I googled and all the DIY recipes say to mix sanding dust
with wood glue. I'm thinking of mixing Penofin deck oil with
sanding dust. Has anybody tried this? Or linseed oil or
anything similar?

The cedar railing on my deck has cracks and checks which I
want to fill before giving it the semi-annual oiling. I'm reluctant
to use glue as here in Oregon the railing will be WET, not damp,
for 6 months per year and I just don't trust wood glue. Even
TB3 in those conditions. Epoxy is out as it won't take the oil and
will look ugly.

Any words of wisdom appreciated.
Art

The cedar railing on my deck has cracks and checks which I want to fill before giving it the semi-annual oiling. Art

I haven't used a sawdust mix for exterior use, but have for interior use - salvaged hardwood flooring with numerous defects. I mixed the dust with the finish that was used on the floor.

What sealing/finishing oil will you be using? Mix the fine sawdust with that oil.

If need be, sift your shop sawdust to obtain the finest dust possible. Sawdust from the/a sander's collection is sufficient. Course sawdust is not recommended, but I suppose you know this.

Sonny

Addendum: In some places, a second application of filler may be required, as the initial filling may shrink. Pack the filler in, really hard, to make sure as possible of as complete of filling of the cracks as possible, before skimming off the excess.

Sonny

wrote:
Addendum: In some places, a second application of filler may be
required, as the initial filling may shrink. Pack the filler in,
really hard, to make sure as possible of as complete of filling of
the cracks as possible, before skimming off the excess.

IMO, you are better off leaving the cracks and checks open as water WILL get
in but will have a hard time getting out.

As far as making filler, I don't think oil of any type would be a very good
binding agent, varnish would work better.

If you just gotta fill, I'd suggest a *good* caulk - one similar in color
to the wood - backed up if the checks are deep.

--

dadiOH
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Epoxy is out as it won't take the oil and will look ugly. Any words of wisdom appreciated. Art

1. Not sure of the wisdom or any succesful way to do this. Wood will keep shrinking, cracking, changing and the filler will likely all or mostly fall out over time.

2. System Three T-88 structural epoxy dries to an amber color and is very sandable. Not sure of the actual color of your wood but if it matches even close it may be beautiful.

I had the top of an aging pine hope chest destroyed by the daughter I made it for after 15 years of nice yellowing. After reassembling the pieces I had some 3/8" wide gaps by several inches long just missing material. I pooled T-88 sanded it out, dye stained in the surrounding sanded wood and toned the whole tope with some yellowed lacquer and it looks beauty.

As for me, I'm still seeking the secret to dealing with squeeze-out.

Just stick it back in and tell her to stop squirming so much.