I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Dick Snyder

On 1/28/2013 7:49 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Dick Snyder




Is there a question in there somewhere?

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/28/2013 7:49 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Dick Snyder




Is there a question in there somewhere?

Yes, the question is how do I sand it. I assume sand paper will just load up
with oily wood. Should I use a coarse sand paper or maybe steel wool or
......?

On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:49:15 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Wet or oily?


Any advice would be much appreciated.

Now's the time to buy a cabinet scraper and learn how to use it.
They're really great. Find 'em locally or buy online.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-pc-Scraper-Set/D3294

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.
--anon

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:49:15 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Wet or oily?


Any advice would be much appreciated.

Now's the time to buy a cabinet scraper and learn how to use it.
They're really great. Find 'em locally or buy online.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-pc-Scraper-Set/D3294

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.

I will try both methods. I used acetone to get rid of the oil where I glued
pieces together so I have some already. I have a cabinet scraper too and got
a nice lesson on forming the burr at a woodworking show out here 3 weeks
ago. I haven't had time to practice what I learned yet. I guess I will now.

Thanks for the tips.
--anon

On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:41:25 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:49:15 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Wet or oily?


Any advice would be much appreciated.

Now's the time to buy a cabinet scraper and learn how to use it.
They're really great. Find 'em locally or buy online.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-pc-Scraper-Set/D3294

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

I will try both methods. I used acetone to get rid of the oil where I glued
pieces together so I have some already. I have a cabinet scraper too and got
a nice lesson on forming the burr at a woodworking show out here 3 weeks
ago. I haven't had time to practice what I learned yet. I guess I will now.

Remember that for a less aggressive scraper, you don't have to turn a
burr at all. Just file flat and smooth on a diamond plate. I prefer
'em this way.


Thanks for the tips.

You're welcome.

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.
--anon

On 1/28/2013 8:01 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/28/2013 7:49 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Dick Snyder




Is there a question in there somewhere?

Yes, the question is how do I sand it. I assume sand paper will just load up
with oily wood. Should I use a coarse sand paper or maybe steel wool or
.....?



It will load but the type sand paper you use will make a big difference.
An open coat sand paper will be less likely to load up. FWIW I have
sanded a lot of oily woods, cocobolo and bocote to name a couple and
they felt oily. I'd suggest sanding and see what happens. If you get a
loading problem go to a hand plane or scraper.

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

45 minute flu, eh? I always ventilated well with that stuff. Had big fans
going, etc. I did a project about 3 months ago that involved several cans
of Rustoleum. I did them all outside. It dried a lot faster when exposed
to direct sunlight. Which only works when there is sun.

Take care of yourself Larry. What we used to get away with as youngsters
just don't work any more.

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior
to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I
forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)
------------------------------------------------------------------
If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:51076141$0$46956
:

If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew


Isn't acetone a key ingredient in some nail polish removers? All the more
reason to stay away from nail polish... *g*

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 1/29/2013 12:42 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior
to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I
forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)
------------------------------------------------------------------
If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew

I saw a guy who was putting laminate on his counter with contact cement.
He forgot the pilot light. It blew him through the door out into the
yard. No serious injuries though. It may have been the alcohol fumes
from his breath that caused the explosion.

--
G.W.Ross

What am I doing out of bed!?!?

Dick Snyder wrote:
I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my
crappy stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to
remove some marks. I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any
advice for me? All I can find when I google is advice on boat decks
and outdoor teak furniture where the teak has dried out in the sun.
My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I purchased from a wood supplier in my
area and it is still pretty oily.
Any advice would be much appreciated.


There is nothing special about sanding teak. Regular ol' aluminum oxide
paper in your choice of grits by hand, ROS, belt, disc, pad...



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 00:11:16 -0500, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Larry Jaques" wrote

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

45 minute flu, eh? I always ventilated well with that stuff. Had big fans
going, etc. I did a project about 3 months ago that involved several cans
of Rustoleum. I did them all outside. It dried a lot faster when exposed
to direct sunlight. Which only works when there is sun.

Take care of yourself Larry. What we used to get away with as youngsters
just don't work any more.

You're absolutely right. I had thought the project was small enough
(and the shop lost enough air) that it wouldn't be a problem. (3'
long 4" sat dish tube) Never again. That's some nasty ****, Maynard.

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.
--anon

Lee Michaels wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

45 minute flu, eh? I always ventilated well with that stuff. Had
big fans going, etc. I did a project about 3 months ago that
involved several cans of Rustoleum. I did them all outside. It
dried a lot faster when exposed to direct sunlight. Which only works
when there is sun.

An absolute must with Rustoleum products - especially black. It really
wants direct sunlight to dry.

--

-Mike-

On Jan 29, 2:57*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:51076141$0$46956
:

If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew

Isn't acetone a key ingredient in some nail polish removers? *All the more
reason to stay away from nail polish... *g*

Acetone is one of the least toxic solvents.

On Jan 28, 11:24*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 1/28/2013 8:01 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:









"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
m...
On 1/28/2013 7:49 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is *an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Dick Snyder

Is there a question in there somewhere?

Yes, the question is how do I sand it. I assume sand paper will just load up
with oily wood. Should I use a coarse sand paper or maybe steel wool or
.....?

It will load but the type sand paper you use will make a big difference.
* An open coat sand paper will be less likely to load up. *FWIW I have
sanded a lot of oily woods, cocobolo and bocote to name a couple and
they felt oily. *I'd suggest sanding and see what happens. *If you get a
loading problem go to a hand plane or scraper.

Teak has a high silica content. Plan to sharpen frequently.

On Jan 28, 8:49*pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some marks.
I know teak is *an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Dick Snyder

Sand from 60 through 150. Coarse-textured wood, so no sense
going finer. It loads paper, so plan on burning up a few sheets.

On 1/29/2013 4:46 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 29, 2:57 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:51076141$0$46956
:

If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew

Isn't acetone a key ingredient in some nail polish removers? All the more
reason to stay away from nail polish... *g*

Acetone is one of the least toxic solvents.


I agree, but remember that acetone is a very volatile material, so it is
like gasoline, and can be dangerous.

Also while it is not very toxic, unrestrained use can cause damage to
the body. The most obvious will be the defatting of your skin. If you
use it, the fat loss must be replaced with a good hand cream. (No it
will not work on love handles that meet in the middle of your stomach)

Like any solvent and many drugs; alcohol, acetone, Acetaminophen, etc
can caused liver damage, so another reason to handle it with care.

On 1/29/2013 5:17 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 1/29/2013 4:46 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 29, 2:57 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:51076141$0$46956
:

If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew

Isn't acetone a key ingredient in some nail polish removers? All the
more
reason to stay away from nail polish... *g*

Acetone is one of the least toxic solvents.


I agree, but remember that acetone is a very volatile material, so it is
like gasoline, and can be dangerous.

Perhaps more volatile than gasoline, it will evaporate before your eyes.

On 29 Jan 2013 07:57:15 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:51076141$0$46956
:

If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew


Isn't acetone a key ingredient in some nail polish removers? All the more
reason to stay away from nail polish... *g*

Puckdropper

I'm not going to even ask. 8-)

Mike M

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:49:15 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Wet or oily?


Any advice would be much appreciated.

Now's the time to buy a cabinet scraper and learn how to use it.
They're really great. Find 'em locally or buy online.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-pc-Scraper-Set/D3294

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.


Larry, the cabinet scraper worked great. I did not put a burr on it as you
suggested. I finished up with a light touch of Abranet sanding mesh attached
to my ROS with a shop vac so I did not get much loading up. Thanks again for
the idea.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:24:38 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:49:15 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Wet or oily?


Any advice would be much appreciated.

Now's the time to buy a cabinet scraper and learn how to use it.
They're really great. Find 'em locally or buy online.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-pc-Scraper-Set/D3294

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.


Larry, the cabinet scraper worked great. I did not put a burr on it as you
suggested. I finished up with a light touch of Abranet sanding mesh attached
to my ROS with a shop vac so I did not get much loading up. Thanks again for
the idea.

I'm glad to hear that, Dick. What were you touching up with the mesh?
I've found that scrapers give me a better-than-400 grit finish while
the meshes I've bought are usually 150 grit. I touch up with 320 or
400 paper.

--
I’ve long been passionate about protecting and expanding democracy,
which is really the only viable mechanism to preserve liberty and
distribute power from kings to the rest of us.
--George Farah

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:24:38 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:49:15 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I have just completed a teak cover (top, bottom, and sides) for my
crappy
stone mantle on my fireplace. I want to sand the teak to remove some
marks.
I know teak is an oily wood. Does anyone have any advice for me? All I
can
find when I google is advice on boat decks and outdoor teak furniture
where
the teak has dried out in the sun. My mantle cover is 3/4" teak I
purchased
from a wood supplier in my area and it is still pretty oily.

Wet or oily?


Any advice would be much appreciated.

Now's the time to buy a cabinet scraper and learn how to use it.
They're really great. Find 'em locally or buy online.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-pc-Scraper-Set/D3294

Alternatively, you can always wipe it down with acetone just prior to
sanding. It's just wood. Don't forget to ventilate well. (I forgot
to when doing a small amount of painting with Rustoleum a couple
months ago and got a case of 45 minute flu from it. Thought I was
gonna die for a while.)

--
Poverty is easy. It's Charity and Chastity that are hard.


Larry, the cabinet scraper worked great. I did not put a burr on it as you
suggested. I finished up with a light touch of Abranet sanding mesh
attached
to my ROS with a shop vac so I did not get much loading up. Thanks again
for
the idea.

I'm glad to hear that, Dick. What were you touching up with the mesh?
I've found that scrapers give me a better-than-400 grit finish while
the meshes I've bought are usually 150 grit. I touch up with 320 or
400 paper.

--
I've long been passionate about protecting and expanding democracy,
which is really the only viable mechanism to preserve liberty and
distribute power from kings to the rest of us.
--George Farah

The front edge of my piece is narrower than the scraper (3 1/4"). I was
worried about an inadvertent gouge in one of the two edges of the piece.

[..snip...]

I will try both methods. I used acetone to get rid of the oil where I glued
pieces together so I have some already. I have a cabinet scraper too and got
a nice lesson on forming the burr at a woodworking show out here 3 weeks
ago. I haven't had time to practice what I learned yet. I guess I will now.


What I have learned about forming the burr is to have a light touch,
both when you burnish the flats on the scraper to roll out the steel,
and when you actually roll the burr. You'd think a bigger hook would
do a faster job but, not really.

Also your burnisher needs to be hard and smooth. Harder than the
scraper, and some scrapers today are made out of very hard metal, more
so than in the past. I just tried using a solid carbide router bit as
a burnisher, it worked better than my Hock burnisher on my harder
steel scrapers.

On Jan 29, 6:55*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 1/29/2013 5:17 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:









On 1/29/2013 4:46 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 29, 2:57 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:51076141$0$46956
:

If you EVER use acetone, or similar hydrocarbon solvent indoors,
make DAMN SURE ALL gas pilot lights are turned OFF.

Failure to do so will almost certainly insure you will have a bomb
go off and a resulting fire.

Ask the flooring contractors or guys who reface cabinets with
laminate.

Lew

Isn't acetone a key ingredient in some nail polish removers? *All the
more
reason to stay away from nail polish... *g*

Acetone is one of the least toxic solvents.

I agree, but remember that acetone is a very volatile material, so it is
like gasoline, and can be dangerous.

Perhaps more volatile than gasoline, it will evaporate before your eyes.

How heavy are the fumes? What makes gasoline
suicide to use indoors is its weight, which makes
the fumes pool and concentrate in low areas.