store plumbing departments.
They'll probably answer the PVC question.



The epoxy is another route worth looking at. We already use an epoxy
with the same PVC ans it bonds quite well. It will actually break away
some of the PVC if you try to chip it off too fast. The main worry is
the connector is a bayonet style and we have concerned end users may
over tighten or not push inward when undoing them and force the
connector to unscrew rather than disconnect.

[Martin Eastburn]

You could always drill a hole in the back barrel and fill it with
the plastic - and solvent. Melt the rod/hole into the threads
by melting the small rod.

Martin

On 5/13/2015 9:27 AM, rangerssuck wrote:
On Tuesday, May 12, 2015 at 2:06:34 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 12-May-15 11:23 AM, Steve W. wrote:
snafu wrote:
I have a 1/2" x 20 UNF bayonet style electrical connector threaded
into PVC.

The PVC is the standard gray material bought as a round bar off the
shelf.

Mechanical constraints prevent using a locking nut or radial set screw
for retention.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Thanks.

Take the connector out. Mill a slot up one side to half of the depth per
width (1/8" wide slot Mill 1/16" deep). Install the connector and use a
drill bit to "transfer" the slot to the PVC and finish the hole to size.
(1/16" in the connector 1/16" in the ABS). Now take a chunk of PVC
welding rod or ??? that is 1/8" and apply some PVC glue and insert it
into the hole. Once it cures the connector won't move.
Basically a linear locking spline. Same idea as used on key lock thread
inserts. However instead of using the steel pins those use you have PVC.
That way if you ever did need to remove it you could heat the connector
and turn it to shear the PVC spline.



That's a great idea but there is likely to be 1000 of these made (I
should have mentioned that earlier). I'll save the idea for next time
I've got a use for it.

That IS a great idea. You could also
1) score the threads on the connector with a mill, a dremel wheel or even a file - just rough ' em up.
2) make the hole in the pvc just a little bit tight.
3) Apply a PVC solvent cement to soften it a bit, then screw in the connector.

The PVC ought to deform into the score marks.

[DoN. Nichols[_2_]]

On 2015-05-14, snafu wrote:
On 14-May-15 10:36 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-05-11, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

[ ... ]

Hmm ... from the description, snipped a few posts upthread, the
connector sounds like a BNC. And it is common for those to have a
D-shaped threaded stem, so it will be non-rotating in a punched hole in
sheet metal. If so, then the solvent (not really an adhesive, I think)
would soften the hole and allow it to deform partially into the flat of
the 'D', so that would likely work.

As for the material of the connector -- assuming it is a real
BNC, it is likely a copper alloy, plated with either nickel for the low
grade ones, or with silver for the really high quality ones.

[ ... ]

Hey Don, it's a large bayonet style connector. It has half a dozen
conductors but uses a bayonet fitting about 2x the diameter of a BNC to
lock & seal. Judging by the price and the look of the thing I'm pretty
sure its a custom made connector housing.

Oh -- multi-pin. Glass (light green) seal holding the pins, or
dark brouwn soft rubber?

Three bayonet ears instead of two?

If so -- it sounds like one of the MS series connectors, which
come both with solder cups (and a rubber strainer which is held in place
by screwing onto the back of the connector body -- usually with a metal
ring inside the shell), and with crimp-on pins, which are inserted from
the back of the connector into the soft rubber pin separator/supporter.

If glass seal, and bare metal finish, it is for soldering onto
the housing of hermetically sealed things like aircraft instruments.

But the thread at the back sounds like the ones made for as
screw-on back shell -- with or without a cable clamp, depending. If so,
that *should* have the rubber strainer through which each wire passes,
and which is then squeezed down by the back shell and ring, to make a
water-tight connection.

They used to be refrred to as "Bendix" connectors, but the line
is now produced by Canon -- and some by Deutch and other companies. All
at painful prices. :-)

If 6 pins, it should have moulded into the rubber separator some
number endig nin "-6" -- the number being the diameter of the mounting
hole in 16th of an inch IIRC. Maybe 32nds of an inch. I would have to
dig back into the catalog to be sure. The whole shell should have a
number staring with MS-??? which defines the style and shell size.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[snafu[_3_]]

On 17-May-15 9:45 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-05-14, snafu wrote:
On 14-May-15 10:36 AM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-05-11, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

[ ... ]

Hmm ... from the description, snipped a few posts upthread, the
connector sounds like a BNC. And it is common for those to have a
D-shaped threaded stem, so it will be non-rotating in a punched hole in
sheet metal. If so, then the solvent (not really an adhesive, I think)
would soften the hole and allow it to deform partially into the flat of
the 'D', so that would likely work.

As for the material of the connector -- assuming it is a real
BNC, it is likely a copper alloy, plated with either nickel for the low
grade ones, or with silver for the really high quality ones.

[ ... ]

Hey Don, it's a large bayonet style connector. It has half a dozen
conductors but uses a bayonet fitting about 2x the diameter of a BNC to
lock & seal. Judging by the price and the look of the thing I'm pretty
sure its a custom made connector housing.

Oh -- multi-pin. Glass (light green) seal holding the pins, or
dark brouwn soft rubber?

Three bayonet ears instead of two?

If so -- it sounds like one of the MS series connectors, which
come both with solder cups (and a rubber strainer which is held in place
by screwing onto the back of the connector body -- usually with a metal
ring inside the shell), and with crimp-on pins, which are inserted from
the back of the connector into the soft rubber pin separator/supporter.

If glass seal, and bare metal finish, it is for soldering onto
the housing of hermetically sealed things like aircraft instruments.

But the thread at the back sounds like the ones made for as
screw-on back shell -- with or without a cable clamp, depending. If so,
that *should* have the rubber strainer through which each wire passes,
and which is then squeezed down by the back shell and ring, to make a
water-tight connection.

They used to be refrred to as "Bendix" connectors, but the line
is now produced by Canon -- and some by Deutch and other companies. All
at painful prices. :-)

If 6 pins, it should have moulded into the rubber separator some
number endig nin "-6" -- the number being the diameter of the mounting
hole in 16th of an inch IIRC. Maybe 32nds of an inch. I would have to
dig back into the catalog to be sure. The whole shell should have a
number staring with MS-??? which defines the style and shell size.

Good Luck,
DoN.



No its not the Amphenol MS series. It's a 2 pin bayonet with a 1/2NF
threaded back end. The internal connector parts look like the small Lemo
stuff. It comes with flying leads potted in to the back end.

[Gunner Asch[_6_]]

On Tue, 12 May 2015 06:47:07 -0700, William Graves
wrote:

On Mon, 11 May 2015 06:34:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 9:10:21 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
On 11-May-15 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:23:10 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what chemical means might be
useful to lock or bond the (probably stainless) metal connector to the
PVC to prevent unscrewing?

Boat/Marine supply stores have tons of sealants that bond to multiple
materials including PVC and stainless. You might consider Dow Corning
795 - I have used it to bond plexiglass windows to stainless hatches.
It probably would work with PVC but check the materials sheet.

3M 5200 is about as good as it gets and is what Id recommend using. I
swear that stuff will stick moonbeams and unicorn farts together.
Seriously good ****. Taking it apart...that aint happening without
lots and lots of swearing, heat gun, torch, big wrenches and vises....

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4314622&rt=rud

Comes in tiny tubes, big tubes etc etc and its available all over.



Might want to read this

http://www.bindingsource.com/images/...tsBrochure.pdf