I have several 110V Ceiling Mounted Retractable Electrical Cords. Do
they make a 230V model?

Have you considered changing the plugs/receptacles?
240V stuff costs more, so changing the ends may be cheaper.
Wilson
"Pete" wrote in message
om...
I have several 110V Ceiling Mounted Retractable Electrical Cords. Do
they make a 230V model?

"Wilson" wrote in message
link.net...
Have you considered changing the plugs/receptacles?
240V stuff costs more, so changing the ends may be cheaper.

Is the wiring normally used for 120v sufficient for 240v use?

On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 16:29:13 GMT, "Upscale"
wrote:

"Wilson" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Have you considered changing the plugs/receptacles?
240V stuff costs more, so changing the ends may be cheaper.

Is the wiring normally used for 120v sufficient for 240v use?

It's all about insulation and current capacity. I'm not sure about all
cases, but I think the normal voltage rating for any wire used in
house wiring (I can't say if that's true for extension cords,
appliance cords, tool cords) is around 600V, so that shouldn't be an
issue. The current draw for a tool on 240V is half that of a tool on
120V (assuming same power of motor), so that's not an issue.


- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

It's all about insulation and current capacity. I'm not sure about all
cases, but I think the normal voltage rating for any wire used in
house wiring (I can't say if that's true for extension cords,
appliance cords, tool cords) is around 600V,

"Junior" hard service cord (the "J" in SJT) means 300v. That is still OK for
240. The better cords like SO are 600v.

Have you considered changing the plugs/receptacles?
240V stuff costs more, so changing the ends may be cheaper.

Is the wiring normally used for 120v sufficient for 240v use?

The short answer is Yes. 240v in a cable is supplied by 2 wires (plus a
ground). Each "hot" wire carries 120v. By switching ends, you are making the
neutral (white) wire function as the other hot (red) wire. 240v motors do
not require a neutral.

Just as with a 120v extension cord, the current draw of the tool, and length
of the cord determines how heavy a cord (wire guage) is required.

-Steve

On 28 Apr 2004 17:30:51 GMT, (Greg) wrote:

It's all about insulation and current capacity. I'm not sure about all
cases, but I think the normal voltage rating for any wire used in
house wiring (I can't say if that's true for extension cords,
appliance cords, tool cords) is around 600V,

"Junior" hard service cord (the "J" in SJT) means 300v. That is still OK for
240. The better cords like SO are 600v.

I wasn't sure, which is why I hedged my statement.

Thanks.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

"Upscale" writes:
"Wilson" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Have you considered changing the plugs/receptacles?
240V stuff costs more, so changing the ends may be cheaper.

Is the wiring normally used for 120v sufficient for 240v use?



It depends.

scott

It is all about insulation. Current is a "non-issue".

I suspect that in good shape if you just change the connectors. It's
hard today to make insulation that is ok with 120 volts and not ok with
240 volts.

RB

LRod wrote:
On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 16:29:13 GMT, "Upscale"
wrote:


"Wilson" wrote in message
thlink.net...

Have you considered changing the plugs/receptacles?
240V stuff costs more, so changing the ends may be cheaper.

Is the wiring normally used for 120v sufficient for 240v use?


It's all about insulation and current capacity. I'm not sure about all
cases, but I think the normal voltage rating for any wire used in
house wiring (I can't say if that's true for extension cords,
appliance cords, tool cords) is around 600V, so that shouldn't be an
issue. The current draw for a tool on 240V is half that of a tool on
120V (assuming same power of motor), so that's not an issue.


- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

"Stephen M" wrote in message ...

The short answer is Yes. 240v in a cable is supplied by 2 wires (plus a
ground). Each "hot" wire carries 120v. By switching ends, you are making the
neutral (white) wire function as the other hot (red) wire. 240v motors do
not require a neutral.

Just as with a 120v extension cord, the current draw of the tool, and length
of the cord determines how heavy a cord (wire guage) is required.

The problem is that almost any US tool you run off 240V is a heavy user
of current.

In the UK we have really dinky 240V cords. We can do that because every
UK plug has a fuse in it. US plugs do not have individual fuses, not even
the 240V type.

Even though each 'hot' wire is 120v the difference between them is 240v,
actually it is more than that because 240V is the RMS value, the peak
higher.

I doubt there would be a problem running a 240V lightbulb of a repurposed
120V extension. But a Unisaw drawing 20amps on power up is a completely
different matter.


At a minimum check the current rating for the cable. But a better plan
would probably be to buy a purpose designed 240v cable from europe.

No need to go to Europe for anything (especially the UK where the plug-end
for even a table lamp is the size of the US dryer plug...severe over-kill,
all due to that obsession with fire because of something that happened about
400 years ago and as I understand it was a blessing in disguise because it
killed all the rats that carried the black plague).

I think you can trust the voltage ratings for extension cords that are noted
in the instruction manual for any US machine. If Delta/Jet/anybody else say
14 or 12ga wire is sufficient, then believe them.

"Phillip Hallam-Baker" wrote in message
om...
"Stephen M" wrote in message
...

The short answer is Yes. 240v in a cable is supplied by 2 wires (plus a
ground). Each "hot" wire carries 120v. By switching ends, you are making
the
neutral (white) wire function as the other hot (red) wire. 240v motors
do
not require a neutral.

Just as with a 120v extension cord, the current draw of the tool, and
length
of the cord determines how heavy a cord (wire guage) is required.

The problem is that almost any US tool you run off 240V is a heavy user
of current.

In the UK we have really dinky 240V cords. We can do that because every
UK plug has a fuse in it. US plugs do not have individual fuses, not even
the 240V type.

Even though each 'hot' wire is 120v the difference between them is 240v,
actually it is more than that because 240V is the RMS value, the peak
higher.

I doubt there would be a problem running a 240V lightbulb of a repurposed
120V extension. But a Unisaw drawing 20amps on power up is a completely
different matter.


At a minimum check the current rating for the cable. But a better plan
would probably be to buy a purpose designed 240v cable from europe.

(Phillip Hallam-Baker) writes:
"Stephen M" wrote in message ...
[snip]

Just as with a 120v extension cord, the current draw of the tool, and length
of the cord determines how heavy a cord (wire guage) is required.

The problem is that almost any US tool you run off 240V is a heavy user
of current.

[snip]

I doubt there would be a problem running a 240V lightbulb of a repurposed
120V extension. But a Unisaw drawing 20amps on power up is a completely
different matter.


At a minimum check the current rating for the cable. But a better plan
would probably be to buy a purpose designed 240v cable from europe.

Well, wire is wire, and it would be difficult to find cables in europe
with NEMA plugs/receptacles.

Given the length and gauge of the wire, it is pretty simple
to determine both the ampacity of the wire as well as any voltage drop.

Figuring a 3HP tablesaw at about 17A @ 230V and a 100' retractable
extension cord, you're looking at a AWG 10 requirement for the cord and
any circuit feeding it.

scott