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#1
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this.
I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and then use it on the miter. The miter only has 1 degree increments. Suggestions? MJ |
#2
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
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#3
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
wrote in message ... Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this. I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and then use it on the miter. The miter only has 1 degree increments. Suggestions? MJ Set it for 71 and give it a tap, or the left handed version is to set it to 70 and tap the other side. 1/10th of a degree is important for a moon shot, but I doubt you're going to tell it on anything in wood. What is the humidity today? Tomorrow? |
#4
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
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#5
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
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#6
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
wrote in message ... Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this. I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and then use it on the miter. The miter only has 1 degree increments. Suggestions? MJ Put your wood on the mitersaw 90 degrees to normal, adjust miter setting to 19.4 degrees. |
#7
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/17/2010 3:13 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this. I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and then use it on the miter. The miter only has 1 degree increments. Suggestions? MJ Put your wood on the mitersaw 90 degrees to normal, adjust miter setting to 19.4 degrees. Bingo! Or, graphically speaking: http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/30-60Cuts.pdf -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#8
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Swingman" wrote: Or, graphically speaking: http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/30-60Cuts.pdf ----------------- Use 70.6 triangle as aux fence and leave miter saw set at "0". Keeps life simple. Time to get a beer. Lew |
#9
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/17/2010 5:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Swingman" wrote: Or, graphically speaking: http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/30-60Cuts.pdf ----------------- Use 70.6 triangle as aux fence and leave miter saw set at "0". Keeps life simple. Time to get a beer. No beer until you take the time to make the "70.6 triangle" first, which is apparently not that easy for some, according to the OP. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#10
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
Want to thank all of you who responded to my question.
After consideration, I've decided that the "close enough" effort (half way between 70 and 71, with a SLIGHT bump to 70) is good for me. As much as I would love to deal with a geometry question, my math interests are more towards the theoretical these days (Riemann Zeta Function anyone?), which can cause many hours of brain freeze. It's interesting that a set of plans would have such an odd angle to cut, when no tool that I know of, would allow you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees. Hmm, MJ |
#12
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 2/17/2010 5:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote: "Swingman" wrote: Or, graphically speaking: http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/30-60Cuts.pdf ----------------- Use 70.6 triangle as aux fence and leave miter saw set at "0". Keeps life simple. Time to get a beer. No beer until you take the time to make the "70.6 triangle" first, which is apparently not that easy for some, according to the OP. Bull. . . something between 65 and 75 degrees plus Bondo works well for me. grin -- Nonny ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated, and articulate person who has absolutely no clue concerning what they are talking about. The person is typically a media commentator or politician. |
#13
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/17/2010 10:13 PM, Nonny wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 2/17/2010 5:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote: "Swingman" wrote: Or, graphically speaking: http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/30-60Cuts.pdf ----------------- Use 70.6 triangle as aux fence and leave miter saw set at "0". Keeps life simple. Time to get a beer. No beer until you take the time to make the "70.6 triangle" first, which is apparently not that easy for some, according to the OP. Bull. . . something between 65 and 75 degrees plus Bondo works well for me. grin When the sun's over the yardarm, there is such a thing as close enough. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#14
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
wrote in message ... Want to thank all of you who responded to my question. It's interesting that a set of plans would have such an odd angle to cut, when no tool that I know of, would allow you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees. Hmm, MJ You don't consider an accurate protracter a tool? Tom |
#15
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
" writes:
Want to thank all of you who responded to my question. After consideration, I've decided that the "close enough" effort (half way between 70 and 71, with a SLIGHT bump to 70) is good for me. As much as I would love to deal with a geometry question, my math interests are more towards the theoretical these days (Riemann Zeta Function anyone?), which can cause many hours of brain freeze. If you solve the Hilbert problem, I will trust that you also know basic plane geometry & trig... |
#16
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On Feb 17, 7:34*pm, "
wrote: Want to thank all of you who responded to my question. After consideration, I've decided that the "close enough" effort (half way between 70 and 71, with a SLIGHT bump to 70) is good for me. As much as I would love to deal with a geometry question, my math interests are more towards the theoretical these days (Riemann Zeta Function anyone?), which can cause many hours of brain freeze. It's interesting that a set of plans would have such an odd angle to cut, when no tool that I know of, would allow you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees. A few miter gauges have a 1/10 degree vernier, so the precision is available (though perhaps not to 70 degrees, directly). What the accuracy of the gauge is, including miter slot slop, may be another matter. |
#17
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/17/2010 11:17 PM, Morris Dovey wrote:
Are you sure we wouldn't be better off using SketchUp? Or CNC. What would either do without keyboards ... -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#18
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On Feb 18, 9:04*am, Swingman wrote:
On 2/17/2010 11:17 PM, Morris Dovey wrote: Are you sure we wouldn't be better off using SketchUp? Or CNC. What would either do without keyboards ... --www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) My Ouija Board has a USB2 port. |
#19
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On Feb 17, 6:28*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote: Or, graphically speaking: http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/30-60Cuts.pdf ----------------- Use 70.6 triangle as aux fence and leave miter saw set at "0". Keeps life simple. Time to get a beer. Lew These are handy: http://www.mortisejig.com/Angle%20divider.jpg |
#20
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/18/2010 8:18 AM, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 18, 9:04 am, wrote: On 2/17/2010 11:17 PM, Morris Dovey wrote: Are you sure we wouldn't be better off using SketchUp? Or CNC. What would either do without keyboards ... --www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) My Ouija Board has a USB2 port. My tape measures have wireless connections. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#21
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On Feb 18, 9:23*am, Swingman wrote:
On 2/18/2010 8:18 AM, Robatoy wrote: On Feb 18, 9:04 am, *wrote: On 2/17/2010 11:17 PM, Morris Dovey wrote: Are you sure we wouldn't be better off using SketchUp? Or CNC. What would either do without keyboards ... --www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) My Ouija Board has a USB2 port. My tape measures have wireless connections. *tips hat* .. .. .. and then wonders why not and when? |
#22
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message diainc... wrote in message ... Want to thank all of you who responded to my question. It's interesting that a set of plans would have such an odd angle to cut, when no tool that I know of, would allow you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees. Hmm, MJ You don't consider an accurate protracter a tool? Does your accurat protractor have teeth to cut the wood??? He is looking for a tool to "make" the cut not measure the cut. |
#23
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Swingman" wrote in message ... On 2/18/2010 9:40 AM, Leon wrote: Yeahbut Why even use the miter saw if you have to set up a jig? Why? For sake of argument ... Well, there is that. Doh! LOL |
#24
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
Does your accurat protractor have teeth to cut the wood??? He is looking for a tool to "make" the cut not measure the cut. You use the protractor to set the miter gauge, then you use the table saw to make the cut. How complicated is that? Tom |
#25
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
wrote in message ... On Feb 17, 7:34 pm, " wrote: A few miter gauges have a 1/10 degree vernier, so the precision is available (though perhaps not to 70 degrees, directly). What the accuracy of the gauge is, including miter slot slop, may be another matter. Come on, people - have you forgotten how to work without using miter gauges that have built-in stops??? Tom |
#26
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On Feb 18, 2:17*pm, "Tom Dacon" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Feb 17, 7:34 pm, " wrote: A few miter gauges have a 1/10 degree vernier, so the precision is available (though perhaps not to 70 degrees, directly). *What the accuracy of the gauge is, including miter slot slop, may be another matter. Come on, people - have you forgotten how to work without using miter gauges that have built-in stops??? Who said anything about stops? |
#27
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/18/10 2:15 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
Does your accurat protractor have teeth to cut the wood??? He is looking for a tool to "make" the cut not measure the cut. You use the protractor to set the miter gauge, then you use the table saw to make the cut. How complicated is that? Tom The point is.... in the OP's original statement, which you quoted, he stated... "no tool that I know of, would allow you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees." It seems to be obvious to most of us that he's referring to a cutting tool, not a measuring tool. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#28
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/18/2010 2:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
The point is.... in the OP's original statement, which you quoted, he stated... "no tool that I know of, would allow you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees." It seems to be obvious to most of us that he's referring to a cutting tool, not a measuring tool. Fercrissakes, quit clouding the issue with facts! g -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#29
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message diainc... Does your accurat protractor have teeth to cut the wood??? He is looking for a tool to "make" the cut not measure the cut. You use the protractor to set the miter gauge, then you use the table saw to make the cut. How complicated is that? Have you ever set your TS miter gauge to 70.6 degrees? |
#30
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... On Feb 17, 7:34 pm, " wrote: A few miter gauges have a 1/10 degree vernier, so the precision is available (though perhaps not to 70 degrees, directly). What the accuracy of the gauge is, including miter slot slop, may be another matter. Come on, people - have you forgotten how to work without using miter gauges that have built-in stops??? Tom I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6 degrees? |
#31
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On Feb 18, 10:14*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message ... wrote in message .... On Feb 17, 7:34 pm, " wrote: A few miter gauges have a 1/10 degree vernier, so the precision is available (though perhaps not to 70 degrees, directly). *What the accuracy of the gauge is, including miter slot slop, may be another matter. Come on, people - have you forgotten how to work without using miter gauges that have built-in stops??? Tom I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6 degrees? When you set it at 19.4. It's all in how you look at it G |
#32
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
Leon wrote:
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... On Feb 17, 7:34 pm, " wrote: A few miter gauges have a 1/10 degree vernier, so the precision is available (though perhaps not to 70 degrees, directly). What the accuracy of the gauge is, including miter slot slop, may be another matter. Come on, people - have you forgotten how to work without using miter gauges that have built-in stops??? Tom I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6 degrees? Sure. You move it to the position and tigten the screw. Geez. |
#33
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 2/18/10 2:15 PM, Tom Dacon wrote: It seems to be obvious to most of us that he's referring to a cutting tool, not a measuring tool. Let's go back to the OP's post: Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this. I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and then use it on the miter. The miter only has 1 degree increments. Suggestions? ALL my comments apply. Tom |
#34
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 2/18/10 2:15 PM, Tom Dacon wrote: It seems to be obvious to most of us that he's referring to a cutting tool, not a measuring tool. Mike, let's go back to the actual post: when no tool that I know of, would ALLOW you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees The emphasis, of course, is mine, because he was just asking a question, not telling you how to think. I'll stand by all comments I've made on this thread. Tom |
#35
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/18/10 11:17 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 2/18/10 2:15 PM, Tom Dacon wrote: It seems to be obvious to most of us that he's referring to a cutting tool, not a measuring tool. Let's go back to the OP's post: Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this. I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and then use it on the miter. The miter only has 1 degree increments. Suggestions? ALL my comments apply. Tom Then why didn't you quote that? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#36
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On 2/18/10 11:43 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 2/18/10 2:15 PM, Tom Dacon wrote: It seems to be obvious to most of us that he's referring to a cutting tool, not a measuring tool. Mike, let's go back to the actual post: when no tool that I know of, would ALLOW you to make a precision cut like 70.6 degrees The emphasis, of course, is mine, because he was just asking a question, not telling you how to think. I'll stand by all comments I've made on this thread. Tom Methinks the lady doth protesteth too much. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#37
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Leon" wrote in message ... "Tom Dacon" wrote in message ... I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6 degrees? Come on, Leon. Stop trying to be cute. He sets his miter guage at 19.4 degrees. Jeez. Tom |
#38
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
wrote in message ... Can't quite wrap my brain on how to tackle this. I could make a template on my TS with my Wixey and then use it on the miter. The miter only has 1 degree increments. Suggestions? MJ To everyone on this thread, here's a trigonometry lesson, and for something like this, it is really, really all you need to know. Who here has ever built a set of stairs, or put up a roof? It's all about the RISE and the RUN, right? The RISE is the vertical distance between the tops of two steps, the RUN is the horizontal distance between the noses of the steps. Or for a shed roof, the RISE is the height of the peak above the low side of the span, and the RUN is the width of the span. Well the RISE divided by the RUN is what's called the tangent of the angle. We're starting with an angle that we want on the edge of a board: 70.6. A little thought tells us that to get that on a table saw we need to set our miter gauge at 90 degrees minus 70.6, or 19.4 degrees. That's the angle we need between the miter gauge bar and the face of the gauge. When we put a piece of wood against the miter gauge face and run it through, we'll leave an edge on the board that has an angle of 70.6 degrees with respect to the side that rested against the miter gauge. Now, we all have PC's right? And they all have a little application called the Calculator. Or we have a hand calculator and if it's a scientific calculator it has a TAN button on it. If it doesn't, fire up your PC. Start up Calculator, or use your scientific calculator, and type in 19.4, then hit the TAN button. What you'll see is the tangent of 19.4 degrees: 0.3521555 plus a whole bunch of other digits. Now here's the deal: if you think of that in inches, it's the RISE over a RUN of one inch. For each horizontal inch, the line rises about 11/32 inches or a little more. For ten inches of run, it rises 3.521555 inches or about 3 17/32 inches. Now take a piece of scrap plywood, about 24 inches by 24 inches, with one good straight side. At about the middle of the best side, strike a line across it with your most accurate square - and it should be an accurate one - using a sharp hard-lead pencil or a striking knife. Since we have a 24-inch piece of plywood, let's use most of it: measure up that line exactly 20 inches and strike a mark across it. That 20 inches is going to be our RUN. With me so far? Now to use the tangent: Multiply the RISE over one inch (0.3521555...) by the RUN (20 inches), and you get 7.0431118... inches. In fractional inches, that's damned close to seven inches plus a 32nd and a half, or 3/64ths. At my age, they might as well not put 64ths on scales any more, so I'd do a 32nd and a half, as best as I could judge it. Measure that distance to the right from the perpendicular line and strike it on the good edge of the panel. Finally, draw an angled line between that point and that 20-inch cross-mark you made on the vertical line. There it is. A line that describes an angle of 70.6 degrees with respect to your good straight edge. Finally the rubber hits the road: take your miter gauge and turn it over and lay it down on the panel. Swing the bar until it lies along that angled line as closely as your eye can gauge it. Tighten down the screw. But wait, you might say, what if I'm a little off with my measurements - what angle would I get instead? Well, as the calculator tells us with a little keypunching, if you were to use 7 1/32 instead of 7 3/64 (a 64th short), you'd get 70.63 degrees; if you were to use 7 1/16 (a 64th long) you'd get 70.55 degrees, and in either case we're out no more than 1/64 inch over a board width of 20 inches. Unfortunately our OP didn't tell us how wide his board needed to be, but it's probably nowhere near this wide. At ten inches of width, it turns out, it'll be no more than a thousandth of an inch off. So put the miter gauge in the table saw and make your cut. Then offer the piece up to see how good your fit is, like we do with every board we've ever cut in our lives. It's going to be perfect, or damned near to it. And if it's not, what do we do? We reach into our aprons, don't we, and we pull out a block plane and correct the fit by whatever it takes to make the fit air-tight. A 64th of an inch is one and a half thousandths of an inch, remember. A faster and easier way to do this is to use an accurate protractor, as I've recommended elsewhere in this thread. You'll eyeball the .6 degree on any protractor I've ever seen - even a machinist's protractor- you'll make your cut, and you'll correct the fit with a block plane if you have to. For a reasonably narrow board you'll be damned near perfect. But even then, taking the time to lay it out as I described will get get you closer than the protractor would for a wide board. Of course, if your miter gauge bar fits loosely in the slot, or there's some spring or flex, no measurement no matter how accurate will give you the results you want. But you need to fix that problem anyway, not just for this one cut. There it is. I hope this helps a bit. I don't have trig right at my fingertips any more either, even though I've used it a lot in my lifetime, and sometimes I have to bumble around a little to remember what I need to do to solve a problem, but this part of it - the tangent - the rise and the run - is easy to remember and really pays its way. Hope this helps, Tom Dacon |
#39
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message diainc... "Leon" wrote in message ... "Tom Dacon" wrote in message ... I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6 degrees? Come on, Leon. Stop trying to be cute. He sets his miter guage at 19.4 degrees. Jeez. Tom And he ends up with a miter at 19.4 degrees. He needs 70.6 degrees. The cut needs to be more towards a rip rather than closer to a cross cut. DOH! |
#40
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Making a 70.6 cut on miter saw
On Feb 19, 8:09*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message diainc... "Leon" wrote in message ... "Tom Dacon" wrote in message ... I'll ask this again,,, can yo actually set your miter gauge to 70.6 degrees? Come on, Leon. Stop trying to be cute. He sets his miter guage at 19.4 degrees. Jeez. Tom And he ends up with a miter at 19.4 degrees. *He needs 70.6 degrees. *The cut needs to be more towards a rip rather than closer to a cross cut. *DOH! Well, then you didn't look at Swing's SU pic. It *is* closer to a rip than a cross cut. |
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