I've got a customer trying to drill a 1-1/16" diameter hole through a thin
(1/16") piece of wood/plastic composite material.

They can't really use a hole saw because the "plug" gets stuck in the center
of the tool and the process is automatic, running a few hundred holes per
shift and only stopping the drill machine to end a shift or change a tool.

I know they make plug ejection tooling for metalworking hole saws (I sell
'em!) but they don't work with thin wood or plastic materials so I doubt
they will work with this.

I'm thinking there is either a special tool for this that ejects the plug or
that someone sells a unibit (stepped drill bit) off the shelf with the
1-1/16" diameter capability... But I can't find the daggone thing.

Anyone have any good ideas for me other than having custom tooling made or
modifying a standard hole saw? Maybe a source for that stepped drill bit
(looks like a Christmas tree).

Already tried McMaster and MSC but I'm sure there are other options out
there or that I may have missed it.


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I've got a customer trying to drill a 1-1/16" diameter hole through a thin
(1/16") piece of wood/plastic composite material.

They can't really use a hole saw because the "plug" gets stuck in the
center of the tool and the process is automatic, running a few hundred
holes per shift and only stopping the drill machine to end a shift or
change a tool.

I know they make plug ejection tooling for metalworking hole saws (I sell
'em!) but they don't work with thin wood or plastic materials so I doubt
they will work with this.

I'm thinking there is either a special tool for this that ejects the plug
or that someone sells a unibit (stepped drill bit) off the shelf with the
1-1/16" diameter capability... But I can't find the daggone thing.

Anyone have any good ideas for me other than having custom tooling made or
modifying a standard hole saw? Maybe a source for that stepped drill bit
(looks like a Christmas tree).

Already tried McMaster and MSC but I'm sure there are other options out
there or that I may have missed it.


How about

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/FB1-116.html

or

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/cgi-m...8&redirect=yes

or

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D285.../dp/B0000DD32U

or

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I've got a customer trying to drill a 1-1/16" diameter hole through a thin
(1/16") piece of wood/plastic composite material.

They can't really use a hole saw because the "plug" gets stuck in the center
of the tool and the process is automatic, running a few hundred holes per
shift and only stopping the drill machine to end a shift or change a tool.

I know they make plug ejection tooling for metalworking hole saws (I sell
'em!) but they don't work with thin wood or plastic materials so I doubt
they will work with this.

I'm thinking there is either a special tool for this that ejects the plug or
that someone sells a unibit (stepped drill bit) off the shelf with the
1-1/16" diameter capability... But I can't find the daggone thing.

Anyone have any good ideas for me other than having custom tooling made or
modifying a standard hole saw? Maybe a source for that stepped drill bit
(looks like a Christmas tree).

Already tried McMaster and MSC but I'm sure there are other options out
there or that I may have missed it.


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

How about a 1 1/16" forstner bit?

How about

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/FB1-116.html

or

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/cgi-m...8&redirect=yes

or

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D285.../dp/B0000DD32U

or


I would think that a highly "plastic" plug might stick to the center of a
Forstner-type bit... Will have to grab one and test it on the drill press
for a few dozen holes, etc.

I'm good at automatic drills. I'm good at metal drilling. That makes me
good at automatic metal drilling. Automatic wood drilling is usually
something we can figure out no problem, but add in sticky plastic-like stuff
and thin wall, hole-saw type stuff and asking questions here is cheaper than
flying to a customer's site for a fix.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

A #22 cutter, for making upholstery buttons, is 1-1/16" in diameter.
It can cut through 15-20 layers of upholstery fabric in a snap. In
the link, the cutter is the center piece and can be purchased
separately for about $30. Just about any upholstery supplier in your
area will have one in stock. It is hollow, so you would still need to
punch the cut material from the center. When cutting fabric manually,
a Handy button machine is used to press the cutter through the fabric,
but a mallet can be used, also.... just keep the cutter straight/
vertical onto the surface.

This cutter could probably be mounted (chucked) on some sort of press
machine of your own making, for mass cutting. I don't think the issue
of removing the cut disks, from its center, would be difficult, at
all. I think if you saw one of these cutters, an easy mounting/
chucking technique could be readily devised for your mass production
needs.

When cutting fabric with the manual Handy button machine (metal base),
a backer board (wood) is used to prevent the cutting edge from
becoming dull or chipped, on the metal base. Furniture companies use
pneumatic Handy button machines for cutting fabric disks and making
buttons enmasse, so the option of getting one of these pneumatic
machines is there, also, if you are to do this long term.

http://www.upholsterysuppliesandfoam...cat=287&page=1

Sonny

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
How about

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/FB1-116.html

or

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/cgi-m...8&redirect=yes

or

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D285.../dp/B0000DD32U

or


I would think that a highly "plastic" plug might stick to the center of a
Forstner-type bit... Will have to grab one and test it on the drill press
for a few dozen holes, etc.

I'm good at automatic drills. I'm good at metal drilling. That makes me
good at automatic metal drilling. Automatic wood drilling is usually
something we can figure out no problem, but add in sticky plastic-like
stuff and thin wall, hole-saw type stuff and asking questions here is
cheaper than flying to a customer's site for a fix.


If the rate is slow enough there should be no problem and or if the rate is
fast enough the bit should self clean with enough force.






Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

On 2010-07-01 12:43:46 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill" said:

I've got a customer trying to drill a 1-1/16" diameter hole through a
thin (1/16") piece of wood/plastic composite material.

Is the end result the hole, or the material removed from the hole?

What about a punch and die and an arbor press? Probably better with a
flexible plastic, but you remember those balsa airplanes you'd punch
from a sheeet?

In article ,
Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I've got a customer trying to drill a 1-1/16" diameter hole through a thin
(1/16") piece of wood/plastic composite material.

They can't really use a hole saw because the "plug" gets stuck in the center
of the tool and the process is automatic, running a few hundred holes per
shift and only stopping the drill machine to end a shift or change a tool.

I know they make plug ejection tooling for metalworking hole saws (I sell
'em!) but they don't work with thin wood or plastic materials so I doubt
they will work with this.

the concept works just fine.

create a push-plate that is reasonably close to the id of the hole-saw.
say 15/16". back it with a stiff spring of fairly large dia, say 3/4"
(the larger the spring dia the less wobble to the push-plate.
tension the spring so that the push plate is just proud of the tips
of the hole-saw teeth.

Slap it in a drill press, or similar. down goes the quill, plate hits the
material, saw starts cutting. cuts through the piece. quill comes up,
spring pushes the material clear of the blade. voila.

I'm thinking there is either a special tool for this that ejects the plug or

the -fancy- one has the push-late on a lazy-susan type bearing, so it doesn't
scuff the work material. cheap ones use slick plastic.

that someone sells a unibit (stepped drill bit) off the shelf with the
1-1/16" diameter capability... But I can't find the daggone thing.

Anyone have any good ideas for me other than having custom tooling made or
modifying a standard hole saw? Maybe a source for that stepped drill bit
(looks like a Christmas tree).

Already tried McMaster and MSC but I'm sure there are other options out
there or that I may have missed it.

Harbor Freight has step bits up to over 1 1/4". Used it severl times
and still works great. Sharp as new. And cheap, two in a package, on
is a smaller size, under $20

Is the end result the hole, or the material removed from the hole?

Two holes, side-by-side with a special multi-spindle drill head actually.

What about a punch and die and an arbor press? Probably better with a
flexible plastic, but you remember those balsa airplanes you'd punch from
a sheeet?

Not possible. Or at least not affordable given the multitude of part shapes
with the same two hole pattern.

My best guess is they will try a forstner bit, a twist drill or even a
metal-working end mill bit... But exploring the ideas out there also fuels
my future "I can solve that problem for you" activities. Thus I ask.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

How many pieces in a typical production run?

Guessing a thousand parts per day or so... With the production "run" never
ending unless their business changes significantly.

That's 2000 holes a day (two per part with my multi-drill set-up) or
approximately 100,000 holes a year given holidays, retooling, etc.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote:

Guessing a thousand parts per day or so... With the production
"run" never ending unless their business changes significantly.
-----------------------
Is this just a piece of sheet material with just these couple of holes
thru it or is there additional machining, forming, etc involved?

Lew

Is this just a piece of sheet material with just these couple of holes
thru it or is there additional machining, forming, etc involved?

Can't get into it too deeply, but it is essentially a bunch of formed parts,
ranging in shape and size with a "lip" that needs a set of holes made in the
same size and spacing, but different locations per part.

I provide the drill with the C-C distance multi-head drill set. They
provide the table and all the different fixturing to meet the parts shapes
properly so that the drill hits in the right location every time on every
part.

When they move the part to the next "station" for whatever happens next,
they essentially dump the chips / plug into a recycling bin (or maybe onto
the foor for all I know!) and go at it again.

I haven't actually been to their location (hardly ever need to) so they
could be medically clean or "Pittsburgh foundry" dirty... No clue and no
worries. My machine will work just fine in either case.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R