Hi Folks,

I make shallow (2"-3") deep boxes ranging from 6" to 8" in diameter.

I use both Merit powerlock 2" disks with the rubber pads and veclro backer
pads with 3" wave paper.

Looking to see how well these kinds of tools might do on my work - anyone
have any experience?

thanks
George

in my experience, the inertia sanders don't do well on typical boxes
(inside) - the shape is not conducive to making the sandpaper turn


"George Saridakis" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks,

I make shallow (2"-3") deep boxes ranging from 6" to 8" in diameter.

I use both Merit powerlock 2" disks with the rubber pads and veclro backer
pads with 3" wave paper.

Looking to see how well these kinds of tools might do on my work - anyone
have any experience?

thanks
George

My experience it that the inertia disk sanders work pretty well on the
outside of the bowls that I have turned. They don't do well on tight radius
cuts/features inside a turning (aka box) or near the exact center of the
piece (you can end up with a "nipple" in the center of the piece if your not
careful because the sanding disk nearly stops when near the center and you
get little or no sanding).
Just my experience
"George Saridakis" wrote in message
....
Hi Folks,

I make shallow (2"-3") deep boxes ranging from 6" to 8" in diameter.

I use both Merit powerlock 2" disks with the rubber pads and veclro backer
pads with 3" wave paper.

Looking to see how well these kinds of tools might do on my work - anyone
have any experience?

thanks
George

I prefer power sanding on bowls because I can control the speed of the
sanding disk independent of the rpm and diameter of the bowl, and also
because I can stop the bowl and work on problem areas by themselves. I
use a 3/8" variable speed drill with the sanding disk held in a 6" drill
bit extension. I turned a handgrip for the extension so I can hold that,
not the drill - more comfortable and better control. I personally prefer
slow speed sanding - less heat and the sandpaper works more efficiently
and lasts longer - so I have been happier with drills that max out at
around 1200 - 1300 rpm and usually sand at only a fraction of that. The
lower gearing also means these drills have more power for equal amp
ratings than higher speed drills for regular drilling and driving
applications. If you want to try powerless sanding before investing, you
can do it on the cheap by making your own handle without the bearings,
drill a hole at an appropiate angle, add a drop of grease, insert your
sanding disk, and have at it. Make sure the hole is shallow enough that
the stem bottoms in the hole so the disk itself doesn't rub on the handle.
I use one occasionally to reach deep inside something, and I don't even
bother to turn the handle, I just use a square stick of wood ripped from 4
quarter lumber and cut to whatever length I want. These work so well that
I suspect the fancy ones you can buy only have bearings so that they have
something to sell, because there probably wouldn't be much market for a
stick with a hole in it.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 19:16:24 -0400, Denis Marier
wrote:
I like the idea of using a 6" bit extension.
But I am having problem to picture the handle.

The handle is a piece of wood the length of the extension with a hole
through it lengthwise. The drill bit extension goes through the hole
which is a slightly loose fit and greased so the extension is free to
rotate while I grip the handle. I turned a shape that fits my hand
comfortably, and with a flare at each end so my hand can't accidently slip
off.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

I have experimented using your idea.
It works and may be useful where you cannot reach with the 3/8 power drill.

"Mike Paulson" wrote in message
...
I prefer power sanding on bowls because I can control the speed of the
sanding disk independent of the rpm and diameter of the bowl, and also
because I can stop the bowl and work on problem areas by themselves. I
use a 3/8" variable speed drill with the sanding disk held in a 6" drill
bit extension. I turned a handgrip for the extension so I can hold that,
not the drill - more comfortable and better control. I personally prefer
slow speed sanding - less heat and the sandpaper works more efficiently
and lasts longer - so I have been happier with drills that max out at
around 1200 - 1300 rpm and usually sand at only a fraction of that. The
lower gearing also means these drills have more power for equal amp
ratings than higher speed drills for regular drilling and driving
applications. If you want to try powerless sanding before investing, you
can do it on the cheap by making your own handle without the bearings,
drill a hole at an appropiate angle, add a drop of grease, insert your
sanding disk, and have at it. Make sure the hole is shallow enough that
the stem bottoms in the hole so the disk itself doesn't rub on the handle.
I use one occasionally to reach deep inside something, and I don't even
bother to turn the handle, I just use a square stick of wood ripped from 4
quarter lumber and cut to whatever length I want. These work so well that
I suspect the fancy ones you can buy only have bearings so that they have
something to sell, because there probably wouldn't be much market for a
stick with a hole in it.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co