This is probably a really basic question.
But is there any general rule of what the final grade of sandpaper
should be for a project that you plan to prime and paint?

I have always sanded up to 220 but wonder whether that might actually be
"too fine" for paint to stick optimally.

On Feb 14, 2:06*am, blueman wrote:
This is probably a really basic question.
But is there any general rule of what the final grade of sandpaper
should be for a project that you plan to prime and paint?

I have always sanded up to 220 but wonder whether that might actually be
"too fine" for paint to stick optimally.

For wood:

IMO, if it is an "art piece" like a jewelry box that won't get much
wear or cleaning, then go to perfectly sanded 220.

If it is something like a shop built kitchen cabinet where you will
put the normal one coat of primer, then two coats of finish, a
meticulous sanding with 180 grit will work well. Use 220 to sand
spackled and filled areas as they are prone to scratches.

Outside (as in house), the rougher the better as the paint will have
to face endless expansion and contraction. It needs all the help it
can get.

For metal:

You can't get the surfaces smooth enough for something like a metal
door. I still don't go past 220, but since metal paints go on much
thinner, you have to be even more careful when sanding as the
imperfections of the surface will come right through metal paints. No
amount of paint will hide the imperfections unless you are going to
put enough on to compound out as much as possible. Still, proper
sanding is the key.

For fiberglass:

See notes on metal.



Good sanding technique is (to me) even more important than than the
grits, paper, and machines.

But I think you brought up a good topic. Most people really over
sand.

Personally, I think it is because they are putting of finishing as
long as possible. =^)

Robert

On 2/14/10 2:24 AM, wrote:
You can't get the surfaces smooth enough for something like a metal
door. I still don't go past 220, but since metal paints go on much
thinner, you have to be even more careful when sanding as the
imperfections of the surface will come right through metal paints. No
amount of paint will hide the imperfections unless you are going to
put enough on to compound out as much as possible. Still, proper
sanding is the key.


Robert

Have you ever lightly sanded the primer or first coat of paint, before
applying the final coat? I had a friend who painted houses for a living
and the only things he would sand were those metal exterior doors...
very lightly. The finished door was so smooth, it looked like it had
been powder coated.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 14, 3:06*am, blueman wrote:
This is probably a really basic question.
But is there any general rule of what the final grade of sandpaper
should be for a project that you plan to prime and paint?

I have always sanded up to 220 but wonder whether that might actually be
"too fine" for paint to stick optimally.

I always sand to 150 and then prime it. Then I lightly sand the
primer with 320 before I put the paint on it.

JP

On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 03:06:05 -0500, blueman wrote:

This is probably a really basic question.
But is there any general rule of what the final grade of sandpaper
should be for a project that you plan to prime and paint?

I have always sanded up to 220 but wonder whether that might actually be
"too fine" for paint to stick optimally.


Maybe it's true, I read an article about too much sanding. 220 grit
sounds right. I lightly sand the primer, dust off, then ready for a
smooth finish. Sand again between coats using 320 grit.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 2/14/10 2:24 AM, wrote:
You can't get the surfaces smooth enough for something like a metal
door. I still don't go past 220, but since metal paints go on much
thinner, you have to be even more careful when sanding as the
imperfections of the surface will come right through metal paints. No
amount of paint will hide the imperfections unless you are going to
put enough on to compound out as much as possible. Still, proper
sanding is the key.


Robert

Have you ever lightly sanded the primer or first coat of paint, before
applying the final coat? I had a friend who painted houses for a living
and the only things he would sand were those metal exterior doors... very
lightly. The finished door was so smooth, it looked like it had been
powder coated.


For metal - start with a well sanded, smooth piece of metal. Prime it, and
sand before finish coat. I sand with 500 on all metal pieces. Then, lay
down the finish. If you do the proper prep before priming, and knock it
down with 500 before applying the finish, you won't need to sand between
finish coats - unless you've got too much dust in the air. If that's the
case, fix that problem, and don't try to address it with sandpaper as a
routine procedure.

For wood - who in the hell paints wood, anyway?

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

*snip*


For wood - who in the hell paints wood, anyway?


Those of us who are too cheap to buy the good stuff for utility grade
projects.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On Feb 14, 10:39*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote :

*snip*



For wood - who in the hell paints wood, anyway?

Those of us who are too cheap to buy the good stuff for utility grade
projects.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

I have another answer for that. Poplar is probably one of the most
stable, affordable and ugly wood perfect for contruction grade cabinet
carcasses etc. It must be painted.
120 grit
primer
220 grit (by hand)
topcoat #1
320 grit to knock the tips off
topcoa # 2

"Robatoy" wrote in message
news:602d2177-69b4-45b6-8161-
I have another answer for that. Poplar is probably one of the
most
stable, affordable and ugly wood perfect for contruction grade
cabinet
carcasses etc. It must be painted.
120 grit
primer
220 grit (by hand)
topcoat #1
320 grit to knock the tips off
topcoa # 2


I do just 40 grit for all but walnut, which is worth 80 grit. A
couple coats of latex paint, applied with a foam brush and it's
done and ready for the living room. grin

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

On 2/14/10 10:10 PM, Robatoy wrote:
I have another answer for that. Poplar is probably one of the most
stable, affordable and ugly wood perfect for contruction grade cabinet
carcasses etc. It must be painted.

I agree. I love working with Poplar, but now those ugly green
stripes... ick.
I call it snotwood.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 22:48:05 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/14/10 10:10 PM, Robatoy wrote:
I have another answer for that. Poplar is probably one of the most
stable, affordable and ugly wood perfect for contruction grade cabinet
carcasses etc. It must be painted.

I agree. I love working with Poplar, but now those ugly green
stripes... ick.
I call it snotwood.


My lathe has poplar planks that hold the cast iron ends together, plus
a poplar shelf. The three large planks were under $100, very
inexpensive. It might look ugly to some, but I wouldn't know it
unless I dusted it off. Poplar has a good anti-vibration property,
and holds an edge well. Great for drawer sides and secondary wood
too.

On Feb 15, 9:44*am, Phisherman wrote:
On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 22:48:05 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/14/10 10:10 PM, Robatoy wrote:
I have another answer for that. Poplar is probably one of the most
stable, affordable and ugly wood perfect for contruction grade cabinet
carcasses etc. It must be painted.

I agree. *I love working with Poplar, but now those ugly green
stripes... ick.
I call it snotwood.

My lathe has poplar planks that hold the cast iron ends together, plus
a poplar shelf. *The three large planks were under $100, very
inexpensive. *It might look ugly to some, but I wouldn't know it
unless I dusted it off. *Poplar has a good anti-vibration property,
and holds an edge well. *Great for drawer sides and secondary wood
too.

When commissioned to build something 'cherry'... what you see is
cherry what you don't see is poplar. What I like about it is that it
is cheap, very stable in the long run, and as you mentioned, it holds
an edge very well. It grows fast enough so it is almost a renewable
source as well. The big deal about poplar is that very wide boards are
readily available and seldom create any cupping issues, all the way up
to 14'- 16" wide. The wide boards do tend to check during kiln drying,
but that's no biggie. Stuff holds a screw rather well too. Pretty? No.
Useful? You betcha!
When used as a paintable 5-piece kitchen cabinet door, there is no
equal in a quality, stable door.

On 2/15/2010 12:00 PM, Robatoy wrote:

When commissioned to build something 'cherry'... what you see is
cherry what you don't see is poplar. What I like about it is that it
is cheap, very stable in the long run, and as you mentioned, it holds
an edge very well. It grows fast enough so it is almost a renewable
source as well. The big deal about poplar is that very wide boards are
readily available and seldom create any cupping issues, all the way up
to 14'- 16" wide. The wide boards do tend to check during kiln drying,
but that's no biggie. Stuff holds a screw rather well too. Pretty? No.
Useful? You betcha!
When used as a paintable 5-piece kitchen cabinet door, there is no
equal in a quality, stable door.

Here's a poplar "prototype" chair I made a few years back, stained with
gel stain, and sprayed with amber shellac, it is has gorgeous grain in
real life:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/CrftsManCh18.JPG

One of the most beautiful "walnut" sideboards I ever saw was all poplar.
Some of the most beautiful "cherry" cabinets I've seen were birch.

There's magic in some of those cans, in the right hands ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Feb 15, 8:47*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 2/15/2010 12:00 PM, Robatoy wrote:

When commissioned to build something 'cherry'... what you see is
cherry what you don't see is poplar. What I like about it is that it
is cheap, very stable in the long run, and as you mentioned, it holds
an edge very well. It grows fast enough so it is almost a renewable
source as well. The big deal about poplar is that very wide boards are
readily available and seldom create any cupping issues, all the way up
to 14'- 16" wide. The wide boards do tend to check during kiln drying,
but that's no biggie. Stuff holds a screw rather well too. Pretty? No.
Useful? You betcha!
When used as a paintable 5-piece kitchen cabinet door, there is no
equal in a quality, stable door.

Here's a poplar "prototype" chair I made a few years back, stained with
gel stain, and sprayed with amber shellac, it is has gorgeous grain in
real life:

Yabbut we don't see much Liriodendron tulipifera around here.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


Here's a poplar "prototype" chair I made a few years back, stained with
gel stain, and sprayed with amber shellac, it is has gorgeous grain in
real life:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/CrftsManCh18.JPG


I like it Karl - and I would not have thought it to be poplar.

--

-Mike-

On Feb 15, 11:29*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/CrftsManCh18.JPG

I like it Karl - and I would not have thought it to be poplar.

I agree. Nicely done, Karl. It is really rewarding when you can make
one wood look like another, or even better still when you can make it
look like you want.

Good stuff!

I'll tell ya, between you and Leon, you two got it going on there in
Houston!

Robert