My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base, elevated a couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches from the base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new
cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base,
elevated a couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have
the builder insert bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would
extend out a couple inches from the base and we would drill
corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to
the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then use 8"
blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8 ledger on the 12"
blocks.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article ,
-MIKE- wrote:

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new
cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base,
elevated a couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have
the builder insert bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would
extend out a couple inches from the base and we would drill
corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to
the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then use 8"
blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8 ledger on the 12"
blocks.

Your son should get some expert advise from a reliable professional.
Bolting a ledger to the house without spacing is asking for dry rot on
the house ledger. Ask me how I know. Also bldg. codes require that a deck
be securely attached to the house. If he still wants to do this
himself, he should get a subscription to Journal Of Light Construction.
One of the latest issues has an article on this.

CP

On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 19:42:31 -0700, Pilgrim
wrote:

In article ,
-MIKE- wrote:

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new
cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base,
elevated a couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have
the builder insert bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would
extend out a couple inches from the base and we would drill
corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to
the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then use 8"
blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8 ledger on the 12"
blocks.

Your son should get some expert advise from a reliable professional.
Bolting a ledger to the house without spacing is asking for dry rot on
the house ledger. Ask me how I know. Also bldg. codes require that a deck
be securely attached to the house. If he still wants to do this
himself, he should get a subscription to Journal Of Light Construction.
One of the latest issues has an article on this.

CP
The deck CAN b a "free standing structure" - not fastened to the
building at all. This alleviates any settling ot heaving problems,
eliminates the possibility of foundation leakage at the bolt,
elimintes dry rot issues, and is generally simpler and more forgiving.
It DOES need to be properly cross-braced to prevent moving

On 9/12/14, 9:59 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 19:42:31 -0700, Pilgrim
wrote:

In article , -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the
new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete
block base, elevated a couple feet above ground level. My
instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in the concrete
grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches from the
base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in
order to bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better
route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then use
8" blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8 ledger
on the 12" blocks.

Your son should get some expert advise from a reliable
professional. Bolting a ledger to the house without spacing is
asking for dry rot on the house ledger. Ask me how I know. Also
bldg. codes require that a deck be securely attached to the house.
If he still wants to do this himself, he should get a subscription
to Journal Of Light Construction. One of the latest issues has an
article on this.

CP
The deck CAN b a "free standing structure" - not fastened to the
building at all. This alleviates any settling ot heaving problems,
eliminates the possibility of foundation leakage at the bolt,
elimintes dry rot issues, and is generally simpler and more
forgiving. It DOES need to be properly cross-braced to prevent
moving


That's good advice. Although if they take the advice I gave, there's
no connection to the house, just the foundation.

BTW, there's no such thing as dry rot. It's all wet. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 22:23:29 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 9:59 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 19:42:31 -0700, Pilgrim
wrote:

In article , -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the
new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete
block base, elevated a couple feet above ground level. My
instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in the concrete
grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches from the
base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in
order to bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better
route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then use
8" blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8 ledger
on the 12" blocks.

Your son should get some expert advise from a reliable
professional. Bolting a ledger to the house without spacing is
asking for dry rot on the house ledger. Ask me how I know. Also
bldg. codes require that a deck be securely attached to the house.
If he still wants to do this himself, he should get a subscription
to Journal Of Light Construction. One of the latest issues has an
article on this.

CP
The deck CAN b a "free standing structure" - not fastened to the
building at all. This alleviates any settling ot heaving problems,
eliminates the possibility of foundation leakage at the bolt,
elimintes dry rot issues, and is generally simpler and more
forgiving. It DOES need to be properly cross-braced to prevent
moving


That's good advice. Although if they take the advice I gave, there's
no connection to the house, just the foundation.

BTW, there's no such thing as dry rot. It's all wet. :-)

As a general rule of good construction practice, wood should never
contact earth OR concrete. When placing a sill on a concrete
foundation, a "sill gasket" should ALWAYS be used. Heavy building felt
is commonly used, but there are other, possibly better options.
When setting a wooden post on a concrete piling, a galvanized steel
saddle (or equivalent) should ALWAYS be used. moisture from the
concrete piling continually absorbs into the end-grain of the post,
and in about 20 years there is nothing lest of the post. Perhaps 22 if
it is PT wood, or 23 if it is cedar. Friend's daughter just bought a
house about 2 years ago and the carport roof is sagging - just found
out there is no wood left inside the aluminum cladding of at least 2
of the 4 posts that are SUPPOSED to be holding up the end of the
carport.
Twenty some years ago I had the same problem with the post holding up
the corner of my front porch overhang. 4X4 wood sitting directly on
concrete "footing" - nothing but pulp for the bottom 8 inches or so.

On 9/12/14, 10:55 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 22:23:29 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 9:59 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 19:42:31 -0700, Pilgrim
wrote:

In article , -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on
the new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a
concrete block base, elevated a couple feet above ground
level. My instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in
the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple
inches from the base and we would drill corresponding holes
in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to the
dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better
route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then
use 8" blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8
ledger on the 12" blocks.

Your son should get some expert advise from a reliable
professional. Bolting a ledger to the house without spacing is
asking for dry rot on the house ledger. Ask me how I know.
Also bldg. codes require that a deck be securely attached to
the house. If he still wants to do this himself, he should get
a subscription to Journal Of Light Construction. One of the
latest issues has an article on this.

CP
The deck CAN b a "free standing structure" - not fastened to the
building at all. This alleviates any settling ot heaving
problems, eliminates the possibility of foundation leakage at the
bolt, elimintes dry rot issues, and is generally simpler and
more forgiving. It DOES need to be properly cross-braced to
prevent moving


That's good advice. Although if they take the advice I gave,
there's no connection to the house, just the foundation.

BTW, there's no such thing as dry rot. It's all wet. :-)

As a general rule of good construction practice, wood should never
contact earth OR concrete. When placing a sill on a concrete
foundation, a "sill gasket" should ALWAYS be used. Heavy building
felt is commonly used, but there are other, possibly better options.
When setting a wooden post on a concrete piling, a galvanized steel
saddle (or equivalent) should ALWAYS be used. moisture from the
concrete piling continually absorbs into the end-grain of the post,
and in about 20 years there is nothing lest of the post. Perhaps 22
if it is PT wood, or 23 if it is cedar. Friend's daughter just bought
a house about 2 years ago and the carport roof is sagging - just
found out there is no wood left inside the aluminum cladding of at
least 2 of the 4 posts that are SUPPOSED to be holding up the end of
the carport. Twenty some years ago I had the same problem with the
post holding up the corner of my front porch overhang. 4X4 wood
sitting directly on concrete "footing" - nothing but pulp for the
bottom 8 inches or so.


I just assumed his builder would know to use a sill sealer of some kind.
I also assumed the deck would be made of pressure treated wood wich is
fine on concrete. Do we have to fu@k!ing spell it out in here or what?

sheesh.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new cabin
he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base, elevated a
couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have the builder insert
bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches
from the base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in
order to bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry

National building code REQUIRES through bolting it to the foundation to keep
it from pulling out the bolts and collapsing, killing those standing on
decks that are well elevated. It has happened, many times.

There are charts on the spacing of the bolts that reference the length of
the deck extending away from the building. The bolts are to be heavy
galvanized, can't remember if it is 1/2" or 5/8" but I recall that it is the
latter.

This is one thing in the building code that I believe in. The spacing is a
little overkill, but lag bolts can, and do pull out. The result can be
catastrophic failure.

Do this job right, whether it is inspected or not. The other choice is to
basically make it free standing by putting posts up next to the foundation,
which has already been mentioned.

--
Jim in NC


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Sat, 13 Sep 2014 00:24:56 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 10:55 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 22:23:29 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 9:59 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 19:42:31 -0700, Pilgrim
wrote:

In article , -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on
the new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a
concrete block base, elevated a couple feet above ground
level. My instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in
the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple
inches from the base and we would drill corresponding holes
in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to the
dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better
route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then
use 8" blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8
ledger on the 12" blocks.

Your son should get some expert advise from a reliable
professional. Bolting a ledger to the house without spacing is
asking for dry rot on the house ledger. Ask me how I know.
Also bldg. codes require that a deck be securely attached to
the house. If he still wants to do this himself, he should get
a subscription to Journal Of Light Construction. One of the
latest issues has an article on this.

CP
The deck CAN b a "free standing structure" - not fastened to the
building at all. This alleviates any settling ot heaving
problems, eliminates the possibility of foundation leakage at the
bolt, elimintes dry rot issues, and is generally simpler and
more forgiving. It DOES need to be properly cross-braced to
prevent moving


That's good advice. Although if they take the advice I gave,
there's no connection to the house, just the foundation.

BTW, there's no such thing as dry rot. It's all wet. :-)

As a general rule of good construction practice, wood should never
contact earth OR concrete. When placing a sill on a concrete
foundation, a "sill gasket" should ALWAYS be used. Heavy building
felt is commonly used, but there are other, possibly better options.
When setting a wooden post on a concrete piling, a galvanized steel
saddle (or equivalent) should ALWAYS be used. moisture from the
concrete piling continually absorbs into the end-grain of the post,
and in about 20 years there is nothing lest of the post. Perhaps 22
if it is PT wood, or 23 if it is cedar. Friend's daughter just bought
a house about 2 years ago and the carport roof is sagging - just
found out there is no wood left inside the aluminum cladding of at
least 2 of the 4 posts that are SUPPOSED to be holding up the end of
the carport. Twenty some years ago I had the same problem with the
post holding up the corner of my front porch overhang. 4X4 wood
sitting directly on concrete "footing" - nothing but pulp for the
bottom 8 inches or so.


I just assumed his builder would know to use a sill sealer of some kind.
I also assumed the deck would be made of pressure treated wood wich is
fine on concrete. Do we have to fu@k!ing spell it out in here or what?

sheesh.
Today's pressure treated lumber can still rot on concrete. And many
builders have obviously "forgotten" that standard lumber dhould never
contact concrete directlyere are MANY cases of this happening.

Do I have to spell it out???
I gave 2 experiences I have personally run into where it wasn't done
right - and I'm sure I could find another 10 if I walked through 2 or
3 neighbouthoods and shook the porch corner posts or carport supports.

Actually, while looking at houses recently I did find sI rejected out
of hand because one or more posts moved - and these were $300000 plus
homes, less than 40 years old.

On Sat, 13 Sep 2014 07:18:02 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote:



"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new cabin
he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base, elevated a
couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have the builder insert
bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches
from the base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in
order to bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry

National building code REQUIRES through bolting it to the foundation to keep
it from pulling out the bolts and collapsing, killing those standing on
decks that are well elevated. It has happened, many times.

There are charts on the spacing of the bolts that reference the length of
the deck extending away from the building. The bolts are to be heavy
galvanized, can't remember if it is 1/2" or 5/8" but I recall that it is the
latter.

This is one thing in the building code that I believe in. The spacing is a
little overkill, but lag bolts can, and do pull out. The result can be
catastrophic failure.

Do this job right, whether it is inspected or not. The other choice is to
basically make it free standing by putting posts up next to the foundation,
which has already been mentioned.
on a 4 foot or higher deck I agree. On a 2 foot high deck, it is
overkill and it is becomming much more common to make it basically a
"patio" which sits on the ground. But made of lumber (and now even
steel) supported above ground

On 9/13/14, 8:41 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 13 Sep 2014 00:24:56 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 10:55 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 22:23:29 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 9:59 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2014 19:42:31 -0700, Pilgrim
wrote:

In article , -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/12/14, 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on
the new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a
concrete block base, elevated a couple feet above ground
level. My instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in
the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple
inches from the base and we would drill corresponding holes
in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to the
dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better
route?

Larry


Perhaps he could use 12" blocks until the last course, then
use 8" blocks. That would allow you to simply rest your 2x8
ledger on the 12" blocks.

Your son should get some expert advise from a reliable
professional. Bolting a ledger to the house without spacing is
asking for dry rot on the house ledger. Ask me how I know.
Also bldg. codes require that a deck be securely attached to
the house. If he still wants to do this himself, he should get
a subscription to Journal Of Light Construction. One of the
latest issues has an article on this.

CP
The deck CAN b a "free standing structure" - not fastened to the
building at all. This alleviates any settling ot heaving
problems, eliminates the possibility of foundation leakage at the
bolt, elimintes dry rot issues, and is generally simpler and
more forgiving. It DOES need to be properly cross-braced to
prevent moving


That's good advice. Although if they take the advice I gave,
there's no connection to the house, just the foundation.

BTW, there's no such thing as dry rot. It's all wet. :-)

As a general rule of good construction practice, wood should never
contact earth OR concrete. When placing a sill on a concrete
foundation, a "sill gasket" should ALWAYS be used. Heavy building
felt is commonly used, but there are other, possibly better options.
When setting a wooden post on a concrete piling, a galvanized steel
saddle (or equivalent) should ALWAYS be used. moisture from the
concrete piling continually absorbs into the end-grain of the post,
and in about 20 years there is nothing lest of the post. Perhaps 22
if it is PT wood, or 23 if it is cedar. Friend's daughter just bought
a house about 2 years ago and the carport roof is sagging - just
found out there is no wood left inside the aluminum cladding of at
least 2 of the 4 posts that are SUPPOSED to be holding up the end of
the carport. Twenty some years ago I had the same problem with the
post holding up the corner of my front porch overhang. 4X4 wood
sitting directly on concrete "footing" - nothing but pulp for the
bottom 8 inches or so.


I just assumed his builder would know to use a sill sealer of some kind.
I also assumed the deck would be made of pressure treated wood wich is
fine on concrete. Do we have to fu@k!ing spell it out in here or what?

sheesh.
Today's pressure treated lumber can still rot on concrete. And many
builders have obviously "forgotten" that standard lumber dhould never
contact concrete directlyere are MANY cases of this happening.

Do I have to spell it out???
I gave 2 experiences I have personally run into where it wasn't done
right - and I'm sure I could find another 10 if I walked through 2 or
3 neighbouthoods and shook the porch corner posts or carport supports.

Actually, while looking at houses recently I did find sI rejected out
of hand because one or more posts moved - and these were $300000 plus
homes, less than 40 years old.


I think you should go supervise just to be sure. :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/12/2014 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base, elevated a couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches from the base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?


You should ping John Loomis, here on the wRec.

He builds a lot of decks.

That said, there are very specific code requirements for attaching a
deck to an existing structure. It pays off to build to building codes
for your area, as they should take into account regional climate
differences, and your project will last much longer.

I built a single level deck a few years ago that was almost 1000/sf, and
I built it freestanding (not attached to the existing structure), which
is, IMO, a good way to go for the height you mention, so give that
method some consideration.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sat, 13 Sep 2014 14:31:17 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 9/12/2014 7:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base, elevated a couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches from the base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?


You should ping John Loomis, here on the wRec.

He builds a lot of decks.

That said, there are very specific code requirements for attaching a
deck to an existing structure. It pays off to build to building codes
for your area, as they should take into account regional climate
differences, and your project will last much longer.

I built a single level deck a few years ago that was almost 1000/sf, and
I built it freestanding (not attached to the existing structure), which
is, IMO, a good way to go for the height you mention, so give that
method some consideration.
Right. Code dictates HOW a deck is to be attatched to the structure
but does not REQUIRE it to be attached.

wrote

on a 4 foot or higher deck I agree. On a 2 foot high deck, it is
overkill and it is becomming much more common to make it basically a
"patio" which sits on the ground. But made of lumber (and now even
steel) supported above ground

No arguments with anything here. I would add that sometimes even a higher
deck can be made free standing and made practical.

I would add that the plastic wood is pretty cool to work with. I can't see
it ever rotting or getting tattered.
--
Jim in NC


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

That is an excellent way to handle a deck ledger on a concrete wall.
I also place the bolts "off layout" so that they do not interfere with the
joisting.
A pressure treated 2x6 or corresponding ledger to fit joist size is what is
bolted on.
The only problem is that the ledger and joist/decking need to be lower that
the 1" or so siding of the cabin.
so, there will be a slight elevation drop to the deck.

johnloomis

"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...

My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new cabin he's
having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base, elevated a couple
feet above ground level. My instinct is to have the builder insert bolts in
the concrete grout. The bolts would extend out a couple inches from the
base and we would drill corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to
bolt the joist to the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry

On 09/14/2014 04:07 AM, Morgans wrote:


wrote

on a 4 foot or higher deck I agree. On a 2 foot high deck, it is
overkill and it is becomming much more common to make it basically a
"patio" which sits on the ground. But made of lumber (and now even
steel) supported above ground

No arguments with anything here. I would add that sometimes even a
higher deck can be made free standing and made practical.

I would add that the plastic wood is pretty cool to work with. I can't
see it ever rotting or getting tattered.

Some of that "plastic wood" actually has wood fibers in it. It can rot.
I've a contractor friend here that has had to replace such decks...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers

On 9/12/2014 8:27 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
My son has asked me to help him erect an elevated deck on the new
cabin he's having built. The cabin will be on a concrete block base,
elevated a couple feet above ground level. My instinct is to have
the builder insert bolts in the concrete grout. The bolts would
extend out a couple inches from the base and we would drill
corresponding holes in the 2x8 joist in order to bolt the joist to
the dwelling.

Is this the correct procedure or is there an easier/better route?

Larry

Hopefully I'm not too late here, but what you're describing would be
absolutely the wrong way to do this, and has the potential to seriously
damage or destroy your foundation.

The most common accepted detail for this is to (expansion) bolt a
continuous pressure-treated 2x ledger board to the CMU wall. Depending
upon the situation and the actual cabin floor/joist construction, it's
often recommended that the ledger board be held away from the CMU wall
with small 2X spacers so that moisture can drain away. Then use
pre-engineered steel joist hangers fastened per manufacturer's
requirements to the ledger board. Set the deck joists into the hangers
and fasten them to the hangers. The connection through the hangers
allows a good deal of movement to occur without damaging or stressing
anything.

Contrary to what some others have posted, the national and international
building codes do not require that a deck be fastened directly to a
structure. If it is to be fastened, some codes do offer general guidance
on how this should be done, but they are by no means all-encompassing,
and intentionally allow latitude for many different methods and
materials to be used.

I would suggest that you take some photos of what you have already
constructed to a reputable architect or structural engineer (preferably
one who does design work on residential structures) and get some real
advice. Most all architects and structural engineers have detailed this
situation dozens of times, and will advise you for little to no cost;
and the peace of mind you'll have will be priceless.

JP

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This is my signature. Really. I'm not kidding. Stop reading now.