Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

On 9/15/13 11:29 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60
deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the
attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit. Portable saw
only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on
end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do
about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary


Google "table saw tenon jig" and you'll see many techniques using an
auxiliary fence for the table saw or a jig that rides on the table saw
fence. These hold the stock upright, perpendicular to the table, in order
to ride through the blade.

They are pretty easy to make and will allow you to tilt your blade to 30
degrees, giving you a 60 degree cut.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/15/13 11:36 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/15/13 11:29 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60
deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the
attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit. Portable saw
only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on
end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do
about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary


Google "table saw tenon jig" and you'll see many techniques using an
auxiliary fence for the table saw or a jig that rides on the table saw
fence. These hold the stock upright, perpendicular to the table, in order
to ride through the blade.

They are pretty easy to make and will allow you to tilt your blade to 30
degrees, giving you a 60 degree cut.


I think this is the one I patterned mine after...
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/t...wtenonjig.aspx

Very simple, sturdy, and stable.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/15/2013 11:29 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary



Do you have a bandsaw?

On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 09:29:07 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

Very simple. I had to do the same thing when I built my shed for the
rafter ends.

Clamp a straight edge 90 deg to the fence of your miter saw and then
all you have to do is cut a 30 deg angle. With the 12" length of your
stock it's a piece of cake.

On 9/15/2013 11:29 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Do you have a miter saw?


--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 9/15/2013 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 09:29:07 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

Very simple. I had to do the same thing when I built my shed for the
rafter ends.

Clamp a straight edge 90 deg to the fence of your miter saw and then
all you have to do is cut a 30 deg angle. With the 12" length of your
stock it's a piece of cake.

+1

All these angled chair leg top bevels were cut using your method
described above ... the OP's cut is indeed a "piece of cake", relatively
speaking.

https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...67778981859077


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

I have little experience at these sort of things, but I would build a
"sled" having a 30-degree "ramp". Then would adjust the blade angle on
someones TS until my test-cuts were a "perfect fit" (to the attic).

By the way, the rise/run of a 30-degree angle is about .577. The angle
corresponding to a rise/run of .5 is about 26.57-degrees. So make the
height of the "ramp" half as much as it's width, and you'll be pretty
close. You could measure the angle of whatever ramp you build with a
protractor, of course. Then make up the difference (to 60) with your
table saw.

I welcome constructive criticism.

Bill

On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 17:15:27 -0500, Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 09:29:07 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

Very simple. I had to do the same thing when I built my shed for the
rafter ends.

Let me rephrase that. I had to do the same thing when I cut the
rafter ends for my shed. I would never want to give anyone the
impression that I built a shed to house my rafter ends. ;-)

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 9/15/2013 11:29 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg.
angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so
the drywall installer can make a small soffit.
Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand
pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need
to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary



Do you have a bandsaw?

Actually, do you have a jigsaw?

I don't think either my miter saw or my table saw will cut 3-1/2 inches deep. Therefore a sled or miter gage solution is out.
Ivan Vegvary

On 9/15/13 6:12 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
I don't think either my miter saw or my table saw will cut 3-1/2 inches deep. Therefore a sled or miter gage solution is out.
Ivan Vegvary


Your table saw wouldn't have to cut that deep, if the 2x4 is standing up
on edge.
The 3-1/2" dimension would be passing through the blade.
The blade would be tilted at 30 degrees cutting through the 1-1/2"
dimension of the 2x4.
Or did I misunderstand the cut you're trying to make. You want to make
a bevel cut on the end of a 2x4, not a miter cut, right?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Thanks. Bevel cut across the flat 3-1/2 inch dimension of the 2x4. I could pass it with the miter gage, and after all the cuts are made,flip everything over for a second pass so I can go full depth. Don't need accuracy. This is for framing only not cabinet work.
Ivan Vegvary

On 9/15/13 6:37 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Thanks. Bevel cut across the flat 3-1/2 inch dimension of the 2x4. I
could pass it with the miter gage, and after all the cuts are
made,flip everything over for a second pass so I can go full depth.
Don't need accuracy. This is for framing only not cabinet work. Ivan
Vegvary


Well crap, you could do that with a circ saw or hand saw on a saw horse.
If it's just framing, turn the 2x4 on edge, use a speed square to mark
the 60degree cut line and cut with a hand saw... or hold the speed
square at 60 as a guide for the circ saw. Go half way on one side and
flip to finish the cut.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Thanks. Bevel cut across the flat 3-1/2 inch dimension of the 2x4. I could pass it with the miter gage, and after all the cuts are made,flip everything over for a second pass so I can go full depth. Don't need accuracy. This is for framing only not cabinet work.
Ivan Vegvary

Before anyone else reaches for his or her calculator, for a 1.5" wide
2x4, the depth of the cut required appears to be 3".

Bill

Bill wrote:
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Thanks. Bevel cut across the flat 3-1/2 inch dimension of the 2x4.
I could pass it with the miter gage, and after all the cuts are
made,flip everything over for a second pass so I can go full depth.
Don't need accuracy. This is for framing only not cabinet work.
Ivan Vegvary

Before anyone else reaches for his or her calculator, for a 1.5" wide
2x4, the depth of the cut required appears to be 3".

Bill

Scratch that. 1.75" from each side makes more sense.

On 9/15/2013 6:12 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
I don't think either my miter saw or my table saw will cut 3-1/2 inches deep. Therefore a sled or miter gage solution is out.

Therefore, hire someone.

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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 11:36:32 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/15/13 11:29 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60
deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the
attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit. Portable saw
only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on
end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do
about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.


I not sure exactly what you're attempting to do but can't you just cut
them square and nail them to the side of the roof rafters to give you
the drywall soffit?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Sunday, September 15, 2013 9:29:07 AM UTC-7, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit.

So, it's a RIP cut you want to make?
It might be safer/easier to rip a 1x6 and glue two thicknesses together.