On Feb 19, 8:09*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message

diainc...



"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
...

I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6
degrees?

Come on, Leon. Stop trying to be cute. He sets his miter guage at 19.4
degrees. Jeez.

Tom

And he ends up with a miter at 19.4 degrees. *He needs 70.6 degrees. *The
cut needs to be more towards a rip rather than closer to a cross cut. *DOH!

Another way to explain is this:
Your blade is 90 degrees relative to your fence, right?
Now subtract 19.4 degrees. Whatcha got now?

i know, I know, LOL

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 8:09 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message

diainc...



"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
...

I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6
degrees?

Come on, Leon. Stop trying to be cute. He sets his miter guage at 19.4
degrees. Jeez.

Tom

And he ends up with a miter at 19.4 degrees. He needs 70.6 degrees. The
cut needs to be more towards a rip rather than closer to a cross cut. DOH!

Well, then you didn't look at Swing's SU pic. It *is* closer to a rip
than a cross cut.

Which is... what I said he needs...... right?

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 8:09 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message

diainc...



"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
...

I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6
degrees?

Come on, Leon. Stop trying to be cute. He sets his miter guage at 19.4
degrees. Jeez.

Tom

And he ends up with a miter at 19.4 degrees. He needs 70.6 degrees. The
cut needs to be more towards a rip rather than closer to a cross cut. DOH!

Another way to explain is this:
Your blade is 90 degrees relative to your fence, right?
Now subtract 19.4 degrees. Whatcha got now?



That would work if the miter gauge indicated 90 degrees but mine only goes
to 50 degrees so...
What are you going to subtract 19.4 degrees from on your miter gauge fence?
0 degrees or 45~ 50 degrees?

The problem here is that the typical miter gauge has no 90 degree setting.
What you think is a 90 degree setting is actually a 0 degree setting.

Any setting on the average miter gauge is going to result in a cut that is
wrong unless you add a jig or template to hold the work's long edge 90
degrees to the miter fence and then set the gauge to 19.4 degrees.

Tom Dacon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 2/18/10 2:15 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:

It seems to be obvious to most of us that he's referring to a cutting
tool, not a measuring tool.

Let's go back to the OP's post:

Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this.

I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and
then use it on the miter.

The miter only has 1 degree increments.

Suggestions?


ALL my comments apply.

Figure out the thickness of the block you have to put at one end of the
fence to get .4 degrees, and put one there.

On 02/19/2010 07:45 AM, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 19, 8:09 am, wrote:
"Tom wrote in message

diainc...



wrote in message
...

"Tom wrote in message
...

I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6
degrees?

Come on, Leon. Stop trying to be cute. He sets his miter guage at 19.4
degrees. Jeez.

Tom

And he ends up with a miter at 19.4 degrees. He needs 70.6 degrees. The
cut needs to be more towards a rip rather than closer to a cross cut. DOH!

Another way to explain is this:
Your blade is 90 degrees relative to your fence, right?
Now subtract 19.4 degrees. Whatcha got now?

i know, I know, LOL

Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade is 0 degrees relative to
the fence, at least that's the way it appears on MY table saw.

--
"Once upon a time, The END."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Another way to explain is this:
Your blade is 90 degrees relative to your fence, right?
Now subtract 19.4 degrees. Whatcha got now?

i know, I know, LOL

Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade is 0
degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the way it appears on MY
table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

On 02/19/2010 08:27 AM, Leon wrote:
"Steve wrote in message
...
Another way to explain is this:
Your blade is 90 degrees relative to your fence, right?
Now subtract 19.4 degrees. Whatcha got now?

i know, I know, LOL

Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade is 0
degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the way it appears on MY
table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg

:-)

--
What percentage of the driving populace do you suppose actually
understands the rules of engagement at a four-way stop?
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...

Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade is 0
degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the way it appears on MY
table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg

:-)


or,, :~)

http://www.incra.com/images/miter_5000_zoom.jpg

On 2/19/2010 1:13 AM, Tom Dacon wrote:

wrote in message
...
Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this.

I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and
then use it on the miter.

The miter only has 1 degree increments.

Suggestions?

MJ

To everyone on this thread, here's a trigonometry lesson, and for
something like this, it is really, really all you need to know.

Everything that "you need to know" was posted with Leon's one line post,
and my graphic representation of that one line that immediately
proceeded it.

Simple, elegant, and with no need for an epic saga.

As Mike says, you doth protest too much ... if you're not a government
worker, you missed your calling in life.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
...
snip


There it is. I hope this helps a bit. I don't have trig right at my
fingertips any more either, even though I've used it a lot in my lifetime,
and sometimes I have to bumble around a little to remember what I need to
do to solve a problem, but this part of it - the tangent - the rise and
the run - is easy to remember and really pays its way.

Hope this helps,
Tom Dacon


"Typically " an explanation like this is not one of repeated practiced
experience, more so a repeat of something published. Those that have done
this time and again realize that it is not a complicated feat and that
knowing how to place the material on the machine accomplishs correct results
in "much" less time than it takes to explain.

On Feb 19, 10:19*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message

...
snip

There it is. I hope this helps a bit. I don't have trig right at my
fingertips any more either, even though I've used it a lot in my lifetime,
and sometimes I have to bumble around a little to remember what I need to
do to solve a problem, but this part of it - the tangent - the rise and
the run - is easy to remember and really pays its way.

Hope this helps,
Tom Dacon

"Typically " *an explanation like this is not one of repeated *practiced
experience, more so a repeat of something published. *Those that have done
this time and again realize that it is not a complicated feat and that
knowing how to place the material on the machine accomplishs correct results
in "much" less time than it takes to explain.

Balderdash, hogwash, nonsense......waitasec...oh...okay.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

There it is. I hope this helps a bit. I don't have trig right at my
fingertips any more either, even though I've used it a lot in my
lifetime,
and sometimes I have to bumble around a little to remember what I need
to
do to solve a problem, but this part of it - the tangent - the rise and
the run - is easy to remember and really pays its way.

Hope this helps,
Tom Dacon

"Typically " an explanation like this is not one of repeated practiced
experience, more so a repeat of something published. Those that have done
this time and again realize that it is not a complicated feat and that
knowing how to place the material on the machine accomplishs correct
results
in "much" less time than it takes to explain.

Balderdash, hogwash, nonsense......waitasec...oh...okay.

Is that a definite maybe?

On Feb 19, 10:38*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...





There it is. I hope this helps a bit. I don't have trig right at my
fingertips any more either, even though I've used it a lot in my
lifetime,
and sometimes I have to bumble around a little to remember what I need
to
do to solve a problem, but this part of it - the tangent - the rise and
the run - is easy to remember and really pays its way.

Hope this helps,
Tom Dacon

"Typically " an explanation like this is not one of repeated practiced
experience, more so a repeat of something published. Those that have done
this time and again realize that it is not a complicated feat and that
knowing how to place the material on the machine accomplishs correct
results
in "much" less time than it takes to explain.

Balderdash, hogwash, nonsense......waitasec...oh...okay.

Is that a definite maybe?

I used to have trouble making up my mind, now I'm not so sure.

On 2/19/10 8:44 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade is 0
degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the way it appears on MY
table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg


What an idiot. Do *YOU* see a 70.6 degree setting on that fence?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 02/19/2010 12:07 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 8:44 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade is 0
degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the way it appears on MY
table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg

What an idiot. Do *YOU* see a 70.6 degree setting on that fence?

No, but it's BIG. And it's a FENCE. And it's really awesome, and... what the hell were we
talking about again? :-)

--
"Once upon a time, The END."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 2/19/2010 12:42 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

Crocodile Dundee ... how soon we forget!


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 02/19/2010 12:55 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/19/2010 12:42 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

Crocodile Dundee ... how soon we forget!

Rawight! :-)

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Feb 19, 2:15*pm, Steve Turner wrote:
On 02/19/2010 12:55 PM, Swingman wrote:

On 2/19/2010 12:42 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

Crocodile Dundee ... how soon we forget!

Rawight! *:-)

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Nawww.. THIS is a FENCE!!!!

http://www.australiantraveller.com/i...rticle&id=2685

-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 8:44 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade
is 0 degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the way it
appears on MY table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg


What an idiot. Do *YOU* see a 70.6 degree setting on that fence?

It has a 70.5 degree stop and can be fine tuned from there.

If you gotta have 70.6 actually marked on the gage you need a 1000SE or
1000HD, both of which have 1/10 degree verniers.

On 2/19/10 1:57 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 8:44 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the blade
is 0 degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the way it
appears on MY table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg


What an idiot. Do *YOU* see a 70.6 degree setting on that fence?

It has a 70.5 degree stop and can be fine tuned from there.

If you gotta have 70.6 actually marked on the gage you need a 1000SE or
1000HD, both of which have 1/10 degree verniers.


Did you look at the picture? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

wrote:
Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this.

I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and
then use it on the miter.

The miter only has 1 degree increments.

Suggestions?


When faced with a new problem, it is often helpful to reduce this new
problem to a problem that has already been solved.

Tell me, have you ever made a 35.3° cut with a miter saw?

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
wrote:
Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this.

I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and
then use it on the miter.

The miter only has 1 degree increments.

Suggestions?


When faced with a new problem, it is often helpful to reduce this new
problem to a problem that has already been solved.

Tell me, have you ever made a 35.3° cut with a miter saw?

Nevermind the answer to that question, how did you make the degree thingy
show up after the 3?

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Typically " an explanation like this is not one of repeated practiced
experience, more so a repeat of something published. Those that have done
this time and again realize that it is not a complicated feat and that
knowing how to place the material on the machine accomplishs correct
results in "much" less time than it takes to explain.

Well, of course it takes much less time to do it than to read about it. I
gave a detailed explanation of the process, so that someone using it would
have an understanding of what was going on, rather than just following a
cookbook. In practice, it takes no more than a minute or two to lay out the
angle and set the miter gauge.

I wrote the procedure from my own experience and my own practice in the
shop, not from something I read in a book (although I learned trigonometry
from a book, of course, back in high school). For most shop requirements,
the fixed-stop miter gauges like the Kreg and the Incra and their like do a
fine job - quick, accurate, and repeatable. I use one myself. But when they
can't do the job, as in the case of the OP, you have to have some other way
to handle the problem, and the one I described is both simple and accurate.
You just have to read it with an open mind, preferably in the shop where you
can try it out and prove to yourself that it works.

By the way, while I didn't mention it in my post, if you have to do an
angled cut on a large panel this procedure is almost essential for an
accurate cut. In that case, you lay the angle out right on the panel, clamp
a straight-edge, and make the cut with a circular saw. Because for long runs
the procedure is sensitive to the accuracy of the perpendicular line, I
would strike it using the beam compass method, with a modified version of
this technique: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perpendicular, or by the
well-known technique of flipping the square and splitting the difference.
You could, if you liked, trust the squareness of the panel, but I don't.
After you have an accurate perpendicular your accuracy is assured.

Tom

"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Typically " an explanation like this is not one of repeated practiced
experience, more so a repeat of something published. Those that have
done this time and again realize that it is not a complicated feat and
that knowing how to place the material on the machine accomplishs correct
results in "much" less time than it takes to explain.

Well, of course it takes much less time to do it than to read about it. I
gave a detailed explanation of the process, so that someone using it would
have an understanding of what was going on, rather than just following a
cookbook. In practice, it takes no more than a minute or two to lay out
the angle and set the miter gauge.

Actually, ;~) just so we are clear, it takes less time to make the set up
and make the cut than simply saying this,

Put your wood on the mitersaw 90 degrees to normal, adjust miter setting to
19.4 degrees and make the cut.

On 2/19/2010 3:09 PM, Leon wrote:
"Tom wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...

"Typically " an explanation like this is not one of repeated practiced
experience, more so a repeat of something published. Those that have
done this time and again realize that it is not a complicated feat and
that knowing how to place the material on the machine accomplishs correct
results in "much" less time than it takes to explain.

Well, of course it takes much less time to do it than to read about it. I
gave a detailed explanation of the process, so that someone using it would
have an understanding of what was going on, rather than just following a
cookbook. In practice, it takes no more than a minute or two to lay out
the angle and set the miter gauge.

Actually, ;~) just so we are clear, it takes less time to make the set up
and make the cut than simply saying this,

Put your wood on the mitersaw 90 degrees to normal, adjust miter setting to
19.4 degrees and make the cut.

Or graphically speaking:

Just kidding ... dejavu all over again, I gotta get back to work.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 2/19/2010 3:09 PM, Leon wrote:

Actually, ;~) just so we are clear, it takes less time to make the set
up
and make the cut than simply saying this,

Put your wood on the mitersaw 90 degrees to normal, adjust miter setting
to
19.4 degrees and make the cut.

Or graphically speaking:

Just kidding ... dejavu all over again, I gotta get back to work.



Mutt'n Jeff?

On Feb 19, 3:31*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

m...

wrote:
Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this.

I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and
then use it on the miter.

The miter only has 1 degree increments.

Suggestions?

When faced with a new problem, it is often helpful to reduce this new
problem to a problem that has already been solved.

Tell me, have you ever made a 35.3° cut with a miter saw?

Nevermind the answer to that question, *how did you make the degree thingy
show up after the 3?

What degree thingy?°

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
...

Put your wood on the mitersaw 90 degrees to normal, adjust miter setting
to
19.4 degrees and make the cut.

Leon, maybe you're missing my point. What I have been describing is an
accurate method to get the exact 19.4 degrees, not what you do once you get
your miter gauge set to it.

Tom

What you need is a "Precision Universal Bevel Vernier Protractor"
http://www.starrett.com/download/371_cat_70_p95.pdf
A lot of times you can find these in pawn shops.
Set this to the angle and align the saw blade and table to the blades.
A model 360 (non vernier) would be very good. Vernier version Is best!
New it was $250. Something like it in plastic and lower in precision
can be had at office suppliers. This one is rated at 1/12 degree with vernier.

Martin

Tom Dacon wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
...
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
...
Put your wood on the mitersaw 90 degrees to normal, adjust miter setting
to
19.4 degrees and make the cut.

Leon, maybe you're missing my point. What I have been describing is an
accurate method to get the exact 19.4 degrees, not what you do once you get
your miter gauge set to it.

Tom

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
What you need is a "Precision Universal Bevel Vernier Protractor"
http://www.starrett.com/download/371_cat_70_p95.pdf
A lot of times you can find these in pawn shops.
Set this to the angle and align the saw blade and table to the blades.
A model 360 (non vernier) would be very good. Vernier version Is best!
New it was $250. Something like it in plastic and lower in precision
can be had at office suppliers. This one is rated at 1/12 degree with
vernier.

Martin


You nailed it, Martin. That's the kind of thing I was talking about.

Early on in this benighted thread I talked about using a protractor as a
tool to solve a problem which as the original poster posed it was to measure
an arbitrary angle to the precision of a tenth of a degree and make a
suitable cut. Machinists are accustomed to solving problems like this, and
consequently they have the tools to solve them. If a machinist gets an angle
called out as 70.6 degrees, he understands that he needs to produce an angle
between 70.55 and 70.65 degrees. He HAS to produce an angle to that
measurement and those constraints. This is a nice tool, Starrett as you
might expect, and well within the constraints of the problem. I have a
slightly less accurate machinist's protracter of my own, but I'm going to be
on the lookout for one of these. Thanks for the tip. I hope we don't end up
in a bidding war :-)

Glad to see someone here who doesn't have something to prove :-)

Tom

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
wrote:

When faced with a new problem, it is often helpful to reduce this new
problem to a problem that has already been solved.

Tell me, have you ever made a 35.3° cut with a miter saw?

Well, at least there's SOMEONE here with a sense of humor.

A mathematician knows that rule: problems are either trivial (we know how to
solve them), or hard (we don't).

As it happen, maestro, I HAVE solved this one. Not this exact one, of
course, but once in the distant past I had to cut an angle of
2.35333333333333333 degrees, and I made a template from it. All I have to do
is produce twenty-nine exact duplicates of it, stack them up on the miter
gauge, and I've nailed this 70.6 degree problem.

So what else have you got for me?

Tom

-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 1:57 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 8:44 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the
blade is 0 degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the
way it appears on MY table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg


What an idiot. Do *YOU* see a 70.6 degree setting on that fence?

It has a 70.5 degree stop and can be fine tuned from there.

If you gotta have 70.6 actually marked on the gage you need a 1000SE
or 1000HD, both of which have 1/10 degree verniers.


Did you look at the picture? :-)

Did you read the manual?

Tom Dacon wrote:
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
What you need is a "Precision Universal Bevel Vernier Protractor"
http://www.starrett.com/download/371_cat_70_p95.pdf
A lot of times you can find these in pawn shops.
Set this to the angle and align the saw blade and table to the
blades. A model 360 (non vernier) would be very good. Vernier
version Is best! New it was $250. Something like it in plastic and
lower in precision can be had at office suppliers. This one is
rated at 1/12 degree with vernier.

Martin


You nailed it, Martin. That's the kind of thing I was talking about.

Early on in this benighted thread I talked about using a protractor
as a tool to solve a problem which as the original poster posed it
was to measure an arbitrary angle to the precision of a tenth of a
degree and make a suitable cut. Machinists are accustomed to solving
problems like this, and consequently they have the tools to solve
them. If a machinist gets an angle called out as 70.6 degrees, he
understands that he needs to produce an angle between 70.55 and 70.65
degrees. He HAS to produce an angle to that measurement and those
constraints. This is a nice tool, Starrett as you might expect, and
well within the constraints of the problem. I have a slightly less
accurate machinist's protracter of my own, but I'm going to be on the
lookout for one of these. Thanks for the tip. I hope we don't end up
in a bidding war :-)

Glad to see someone here who doesn't have something to prove :-)

FWIW, Grizzly has a dial protracter readable to 5 minutes for 40 bucks and a
digital readable to .1 degree for 90. Not Starrett quality of course but
should do most hobbyists just fine.

On 2/19/2010 11:09 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 1:57 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 8:44 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the
blade is 0 degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the
way it appears on MY table saw.


I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...E/78-902_1.jpg


What an idiot. Do *YOU* see a 70.6 degree setting on that fence?

It has a 70.5 degree stop and can be fine tuned from there.

If you gotta have 70.6 actually marked on the gage you need a 1000SE
or 1000HD, both of which have 1/10 degree verniers.


Did you look at the picture? :-)

Apparently not...

Did you read the manual?

J., you seem to be referring to the picture of the Incra miter gauge that Leon
posted; Mike is referring to the picture of the Biesemeyer fence that I posted,
which (if you note the quoting above, none of which I've snipped) is what this
branch of the thread is about.

There, I fixed it. :-)

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Feb 20, 10:14*am, Steve Turner
wrote:
On 2/19/2010 11:09 PM, J. Clarke wrote:





-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 1:57 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 2/19/10 8:44 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Well ya cornfused me on that one, Bubba. I'm pretty sure the
blade is 0 degrees relative to the fence, at least that's the
way it appears on MY table saw.

I think he is talking about the miter gauge fence.

That's not a FENCE. THIS is a fence:

http://www.deltaportercable.com//Pro...ics/PHOTOS/DEL...

What an idiot. *Do *YOU* see a 70.6 degree setting on that fence?

It has a 70.5 degree stop and can be fine tuned from there.

If you gotta have 70.6 actually marked on the gage you need a 1000SE
or 1000HD, both of which have 1/10 degree verniers.

Did you look at the picture? * *:-)

Apparently not...

Did you read the manual?

J., you seem to be referring to the picture of the Incra miter gauge that Leon
posted; Mike is referring to the picture of the Biesemeyer fence that I posted,
which (if you note the quoting above, none of which I've snipped) is what this
branch of the thread is about.

There, I fixed it. *:-)

That's what YOU think!

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:06:05 -0800 (PST), the infamous Robatoy
scrawled the following:

On Feb 19, 3:31*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message

m...

wrote:
Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this.

I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and
then use it on the miter.

The miter only has 1 degree increments.

Suggestions?

When faced with a new problem, it is often helpful to reduce this new
problem to a problem that has already been solved.

Tell me, have you ever made a 35.3° cut with a miter saw?

Nevermind the answer to that question, *how did you make the degree thingy
show up after the 3?

What degree thingy?°

I know what you mean, Toy. I'm getting all lost in this high-tech
vocab they're tossing around, too.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 00:16:59 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

Tom Dacon wrote:

Glad to see someone here who doesn't have something to prove :-)

FWIW, Grizzly has a dial protracter readable to 5 minutes for 40 bucks and a
digital readable to .1 degree for 90. Not Starrett quality of course but
should do most hobbyists just fine.

Aww, who cares, when caulk and putty will fill gaps up to 1/4-inch.
silly grin

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

Nevermind the answer to that question, how did you make the degree thingy
show up after the 3?

What degree thingy?°


Ice Hole! Howd ju do dat?

On 2/20/10 1:26 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

Nevermind the answer to that question, how did you make the degree thingy
show up after the 3?

What degree thingy?°


Ice Hole! Howd ju do dat?

We use a metric keyboard in Canada °

Hope that helps.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 2/20/2010 12:26 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

Nevermind the answer to that question, how did you make the degree thingy
show up after the 3?

What degree thingy?°


Ice Hole! Howd ju do dat?

ALT+0176 = °

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/