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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/26/12 11:05 PM, David wrote:
I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. Make a sled for the router that will ride over the stock. The sled will arch in the shape of that profile. The router will ride on top of the sled with the bit underneath. google: router planing sled Build one with the top in an arch to match the profile. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
"David" wrote in message ... I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I would be inclined to make a jig for the thickness planer with a shim under one side so that it raises the board up at the edge. Given the grain, move the shim to the other side of the jig and run the board through again to taper the other edge. The edge could be radiused with a router/sander afterwards. John |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 07:35:52 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote: "David" wrote in message ... I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I would be inclined to make a jig for the thickness planer with a shim under one side so that it raises the board up at the edge. Given the grain, move the shim to the other side of the jig and run the board through again to taper the other edge. The edge could be radiused with a router/sander afterwards. I suppose that might work (and be safe) if he stuck each piece down with doublesided tape. Q: Are these tapered end-to-end AND side-to-side? I'd use a hand plane or cabinet scraper to shape and then sand to final smoothness; maybe 5 minutes per. Or if he's a total Normite, a handheld belt sandah for the whole shebang. Alternatively, I wonder if they might be fully shaped and smoothed on a large stroke sander. Practice on a couple scraps to perfect the performance. -- Good ideas alter the power balance in relationships, that is why good ideas are always initially resisted. Good ideas come with a heavy burden. Which is why so few people have them. So few people can handle it. -- Hugh Macleod |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
The sled approach is one of things I've considered however it appeared to me
the sled would have to swing over the top of the workpiece on a 20" radius. I think you're suggesting an arched sled that could could be moved linearly along the workpiece. Correct? That would be much easier to make and it looks like it would work. Thanks for the suggestion. Any other suggestions out there? Make a sled for the router that will ride over the stock. The sled will arch in the shape of that profile. The router will ride on top of the sled with the bit underneath. google: router planing sled Build one with the top in an arch to match the profile. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/26/2012 11:05 PM, David wrote:
I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. Hand plane would take care of that in short order. Easiest way to get a little head start would be a pass on edge through TS w/ appropriate angle. Or, assuming you have a bandsaw. Second would be the planer sled altho I often for small pieces like that will just tack a shim (double tape works) on the off side and use the jointer for a couple of passes... -- |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
In article , David
wrote: I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I agree with C-Less. Hand plane (sharp!), scraper, sandpaper or block. For sanding you could make a custom block out of autobody filler (aka bondo) from a shorter board with the correct profile. -- I used to like fishing because I thought it had some larger significance. Now I like fishing because itıs the one thing I can think of that probably doesnıt. * John Gierach |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/26/2012 11:05 PM, David wrote:
I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. Just a thought, it sounds like a lot of trouble to make unless you have a molder. My local wood supplier is also a mill that makes moldings from most every common wood. Have you looked at some of the baseboard moldings? Maybe buy a buy a molding with a curved top, rip it in half and glue the two halves together? Something to kick around. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
"David" wrote: I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a graphical solution to layout the profile. Layout a profile gauge block using 1/4? hardboard. Make a "long board", again see Bingham's book, and dress profile to piece. Check profile frequently using profile gauge. A good sharp jack plane followed by longboard final sanding also works. SFWIW, I'm a total Normite, but this is a hand job IMHO. Have fun. Lew |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/27/2012 8:22 AM, dpb wrote:
.... Second would be the planer sled altho I often for small pieces like that will just tack a shim (double tape works) on the off side and use the jointer for a couple of passes... It's easy enough "freehand", too...just put a shim on the infeed table and then hold the jointed face flat on the outfeed table. After the first pass or two there's sufficient surface to follow directly... -- |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
"David" wrote: I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Lew Hodgett" wrote: I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a graphical solution to layout the profile. Layout a profile gauge block using 1/4? hardboard. Make a "long board", again see Bingham's book, and dress profile to piece. Check profile frequently using profile gauge. A good sharp jack plane followed by longboard final sanding also works. SFWIW, I'm a total Normite, but this is a hand job IMHO. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Forgot to mention another solution to get a "fair" curved piece. A 4", right angle, sander/grinder equipped with 60 grit paper. You use sweeping passes (Think of a paint spraying motion) along the board removing 0.015"-0.020"/pass. Standard practice along with a long board to fair out curved surfaces. Practice on a scrap 2by4 to develop your technique. Lew Have fun. Lew |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On Monday, November 26, 2012 9:05:12 PM UTC-8, David wrote:
I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I'm not sure I fully understand what the finished piece looks like but if it is a circular arc with a 20" radius, I would make a trammel for my router (mount router to one end of 6" wide board by 30" long). Then I would cut out this arc from MDF. Then use that as a pattern to build a jig. Affix the real piece to the jig and use a pattern bit (with a bearing follower) and shape the part on the router table. If there is a bunch of material to remove then first trace the shape from the jig to the final part and precut the part on the band saw leaving just an 1/8" or so to trim with the pattern bit. Does this make sense? |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/27/2012 12:05 AM, David wrote:
I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I would just handplane that radius |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/27/2012 5:49 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
On 11/27/2012 12:05 AM, David wrote: I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I would just handplane that radius To handplane just take a marking gauge cut the 1/8 line on the edges. Chamfer to that 1/8 line then smooth from where you want it to start to that chamfer.. much faster than you'd expect.. its a mild radius |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/27/2012 3:25 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2012 9:05:12 PM UTC-8, David wrote: I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I'm not sure I fully understand what the finished piece looks like but if it is a circular arc with a 20" radius, I would make a trammel for my router (mount router to one end of 6" wide board by 30" long). Then I would cut out this arc from MDF. Then use that as a pattern to build a jig. Affix the real piece to the jig and use a pattern bit (with a bearing follower) and shape the part on the router table. If there is a bunch of material to remove then first trace the shape from the jig to the final part and precut the part on the band saw leaving just an 1/8" or so to trim with the pattern bit. Does this make sense? If I read it correctly, it appears that the sides of the box are 4" tall with 20" radius, and will be cut out of a piece 48" long, which must contain that profile before being sliced up for the sides ... pretty tough job for a router pattern bit. But, I'm not sure if that is indeed the gig? ... if it is, and if had to do more than one, I would probably approach it thusly: https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...42830465886418 Just talking out loud .... -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net http://gplus.to/eWoodShop KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
Your assumption is correct. I need to make a 4" x 48" piece with a convex
surface face that approximates a 20" radius. Although I didn't mention it, the approach you recommend is the first thing I tried: first saw an angle on convex face, then blend with a plane followed by sanding. It wasn't bad but I found it difficult maintain profile continuity over the length of the board, although the second or third piece would probably have become better with practice. This afternoon I went to the shop and started building a router fixture inspired by the first commenter, Mike. However, rather than making a sled I'm working on a fixed fixed guide that the workpiece will pass under. If it works, I'll post the results tomorrow. If that doesn't work then I think the saw, plane, sand approach is the next best option. If I read it correctly, it appears that the sides of the box are 4" tall with 20" radius, and will be cut out of a piece 48" long, which must contain that profile before being sliced up for the sides ... pretty tough job for a router pattern bit. But, I'm not sure if that is indeed the gig? ... if it is, and if had to do more than one, I would probably approach it thusly: https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...42830465886418 Just talking out loud .... -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net http://gplus.to/eWoodShop KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
Make a mold. Line it with 80 grit and sand that right off.
JP *********************** Me? Shaper/knife. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
Good suggestion. I'll keep that in mind and use it if it's needed to true
up the final contour. "JayPique" wrote in message ... Make a mold. Line it with 80 grit and sand that right off. JP *********************** Me? Shaper/knife. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
I'd prefer to use a technique that is less reliant on the user's (me) skill
and more on equipment or fixture setup. But, I found an inexpensive copy of Bingham's book and ordered it "just in case". Thanks for the suggestion. "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message eb.com... "David" wrote: I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Lew Hodgett" wrote: I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a graphical solution to layout the profile. Layout a profile gauge block using 1/4? hardboard. Make a "long board", again see Bingham's book, and dress profile to piece. Check profile frequently using profile gauge. A good sharp jack plane followed by longboard final sanding also works. SFWIW, I'm a total Normite, but this is a hand job IMHO. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Forgot to mention another solution to get a "fair" curved piece. A 4", right angle, sander/grinder equipped with 60 grit paper. You use sweeping passes (Think of a paint spraying motion) along the board removing 0.015"-0.020"/pass. Standard practice along with a long board to fair out curved surfaces. Practice on a scrap 2by4 to develop your technique. Lew Have fun. Lew |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On Nov 27, 6:23*pm, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
On 11/27/2012 5:49 PM, tiredofspam wrote: On 11/27/2012 12:05 AM, David wrote: I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. *Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. * What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? *The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. *Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. *If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. *BTW, *I have the usual complement of *stationary, bench, and hand power tools. I would just handplane that radius To handplane just take a marking gauge cut the 1/8 line on the edges. Chamfer to that 1/8 line then smooth from where you want it to start to that chamfer.. much faster than you'd expect.. its a mild radius Not too hard to make a contoured scraper for finishing. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
"David" wrote in message ... I don't have a shaper and probably wouldn't be interested in the expense of a custom cutter anyway. But, my backup plan is to use a saw to remove most of the waste material with one or two cuts, then use a hand plane followed by sanding. ================================================== ======================= Plane to rough shape them grind a scraper to fit. It will give you the same profile all the way down, unlike sanding. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/27/2012 11:13 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Not too hard to make a contoured scraper for finishing. +1 A technique used by old time wooden mold makers in industries like glass blowing. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net http://gplus.to/eWoodShop KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
Another good suggestion. I have an old scraper that could be sacrificed if
needed. "CW" wrote in message m... "David" wrote in message ... I don't have a shaper and probably wouldn't be interested in the expense of a custom cutter anyway. But, my backup plan is to use a saw to remove most of the waste material with one or two cuts, then use a hand plane followed by sanding. ================================================== ======================= Plane to rough shape them grind a scraper to fit. It will give you the same profile all the way down, unlike sanding. |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
On 11/27/2012 6:41 PM, David wrote:
Although I didn't mention it, the approach you recommend is the first thing I tried: first saw an angle on convex face, then blend with a plane followed by sanding. It wasn't bad but I found it difficult maintain profile continuity over the length of the board, although the second or third piece would probably have become better with practice. As AR as I am wont to be, I'm probably the last guy to be saying this, but handmade items to NOT need to look like they came from a cookie cutter. A bit of imperfection adds to the beauty ... justification for the "beauty mark", applied in the days of yore, of women's makeup. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net http://gplus.to/eWoodShop KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile? - Results with Router Fixture
I made a bridge fixture to test the concept and it looks very promising.
Photos he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Qn8kfXniMQlq8w https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...RVElb7nbou2NRY https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Sq8gcl0LwxIkOk The result will still require a bit of sanding but the basic contour appears to be repeatable. This attempt was a proof of concept rather than a finished fixture so please bear in mind when evaluating the crude appearance. The first photo shows the bridge where the router rides on its surface and mills the contour on the workpiece below. The workpiece moves from left to right rather than the fixture moving. The second photo is a side view which shows the approximately 20" radius countour of the bridge. The third photo shows the contour cut into the top of the test workpiece. The next step is to make an improved version of the fixture where the contour is more precisely cut and is better centered over the workpiece slot. Thanks for all the suggestions. Every one was appreciated. I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown he https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile? - Results with Router Fixture
On 11/28/2012 3:21 PM, David wrote:
I made a bridge fixture to test the concept and it looks very promising. Where there's a will, there's a way ... Good work. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net http://gplus.to/eWoodShop KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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How to make this profile?
"David" wrote:
I'd prefer to use a technique that is less reliant on the user's (me) skill and more on equipment or fixture setup. But, I found an inexpensive copy of Bingham's book and ordered it "just in case". Thanks for the suggestion. -------------------------------------------------------- "Lew Hodgett" wrote: I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a graphical solution to layout the profile. ------------------------------------------------------------ When you get book, find Fig: 5-42, "Geometric layout for any camber". Provides a good gamber for your top. ----------------------------------------------------------- As I said, I'm strictly a Normite, but this IMHO, is strictly hand work. ----------------------------------------------------------- http://tinyurl.com/bwf5euz This will show commercial long boards available from Jamestown Distributors. I made mine using plywood and rubber cement to hold sandpaper strips. A 4' x 36" rigid board should do a good job (1/2" plywood) of cleaning up surface. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Have fun. Lew |
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What We Do we make a living by what we get. We make a life by what wegive. &Winston Churchill . | Home Ownership | |||
What We Do we make a living by what we get. We make a life by what wegive. &Winston Churchill . | Home Ownership | |||
AD: Make Crafts at Home and Make extra money on the side! | Metalworking |