A week or so ago I posted here asking for opinions about the WWII
table saw blade. Based on the comments I got here I decided to buy
one. Wow! I think I could split the atom with that thing!

I got psyched up and finally used the Rust Remover and Boshield I've
had on the shelf for a while, (also something that I learned about
here). I've had this machine for forty years and it was old when I
got it. Now, the table is back to being metallic silver.
Unbelievable.

You guys really gave me a good steer.

I came across this on the net. Next time I'm away for a couple of
weeks I may try this with the upright support of the drill press.

Video: Removing rust with potatoes
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Tips...st_Removal.htm

On 9/23/10 4:12 PM, KIMOSABE wrote:
I got psyched up and finally used the Rust Remover and Boshield I've
had on the shelf for a while, (also something that I learned about
here). I've had this machine for forty years and it was old when I
got it. Now, the table is back to being metallic silver.
Unbelievable.

You guys really gave me a good steer.


Was it the Boeshield Rustfree and T-9 system?
Those two are the absolute best at their jobs.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Was it the Boeshield Rustfree and T-9 system?
Those two are the absolute best at their jobs.

* -MIKE-

Yep, that's the stuff.

"KIMOSABE" wrote in message
...
A week or so ago I posted here asking for opinions about the WWII
table saw blade. Based on the comments I got here I decided to buy
one. Wow! I think I could split the atom with that thing!

I got psyched up and finally used the Rust Remover and Boshield I've
had on the shelf for a while, (also something that I learned about
here). I've had this machine for forty years and it was old when I
got it. Now, the table is back to being metallic silver.
Unbelievable.

You guys really gave me a good steer.

I came across this on the net. Next time I'm away for a couple of
weeks I may try this with the upright support of the drill press.

Video: Removing rust with potatoes
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Tips...st_Removal.htm


FYI in a HUMID environment I prefer TopCote for protecting the TS top. I
can get rust over night, actually in a matter of hours if my top is not
protected. I tried Boeshield from the recommendation of others on my new
saw 10 years ago however it was not effective unless I sprayed a coat that
was so thick that it had to be removed before use. I have been using a form
of TopCote for 20+ years going back to when the Empire Top Savers guys
originally marketed it as a top lubricant. Just so happened it prevented
rust too. Any way I went back to the TopCote and I don't give rust a second
thought. If Boeshield works for you, great. If you want something that
works better with less input from you, try TopCote, you spray it on and do
not have to wipe off any residue.

KIMOSABE wrote:
....
You guys really gave me a good steer.
....

Oh, bull...



--

On 9/24/2010 10:12 AM, Leon wrote:

FYI in a HUMID environment I prefer TopCote for protecting the TS top. I
can get rust over night, actually in a matter of hours if my top is not
protected. I tried Boeshield from the recommendation of others on my new
saw 10 years ago however it was not effective unless I sprayed a coat that
was so thick that it had to be removed before use. I have been using a form
of TopCote for 20+ years going back to when the Empire Top Savers guys
originally marketed it as a top lubricant. Just so happened it prevented
rust too. Any way I went back to the TopCote and I don't give rust a second
thought. If Boeshield works for you, great. If you want something that
works better with less input from you, try TopCote, you spray it on and do
not have to wipe off any residue.

+1


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sep 24, 9:12*am, "Leon" wrote:

FYI in a HUMID environment I prefer TopCote for protecting the TS top. *I
can get rust over night, actually in a matter of hours if my top is not
protected. *I tried Boeshield from the recommendation of others on my new
saw 10 years ago however it was not effective unless I sprayed a coat that
was so thick that it had to be removed before use. *I have been using a form
of TopCote for 20+ years going back to when the Empire Top Savers guys
originally marketed it as a top lubricant. *Just so happened it prevented
rust too. *Any way I went back to the TopCote and I don't give rust a second
thought. *If Boeshield works for you, great. *If you want something that
works better with less input from you, try TopCote, you spray it on and do
not have to wipe off any residue.

For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite
brand] paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess
with whatever finish you'd later apply).

I have pretty good luck on the CI surfaces with WD-40, applied with a
green ScotchBrite pad, and -- rather than elbow grease -- my random
orbit sander.

I top it off with a couple layers of paste wax.

That said, I think the critical range, for cast iron, is staying below
45-50% humidity. If you can do that, you're usually okay with minor
maintenance.

I'm in Northern Colorado, so I actually *humidify* my whole house and
shop, but stay in the 42% range, and see no signs of rust.

Above 50% RH, you may want to consider de-humidifying, whether via a/c
or a dedicated (and, preferably, plumbed) de-humidifier.

"Neil Brooks" wrote in message
...
On Sep 24, 9:12 am, "Leon" wrote:

FYI in a HUMID environment I prefer TopCote for protecting the TS top. I
can get rust over night, actually in a matter of hours if my top is not
protected. I tried Boeshield from the recommendation of others on my new
saw 10 years ago however it was not effective unless I sprayed a coat that
was so thick that it had to be removed before use. I have been using a
form
of TopCote for 20+ years going back to when the Empire Top Savers guys
originally marketed it as a top lubricant. Just so happened it prevented
rust too. Any way I went back to the TopCote and I don't give rust a
second
thought. If Boeshield works for you, great. If you want something that
works better with less input from you, try TopCote, you spray it on and do
not have to wipe off any residue.

For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite
brand] paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess
with whatever finish you'd later apply).

I have pretty good luck on the CI surfaces with WD-40, applied with a
green ScotchBrite pad, and -- rather than elbow grease -- my random
orbit sander.

I top it off with a couple layers of paste wax.

That said, I think the critical range, for cast iron, is staying below
45-50% humidity. If you can do that, you're usually okay with minor
maintenance.

I'm in Northern Colorado, so I actually *humidify* my whole house and
shop, but stay in the 42% range, and see no signs of rust.

Above 50% RH, you may want to consider de-humidifying, whether via a/c
or a dedicated (and, preferably, plumbed) de-humidifier.

*
*which scotch-brite pad do you use? I have been using the brown one with my
random orbital sander and follow with Johnson's paste wax. I no longer use
WD-40 as I used to, but maybe I should...

On Sep 24, 12:54*pm, "woodstuff" wrote:

*which scotch-brite pad do you use? *I have been using the brown one with my
random orbital sander and follow with Johnson's paste wax. *I no longer use
WD-40 as I used to, but maybe I should...

Typically, I use these:

http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/port...s&lang=e n_US

But ... I presume one could get by with their "non-scratch" version:

http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/port...s&lang=e n_US

WD is frowned upon in many circles -- largely because it does a
MILLION things fairly well, but NOTHING exceptionally well.

According to its MSDS, though, it's basically a blend of mineral
spirits and a petroleum distillate, as a lubricant.

For my money (I do a lot of wrenching on bicycles), it serves as an
excellent cleaner, and a mediocre lubricant (read: rather light-
weight, and not terribly long-lasting).

On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:54:32 -0500, woodstuff wrote:

For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite brand]
paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess with
whatever finish you'd later apply).

Since I sand *after* cutting the pieces, silicone isn't a problem. Isn't
that the usual sequence?

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sep 24, 2:10*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:54:32 -0500, woodstuff wrote:
For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite brand]
paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess with
whatever finish you'd later apply).

Since I sand *after* cutting the pieces, silicone isn't a problem. *Isn't
that the usual sequence?


Sure.

I suspect there's a question about how far a silicon might penetrate
into the wood, and whether your sanding will remove ALL of it, though.

Sincere there are a boatload of good waxes, for woodworking use, that
do not have silicon in them, it might be better to look at it (using a
wax that contains silicon) as ... some risk, very little reward.

This is one of those "conventional wisdom" issues. It seems
consistent across LOTS of websites. It also sounds intuitively
reasonable to me.

But .... I don't know it to be The Gospel ;-)

On Sep 24, 3:00*pm, Neil Brooks wrote:
On Sep 24, 2:10*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:

On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:54:32 -0500, woodstuff wrote:
For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite brand]
paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess with
whatever finish you'd later apply).

Since I sand *after* cutting the pieces, silicone isn't a problem. *Isn't
that the usual sequence?

Sure.

I suspect there's a question about how far a silicon might penetrate
into the wood, and whether your sanding will remove ALL of it, though.

*Since* [fixed typo] there are a boatload of good waxes, for woodworking use, that
do not have silicon in them, it might be better to look at it (using a
wax that contains silicon) as ... some risk, very little reward.

This is one of those "conventional wisdom" issues. *It seems
consistent across LOTS of websites. *It also sounds intuitively
reasonable to me.

But .... I don't know it to be The Gospel ;-)

On 9/24/2010 4:10 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:54:32 -0500, woodstuff wrote:

For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite brand]
paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess with
whatever finish you'd later apply).

Since I sand *after* cutting the pieces, silicone isn't a problem. Isn't
that the usual sequence?

Silicone is a pain in the butt. Doesn't take much of it to mess up your
finish and it transfers _very_ easily. Once a little gets on the
sandpaper it spreads as you sand.

In article ,
dpb wrote:
KIMOSABE wrote:
...
You guys really gave me a good steer.
...

Oh, bull...


Correction. That steer was no bull.

Robert Bonomi wrote:
In article ,
dpb wrote:
KIMOSABE wrote:
...
You guys really gave me a good steer.
...

Oh, bull...


Correction. That steer was no bull.

Correction. All steers _were_ bulls...

--

On 9/28/10 4:24 PM, dpb wrote:
Robert Bonomi wrote:
In article ,
dpb wrote:
KIMOSABE wrote:
...
You guys really gave me a good steer.
...

Oh, bull...


Correction. That steer was no bull.

Correction. All steers _were_ bulls...

--

Is the diff... snip snip?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article ,
-MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/10 4:24 PM, dpb wrote:
Robert Bonomi wrote:
In article ,
dpb wrote:
KIMOSABE wrote:
...
You guys really gave me a good steer.
...

Oh, bull...


Correction. That steer was no bull.

Correction. All steers _were_ bulls...

--

Is the diff... snip snip?

.... a harvest of mountain oysters.

Now, a bum steer is someting -entirely- different.

A week or so ago I posted here asking for opinions about the WWII
table saw blade. Based on the comments I got here I decided to buy
one. Wow! I think I could split the atom with that thing!

I got psyched up and finally used the Rust Remover and Boshield I've
had on the shelf for a while, (also something that I learned about
here). I've had this machine for forty years and it was old when I
got it. Now, the table is back to being metallic silver.
Unbelievable.

You guys really gave me a good steer.

I came across this on the net. Next time I'm away for a couple of
weeks I may try this with the upright support of the drill press.

Video: Removing rust with potatoes
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Tips...st_Removal.htm

KIMOSABE


Fun home experiment using a potato but two weeks and you still need
elbow grease?

Recently I acquired a couple of hand planes, chisels and other older
Stanley tools that were fairly rusted from being out in Grandpa's old
work shed. I didn't want to damage the enamel, so I skipped
electrolysis and harsh chemicals and tried Evapo-Rust. This stuff
works like a charm! In 30 minutes all surface rust was gone and in
several hours even the toughest and deepest rust was gone.

Best part is this stuff is non-toxic and biodegradable and even leaves
a protective coating that will last for several weeks. I managed to
clean all my rusty tools with one pint. I was skeptical, but not
anymore. So if you've got some ugly rust to deal with, check it out...

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg

`Casper

On 9/29/2010 8:03 AM, Casper wrote:

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg

Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/2010 8:03 AM, Casper wrote:

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg

Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

http://www.evapo-rust.com/wheretobuyit/


I see it is in Houston.

Casper wrote:
http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg

Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?
Swingman

Autozone carries it. I went out to Evapo-Rust's web site and used
their search feature to locate a nearby store that carried it and out
my way it's all Autozone. Car-heads love it for removing rust.

I found out about it when I went to my local Woodcraft and had a guy
show me how to tune my newly aquired planes. He saw the rust and
suggested Evapo-Rust. He said he never used it but heard lots of good
things about it from his customers. It certainly worked like a charm!

`Casper

On 9/30/2010 8:03 AM, Casper wrote:
Casper wrote:
http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg

Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?
Swingman

Autozone carries it. I went out to Evapo-Rust's web site and used
their search feature to locate a nearby store that carried it and out
my way it's all Autozone. Car-heads love it for removing rust.

I found out about it when I went to my local Woodcraft and had a guy
show me how to tune my newly aquired planes. He saw the rust and
suggested Evapo-Rust. He said he never used it but heard lots of good
things about it from his customers. It certainly worked like a charm!

Thanks ... there is an AutoZone not far down the road. I've got a couple
of old combination squares I've had since I was a teenager that I would
like to restore for sentimental reasons.

I was going to try oxalic acid also, but I'll see how this stuff works too.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

ts
"Swingman" wrote in message
Thanks ... there is an AutoZone not far down the road. I've got a couple
of old combination squares I've had since I was a teenager that I would
like to restore for sentimental reasons.

I was going to try oxalic acid also, but I'll see how this stuff works
too.

Lee Valley Tools also carries Evapo-Rust. The large size of the Evapo-Rust
can only be bought in store, but the smaller size can be shipped.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...415,43439&ap=1

They also have another rust remover that seems expensive, but is hightly
touted.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...415,43439&ap=1

On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 08:08:33 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 9/30/2010 8:03 AM, Casper wrote:
Casper wrote:
http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg

Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?
Swingman

Autozone carries it. I went out to Evapo-Rust's web site and used
their search feature to locate a nearby store that carried it and out
my way it's all Autozone. Car-heads love it for removing rust.

I found out about it when I went to my local Woodcraft and had a guy
show me how to tune my newly aquired planes. He saw the rust and
suggested Evapo-Rust. He said he never used it but heard lots of good
things about it from his customers. It certainly worked like a charm!

Thanks ... there is an AutoZone not far down the road. I've got a couple
of old combination squares I've had since I was a teenager that I would
like to restore for sentimental reasons.

I was going to try oxalic acid also, but I'll see how this stuff works too.

Oxalic acid works well to remove rust from all seriously rusted wood,
Swingy. But it works much better to remove the dull, oxidized, dead
coating from UV-damaged wood. OA = deck cleaner.

--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg


Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?
Swingman


Autozone carries it. I went out to Evapo-Rust's web site and used
their search feature to locate a nearby store that carried it and out
my way it's all Autozone. Car-heads love it for removing rust.

I found out about it when I went to my local Woodcraft and had a guy
show me how to tune my newly aquired planes. He saw the rust and
suggested Evapo-Rust. He said he never used it but heard lots of good
things about it from his customers. It certainly worked like a charm!


Thanks ... there is an AutoZone not far down the road. I've got a couple
of old combination squares I've had since I was a teenager that I would
like to restore for sentimental reasons.
I was going to try oxalic acid also, but I'll see how this stuff works too.
Swingman

Autozone carries the pint size, at least the stores around me do. The
only way for me to get the 5 gallon is online. I wanted to order the
pint online but could not find it anywhere. I'll have to keep Lee
Valley in mind for when I re-order, although Autozone is only 2
minutes up the street from me.

Anyway, I was extremely please with the results. Showed the tools to a
few people and they were also impressed. I love the non-toxic,
biodegradable and very low smell stuff, so this one will be part of my
repair kit for a long time. Oh! And you can re-use it until it turns
completely black. Even safe to pour out on the lawn.

`Casper

On Fri, 01 Oct 2010 08:19:48 -0400, Casper
wrote:

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.h...FdJL5QodmQ63bg


Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?
Swingman


Autozone carries it. I went out to Evapo-Rust's web site and used
their search feature to locate a nearby store that carried it and out
my way it's all Autozone. Car-heads love it for removing rust.

I found out about it when I went to my local Woodcraft and had a guy
show me how to tune my newly aquired planes. He saw the rust and
suggested Evapo-Rust. He said he never used it but heard lots of good
things about it from his customers. It certainly worked like a charm!


Thanks ... there is an AutoZone not far down the road. I've got a couple
of old combination squares I've had since I was a teenager that I would
like to restore for sentimental reasons.
I was going to try oxalic acid also, but I'll see how this stuff works too.
Swingman

Autozone carries the pint size, at least the stores around me do. The
only way for me to get the 5 gallon is online. I wanted to order the
pint online but could not find it anywhere. I'll have to keep Lee
Valley in mind for when I re-order, although Autozone is only 2
minutes up the street from me.

Harbor Freight carries it at $19.99 a gallon if one's close.
Autozone's $9/qt makes it $36/gal. In 5gal qty, OUCH!


Anyway, I was extremely please with the results. Showed the tools to a
few people and they were also impressed. I love the non-toxic,
biodegradable and very low smell stuff, so this one will be part of my
repair kit for a long time. Oh! And you can re-use it until it turns
completely black. Even safe to pour out on the lawn.

If you have rust on your lawn, you have deeper problems than ER can
solve, C. :^)

--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman

If you have rust on your lawn, you have deeper problems than ER can
solve, C. :^)
Larry Jaques

LOL.

It's actually for the subterranean peoples. They complain all the time
about rust and seepage. Can't blame them with the masses of .. well
you know .. that live above them.

Oonce it turns black, you don't have to look for a place to get rid of
it. Safe to dump right in the ground. My suspicion is that it's citrus
based but I don't know for certain.

`Casper