I'd prefer to use a technique that is less reliant on the user's (me) skill
and more on equipment or fixture setup. But, I found an inexpensive copy of
Bingham's book and ordered it "just in case". Thanks for the suggestion.


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...

"David" wrote:

I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
The profile for the box sides is shown he
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sh...Tg4r_R18m5vLcs

My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut
it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or
some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile
shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width,
everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long
as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has
made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to
share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual
complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a
graphical
solution to layout the profile.

Layout a profile gauge block using 1/4? hardboard.

Make a "long board", again see Bingham's book, and dress profile to
piece.

Check profile frequently using profile gauge.

A good sharp jack plane followed by longboard final sanding also works.

SFWIW, I'm a total Normite, but this is a hand job IMHO.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Forgot to mention another solution to get a "fair" curved piece.

A 4", right angle, sander/grinder equipped with 60 grit paper.

You use sweeping passes (Think of a paint spraying motion) along the
board removing 0.015"-0.020"/pass.

Standard practice along with a long board to fair out curved surfaces.

Practice on a scrap 2by4 to develop your technique.

Lew




Have fun.

Lew