If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next person's
post.

Presently, I am in the drawer building mode. It seems no matter how careful
I am with cutting the drawer parts, when I assemble the drawers after
cutting the dovetails(using jig) the sides don't match up with the front.
If I use the top side of the drawer parts as reference, when I cut the
dadoes for the bottom, the dadoes on the sides sometimes don't match up with
the front dado. The problem is worsened if you need to do rabbeted, half
blind dadoes. If you like your drawer bottoms snug, and the dadoes don't
match you're in doodo. In the past, my quick fix is just to plane(or chisel)
a little or widen the dado which results in lots of slop in the fit. I
tried something else that seems to work ....I use hot glue to make up the
slight difference in the reference surfaces(some rasping may be required)
and then cut the dado. Maybe this pictures will help.

http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/drawergoofix.jpg

Larry

"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's
post.

Presently, I am in the drawer building mode. It seems no matter how
careful
I am with cutting the drawer parts, when I assemble the drawers after
cutting the dovetails(using jig) the sides don't match up with the front.
If I use the top side of the drawer parts as reference, when I cut the
dadoes for the bottom, the dadoes on the sides sometimes don't match up
with
the front dado. The problem is worsened if you need to do rabbeted, half
blind dadoes. If you like your drawer bottoms snug, and the dadoes don't
match you're in doodo. In the past, my quick fix is just to plane(or
chisel)
a little or widen the dado which results in lots of slop in the fit. I
tried something else that seems to work ....I use hot glue to make up the
slight difference in the reference surfaces(some rasping may be required)
and then cut the dado. Maybe this pictures will help.

http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/drawergoofix.jpg

Larry

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to work
fine.

Pat

If I don't pay too close of attention and let my router rotate while cutting
the DT's, the sides will be off set from the front and back. The guide
bushing not being perfectly centered is the culprit. If you let the router
rotate when cutting between the jig fingers, the cut may be too far left or
right. The result is that the sides do not match the front or back like you
describe. If this happens, I trim the top or bottom edges for a good fit.
Then after I am satisfied with the drawer fit in the corners I cut the dados
for the drawer bottom.



"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's
post.

Presently, I am in the drawer building mode. It seems no matter how
careful
I am with cutting the drawer parts, when I assemble the drawers after
cutting the dovetails(using jig) the sides don't match up with the front.
If I use the top side of the drawer parts as reference, when I cut the
dadoes for the bottom, the dadoes on the sides sometimes don't match up
with
the front dado. The problem is worsened if you need to do rabbeted, half
blind dadoes. If you like your drawer bottoms snug, and the dadoes don't
match you're in doodo. In the past, my quick fix is just to plane(or
chisel)
a little or widen the dado which results in lots of slop in the fit. I
tried something else that seems to work ....I use hot glue to make up the
slight difference in the reference surfaces(some rasping may be required)
and then cut the dado. Maybe this pictures will help.

http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/drawergoofix.jpg

Larry

"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message

Presently, I am in the drawer building mode. It seems no matter how
careful
I am with cutting the drawer parts, when I assemble the drawers after
cutting the dovetails(using jig) the sides don't match up with the front.
If I use the top side of the drawer parts as reference, when I cut the
dadoes for the bottom, the dadoes on the sides sometimes don't match up
with
the front dado. The problem is worsened if you need to do rabbeted, half
blind dadoes.

If I understand you correctly ... If you cut the drawer bottom grooves last,
referencing the same edge of each piece, after first verifying the fit of
the dovetails, you won't have this problem.

The trick is initially setting up the DT jig so that the proposed groove
location is hidden by the dovetail joint when the piece is assembled,
particularly when using half-blind dovetails.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04

"Greywolf" wrote in message
. ..
"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to
work
fine.

Pat


Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry

"Greywolf" wrote in message
. ..
"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to
work
fine.

Pat


Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry

"Greywolf" wrote in message
. ..
"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to
work
fine.

Pat


Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry

"Greywolf" wrote in message
. ..
"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to
work
fine.

Pat


Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry

"Greywolf" wrote in message
. ..
"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to
work
fine.

Pat


Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry

Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch
error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry



Mouse stuck on the send button? or frustration with the comments???

"Leon" wrote in message
om...
If I don't pay too close of attention and let my router rotate while
cutting
the DT's, the sides will be off set from the front and back. The guide
bushing not being perfectly centered is the culprit. If you let the
router
rotate when cutting between the jig fingers, the cut may be too far left
or
right. The result is that the sides do not match the front or back like
you
describe. If this happens, I trim the top or bottom edges for a good fit.
Then after I am satisfied with the drawer fit in the corners I cut the
dados
for the drawer bottom.
Thanks Leon. I didn't check the centering of the bushing. I use a Pat
Warner Lexan base just for DT's and never remove the bushing. One more
thing to add to my notes of to-dos. It's curious the jig manual(Hart Design
12") goes into detail on adjusting this and adusting that but makes NO
mention of the problem of an off-center bit although, clearly, it can be a
problem.
I like using a stacked dado and my table saw. I feel more comfortable with
the saw and it's easier(for me) to compensate for the rabbet offset with a
3/8 " thick key I use.

Larry

"Greywolf" wrote in message
. ..
"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to
work
fine.

Pat


Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry

"Leon" wrote in message
om...
If I don't pay too close of attention and let my router rotate while
cutting
the DT's, the sides will be off set from the front and back. The guide
bushing not being perfectly centered is the culprit. If you let the
router
rotate when cutting between the jig fingers, the cut may be too far left
or
right. The result is that the sides do not match the front or back like
you
describe. If this happens, I trim the top or bottom edges for a good fit.
Then after I am satisfied with the drawer fit in the corners I cut the
dados
for the drawer bottom.
Thanks Leon. I didn't check the centering of the bushing. I use a Pat
Warner Lexan base just for DT's and never remove the bushing. One more
thing to add to my notes of to-dos. It's curious the jig manual(Hart Design
12") goes into detail on adjusting this and adusting that but makes NO
mention of the problem of an off-center bit although, clearly, it can be a
problem.
I like using a stacked dado and my table saw. I feel more comfortable with
the saw and it's easier(for me) to compensate for the rabbet offset with a
3/8 " thick key I use.

Larry

"Greywolf" wrote in message
. ..
"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:4pBFc.2974$JR4.2325@attbi_s54...
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next
person's

How about cutting the dadoes after making the dovetails? That seems to
work
fine.

Pat


Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry

"Lawrence L'Hote" wrote in message
news:yCCFc.19904$7t3.16377@attbi_s51...
I like using a stacked dado and my table saw. I feel more comfortable
with
the saw and it's easier(for me) to compensate for the rabbet offset with a
3/8 " thick key I use.


I cut the dado's with the TS also except I use my Regular kerf blade. I
make the first pass through all the pieces plus a scrap, move the fence and
test cut the scrap and check the fit to the plywood bottom. If the fit is
snug, I finish all the other pieces at that fence setting. Because most
1/4" plywood is thinner than most of the 2 outside dado blades I get the
snug fit with one blade.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

If I understand you correctly ... If you cut the drawer bottom grooves
last,
referencing the same edge of each piece, after first verifying the fit of
the dovetails, you won't have this problem.

I think the problem is that his sides and fronts do not align properly at
the corners. One is higher than the other when test fitted. If this is in
fact the problem, the bottoms dados will not align correctly regardless of
when they are cut. The tops and bottoms of all pieces need to be the same
height in the corners for the dados to align correctly also.

Oups... Nevermind. I see you were talking about cleaning out the rabbet on
the TS rather than with the DT bit.

Leon,

Although it doesn't applly to using template guide bushings, there is a
trick that can be used to centre the bit to all external points.

Put a reference bit in the router and lower the point so the router cannot
move off the point. Then slowly move the router edge to a belt sander or
disk and rotate the router until the belt has even contact at all points.

The technique is not dissimilar to cutting a circle on a BS.

Greg

"Leon" wrote in message ...
If I don't pay too close of attention and let my router rotate while
cutting
the DT's, the sides will be off set from the front and back. The guide
bushing not being perfectly centered is the culprit. If you let the
router
rotate when cutting between the jig fingers, the cut may be too far left
or
right. The result is that the sides do not match the front or back like
you
describe. If this happens, I trim the top or bottom edges for a good fit.
Then after I am satisfied with the drawer fit in the corners I cut the
dados
for the drawer bottom.

Yeah that will work.. Thanks Greg. Fortunately I use a Bosch 1617evs on my
Leigh jig. The base is adjustable so that it can be centered to the bit and
remain that way. I use a centering tool to center the bushing to the collet
and tighten down the 4 pan head screws to lock the base in that position.

Then on top of that, I try to keep the router "cloocked" in the same
position through out the process of cutting the DT's just in case.

Leon wrote:

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

If I understand you correctly ... If you cut the drawer bottom grooves
last,
referencing the same edge of each piece, after first verifying the fit of
the dovetails, you won't have this problem.

I think the problem is that his sides and fronts do not align properly at
the corners. One is higher than the other when test fitted. If this is in
fact the problem, the bottoms dados will not align correctly regardless of
when they are cut. The tops and bottoms of all pieces need to be the same
height in the corners for the dados to align correctly also.

The sides to front misalignment could, in addition to a not
perfectly round collar and/or not perfectly centered bit, be
caused by a parts orientation error. If the reference faces,
(the face either visible or down/up against the jig) are flipped
on the drawer sides, relative to the reference face on the front
and back, slight centering errors can pop up and they'll be
consistent - wrong but consistent.

When you do half blinds on an overlay drawer front things get
a little trickier because the center of the drawer front
is at a different distance from the reference EDGE of the
sides and back.

Do the sides and back line up properly and it's just the sides
to front that are off?

As for the dado cuts - there's a slot cutter bit that I've seen
ads for that let you route the dado for the drawer bottom
after the drawer is assembled - but not glued yet (obviously)
With an overlayed drawer front drawer you'd have to figure
a way to raise the sides and back to get the drawer bottom
edges parallel to the router table top but that can be done.
Anyone use this slot cutter bit for this purpose?

charlie b

"Leon" wrote in message ...

"Swingman" wrote in message

If I understand you correctly ... If you cut the drawer bottom grooves
last,
referencing the same edge of each piece, after first verifying the fit
of
the dovetails, you won't have this problem.

I think the problem is that his sides and fronts do not align properly at
the corners. One is higher than the other when test fitted. If this is
in
fact the problem, the bottoms dados will not align correctly regardless of
when they are cut. The tops and bottoms of all pieces need to be the same
height in the corners for the dados to align correctly also.

That's very true ... however, my "fitting and tweaking" of the drawer parts
comes into play _before_ cutting the drawer bottom grooves, and before
glue-up. I generally use a low angle block plane for this step, both top and
bottom with a dry fit, and very occasionally have to resort to the
stationary belt sander. Once properly done, a reference edge should be
available for aligning the grooves, whether cut on the router or table saw.

I've got to admit that I've rarely had the subject problem arise (made close
to hundred drawers last year alone) ... that may come from paying particular
attention to the orientation of the router when cutting the dovetails, and
likely the Leigh Jig may also mitigate the problem to some extent.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04

"charlie b" wrote in message

When you do half blinds on an overlay drawer front things get
a little trickier because the center of the drawer front
is at a different distance from the reference EDGE of the
sides and back.

"You're a better man than me, Charlie Brown." ... I just use a false drawer
front.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04

"Jack" wrote in message .. .

Well..that's what I do. Still about a sixteenth(sometimes more) inch
error
seems to creep up on me.

Larry



Mouse stuck on the send button? or frustration with the comments???

By my count that adds up to 1/4" of creep...

--

FF