Note: I wrote more than I intended to. If you have lots of important
things to do, you should probably skip this post.

I like to try to amuse those who have tried to teach me so much. I am
in the process of building the DP Baseboard that Mike M. termed the
"Baseboard of my dreams". That's an exaggeration of course, but it has a
ring to it that I like. The kind poster who posts as morgans should get
most of the credit for putting the idea for this DP baseboard in my head
in the first place.

If you cut 2by8s into five 30" pieces, and line them side-to-side with 2
or 3 pipe clamps you may get 30" by 36 1/8" or 30" by 36 3/16" surface,
depending on which sides you measure. I use 30" above only in a nominal
way. I measured and cut a 30" piece from a 2by8, then cut four more
that were about the same size (it was a matter of pride at the time, a
few months ago when I cut the stuff with my CS, that I didn't use a
ruler). I bought some 2by4's (2)to at the same time I bought the 2by8s.
Originally, I was going to put these all the way around, under the
edge of the "surface", but in the end I decided to just put them under
the sides. It's a good thing too, as one of these 2by4's virtually
turned itself into an "S". It happened to contain the "pith" of the
tree. I'll try to avoid such lumber in the future.

Lacking a real workbench, today I clamped my surface together on saw
horses as described at the top of the paragraph above. Then I clamped a
36+" piece of 2by4 underneath one side using four 6" F-clamps--2 on each
end. Enter router (DeWalt 2 1/4hp). I made a few practice passes with
it using a round-over bit yesterday to get a feel for it--it cut easier
than I expected. Relatively quiet too compared to my Delta 12.5" bench
planer which I used to smooth one side of my 2by4 pieces, where the
bearing would rest. Now I was using a 2" long straight bit with a
bearing. The amount of wood I was trying to chomp off the end grain of
the 2by8 pieces varied from board to board, but wasn't greater than
about 1/4" by 1 7/16" height (I realize now this is a little too much).
It wasn't too long that my bit froze (stopped turning), and it wasn't
too many seconds later that I thought I saw the bit fly! If it freezes
again I'll stop and do an inspection. I expected to find the bit against
the wall, but it was only a foot or two away from where I was standing.
It got thrown, or dropped, into the piece of carpet I was standing on.
Enter an opportunity for some soul-searching. I regrouped, and was even
more attentive/vigilant, and had a new decidedly-favorite side of the
router to stand on (behind it). I moved the F clamps around and
finished "straightening" the side. Then I used the (3/8") roundover bit.
There were a several places where it didn't look so good--remnants
from my use of the straight bit: where the router bumped into a clamp,
in between boards, and in particular where I was trying to take off too
much wood (I think) with --I was left with some deep gouges. I knew the
roundover bit wouldn't cover-up each problem I created with the
straight-bit, but it helped.

My wife thought it looked good. I thought it looked acceptable. I ate
dinner, and went back and completed the other side (straightened and
rounded over). Also rounded over the front. Then it occurred to me
(duh..), I went back to the first side, re-clamped the 2by4 1/8" further
in, straightened the side to erase my previous errors (I know Larry
would have given me hell about them) and redid the first side, leaving
far less evidence of my router-newbyness.

Some other things I learned:

- I like the "soft-start" feature of the router
- Try to make use of the variable speed feature
- Start close to the the edge, so the amount of "climbing" you might do
is minimal
- Be damn careful about "climbing cuts", like the books say!
- I can see why people like having more than 1 router:

Every time I needed to switch to a round-over bit, I need to un-attach
the power to the router, remove eye and ear protection (dust mask was
constant), extract the router motor from the base, find and put on a
leather glove , loosen the collet, remove the straight bit, insert the
roundover bit in the collet, pull it out 1/16", tighten the collet,
remove glove, put motor back in base, adjust height of bit, look for eye
and ear protection, verify power switch is off, attach power to the
router, and proceed. I left out a few steps, but you get the idea.
Similar for switching back to the straight bit! It seemed a bit
tiresome to me that there was so much process to this..

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to post
so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to change router
bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regards,

Bill

Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to post so
many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to change router
bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers, which will keep you from
having to change bits so often. If you live near a large city that has a
Porter Cable repair facility, they often sell the reconditioned motors
cheap ... All you need is the handle/sleeve and a base, both sold
separately.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to
post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to
change router bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

....or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-

On May 23, 11:22*am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to
post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to
change router bits! *I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

...or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-


LOL
I now have 12 (twelve) not counting the cnc

On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:08:27 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On May 23, 11:22*am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to
post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to
change router bits! *I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

...or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-


LOL
I now have 12 (twelve) not counting the cnc

Is that a lot of sex?

You might check out your local pawn shop for an extra router or two.
Usually, Christmas time is the best time to snag the best deals on
anything from pawn shops.

Sonny

Swingman wrote:
wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to post so
many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to change router
bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers, which will keep you from
having to change bits so often. If you live near a large city that has a
Porter Cable repair facility, they often sell the reconditioned motors
cheap ... All you need is the handle/sleeve and a base, both sold
separately.

I do live within driving distance to a "Delta & Porter Cable" repair
facility (passed by, but have never been inside). That falls under the
Stanley-Black & Decker empire. Would you expect them to service DeWalt
too (also part of the empire)?

My intuition suggests to use a slower routing speed to cut off a lot of
wood and to using faster speeds, where permissible, to produce a better
finish. Am I on the right track in thinking about this? When I started
the project, since I was using bits of at most 1/2" diameter on soft
wood, I just assumed fast==good. Someone wrote one that, other things
constant, a fast TS will cut cleaner than a slower one. Having made a
few passes with the router, I'm ready to try to understand this better.
I believe my DeWalt 618 router has 1-6 on its speed dial (which, if the
specifications are to be believed, adjusts speed between 8K and 24K
rpm). Comments from anyone welcomed. Thanks.

Bill

On Mon, 23 May 2011 17:35:54 -0700 (PDT), Sonny wrote:

You might check out your local pawn shop for an extra router or two.
Usually, Christmas time is the best time to snag the best deals on
anything from pawn shops.

I've never found anything in a pawn shop worth buying.

On Mon, 23 May 2011 20:55:03 -0400, Bill wrote:

Swingman wrote:
wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to post so
many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to change router
bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers, which will keep you from
having to change bits so often. If you live near a large city that has a
Porter Cable repair facility, they often sell the reconditioned motors
cheap ... All you need is the handle/sleeve and a base, both sold
separately.

I do live within driving distance to a "Delta & Porter Cable" repair
facility (passed by, but have never been inside). That falls under the
Stanley-Black & Decker empire. Would you expect them to service DeWalt
too (also part of the empire)?

My intuition suggests to use a slower routing speed to cut off a lot of
wood and to using faster speeds, where permissible, to produce a better
finish. Am I on the right track in thinking about this? When I started
the project, since I was using bits of at most 1/2" diameter on soft
wood, I just assumed fast==good. Someone wrote one that, other things
constant, a fast TS will cut cleaner than a slower one. Having made a
few passes with the router, I'm ready to try to understand this better.
I believe my DeWalt 618 router has 1-6 on its speed dial (which, if the
specifications are to be believed, adjusts speed between 8K and 24K
rpm). Comments from anyone welcomed. Thanks.

Lower speed is for bigger bits. AFAIK, the edge speed of the bit on the wood
should be a constant (much like boring).

On May 23, 7:29*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:08:27 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:





On May 23, 11:22*am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to
post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to
change router bits! *I'll post a pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

...or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-


LOL
I now have 12 (twelve) not counting the cnc

Is that a lot of sex?

Sure as hell is for me..G

On May 23, 9:10*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 17:35:54 -0700 (PDT), Sonny wrote:
You might check out your local pawn shop for an extra router or two.
Usually, Christmas time is the best time to snag the best deals on
anything from pawn shops.

I've never found anything in a pawn shop worth buying. *

An early magnesium Paslode 16ga nailer for $ 75..(Then selling for
around $ 600) and a 7 1/4 Milwaukee sidewinder for $ 40.00 with not
as much as a scratch on the shoe... do those count? 25 bucks for a B&D
cast body old style router? Again hardly used.

This particular pawnshop happens to be across the street from the post
office/federal office building. I stop in at least every couple of
weeks.

Oh.. a B&K 100 MHz dual trace oscilloscope for $ 40.00

OR... ( a friend of mine scored these at a London Ontario pawnshop) a
pair of matched AKG C414 microphones for $ 200.00

It does happen.

If 35 mm cameras are your bag, you can get some really good prices now
that digital is the norm.

But I know what you're saying...99% of the time there's nothing but
crap.

Bill wrote in
:

Swingman wrote:
wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience.
Sorry to post so many words; I hope my post helps
somebody learn how to change router bits! I'll post a
pic when I'm finished. Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers, which
will keep you from having to change bits so often. If you
live near a large city that has a Porter Cable repair
facility, they often sell the reconditioned motors cheap
... All you need is the handle/sleeve and a base, both
sold separately.

I do live within driving distance to a "Delta & Porter
Cable" repair facility (passed by, but have never been
inside). That falls under the Stanley-Black & Decker
empire. Would you expect them to service DeWalt too (also
part of the empire)?

My intuition suggests to use a slower routing speed to cut
off a lot of wood and to using faster speeds, where
permissible, to produce a better finish. Am I on the right
track in thinking about this? When I started the project,
since I was using bits of at most 1/2" diameter on soft
wood, I just assumed fast==good. Someone wrote one that,
other things constant, a fast TS will cut cleaner than a
slower one. Having made a few passes with the router, I'm
ready to try to understand this better. I believe my DeWalt
618 router has 1-6 on its speed dial (which, if the
specifications are to be believed, adjusts speed between 8K
and 24K rpm). Comments from anyone welcomed. Thanks.

Bill


Lower speeds are for large diameter bits such as what you
would find for cabinet door frames. For the smoothest cut the
effective surface speed should remain at the highest safe
speed the bit allows. A cope and stick bit should be at the
lowest speed while a 1/4" straight bit should be at the
highest speed.

The rule of thumb I use when using a straight bit to cut a
groove is never cut more than 1/2 the diameter of the bit. For
example using a 3/8" straight bit, never cut deeper than
3/16" each pass.

Smoothing up an edge like you were doing, I would cut no more
than 1/8" at a time and leave a 1/32" for the last pass where
I could move the router along fast enough to prevent burning.

YMMV

Larry

Robatoy wrote:
On May 23, 7:29 pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:08:27 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:





On May 23, 11:22 am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to
post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to
change router bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished.
Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

...or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-


LOL
I now have 12 (twelve) not counting the cnc

Is that a lot of sex?

Sure as hell is for me..G

Hell - I can do 12 no sweat. I'd dare say I do that every 3 years - no
exageration! Or... are we talking minutes? Oh... that would be a freakin'
marathon...

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 23 May 2011 23:25:50 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Robatoy wrote:
On May 23, 7:29 pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:08:27 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:





On May 23, 11:22 am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry to
post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how to
change router bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished.
Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

...or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-


LOL
I now have 12 (twelve) not counting the cnc

Is that a lot of sex?

Sure as hell is for me..G

Hell - I can do 12 no sweat. I'd dare say I do that every 3 years - no
exageration! Or... are we talking minutes? Oh... that would be a freakin'
marathon...

Mikey 'Queeksdraw McGraw' Marlow, eh? A premature Donna?

--
Doubt 'til thou canst doubt no more...doubt is thought and thought
is life. Systems which end doubt are devices for drugging thought.
-- Albert Guerard

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 23:25:50 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Robatoy wrote:
On May 23, 7:29 pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:08:27 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:





On May 23, 11:22 am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry
to post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how
to change router bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished.
Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

...or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-


LOL
I now have 12 (twelve) not counting the cnc

Is that a lot of sex?

Sure as hell is for me..G

Hell - I can do 12 no sweat. I'd dare say I do that every 3 years -
no exageration! Or... are we talking minutes? Oh... that would be
a freakin' marathon...

Mikey 'Queeksdraw McGraw' Marlow, eh? A premature Donna?

Hey - at my age that ain't considered premature. It's considered a freakin'
accomplishment.

--

-Mike-

Larry wrote:

The rule of thumb I use when using a straight bit to cut a
groove is never cut more than 1/2 the diameter of the bit. For
example using a 3/8" straight bit, never cut deeper than
3/16" each pass.

Smoothing up an edge like you were doing, I would cut no more
than 1/8" at a time and leave a 1/32" for the last pass where
I could move the router along fast enough to prevent burning.

YMMV

Larry


Thank you for the rules of thumb. The "1/2 of the diameter" rule makes
a lot of sense--the sooner that the bearing gets seated, the better (I
think). Otherwise, the bearing makes contact and the router tips a
little and you end up with the ruts I ended up with the first time. At
least, I'm guessing that's what happened.

I was closer to doing what you suggested the 2nd time. After I cut the
roundover--I gave it another pass at the highest speed, and the result
seemed smoother! Strange (to me), but true. I doubt anyone will be
running their fingers along my DP baseboard so I should be okay. I gave
it a quarter-round to help protect it's dignity. I left the back edge
alone/square.

People here seem really passionate about their routers though. That's
almost too easy of a target. How about playing off of something like
"sandpaper" instead. Somehow I'm reminded of a motel I stayed at in
Iowa a few years ago that virtually had sheets wrapped around 3/4" ply.
You may not believe there is such a place. Innkeeper must have had a
sense of humor.

Bill

On Tue, 24 May 2011 00:54:16 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 23:25:50 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Robatoy wrote:
On May 23, 7:29 pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:08:27 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:





On May 23, 11:22 am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Note: I wro

So, as you can see, it was a decent learning experience. Sorry
to post so many words; I hope my post helps somebody learn how
to change router bits! I'll post a pic when I'm finished.
Regardss

You can't be too rich, or have too many routers,

...or have too much sex.

Geeze - get it right if you're going to say it.

--

-Mike-


LOL
I now have 12 (twelve) not counting the cnc

Is that a lot of sex?

Sure as hell is for me..G

Hell - I can do 12 no sweat. I'd dare say I do that every 3 years -
no exageration! Or... are we talking minutes? Oh... that would be
a freakin' marathon...

Mikey 'Queeksdraw McGraw' Marlow, eh? A premature Donna?

Hey - at my age that ain't considered premature. It's considered a freakin'
accomplishment.

Did she say "I'm glad that thing's petrified." ?

--
Doubt 'til thou canst doubt no more...doubt is thought and thought
is life. Systems which end doubt are devices for drugging thought.
-- Albert Guerard