Just about got the garage converted to a shop. Since it's attached to
the house, I definitely want a dual sensor smoke alarm. But I need one
that I can turn off when I'm out there working or it'd be false alarming
all the time.

The best I've come up with so far is a hard wired alarm on a switched
circuit. But I'd love to find an alarm with an on/off switch. Probably
illegal to make them that way :-).

Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?


You may want to consider a "Temperature Alarm" in lieu of a smoke detector. It is the typical approach in dusty industrial conditions. Be sure it is one with a "Rate of Rise" capability vs just an absolute temperature set point.

May be a little more expensive than a smoke detector but should be able to get one for under $100. Usually have to also create the actual alarm because they are just a sensor and you need to then trigger some event like ring a bell, call the fire dept, etc. But you may find an integrated model.

Maybe Grainger? Not sure.

On Monday, August 5, 2013 12:20:18 PM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com wrote:


Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?





You may want to consider a "Temperature Alarm" in lieu of a smoke detector. It is the typical approach in dusty industrial conditions. Be sure it is one with a "Rate of Rise" capability vs just an absolute temperature set point.



May be a little more expensive than a smoke detector but should be able to get one for under $100. Usually have to also create the actual alarm because they are just a sensor and you need to then trigger some event like ring a bell, call the fire dept, etc. But you may find an integrated model.



Maybe Grainger? Not sure.

Yeah, Grainger
Home / Test Instruments / Temperature and Humidity Measuring / Temperature Alarms

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message ...


Just about got the garage converted to a shop. Since it's attached to
the house, I definitely want a dual sensor smoke alarm. But I need one
that I can turn off when I'm out there working or it'd be false alarming
all the time.

The best I've come up with so far is a hard wired alarm on a switched
circuit. But I'd love to find an alarm with an on/off switch. Probably
illegal to make them that way :-).

Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?

--
Hook it up with a remote that turns off the power. ACE Hardware has some at
a very low price. I have several in use on different things. WW

WW wrote:


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...


Just about got the garage converted to a shop. Since it's attached to
the house, I definitely want a dual sensor smoke alarm. But I need one
that I can turn off when I'm out there working or it'd be false alarming
all the time.

The best I've come up with so far is a hard wired alarm on a switched
circuit. But I'd love to find an alarm with an on/off switch. Probably
illegal to make them that way :-).

Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?

How about a volume control? : )
Sorry I can't do better.

Bill

Larry Blanchard wrote in
:


Just about got the garage converted to a shop. Since it's
attached to the house, I definitely want a dual sensor
smoke alarm. But I need one that I can turn off when I'm
out there working or it'd be false alarming all the time.

The best I've come up with so far is a hard wired alarm on
a switched circuit. But I'd love to find an alarm with an
on/off switch. Probably illegal to make them that way :-).

Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?


The problem is that most come with a battery. Turning off the
power means removing the battery.

On 8/5/2013 8:05 PM, Larry wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote in
:


Just about got the garage converted to a shop. Since it's
attached to the house, I definitely want a dual sensor
smoke alarm. But I need one that I can turn off when I'm
out there working or it'd be false alarming all the time.

The best I've come up with so far is a hard wired alarm on
a switched circuit. But I'd love to find an alarm with an
on/off switch. Probably illegal to make them that way :-).

Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?


The problem is that most come with a battery. Turning off the
power means removing the battery.

No problem, Larry. Hit Radio Shack and pick up a small piece of printed
circuit board with copper on each side, separated by the phenoic board
(you can find it pretty thin)

Take a very thin wire pair (teleco wire should work) and solder one wire
to each side. At the other end, terminate it with a miniature switch
and then encapsulate the switch (just tidying up - not really necessary.
Let the switch dangle and turn off the detector when you need to.

....OR

Double check the manual for the sensor itself. I have smoke detectors
in my house and in the shop, located in a detached building. They are
all tied in to the home security system which is monitored via cellular
at a central station.

My detectors are supervised (which means the system is constantly
checking both them and the intrusion devices to ensure they are powered
up and communicating with the alarm control and cellular connection).

They are designed, however, for me to test them in the usual fashion
without sounding an alarm OR in the event of a burned skillet or smoke
from a dull table saw blade, etc. I can just push in the test button and
the unit shuts down for 10 minutes and then rearms automatically - a
fail safe.

Either option will work for me since with my setup and instructions, the
central station doesn't get their panties in a wad if the smoke detector
goes off line since my system allows for SMS notification to my smart
phone (as well as complete control of the system remotely) and I'm
notified of trouble conditions, defective sensors and, of course, alarm
arming/disarming and actual alarm conditions.

On Mon, 05 Aug 2013 22:31:08 -0500, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

No problem, Larry. Hit Radio Shack and pick up a small piece of printed
circuit board with copper on each side, separated by the phenoic board
(you can find it pretty thin)

Take a very thin wire pair (teleco wire should work) and solder one wire
to each side. At the other end, terminate it with a miniature switch
and then encapsulate the switch (just tidying up - not really necessary.
Let the switch dangle and turn off the detector when you need to.

I like that idea - thanks. I've even got the copper coated phenolic - I
use it for HO scale railroad ties and solder rail to it :-).

Hmmmm - I may have to do the same thing in the train room so the
soldering won't set it off. Although it hasn't so far.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Mon, 05 Aug 2013 22:31:08 -0500, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

No problem, Larry. Hit Radio Shack and pick up a small piece of
printed circuit board with copper on each side, separated by the
phenoic board (you can find it pretty thin)

Take a very thin wire pair (teleco wire should work) and solder one
wire to each side. At the other end, terminate it with a miniature
switch and then encapsulate the switch (just tidying up - not really
necessary. Let the switch dangle and turn off the detector when
you need to.

I like that idea - thanks. I've even got the copper coated phenolic
- I use it for HO scale railroad ties and solder rail to it :-).

Hmmmm - I may have to do the same thing in the train room so the
soldering won't set it off. Although it hasn't so far.

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard light switch to the
hot lead for the detector, and turn it on and off as you please? Or - a
pull chain switch like used in fluorescent lights, that you could mount to
the junction box the detector is wired into? Can't get access to the
junction box? A box extender would solve that problem. You could mount the
pull chain switch to the side of the extender, wire it to the detector, and
screw the detector to the box extension. I admit - it does not have the
finished look of a true ceiling mount, and maybe that's a concern?

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard
light switch to the hot lead for the detector, and turn it
on and off as you please? Or - a pull chain switch like
used in fluorescent lights, that you could mount to the
junction box the detector is wired into? Can't get access
to the junction box? A box extender would solve that
problem. You could mount the pull chain switch to the side
of the extender, wire it to the detector, and screw the
detector to the box extension. I admit - it does not have
the finished look of a true ceiling mount, and maybe that's
a concern?


I don't know for a fact but I suspect modifications to smoke
alarms won't pass local fire code in most municipalities. That
may or may not be of concern to you but if you decide to
rent/sell the property you'll likely need to remove it.

Larry

On Tue, 06 Aug 2013 13:25:30 -0400, Mike Marlow wrote:

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard light switch to
the hot lead for the detector, and turn it on and off as you please? Or
- a pull chain switch like used in fluorescent lights, that you could
mount to the junction box the detector is wired into?

That would also work, but I think the prior solution would work on a
battery unit which would be easier.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 06 Aug 2013 13:25:30 -0400, Mike Marlow wrote:

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard light switch to
the hot lead for the detector, and turn it on and off as you please? Or
- a pull chain switch like used in fluorescent lights, that you could
mount to the junction box the detector is wired into?
That would also work, but I think the prior solution would work on a
battery unit which would be easier.

I don't know how these devices work, but it would not surprise me if a
smoke detector
that spends a lot of time in a smokey environment may have a shorter life.
Maybe it needs a "cover" instead? Or mount it so it can easily be taken
down?
I think both of these approaches are "safer" than a switch that doesn't
have a light on it.

Bill

Larry wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard
light switch to the hot lead for the detector, and turn it
on and off as you please? Or - a pull chain switch like
used in fluorescent lights, that you could mount to the
junction box the detector is wired into? Can't get access
to the junction box? A box extender would solve that
problem. You could mount the pull chain switch to the side
of the extender, wire it to the detector, and screw the
detector to the box extension. I admit - it does not have
the finished look of a true ceiling mount, and maybe that's
a concern?


I don't know for a fact but I suspect modifications to smoke
alarms won't pass local fire code in most municipalities. That
may or may not be of concern to you but if you decide to
rent/sell the property you'll likely need to remove it.


You wouldn't be modifiying the smoke alarm. You'd be modifying the
circuit - a technicality. But - if you do decide to sell it you simply
remove the switch. Any other alternative is going to require at least an
equal level of modification, perhaps more.

--

-Mike-

Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 06 Aug 2013 13:25:30 -0400, Mike Marlow wrote:

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard light switch
to the hot lead for the detector, and turn it on and off as you
please? Or - a pull chain switch like used in fluorescent lights,
that you could mount to the junction box the detector is wired into?

That would also work, but I think the prior solution would work on a
battery unit which would be easier.

Argh! Was not thinking battery...

--

-Mike-

On 8/6/2013 9:01 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 06 Aug 2013 13:25:30 -0400, Mike Marlow wrote:

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard light switch
to the hot lead for the detector, and turn it on and off as you
please? Or - a pull chain switch like used in fluorescent lights,
that you could mount to the junction box the detector is wired into?

That would also work, but I think the prior solution would work on a
battery unit which would be easier.

Argh! Was not thinking battery...

One further point of clarification... Larry, when I read your original
inquiry, I took it that you had NOT yet settled on a wired system.
Correct?

On Wed, 07 Aug 2013 09:01:52 -0500, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

One further point of clarification... Larry, when I read your original
inquiry, I took it that you had NOT yet settled on a wired system.
Correct?

Correct. I was going to do a surface mount switch and receptacle combo
just because I couldn't think of any other way to do it. But a battery
operated one would certainly be cheaper to install.

After reading the one solution with the PC board, I also thought of a
remote battery pack on a switch. That way I could put the switch right
next to the door and only run a couple of thin wires up to the alarm in
the center of the ceiling. I'll have to look into that a little more.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 23:20:44 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Aug 2013 13:25:30 -0400, Mike Marlow wrote:

Just curious Larry - why would you just wire a standard light switch to
the hot lead for the detector, and turn it on and off as you please? Or
- a pull chain switch like used in fluorescent lights, that you could
mount to the junction box the detector is wired into?

That would also work, but I think the prior solution would work on a
battery unit which would be easier.

For safety and insurance purposes I would incorporate a timer so that
after a certain amount of time it turned back on. Don't know about
you but I would forget to turn in back on all the time. It wouldn't
be that difficult and I can think of several ways to accomplish it.

Mike M

On 8/7/2013 1:02 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

After reading the one solution with the PC board, I also thought of a
remote battery pack on a switch. That way I could put the switch right
next to the door and only run a couple of thin wires up to the alarm in
the center of the ceiling. I'll have to look into that a little more.

Good idea since it will also allow you to place the detector in the best
position regardless of height. I encountered a similar problem and
applied a like solution.

I have a wireless weather station unit mounted to my Rohn television
tower. Unit is at about the 25' level and has a CR123 battery that has
a float charge across it by a solar cell. Despite continuous
transmission of temp, humidity, rainfall, wind direction and speed the
battery lasts a fairly long time. Regardless it never fails that it
craps out and the receiver is nagging me to go up there and change it out.

I decided that I was getting too old for that crap and ran a length of
CAT-5 cable up there, soldered together three wires for each side and
made a "battery placebo" out of suitable dowel rod and some round head
brass wood screws. Threaded the wire through the case and inserted the
"battery" in the transmitter, and then dress the CAT-5 cable down to a
position about 5' off the ground on the side of the house. Got a small
weather-proof parts box from Frey's along with a C-Cell battery holder
and that is now my battery. Rather than Lithium cell, I now use a
heftier Alkaline cell and after two years it's still turning and
burning. If it craps out in the middle of a blizzard I can still change
out the battery without doing more than walking through a bit of snow.

Cheaper, longer lasting and immensely easier to service. What's not to
like.

"Larry" wrote in message ...

Larry Blanchard wrote in
:


Just about got the garage converted to a shop. Since it's
attached to the house, I definitely want a dual sensor
smoke alarm. But I need one that I can turn off when I'm
out there working or it'd be false alarming all the time.

The best I've come up with so far is a hard wired alarm on
a switched circuit. But I'd love to find an alarm with an
on/off switch. Probably illegal to make them that way :-).

Anybody know of one? Or have an alternate solution?


The problem is that most come with a battery. Turning off the
power means removing the battery.

Run wires down to break the battery circuit, add switch.