I'm looking for recommendations for a router table top for which I can
make my own base.

This will have to be a benchtop unit as I don't have room in my shop
for a router table with a floor standing base.

If I'm going to be making the rail and stile cabinet doors for my
kitchen, I've got to upgrade from my old stamped steel benchtop router
table to something with a decent fence and dust collection.

I've googled around a bit and found some at MLCS and Kreg, but I'd
like to hear about some other options or reviews of those if they are
recommended.

Any ideas for a portable benchtop router table would be appreciated.

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Can be hung from the rafters, weighs squat yet flat and precise:
http://patwarner.com/router_table_cd.html

On Wednesday, December 19, 2012 1:31:07 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a router table top for which I can make my own base. This will have to be a benchtop unit as I don't have room in my shop for a router table with a floor standing base. If I'm going to be making the rail and stile cabinet doors for my kitchen, I've got to upgrade from my old stamped steel benchtop router table to something with a decent fence and dust collection. I've googled around a bit and found some at MLCS and Kreg, but I'd like to hear about some other options or reviews of those if they are recommended. Any ideas for a portable benchtop router table would be appreciated. Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Well, I think any table top unit is going to be only slighty better than the one you describe you have now. I have a wonderful top from Woodpeckers snd love their super fence or wonder fence or whatever they call it. I bought the biggest top they had and the steel frame legs kit and their sidewinder router lift and never looked back.

I built my own using double 3/4 MDF with melamine top. Went to double depth for the added stability. Bought the HF router split fence and used miter track for my TS miter gauge. Works great. About $50 total.

Larry

On Wednesday, December 19, 2012 3:31:07 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a router table top for which I can

make my own base.



This will have to be a benchtop unit as I don't have room in my shop

for a router table with a floor standing base.



If I'm going to be making the rail and stile cabinet doors for my

kitchen, I've got to upgrade from my old stamped steel benchtop router

table to something with a decent fence and dust collection.



I've googled around a bit and found some at MLCS and Kreg, but I'd

like to hear about some other options or reviews of those if they are

recommended.



Any ideas for a portable benchtop router table would be appreciated.



Thanks and Happy Holidays!

On Wednesday, December 19, 2012 3:31:07 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a router table top for which I can

make my own base.



This will have to be a benchtop unit as I don't have room in my shop

for a router table with a floor standing base.



If I'm going to be making the rail and stile cabinet doors for my

kitchen, I've got to upgrade from my old stamped steel benchtop router

table to something with a decent fence and dust collection.



I've googled around a bit and found some at MLCS and Kreg, but I'd

like to hear about some other options or reviews of those if they are

recommended.



Any ideas for a portable benchtop router table would be appreciated.



Thanks and Happy Holidays!

I built a pretty nice top from MDF with a tempered hardboard top that mounts between the rails on my Grizzly cabinet saw. I also built a fence with adjustable faces, rail and upper dust collection that mounts to the saw fence with a couple of Irwin hand clamps. Doesn't take up any floorspace and works great. Took an afternoon to build the table and a day or so to build the fence.

RonB

RonB wrote:


I built a pretty nice top from MDF with a tempered hardboard top that
mounts between the rails on my Grizzly cabinet saw. I also built a
fence with adjustable faces, rail and upper dust collection that
mounts to the saw fence with a couple of Irwin hand clamps. Doesn't
take up any floorspace and works great. Took an afternoon to build
the table and a day or so to build the fence.


Smokes mine! I just built my router into one of the extensions on my table
saw and installer a Rockler insert. I just slide my table saw fence over
when I need a fence. No split fence - I guess I haven't done enough routing
to have hit the need for that yet. Certainly no dust collection on mine!
With the amount of dust and very fine stuff that gets all over everything in
my garage that I generate, dust collection would be a waste. Hell -
cleaning up the dust and mess from woodworking is a walk in the park
compared to the normal cleanup from painting and metal fab.

I love mine for the same reasons Rob does - takes up no space, is always set
up and (almost) ready to go, requires next to no effort to do most
everything I do with a router, and can easily accomodate a split fence if I
ever hit that need.

Ron - I would be interested in some pics of your split fence though. I
especially like that it easily attaches to your saw fence. I might just go
ahead and make one of these as part of my current facination with building
some jigs (that I should have built long ago - next time I won't have to
fight so much...), finally rigging up a splitter on my table saw (see - I
can learn new things...), and some other long overdue things that I'm just
finally getting around to doing - just for the hell of it.

--

-Mike-

On 12/19/2012 4:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a router table top for which I can
make my own base.

This will have to be a benchtop unit as I don't have room in my shop
for a router table with a floor standing base.

If I'm going to be making the rail and stile cabinet doors for my
kitchen, I've got to upgrade from my old stamped steel benchtop router
table to something with a decent fence and dust collection.

I've googled around a bit and found some at MLCS and Kreg, but I'd
like to hear about some other options or reviews of those if they are
recommended.

Any ideas for a portable benchtop router table would be appreciated.

Thanks and Happy Holidays!


Here's what I would do
I would consider building my own.
if you don't check out mlcs, peachtree or others.

What you don't need.
I can't remember using my miter gauge ... you don't need a track. Wish I
didn't have one. Others may disagree, I just reference the fence.

You do need a fence. I bought a fence angle extrusion, then built the
rest of it. I would recommend making the fence ends mitered or
chamfered. Mine are 45degrees. I can close the fence on to a zero
clearance insert.. it has a 45 too, so the fence wings lock the insert
in. Very important to have zero clearance when doing rail /stile coping
cuts. A fence from MDF is a good dead level fence. its heavy
but you can take it off to move your benchtop unit.

Next your table can be used in two different directions.
Mine is rectangular, when doing long stuff I go length wise. When doing
panels, I will usually turn 90 so my table now supports the panels
better. I just mount my fence using clamps now to support it as it
wasn't made for that direction.

Your table can be as simple as a hole in a mdf or Formica panel, with
your router bolted to it.

Or you can go full speed ahead, and get a removable insert.
I have a Rousseau insert. It's not a standard size. Get a standard size
because if you ever want to change to a different insert, you'll be able
to. I didn't know that when I bought the insert.

As with a table saw... #1 importance (aside from TS alignment) is the
fence. The same for your router table.


One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you want
the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for certain
operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.

At times my router table is used heavily, other times not so much, but
its great having it ready any time. Make sure you build it so you can
use it later on. You want weight to keep it from moving and vibrating.
But weight in a bench top unit means you'll not move it around or you'll
avoid using it if you have to lift it. So consider lighter, but with a
base that can easily be clamped to the bench to make it part of the
bench. maybe put a bottom on it that extends past the vertical supports,
so that would be your clamping area. If you are going to keep it light,
Baltic birch.. would be a good option in thickness less than 3/4 ..

Lastly, I built a coping sled for the ends of the rail/stile. It's not
necessary, as I used to use a sacrificial board cut to 90. But I had
made it easier to hold an register to the fence. simple and effective..
don't waste your money on one.. 20 minutes to make.

so now that I spent all this time writing and not proofing. I hope the
info comes across clearly.

tiredofspam wrote:

One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you want
the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for certain
operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.

I agree with most of what you wrote but disagree with the above. My split
fence isn't a Freud or anything else, made it some 20 years ago.

I use it a lot for joining, preferring it to my joiner for some things. For
example, I cut melamine panels oversize then clean up the chipping on the
router table. Much easier to do a panel flat on the table than vertical on
a joiner. And yes, I know there are blades that say they'll cut mel board
without chipping but I don't do enough to warrant the cost.

I do agree that one needs to be able to get the fence sections into the same
plane but that is a trivial task.

BTW, if your fence isn't two pieces, how do you close the "wings" onto a
zero clearance insert?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 12/19/2012 3:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a router table top for which I can
make my own base.

This will have to be a benchtop unit as I don't have room in my shop
for a router table with a floor standing base.

If I'm going to be making the rail and stile cabinet doors for my
kitchen, I've got to upgrade from my old stamped steel benchtop router
table to something with a decent fence and dust collection.

I've googled around a bit and found some at MLCS and Kreg, but I'd
like to hear about some other options or reviews of those if they are
recommended.

Any ideas for a portable benchtop router table would be appreciated.

Thanks and Happy Holidays!




After building my first two and using them for several years I bought
this one 12 years ago and have not given it a second thought.

http://benchdog.com/ProTop-Phenolic.cfm

They have the smaller style yo ulare asking about too.

http://benchdog.com/protopcontractor.cfm

On Dec 19, 11:03*pm, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
On 12/19/2012 4:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I'm looking for recommendations for a router table top for which I can
make my own base.

....snip...


You do need a fence. I bought a fence angle extrusion, then built the
rest of it. I would recommend making the fence ends mitered or
chamfered. Mine are 45degrees. I can close the fence on to a zero
clearance insert.. it has a 45 too, so the fence wings lock the insert
in. Very important to have zero clearance when doing rail /stile coping
cuts. A fence from MDF is a good dead level fence. its heavy
but you can take it off to move your benchtop unit.

I'm not sure what I have, or where it came from, but in my box of bits
and other router parts and pieces, I have what I believe to be a zero
clearance insert for a 1/4" straight bit. It's a round metal disk with
a collar the extends below the disk about a 1/4" inch. It fits
perfectly into the hole in the top of the router table.

The issue is that the collar also extends above the bit about 1/32".
In order to cut a slot, you have to lift the end of the wood slightly
to get it over the lip

....snip...

One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you want
the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for certain
operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.

My current (cheapo) table has a split fence and I don't like it.



At times my router table is used heavily, other times not so much, but
its great having it ready any time. Make sure you build it so you can
use it later on. You want weight to keep it from moving and vibrating.
But weight in a bench top unit means you'll not move it around or you'll
avoid using it if you have to lift it. So consider lighter, but with a
base that can easily be clamped to the bench to make it part of the
bench. maybe put a bottom on it that extends past the vertical supports,
so that would be your clamping area. If you are going to keep it light,
Baltic birch.. would be a good option in thickness less than 3/4 ..

My current table is mounted on a piece of plywood which I clamp to the
workbench. The only problem is that the legs are too short to remove
the router without unclamping it. Since the router requires 2 wrenches
to change the bit, it (the motor) basically needs to be unmounted, so
the table needs to be unclamped. PITA

The base I plan to build will be tall enough allow me to remove the
router without unclamping the table.


Lastly, I built a coping sled for the ends of the rail/stile. It's not
necessary, as I used to use a sacrificial board cut to 90. But I had
made it easier to hold an register to the fence. simple and effective..
don't waste your money on one.. 20 minutes to make.

ahh...but using a sled is in direct opposition to dpb suggested method
of coping wider stock, sticking both edges and then ripping it on the
table saw.

I have not yet tried either method as I don't have a rail and stilr
bit yet (SWMBO has told me what profile we want yet.)


so now that I spent all this time writing and not proofing. I hope the
info comes across clearly.- Hide quoted text -


Clear enough! Thanks.

DerbyDad03 wrote:


I'm not sure what I have, or where it came from, but in my box of bits
and other router parts and pieces, I have what I believe to be a zero
clearance insert for a 1/4" straight bit. It's a round metal disk with
a collar the extends below the disk about a 1/4" inch. It fits
perfectly into the hole in the top of the router table.

The issue is that the collar also extends above the bit about 1/32".
In order to cut a slot, you have to lift the end of the wood slightly
to get it over the lip

Sort of like a, uhhh...template guide like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FT1301-1.../dp/B00004RJYX
_______________

My current (cheapo) table has a split fence and I don't like it.

Easy to make an unsplit one, any board (with a straight edge) will do.
________________

My current table is mounted on a piece of plywood which I clamp to the
workbench. The only problem is that the legs are too short to remove
the router without unclamping it. Since the router requires 2 wrenches
to change the bit, it (the motor) basically needs to be unmounted, so
the table needs to be unclamped. PITA

So make a bigger hole and base plate.
________________

ahh...but using a sled is in direct opposition to dpb suggested method
of coping wider stock, sticking both edges and then ripping it on the
table saw.

Not necessarily, depends on how wide the stock is and how long. Doing
something 3' long and even a foot wide could use a sled. The whole idea of
a sled is to get the push up close to the fence.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

I've googled around a bit and found some at MLCS and Kreg, but I'd like
to hear about some other options or reviews of those if they are
recommended.

Any ideas for a portable benchtop router table would be appreciated.

I bought this one (when it was on sale):

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...arthtml/pages/
router_table_3.html

And mounted it on the end of a rolling tool stand with these:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...lf-bracket-12-
pair.aspx

Since the motor on my Dewalt router is easily removed from its base, I
can remove it and keep the table folded almost flat when not in use. I
say "almost" because the base holds the angle to about 75 degrees instead
of 90.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On Thu, 20 Dec 2012 08:43:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
After building my first two and using them for several years I bought
this one 12 years ago and have not given it a second thought.
http://benchdog.com/ProTop-Phenolic.cfm

Yes, I'm sure that type of router bench would work fine for 99% of the
routing that most of us would do. The really tough part of
building/buying yourself a router bench is not going overboard with
all the available options and top of the line router benches.

They certainly look great and probably function very well, but in my
opinion, after a certain point it's just for show and the pride of
owning one.

And no, in case anyone is thinking of saying it, you can't apply the
same thought to Festool.

Subject

There are two extremes.

1) a 35" x 36" x 3/4" piece of MDF with a hole in the center and a
fixed
router base mounted underneath, supported by a pair of saw horses.

Add a couple of C-Clamps and a 2ba4 for a fence.

Set up in the drive way to use, knock down for storage.

Sweep drive to clean up.

Has been used lot of times.

2) Norm's router station from the NYW with a suitable router lift.

Great piece of equipment and FUN to build.

Keeps ALL your router accessories in one place.

Has built in dust collection.

Downside: It occupies floor space.

Lew

On 12/20/2012 7:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:

One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you want
the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for certain
operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.

I agree with most of what you wrote but disagree with the above. My split
fence isn't a Freud or anything else, made it some 20 years ago.

I use it a lot for joining, preferring it to my joiner for some things. For
example, I cut melamine panels oversize then clean up the chipping on the
router table. Much easier to do a panel flat on the table than vertical on
a joiner. And yes, I know there are blades that say they'll cut mel board
without chipping but I don't do enough to warrant the cost.

I do agree that one needs to be able to get the fence sections into the same
plane but that is a trivial task.

BTW, if your fence isn't two pieces, how do you close the "wings" onto a
zero clearance insert?

Ah thats a good question, I'll take a picture, it'll be worth a thousand
words

On 12/20/2012 7:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:

One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you want
the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for certain
operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.

I agree with most of what you wrote but disagree with the above. My split
fence isn't a Freud or anything else, made it some 20 years ago.

I use it a lot for joining, preferring it to my joiner for some things. For
example, I cut melamine panels oversize then clean up the chipping on the
router table. Much easier to do a panel flat on the table than vertical on
a joiner. And yes, I know there are blades that say they'll cut mel board
without chipping but I don't do enough to warrant the cost.

I do agree that one needs to be able to get the fence sections into the same
plane but that is a trivial task.

BTW, if your fence isn't two pieces, how do you close the "wings" onto a
zero clearance insert?

See the binaries for pics."router fence"

On Wednesday, December 19, 2012 8:06:40 PM UTC-6, Mike Marlow wrote:
RonB wrote:





I built a pretty nice top from MDF with a tempered hardboard top that

mounts between the rails on my Grizzly cabinet saw. I also built a

fence with adjustable faces, rail and upper dust collection that

mounts to the saw fence with a couple of Irwin hand clamps. Doesn't

take up any floorspace and works great. Took an afternoon to build

the table and a day or so to build the fence.





Smokes mine! I just built my router into one of the extensions on my table

saw and installer a Rockler insert. I just slide my table saw fence over

when I need a fence. No split fence - I guess I haven't done enough routing

to have hit the need for that yet. Certainly no dust collection on mine!

With the amount of dust and very fine stuff that gets all over everything in

my garage that I generate, dust collection would be a waste. Hell -

cleaning up the dust and mess from woodworking is a walk in the park

compared to the normal cleanup from painting and metal fab.



I love mine for the same reasons Rob does - takes up no space, is always set

up and (almost) ready to go, requires next to no effort to do most

everything I do with a router, and can easily accomodate a split fence if I

ever hit that need.



Ron - I would be interested in some pics of your split fence though. I

especially like that it easily attaches to your saw fence. I might just go

ahead and make one of these as part of my current facination with building

some jigs (that I should have built long ago - next time I won't have to

fight so much...), finally rigging up a splitter on my table saw (see - I

can learn new things...), and some other long overdue things that I'm just

finally getting around to doing - just for the hell of it.



--



-Mike-



Pics Attached. Note the one labeled "Table2web". When I built it I envisioned clamping the fence to the table top in this reverse position and using the table saw slot for miter gage work. I have a couple of times but not as much as I thought. the insert has a pin hole for a guide pin and I do use that for semi-freehand work.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2781671...7632296555119/

RonB

RonB wrote:


Pics Attached. Note the one labeled "Table2web". When I built it I
envisioned clamping the fence to the table top in this reverse
position and using the table saw slot for miter gage work. I have a
couple of times but not as much as I thought. the insert has a pin
hole for a guide pin and I do use that for semi-freehand work.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2781671...7632296555119/

RonB

I like it Ron. I might have to steal that idea. I really like that it just
clamps to your saw fence so easily. I'm big on that kind of useability. I
really, really like your clamps to lock down the adjustments on your fence
(split). Quarter turn and good to go. Saves energy and lets you focus on
more important things, rather than spending all that time screwing down
fasteners...

Question - what do you use the slot for in the router fence? Has it proven
to be useful, or not enough so to bother with?

--

-Mike-

On Thursday, December 20, 2012 9:48:54 PM UTC-6, Mike Marlow wrote:
RonB wrote:





Pics Attached. Note the one labeled "Table2web". When I built it I

envisioned clamping the fence to the table top in this reverse

position and using the table saw slot for miter gage work. I have a

couple of times but not as much as I thought. the insert has a pin

hole for a guide pin and I do use that for semi-freehand work.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/2781671...7632296555119/



RonB



I like it Ron. I might have to steal that idea. I really like that it just

clamps to your saw fence so easily. I'm big on that kind of useability. I

really, really like your clamps to lock down the adjustments on your fence

(split). Quarter turn and good to go. Saves energy and lets you focus on

more important things, rather than spending all that time screwing down

fasteners...



Question - what do you use the slot for in the router fence? Has it proven

to be useful, or not enough so to bother with?



--



-Mike-



I was looking at it this afternoon and I was wrong when I said the table was made from MDF. I made it from a glued up double thickness of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood with a tempered hardboard top. Memory slipped in the 5-6 years since I built it -- but MDF would work too.

The overall fence design is similar to several I saw in magazines. The slot is used mainly for featherboards and it is used occasionally. Not sure I would put it in again.

RonB

tiredofspam wrote:

See the binaries for pics."router fence"

I'd love to. *Which* binary group?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

tiredofspam wrote:
On 12/20/2012 7:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:

One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you want
the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for certain
operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.

I agree with most of what you wrote but disagree with the above. My split
fence isn't a Freud or anything else, made it some 20 years ago.

I use it a lot for joining, preferring it to my joiner for some things. For
example, I cut melamine panels oversize then clean up the chipping on the
router table. Much easier to do a panel flat on the table than vertical on
a joiner. And yes, I know there are blades that say they'll cut mel board
without chipping but I don't do enough to warrant the cost.

I do agree that one needs to be able to get the fence sections into the same
plane but that is a trivial task.

BTW, if your fence isn't two pieces, how do you close the "wings" onto a
zero clearance insert?

See the binaries for pics."router fence"

Your setup looks almost identical to mine. My fence looks a little cruder.

--
G.W. Ross

'Bother,' said Pooh, as he saw the
mushroom cloud.

On Fri, 21 Dec 2012 05:05:07 -0500, "dadiOH"
See the binaries for pics."router fence"

I'd love to. *Which* binary group?

He's talking about the binaries sister group to the rec.
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

tiredofspam wrote:
On 12/20/2012 7:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:

One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you
want the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for
certain operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.

I agree with most of what you wrote but disagree with the above. My
split fence isn't a Freud or anything else, made it some 20 years
ago. I use it a lot for joining, preferring it to my joiner for some
things. For example, I cut melamine panels oversize then clean up
the chipping on the router table. Much easier to do a panel flat on
the table than vertical on a joiner. And yes, I know there are
blades that say they'll cut mel board without chipping but I don't
do enough to warrant the cost. I do agree that one needs to be able to
get the fence sections into
the same plane but that is a trivial task.

BTW, if your fence isn't two pieces, how do you close the "wings"
onto a zero clearance insert?

See the binaries for pics."router fence"

Ah, OK. So it *IS* a split fence, just not one that adjusts back and
forthas well as laterally. Looks nice.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 12/19/2012 10:03 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
....

One more thing, DO NOT BUY a two piece fence like the FREUD.. you want
the fence in the same plane. The ones that adjust each side
independently are useless. You can shim a side if you need for certain
operations but having them out of planar is a disaster.
....

I don't know what the Freud design is, but it definitely is a benefit to
have a split fence that is adjustable w/o having to fiddle w/ shims. If
they don't have that and aren't designed to do so while maintaining the
two halves parallel, then they're just not up to the job.

I use the small 1/2-hp Delta shaper fence for the router as well when do
use it in table (which isn't a lot since have both the 1/2" and 3/4-1"
spindle shapers, why would one fool around w/ the router???

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=13835

Best view of fence casting at bottom...I don't think this casting is
available as new part any longer altho it is identical (down to casting
numbers) to the one on the larger shaper that is a hybrid
Walker-Turner/Rockwell machine dating from the late 40s/early 50s.
These do come up on auctions/estate sales from time to time, however,
and I recommend them highly...

--