I built myself a mortising jig today. It still needs a couple of toggle
clamps and possibly one more stop for the work, but it's coming out
pretty well.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7628183501013/

The router moves smoothly laterally, and it's easy to set the mortise
length. I added a movable work guide underneath for more repeatable
results. And I made it to be held in my bench vise, which is very
convenient.

But ...

The thickness of the jig limits the depth of the mortise. Sort of
rethinking and rebuilding, the through mortises (in 1.5" stock) I'll
need will require extra-long bits.

I'm looking into something like this:

http://drillsandcutters.com/1-2-x-1-...mill-qualtech/

It claims 3" of cut depth. Comments?

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http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9


"Greg Guarino" wrote:

I built myself a mortising jig today. It still needs a couple of
toggle clamps and possibly one more stop for the work, but it's
coming out pretty well.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7628183501013/

The router moves smoothly laterally, and it's easy to set the
mortise length. I added a movable work guide underneath for more
repeatable results. And I made it to be held in my bench vise, which
is very convenient.

But ...

The thickness of the jig limits the depth of the mortise. Sort of
rethinking and rebuilding, the through mortises (in 1.5" stock) I'll
need will require extra-long bits.

I'm looking into something like this:

http://drillsandcutters.com/1-2-x-1-...mill-qualtech/

It claims 3" of cut depth. Comments?
----------------------------------------------------------
Your mounting plate could stop a Sherman tank.

I've built and used this one couple of times.

Simple and straight forward. No need to reinvent the wheelG.

http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9

Lew

Greg Guarino wrote in
:

*snip*


I'm looking into something like this:

http://drillsandcutters.com/1-2-x-1-...end-x-long-end
-mill-qualtech/

It claims 3" of cut depth. Comments?


Looking at the end, I don't believe it's center cutting. That's not a hard
problem to solve, though, just take a 1/2" drill bit and make a hole.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 4/13/2015 6:39 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote in
:

*snip*


I'm looking into something like this:

http://drillsandcutters.com/1-2-x-1-...end-x-long-end
-mill-qualtech/

It claims 3" of cut depth. Comments?


Looking at the end, I don't believe it's center cutting. That's not a hard
problem to solve, though, just take a 1/2" drill bit and make a hole.

Puckdropper

Yes, what about that? That's the common situation with end mills, from
what I hear; but some people recommend them for woodworking.
Incidentally, on that site they have used the same photo for all of the
products in that class, but I imagine the end, at least, is representative.

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Lew Hodgett wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9


"Greg Guarino" wrote:

It claims 3" of cut depth. Comments?
----------------------------------------------------------
Your mounting plate could stop a Sherman tank.

It does look pretty solid, doesn't it?

I've built and used this one couple of times.

Simple and straight forward. No need to reinvent the wheelG.

http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9

Ones I have made have been similar. Different in as much as I don't attach
to router but to work; moveable strips on top to limit router travel.
Similar because it is thin...1/4 hard board or ply.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 4/13/2015 12:37 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Your mounting plate could stop a Sherman tank.

I tried to make it for multiple uses. It's a dangerous world out
there. That is one feature of my nascent skills; what I lack in finesse
I make up in sturdiness.

I've built and used this one couple of times.

Simple and straight forward.

I like the fact that mine has defined stops, although I could imagine
how you could clamp stops to the work with the jig you show. If I can't
come up with a longer bit I might try that one.

No need to reinvent the wheelG.

At least half my output is in reinvented wheels.



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Greg Guarino wrote:

But ...

The thickness of the jig limits the depth of the mortise. Sort of
rethinking and rebuilding, the through mortises (in 1.5" stock) I'll
need will require extra-long bits.

If the cutting diameter = shank diameter, you can cut down a way, remove the
jig and cut the rest by guiding the bit shank on the hole.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 4/13/2015 7:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
The thickness of the jig limits the depth of the mortise. Sort of
rethinking and rebuilding, the through mortises (in 1.5" stock) I'll
need will require extra-long bits.

If the cutting diameter = shank diameter, you can cut down a way, remove the
jig and cut the rest by guiding the bit shank on the hole.

That sounds like a pain to do 16 times. I'd probably jsut opt for a
longer bit, or a thinner jig. But I'm curious to know if it's even safe.
Any opinions from the group?

On Monday, April 13, 2015 at 1:10:40 PM UTC-7, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 4/13/2015 7:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:
The thickness of the jig limits the depth of the mortise. Sort of
rethinking and rebuilding, the through mortises (in 1.5" stock) I'll
need will require extra-long bits.

If the cutting diameter = shank diameter, you can cut down a way, remove the
jig and cut the rest by guiding the bit shank on the hole.

That sounds like a pain to do 16 times. I'd probably jsut opt for a
longer bit, or a thinner jig. But I'm curious to know if it's even safe.
Any opinions from the group?

If you can trust the (round) base of your router, you can omit the plate and
guide bushing, guide with the external frame against the router base. A sub-base
can be made round, centered, and in any desired diameter by chucking a
dowel pin in the router, and pivoting the router on that pin - either a
second router, or a router table, can trim the edge of the subbase.

The subbase, of course, can have a 2" hole to clear the router chuck. And
if you make several of different diameters, changing them in will make a single
jig produce multiple mortise sizes.

I hear the wail of gotta-use-multiple-tools, and sympathize. A recent
bookshelf with half-dovetails needed five cuts per shelf end, with two different
router bits (half-dovetail, you know) and the 24 shelves took all weekend,
I've fantasized about multi-shaft circular saws with 1" blades to define the
sliding half-dovetail sidewalls.