Lew Hodgett wrote:

Sounds like a high quality fence might be in order.
----------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I have a Unifence.
----------------------------------------------
It's a great fence. Sounds like you haven't got to the point where
you feel confident using it to it's best advantage.

When I first got my Unifence, it took a little time before it became
my "go to" tool to solve a task.

Now it is my first choice.

Might want to give it another whirl, especially for dados.

Lew

On 1/28/2015 5:43 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Sounds like a high quality fence might be in order.
----------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I have a Unifence.
----------------------------------------------
It's a great fence. Sounds like you haven't got to the point where
you feel confident using it to it's best advantage.

When I first got my Unifence, it took a little time before it became
my "go to" tool to solve a task.

Now it is my first choice.

Might want to give it another whirl, especially for dados.

Lew

I also have the HDPE (?) fence addition. I don't remember where I got it
but it was bought on the advice of someone here.
I trust my fence and it's indicator; I very seldom need to "tweak" it to
get precise cuts. But using a dado blade (I have a Freud SD308) I'm not
sure how I would guesstimate the distance to move the fence to "dial-in"
a cut.
If I cut one side of the dado by making a 1/2" cut then move the fence
to enlarge the cut to 23/32 (the size of 3/4" plywood I've been getting)
I'm not sure how to accomplish that.

As for the slot in a frame for a panel I align the fence as nearly as
possible to the center of the frame piece, run it through then move the
fence just slightly to widen the cut to accommodate a 1/4" (nominal)
panel. (by reversing the direction of feed I'm taking a tiny bit from
each side of the "slot") (I hope that's decipherable.) ;-)

On 1/28/2015 7:22 PM, Max wrote:
I also have the HDPE (?) fence addition. I don't remember where I got it
but it was bought on the advice of someone here.

http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm
?

Might have been me ... been a fanbois here for the product, for those
who have the Delta UniFence, for a number of years


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Sounds like a high quality fence might be in order.
----------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I have a Unifence.
----------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's a great fence. Sounds like you haven't got to the point where
you feel confident using it to it's best advantage.

When I first got my Unifence, it took a little time before it
became
my "go to" tool to solve a task.

Now it is my first choice.

Might want to give it another whirl, especially for dados.
---------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I also have the HDPE (?) fence addition. I don't remember where I
got it but it was bought on the advice of someone here.
----------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

If it's the one Swing referenced, the yellow board buddy is a winner.

I used one to make a mile of 1-1/2" x 5/8" x 24 ft battens from
2x12x24
construction timbers.
-------------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I trust my fence and it's indicator; I very seldom need to "tweak"
it to get precise cuts. But using a dado blade (I have a Freud
SD308) I'm not sure how I would guesstimate the distance to move the
fence to "dial-in" a cut.
If I cut one side of the dado by making a 1/2" cut then move the
fence to enlarge the cut to 23/32 (the size of 3/4" plywood I've
been getting)
I'm not sure how to accomplish that.

As for the slot in a frame for a panel I align the fence as nearly
as possible to the center of the frame piece, run it through then
move the fence just slightly to widen the cut to accommodate a 1/4"
(nominal) panel. (by reversing the direction of feed I'm taking a
tiny bit from each side of the "slot") (I hope that's decipherable.)
--------------------------------------------------------
Some scrap and your 6" dial caliper are your friends, along with the
UniFence
which I have found to be very accurate.

Set up the dado stack to 23/32" and some height, then make a test cut
in some
scrap. Check with your handy dandy dial caliper and adjust as req'd.

Use the UniFence indicator tape to set the distance from the piece
edge to
the dado edge, make the cut and get on with life.

SFWIW, I also use the 1/2" cutter in a router to make a 23/32" dado.

Takes two passes but no climb cuts are involved.

The UniFence is a measuring instrument as well as a table saw
accessory.

It can make life a lot easier.

Lew

On 1/28/2015 6:39 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/28/2015 7:22 PM, Max wrote:
I also have the HDPE (?) fence addition. I don't remember where I got it
but it was bought on the advice of someone here.

http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm
?

Might have been me ... been a fanbois here for the product, for those
who have the Delta UniFence, for a number of years



That's it and you're the "one".

On 1/28/2015 7:23 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Sounds like a high quality fence might be in order.
----------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I have a Unifence.
----------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's a great fence. Sounds like you haven't got to the point where
you feel confident using it to it's best advantage.

When I first got my Unifence, it took a little time before it
became
my "go to" tool to solve a task.

Now it is my first choice.

Might want to give it another whirl, especially for dados.
---------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I also have the HDPE (?) fence addition. I don't remember where I
got it but it was bought on the advice of someone here.
----------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

If it's the one Swing referenced, the yellow board buddy is a winner.

I used one to make a mile of 1-1/2" x 5/8" x 24 ft battens from
2x12x24
construction timbers.
-------------------------------------------------
"Max" wrote:

I trust my fence and it's indicator; I very seldom need to "tweak"
it to get precise cuts. But using a dado blade (I have a Freud
SD308) I'm not sure how I would guesstimate the distance to move the
fence to "dial-in" a cut.
If I cut one side of the dado by making a 1/2" cut then move the
fence to enlarge the cut to 23/32 (the size of 3/4" plywood I've
been getting)
I'm not sure how to accomplish that.

As for the slot in a frame for a panel I align the fence as nearly
as possible to the center of the frame piece, run it through then
move the fence just slightly to widen the cut to accommodate a 1/4"
(nominal) panel. (by reversing the direction of feed I'm taking a
tiny bit from each side of the "slot") (I hope that's decipherable.)
--------------------------------------------------------
Some scrap and your 6" dial caliper are your friends, along with the
UniFence
which I have found to be very accurate.

Set up the dado stack to 23/32" and some height, then make a test cut
in some
scrap. Check with your handy dandy dial caliper and adjust as req'd.

Use the UniFence indicator tape to set the distance from the piece
edge to
the dado edge, make the cut and get on with life.

SFWIW, I also use the 1/2" cutter in a router to make a 23/32" dado.

Takes two passes but no climb cuts are involved.

The UniFence is a measuring instrument as well as a table saw
accessory.

It can make life a lot easier.

Lew


The dial caliper! Duh, he said, hitting his forehead.