I looked at the video of the guy making chopping blocks with the
laminate then cut then insert slice then laminate and repeat technique

doing a variation on this (not a choppingblock) and used the jigsaw
it's not a bad cut but it's not so clean that it only needs a light
sanding

Share your method for this step if you've used the technique.

didn't want to change my bandsaw blade to do this but maybe I should

On 2/4/2015 3:16 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I looked at the video of the guy making chopping blocks with the
laminate then cut then insert slice then laminate and repeat technique

doing a variation on this (not a choppingblock) and used the jigsaw
it's not a bad cut but it's not so clean that it only needs a light
sanding

Share your method for this step if you've used the technique.

didn't want to change my bandsaw blade to do this but maybe I should


Which video? I built 6 cutting boards in December with curvy laminated
veneers. It does involve much more than cutting with a BS and gluing if
your curved veneers are of significant thickness.


If your veneers are going to be curved you must remove as much material
as you plan to replace or the radius's will not be the same for mating
surfaces.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

On 2/4/2015 5:23 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/4/2015 3:16 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I looked at the video of the guy making chopping blocks with the
laminate then cut then insert slice then laminate and repeat technique

doing a variation on this (not a choppingblock) and used the jigsaw
it's not a bad cut but it's not so clean that it only needs a light
sanding

Share your method for this step if you've used the technique.

didn't want to change my bandsaw blade to do this but maybe I should


Which video? I built 6 cutting boards in December with curvy laminated
veneers. It does involve much more than cutting with a BS and gluing if
your curved veneers are of significant thickness.


If your veneers are going to be curved you must remove as much material
as you plan to replace or the radius's will not be the same for mating
surfaces.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897193448/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/15897346730/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/



Here is how to do what I did.

This was the video that taught me everything to do these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4

If this is what you are after, watch it several times and question every
thing. ;~)

Let me know if you have any "why" questions.

On Wed, 4 Feb 2015 13:16:34 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

I looked at the video of the guy making chopping blocks with the
laminate then cut then insert slice then laminate and repeat technique

doing a variation on this (not a choppingblock) and used the jigsaw
it's not a bad cut but it's not so clean that it only needs a light
sanding

Share your method for this step if you've used the technique.

didn't want to change my bandsaw blade to do this but maybe I should


Table saw with good sharp narrow kerf planer blade.

On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 19:12:04 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 4 Feb 2015 13:16:34 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

I looked at the video of the guy making chopping blocks with the
laminate then cut then insert slice then laminate and repeat technique

doing a variation on this (not a choppingblock) and used the jigsaw
it's not a bad cut but it's not so clean that it only needs a light
sanding

Share your method for this step if you've used the technique.

didn't want to change my bandsaw blade to do this but maybe I should


Table saw with good sharp narrow kerf planer blade.

OOPS. I missed it was curved - -

On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 17:23:24 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


Which video? I built 6 cutting boards in December with curvy

was a magazine video, don't recall which mag

If your veneers are going to be curved you must remove as much
material as you plan to replace or the radius's will not be the same
for mating surfaces.

I missed this detail will have to think a little on how to remedy

On 2/4/2015 9:00 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 17:23:24 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


Which video? I built 6 cutting boards in December with curvy

was a magazine video, don't recall which mag

If your veneers are going to be curved you must remove as much
material as you plan to replace or the radius's will not be the same
for mating surfaces.

I missed this detail will have to think a little on how to remedy


The video addresses that. I used 4, 1/8" veneers and removed 1/2" for
each location. I cut the veneers on the band saw and sanded down to
1/8" with a drum sander.
The trick to making a smooth cut in the board is to make a shallow cut
against a pattern with a 1/2" bit and cut in the resulting grove with a
BS. Then with a flush cut pattern bit against the shallow grove remove
the rest of the material.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

The trick to making a smooth cut in the board is to make a shallow cut
against a pattern with a 1/2" bit and cut in the resulting grove with a BS.
Then with a flush cut pattern bit against the shallow grove remove the rest
of the material.

I noticed that in the video... seems so obvious once someone points it out!
LOL

But then I've been playing with my shaper and doing pattern shaping. Maybe
because of that I am more tuned into what was in the video than some others
would be??

John

On 2/5/2015 8:55 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
...

The trick to making a smooth cut in the board is to make a shallow cut
against a pattern with a 1/2" bit and cut in the resulting grove with
a BS. Then with a flush cut pattern bit against the shallow grove
remove the rest of the material.

I noticed that in the video... seems so obvious once someone points it
out! LOL

But then I've been playing with my shaper and doing pattern shaping.
Maybe because of that I am more tuned into what was in the video than
some others would be??

John


I actually used a small flush cut bottom bearing bit in my small Makita
trim router to follow a pattern clamped to the cutting board. I took
out most of the remainder 1/2" wide grove with the BS so that my cleanup
cut with a 1-1/8" bottom bearing bit in the router table would not have
to do much but take out what was remaining, up to the previously made
grove using the trim router.

There are a lot of subtle things going on in the video that you need to
consider, as you have noticed. ;~) I think I watched the video 4~5
times to understand how he got to where ended up and why.

I do recall him switching to a smaller bit for to follow a pattern when
he wanted his inlay to be narrower.

On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 17:39:40 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:



This was the video that taught me everything to do these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4

I don't have those tools but that's the video I saw so I will
find a remedy with what I've got


something occurred to me though, those really fine inlays are going to
be sliced up over time and break free
it's beautiful work but the wrong application


I rarely use a router but I have two from days of old. There's bit he
uses on the curve face with a bearing on the end.
what's that doing?

On 2/5/2015 11:14 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 17:39:40 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:



This was the video that taught me everything to do these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4

I don't have those tools but that's the video I saw so I will
find a remedy with what I've got


something occurred to me though, those really fine inlays are going to
be sliced up over time and break free
it's beautiful work but the wrong application

Yeah but not a big problem though. They are glued in there so big
chunks don't come out. Obviously end grain boards have an advantage.



I rarely use a router but I have two from days of old. There's bit he
uses on the curve face with a bearing on the end.
what's that doing?


He actually works each cut of the panel in 3 steps.

With the hand held router he cuts a curved grove using the bearing on
the bit to follow the guide. This is strictly to establish the curve
and to give a smooth surface for the bit in the router table to
reference after cutting the panel in that grove.
He makes about a 1/4" deep cut.
This cut provides a smooth surface on both halves, after cutting apart
with the BS, which will be his reference surface for the flush cut
bearing bit in the router table to follow instead of the pattern.
Essentially this finishes off what the smaller bit started with the hand
held router.

"Electric Comet" wrote in message ...

something occurred to me though, those really fine inlays are going to
be sliced up over time and break free
it's beautiful work but the wrong application

They aren't really inlays per se because they are as thick as the base
material. As such, if the board does start looking exceptionally ratty it
wouldn't be a problem to use a card scraper, or something like a Stanley No
80, to clean up the surface.

I did that with the large maple cutting board countertop at my parents'
house... it had seen about 35-40 years of use and was cut up pretty badly.
That in itself wasn't too big of a deal until my mother put something on it
that caused the entire surface to become gummy... My brother tried to sand
it... Major Fail! I took it back to my shop and in short order had the
entire surface cleaned up with the No 80. I also applied mineral oil to the
surface. It looked like new and wasn't sticky any more.

Also, a cutting board like this may not be the everyday board...

John

"Leon" wrote in message
...

I actually used a small flush cut bottom bearing bit in my small Makita
trim router to follow a pattern clamped to the cutting board. I took out
most of the remainder 1/2" wide grove with the BS so that my cleanup cut
with a 1-1/8" bottom bearing bit in the router table would not have to do
much but take out what was remaining, up to the previously made grove using
the trim router.

There are a lot of subtle things going on in the video that you need to
consider, as you have noticed. ;~) I think I watched the video 4~5 times
to understand how he got to where ended up and why.

I do recall him switching to a smaller bit for to follow a pattern when he
wanted his inlay to be narrower.

I’d use a router and a pattern to make the grooves too. For the flush
cutting I'd probably use my shaper though. I like the extra power, the lack
of vibration, and the resulting finish that I get with the shaper. With
gently curves like that it would perform well...

I run bearings above and below the cutter so I can raise or lower the cutter
and run the work through in the proper direction in regards to the grain and
curve. This is an alternative to flipping the cutter over and switching the
rotation direction.

John

On Wednesday, February 4, 2015 at 6:40:02 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/4/2015 5:23 PM, Leon wrote:

....Snip...


This was the video that taught me everything to do these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4


Here's another cutting board video. I post it not because of the cutting boards or the process, but because of the cordless drill powered bench grinder seen at 1:50.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fyxzi3ElNbU

On 2/5/2015 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, February 4, 2015 at 6:40:02 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/4/2015 5:23 PM, Leon wrote:

...Snip...


This was the video that taught me everything to do these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4


Here's another cutting board video. I post it not because of the cutting boards or the process, but because of the cordless drill powered bench grinder seen at 1:50.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fyxzi3ElNbU



LOL. That is a pretty good optical illusion. Reminds me of a picture
that Swingman took of me when we were installing some kitchen cabinets
that he and I built. I appeared to have no head.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...4226305 96018

On 2/5/2015 3:13 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Electric Comet" wrote in message ...

something occurred to me though, those really fine inlays are going to
be sliced up over time and break free
it's beautiful work but the wrong application

They aren't really inlays per se because they are as thick as the base
material. As such, if the board does start looking exceptionally ratty
it wouldn't be a problem to use a card scraper, or something like a
Stanley No 80, to clean up the surface.


Correct, more like a lamination. Nailshooter got one those cutting
boards and he says he keeps them in good shape by sharpening his knife
every time he cuts on the board and not continuing to saw away after the
cut is completed. And uses one of those stainless steel scrub pads, that
look like a Slinky that got twisted up too much, to scrub the surface.
He claims that the surface stays relatively unblemished.

On 2/5/2015 3:20 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
...

I actually used a small flush cut bottom bearing bit in my small
Makita trim router to follow a pattern clamped to the cutting board.
I took out most of the remainder 1/2" wide grove with the BS so that
my cleanup cut with a 1-1/8" bottom bearing bit in the router table
would not have to do much but take out what was remaining, up to the
previously made grove using the trim router.

There are a lot of subtle things going on in the video that you need
to consider, as you have noticed. ;~) I think I watched the video
4~5 times to understand how he got to where ended up and why.

I do recall him switching to a smaller bit for to follow a pattern
when he wanted his inlay to be narrower.

I’d use a router and a pattern to make the grooves too. For the flush
cutting I'd probably use my shaper though. I like the extra power, the
lack of vibration, and the resulting finish that I get with the shaper.
With gently curves like that it would perform well...

I used the BS to hog out most of the waste area. Cleaning up with the
larger 1.125 bit was quite smooth and effortless when it was only having
to remove about 1/16" of the remaining material on the two pieces. But
I bet the shaper does a bang up job with out having to remove excess to
begin with.




I run bearings above and below the cutter so I can raise or lower the
cutter and run the work through in the proper direction in regards to
the grain and curve. This is an alternative to flipping the cutter over
and switching the rotation direction.

John

That would be an advantage too. Fortunately since I was not removing
more than 1/16" back cutting/going the wrong way was also effortless and
with out any excitement.

On Thu, 5 Feb 2015 16:13:48 -0500
"John Grossbohlin" wrote:

They aren't really inlays per se because they are as thick as the
base material. As such, if the board does start looking exceptionally

Ok whatever the term doesn't matter those very fine wood strips that
he laminated will be getting cut

ratty it wouldn't be a problem to use a card scraper, or something
like a Stanley No 80, to clean up the surface.

Most consumers do not bother

On Thu, 05 Feb 2015 16:52:28 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Correct, more like a lamination. Nailshooter got one those cutting
boards and he says he keeps them in good shape by sharpening his
knife every time he cuts on the board and not continuing to saw away
after the cut is completed. And uses one of those stainless steel
scrub pads, that look like a Slinky that got twisted up too much, to
scrub the surface. He claims that the surface stays relatively
unblemished.

the perfect model consumer very rare
majority do not obsess over their chopping blocks or any other
kitchen implements
me included

Leon wrote:

LOL. That is a pretty good optical illusion. Reminds me of a
picture that Swingman took of me when we were installing some
kitchen cabinets that he and I built. I appeared to have no head.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...4226305 96018

-----------------------------------------------------------
Wouldn't touch that one with a 20 ft bar clamp.G

Lew

"Electric Comet" wrote:

the perfect model consumer very rare
majority do not obsess over their chopping blocks or any other
kitchen implements
me included
-----------------------------------------
You can pry my 5 Star, forged, Henckels 10" chef knife from my cold
dead hand along with the steel used to keep it sharp.

Lew

On 2/5/2015 4:51 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Electric Comet" wrote:

the perfect model consumer very rare
majority do not obsess over their chopping blocks or any other
kitchen implements
me included
-----------------------------------------
You can pry my 5 Star, forged, Henckels 10" chef knife from my cold
dead hand along with the steel used to keep it sharp.

Lew



LOL. I'm with you.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 2/5/2015 3:20 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

I run bearings above and below the cutter so I can raise or lower the
cutter and run the work through in the proper direction in regards to
the grain and curve. This is an alternative to flipping the cutter over
and switching the rotation direction.

John

That would be an advantage too. Fortunately since I was not removing more
than 1/16" back cutting/going the wrong way was also effortless and with
out any excitement.

I have been known to climb cut on the router table when there was little to
remove... and the router bits are "safety bits" rather than "winged" so
they will only take a small bite anyway...

The router and it's bits will only spin in one direction... This is another
reason I like the shaper as the reverse option comes in handy. In fact,
there are times I run it in reverse simply because the feed direction is
more convenient for the particular task.

John

On Thursday, February 5, 2015 at 6:37:53 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 05 Feb 2015 16:52:28 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Correct, more like a lamination. Nailshooter got one those cutting
boards and he says he keeps them in good shape by sharpening his
knife every time he cuts on the board and not continuing to saw away
after the cut is completed. And uses one of those stainless steel
scrub pads, that look like a Slinky that got twisted up too much, to
scrub the surface. He claims that the surface stays relatively
unblemished.

the perfect model consumer very rare
majority do not obsess over their chopping blocks or any other
kitchen implements
me included

Doing things right doesn't make one obsessive.

(My Henckels set lives in its own drawer, in a knife holder I made for them over 30 years ago.)

On 2/5/2015 7:04 PM, Max wrote:
On 2/5/2015 4:51 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Electric Comet" wrote:

the perfect model consumer very rare
majority do not obsess over their chopping blocks or any other
kitchen implements
me included
-----------------------------------------
You can pry my 5 Star, forged, Henckels 10" chef knife from my cold
dead hand along with the steel used to keep it sharp.

Lew



LOL. I'm with you.


I like my Henckels. They are very good blades.

But I love my Wasabi.