I am trying to make a half round edge on a piece of oak with a 1/4" round
over on top and bottom. For reasons I won't bore you with, I can't use a
1/4" round over bit on one side and then flip the workpiece over and use it
on the other side. I have a router table with a fence. I'm thinking about
buying a bull nose router bit to get the job done smoothly. Can I push the
wood along the fence with this bit or must I use a hand router and guide?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am trying to make a half round edge on a piece of oak with a 1/4" round
over on top and bottom. For reasons I won't bore you with, I can't use a
1/4" round over bit on one side and then flip the workpiece over and use
it
on the other side. I have a router table with a fence. I'm thinking about
buying a bull nose router bit to get the job done smoothly. Can I push the
wood along the fence with this bit or must I use a hand router and guide?

Both the two 1/4 and the bullnose would require the same fencing setup. Ad
hoc fence with the image of the bit cut into it, and ride the 'nose. If you
could fence the one, you can fence the other. The advantage of the table
over the hand-held should be obvious.

I have done a bullnose on a table. If you are really really careful, you
can set the fence so the center of the bullnose just kisses the wood. Then
it goes across the fence without a problem.

Sorry to be dense here but I don't quite understand. Do you mean that the
deepest part of the bullnose just touches the edge of the workpiece? If that
is the case I guess the right strategy would be the old sneak up on it where
I would move the fence back from the bit and make a cut. Repeat until the
deepest part of the bullnose just touches the center of the workpiece edge.


"toller" wrote in message
...
I have done a bullnose on a table. If you are really really careful, you
can set the fence so the center of the bullnose just kisses the wood. Then
it goes across the fence without a problem.

Yep, sneak up on it as you stated with a test piece until its just
right.

Bob.

I pondered this as well, and I'm guessing something is fastened to one
face preventing him from flipping it over.

George said the following on 1/27/2005 3:42 PM:

Both the two 1/4 and the bullnose would require the same fencing setup. Ad
hoc fence with the image of the bit cut into it, and ride the 'nose. If you
could fence the one, you can fence the other. The advantage of the table
over the hand-held should be obvious.

I'm hoping you've done the math and know with a 1/4" radius
top and bottom you're limited to a 1/2" bullnose bit and
your stock is 1/2" and not 3/4"?

If your stock is 3/4" I'm thinking there might be a bit all
ready to go from someone like CMT (at least I see it in my
head).

UA100

I think I have found the solution with help from all of you. The right
answer is to take the bearing off of the my round over bit. That way I can
get the wood close enough to round over the flip side without the bearing
getting in the way. I can use my fence to control the offset of the wood
from the bit. I have posted a drawing of what I am trying to do on apbw if
you care. In any case, thanks so much for your effective help as usual.

Dick Snyder


"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am trying to make a half round edge on a piece of oak with a 1/4" round
over on top and bottom. For reasons I won't bore you with, I can't use a
1/4" round over bit on one side and then flip the workpiece over and use it
on the other side. I have a router table with a fence. I'm thinking about
buying a bull nose router bit to get the job done smoothly. Can I push the
wood along the fence with this bit or must I use a hand router and guide?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I think I have found the solution with help from all of you. The right
answer is to take the bearing off of the my round over bit. That way I can
get the wood close enough to round over the flip side without the bearing
getting in the way. I can use my fence to control the offset of the wood
from the bit. I have posted a drawing of what I am trying to do on apbw if
you care. In any case, thanks so much for your effective help as usual.


Well, you could have left it on, and merely isolated it by using it to set
your fence. It's then the same as not being there at all. Lay a straight
edge on the fence across the opening, adjust until the bearing just touches,
clamp the fence.

Visions of a bald guy with a bowling shirt and a lump on his head....

I think if you use 3/4 stock you get the 1/2 inch part rounded properly and
a flat on either side of the curve. Someone made a bullnose cutter that had
two radius cutters on an arbor with a ball bearing between them so you could
adjust the blades to round over both the top and bottom edge at the same
time.
max

I'm hoping you've done the math and know with a 1/4" radius
top and bottom you're limited to a 1/2" bullnose bit and
your stock is 1/2" and not 3/4"?

If your stock is 3/4" I'm thinking there might be a bit all
ready to go from someone like CMT (at least I see it in my
head).

UA100

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 07:03:47 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I think I have found the solution with help from all of you. The right
answer is to take the bearing off of the my round over bit. That way I can
get the wood close enough to round over the flip side without the bearing
getting in the way. I can use my fence to control the offset of the wood
from the bit. I have posted a drawing of what I am trying to do on apbw if
you care. In any case, thanks so much for your effective help as usual.

Dick Snyder

I'm glad that it worked out, but don't see why you had to remove the
bearing??
I use bits with bearings on the router table all the time ... to me,
the bearing is sort of a guide when setting the fence..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Example of cut and setup at the
http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html link.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Example of cut and setup at the
http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html link.


My jointing fences are actually made on the jointer - stop in the middle,
and a lot less fiddle.