I have a few circular saw blades of different manufacturers. There is a
local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a teeth for carbide and a
straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60 tooth
($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of $56.

Add that to the $20 the total is $76 complete for 5 blades.

Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a quality brand
such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

Thanks

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 11/22/2013 7:11 PM, Meanie wrote:
What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

Buy new. IME, none of the blades you mention are likely worth
sharpening, over buying new.

Basically, the more expensive/higher the quality of the blade, like
Forrest or Frued, the longer between sharpening, as the quality of blade
is directly proportional to its ability to maintain a sharp edge with use.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

In article , Meanie wrote:
I have a few circular saw blades of different manufacturers. There is a
local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a teeth for carbide and a
straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60 tooth
($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of $56.

Add that to the $20 the total is $76 complete for 5 blades.

Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a quality brand
such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

Thanks


I wouldn't bother with the steel blades unless they had some special
use that you want. I believe Oldham is no longer a separate company
(bought by B&D/DeWalt IIRC) but I used some of their blades years ago
and they were of pretty good quality. I'm not familiar with Ridgid's
blade quality or Irwins, though I've heard that the Irwins are more
of a utility/construction grade than ww. Why not try the sharpening
service out on just 1 or 2 of them and check the results? I'd suggest
the Oldham and whichever was the best when new between the Ridgid and
the Irwin.


--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

On 11/22/2013 8:38 PM, Larry W wrote:
In article , Meanie wrote:
I have a few circular saw blades of different manufacturers. There is a
local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a teeth for carbide and a
straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60 tooth
($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of $56.

Add that to the $20 the total is $76 complete for 5 blades.

Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a quality brand
such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

Thanks


I wouldn't bother with the steel blades unless they had some special
use that you want. I believe Oldham is no longer a separate company
(bought by B&D/DeWalt IIRC) but I used some of their blades years ago
and they were of pretty good quality. I'm not familiar with Ridgid's
blade quality or Irwins, though I've heard that the Irwins are more
of a utility/construction grade than ww. Why not try the sharpening
service out on just 1 or 2 of them and check the results? I'd suggest
the Oldham and whichever was the best when new between the Ridgid and
the Irwin.


Good idea, I may consider that.

After thinking about it, I think the Ridgid is still in good shape. It
came with my miter saw (Ridgid, of course) but I removed it for a 60
tooth blade because I wanted finer cuts.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 11/22/2013 8:11 PM, Meanie wrote:
I have a few circular saw blades of different manufacturers. There is a
local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a teeth for carbide and a
straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60 tooth
($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of $56.

Add that to the $20 the total is $76 complete for 5 blades.

Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a quality brand
such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

Thanks

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

The steel ones unless they are ply blades are not worth sharpening.
I still use a steel ply blade in my circ saw at times. I find it useful
at times. I also find them great when I use them in reverse for cutting
aluminum siding..

If the plates are straight it probably is worth it for the carbides.

--
Jeff

I sharpen all my carbide blades that have good carbide, and still holding
their own.
They never seem to last as long as new ones though.
John

"Meanie" wrote in message ...

I have a few circular saw blades of different manufacturers. There is a
local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a teeth for carbide and a
straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60 tooth
($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of $56.

Add that to the $20 the total is $76 complete for 5 blades.

Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a quality brand
such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

Thanks

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 11/22/2013 8:11 PM, Meanie wrote:

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60 tooth
($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of $56.

Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a quality brand
such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?


Both. I'd buy a good combination blade from Ridge Carbide, Forrest,
Infinity, etc. They will give you the great cuts you want.

I'd also sharpen one or two of the carbide blades to use when I had
questionable material or ripping a pressure treated board where finish
is not so critical. Cheap insurance for $14.

My 12" DeWalt miter saw came with a mediocre blade. I lent the saw to
someone to cut laminate flooring knowing the blade would be trashed and
it was. I sent it to Ridge Carbide for sharpening and it came back
better than new.

"Meanie" wrote:

I have a few circular saw blades of different manufacturers. There is
a local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a teeth for carbide
and a straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for
both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60
tooth ($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of
$56.
---------------------------------------------------------
IMHO, none of the above have enough built in quality to be worth the
sharpening cost; however, I'd probably sharpen the Ridgid and keep it
around as a "trash" blade to cut garbage lumber.

The rest of the blades get converted into clocks or just scrap metal.

I'd then shop around for a quality set of blades (24T, 50T, 80T) on
sale
which will cover at least 90% - 95% of your needs.

I had a set from Freud which served me well but there are others.

Have fun.

Lew

"Meanie" wrote in message

I have a few circular saw blades of different
manufacturers. There is a local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a
teeth
for carbide and a straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would
cost $20 for both.
Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total),
Oldham 60 tooth ($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21
total) for a total cost of $56.
Add that to the $20 the total is $76 complete for 5
blades.
Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a
quality brand such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

I would forget about the steel blades unless they have some unique
characteristic. You didn't mention tooth type but the 30 tooth might be a
flat tooth rip. In that case, I might keep it - flat grind seems to be
getting hard to find - but I'd sharpen it myself, not that hard.

Among the carbide, you have 1-40 tooth, 2-60 tooth. Why would you need two
60 tooth blades? For that matter, why do you need one? I use a 30 tooth
flat on my table saw for ripping, occasional cross cutting, a 40 tooth
alternate top bevel on my radial for crosscutting; I've never felt the need
for others.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 11/22/2013 7:11 PM, Meanie wrote:
I have a few circular saw blades of different manufacturers. There is a
local place who will sharpen them at .35 cents a teeth for carbide and a
straight $10 fee for steel.

Two blades are Delta steel 30 and 60 tooth which would cost $20 for both.

Three are carbide. One a Ridgid 40 tooth ($14 total), Oldham 60 tooth
($21 total) and Irwin 60 tooth ($21 total) for a total cost of $56.

Add that to the $20 the total is $76 complete for 5 blades.

Obviously, that's cheaper than even one new blade of a quality brand
such as Freud, but how long does an average blade last?

What would most of you do? Sharpen or buy new?

Thanks

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com



Mostly to add what most every one else has said, put the money towards a
very good blade.

There are other good choices however I do quite a bit of woodworking,
not full time but maybe 2/3's full time.

I bought a Forrest WWII 40 tooth regular kerf blade 14 years ago. I
still use it on a daily basis. I have two actually, I simply swap them
out ever few years when the other goes in to be resharpened. OK, I have
three. ;~) The third has a flat grind for cutting flat bottom groves
for draw bottoms.

The big advantage to the premium blades and especially Forrest is that
they use better materials so they stay sharper longer, it is not unusual
for me to use a blade a couple of years before sending it back to
Forrest to be resharpened. Additionally the better blades use larger
pieces of carbide for the teeth. This equates to being able to have
that blade resharpened 8~12 times during it's life span. Additionally
the better blades will spin more true with less wobble.

Now some will argue that you need more than one blade for cross cutting
and ripping. I in the last 25 or so years have not found that to be
necessary. The WWII handles all of my cutting needs except for cutting
wide dado's, so I'm not having to swap between a cross cut and a rip
blade several times a day.

And lastly, if you want a good quality cut resist temptation and steer
clear of thin kerf blades. They do cut faster on marginal HP saws
however a good quality regular kerf blade will cut just fine on a
marginal HP saw also but with less flex. I use to have a 1 HP Craftsman
TS that did better with a quality regular kerf blade than a less
expensive think kerf blade.